這裡有一份麻辣燙美食地圖，請客官查收

最近，天水麻辣燙火了，許多人為了嘗上一口正宗的天水味道，搭上了開往西北的列車，不惜在店門口排上十個小時的隊。

素來被視為路邊攤美食的麻辣燙，搖身一變成為一碗難求的頂流食材。在天水麻辣燙爆火之前，沒人能想到，諸如

“前調是辣椒的香味，中調是菜的味道，尾調有點麻”的美食鑒賞語言，有一天會被用在它身上。

（圖源/微網誌@天水事兒）

事實上，麻辣燙在美食界的地位一直被低估了。

作為一種發源于勞動人民生活、統一全國人民審美的樸素美食，麻辣燙擁有着讓所有人都鬼使神差地說出“我們家那的麻辣燙才最正宗”的魔力。這些年來，經過各地的本土化改良，如今的麻辣燙江湖早已是“門派”衆多，做法上，水煮、涮、蘸各有千秋，鹹甜口味各不相同，就連紅油的配料、湯汁的多少，也都大有講究。

收下這份

麻辣燙食用指南，可以讓你走遍全國都不怕。

雖然天水麻辣燙看起來有一種辣椒不要錢的架勢，但事實上，盡管紅油辣子已經淹沒了食物，但

其口感是香大于辣的，完全依靠辣椒的香味拉出麻辣燙的口感層次。

好消息是，據天水本地人說，天水麻辣燙的靈魂是

甘谷辣椒面，隻要擁有它，在家也能自制。壞消息是，目前正宗的甘谷辣椒面已經成為了緊俏貨，出現了一人限購一斤的盛況。

甘肅不隻有天水麻辣燙，在距離天水八百公裡外的張掖，當地的麻辣燙也小有名氣。不過在張掖，不同店鋪的麻辣燙口味有很大的差異，甜辣口、香辣口、鹹辣口樣樣都有。

張掖麻辣燙是由鐵鍋熬煮而成的，味道濃郁，外觀近似麻辣拌，而醬料是刷上去的。

（圖源/unsplash）

緊挨着甘肅的青海，麻辣燙的做法也較為獨特——

辣椒要炒得焦香，剛入口時口感有些油，但勝在越吃越香，有一種在辣子中撈食物的視覺沖擊。在青海，同樣可以吃到類似于天水麻辣燙中的寬粉。

甯夏麻辣燙也在不少人的西北記憶中留下了重要的一筆。除了傳統麻辣燙外，甯夏還有一種

蘸汁麻辣燙：菜用清水或骨湯煮熟後，直接撈出端上桌，蘸着汁水吃。

要論起油潑辣子，陝西人絕對不會認輸。但陝西麻辣燙的靈魂

除了油潑辣子外，還有爆炸的碳水。除了陝西人，應該沒有人會在麻辣燙中加入如此多種類的面條以及油條、麻花和餅了。

在天水麻辣燙爆火之前，東北黏糊麻辣燙一直在江湖中立于不敗之地，統領麻辣燙江湖的楊國福和張亮就起源于東北。相較于川渝地區重麻重辣的口感，東北麻辣燙具有更強的适口性。除了在口腔裡爆炸的麻醬外，東北麻辣燙也有着

“狂放白糖更美味”的傳說。

事實上，

東北麻辣燙不隻“黏糊”這一個派别，三省之間的口味也各有不同。據遼甯網友說，骨湯、奶湯、黏糊麻辣燙都是近些年的産物，最老式的沈陽麻辣燙是用雞湯和中草藥熬制而成，在出鍋後撒上雞油、芝麻、孜然、辣椒。這一吃法也頗具時代痕迹，據說是因為20世紀90年代許多家庭收入銳減，隻能用熬煮雞架的湯來涮菜，由此而演變成了麻辣燙。

（圖源/微網誌@楊國福官方）

老北京的美食，不止烤鴨、涮肉、爆肚、豆汁，麻辣燙也很有風格。老北京麻辣燙是圍爐式的，也叫

地攤麻辣燙。一張大桌子上，不同口味的涮串鍋依次排開，大家都圍着一張桌子熱熱鬧鬧地吃，想要吃到所有菜品，就得站起來轉着圈拿。

接上一條，剛來北京的人常會對地攤麻辣燙的名字心生疑慮，涮串的外形、沒有湯汁隻有蘸料的吃法，很容易讓人将其與串串香混為一談。

山西老式麻辣燙，

如果不加辣的話，看起來更像一碗湯。湯汁是肉眼可見的清澈，主食也以晶瑩剔透的粉為主。許多人到了山西，都感慨自己沒吃過看起來這麼“素”的麻辣燙。當然，與麻辣燙相比，山西的麻辣拌、蘸串、碗坨更負盛名。

蕪湖麻辣燙最近也小火了一把，雖然其外觀和各地的麻辣燙大緻相同，但入口後卻令人頗為驚豔，甜辣醬的加入，讓其也獲得了

“甜辣燙”的綽号。隻不過現在想要去蕪湖吃上一碗麻辣燙，也免不了要排隊。

四川省樂山市五通橋區牛華鎮是麻辣燙的起源地，據說，最初是船工和纖夫創造了麻辣燙。他們在勞作之餘，拿出瓦罐，舀起江水，放入野菜和花椒等調料涮而食之，麻辣燙由此而生。不過，四川麻辣燙以

重麻重辣為特色，對于飲食相對清淡的外地人而言，并不是很友好。

補充上一條，在很多人眼中，四川麻辣燙和冒菜沒有差別。

（圖源/unsplash）

如果你想要激怒一個南昌人，那麼把南昌水煮稱為麻辣燙就可以了。雖然南昌水煮的烹饪過程和老北京地攤麻辣燙很相似，成品的外觀也與普通麻辣燙沒什麼差别，

但南昌人還是堅持認為水煮是一種高于麻辣燙的食物，主要展現在水煮的菜品會長時間放在鍋裡煮着，十分入味，吃的時候隻需要加蘿蔔、幹蔥花、辣椒即可，不像麻辣燙一樣主要依賴于調料調味。

接上一條，小有名氣的

益陽麻辣燙，在制作流程上和南昌水煮十分相似。

貴陽麻辣燙的口味頗多，既有鮮湯的

清水燙，又有特色酸湯和麻辣結合的

酸辣燙，而用

折耳根和糊辣椒秘制的蘸水，則有着濃厚的西南風味。

要論麻辣燙的清淡，沒有哪裡能比得過廣州。廣州人曬麻辣燙的圖檔裡，那乳白的湯汁和嫩綠的蔬菜，讓網友忍不住銳評：

快吃吧，一會兒你那既不麻又不辣的麻辣燙連燙都不燙了。

作者高滔滔

校對遇見

編輯宋爽

題圖微網誌@天水事兒

排版 Cu

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