Source: Qujing Daily - Qujing News Network
"咂鲁麻", also known as "咂酒", "hook vine wine", "drinking sake", "turning wine", "sheep wine", etc., is to use hollow bamboo poles or grass pipes to suck drinking, which is a popular in Yunnan, Guizhou, Hunan and other regions of the very ancient folk drinking methods and drinking customs.
Wine is loved by people in most countries in the world, and China's ethnic minorities are even more fond of wine. Everyone sat in a circle, and the wine jar was inserted with bamboo pipes or hollow grass pipes, which were passed in turn, and whoever had it in their hands took a sip; Sometimes a liquor order is issued, and the winner takes a sip as a reward; Sometimes there are songs and dances accompanied by drinking or dancing together after drinking, the atmosphere is strong, and the music is harmonious, which is conducive to communicating estrangement and enhancing feelings.
The liquor used for drinking is actually a low-grade beverage liquor, which is a kind of sweet wine made of glutinous rice, bud grain (corn) or wheat, commonly known as liquor or sweet liquor. When making, the cornmeal, glutinous rice, wheat noodles are steamed and cooled, and the liquor medicine (sake koji) is mixed evenly, put in a bowl, and heated and fermented in the grass bran for three to five days (subject to the sweet taste of wine). In Xuanweijia Village, when the spring and summer are tense for farm work, they do not eat breakfast in the morning, but eat breakfast at about 10 o'clock and work in the field, and at three or four o'clock in the afternoon, they will return home, eat more noon (similar to lunch in the city), or when guests come between meals, they will use sweet liquor to cook bait, noodles, noodles, etc. to make lunch or entertain guests. Because it is convenient to brew and is a necessity of life, Xuanwei farmers can brew a lot. Hide in the altar for up to several months, drink when adding cold boiled water or warm boiled water to brew, some even directly under the fire to heat, with a long bamboo pipe to take turns to suck, less wine to add water, while sucking and adding. Because sweet liquor is very sweet and delicious, everyone loves to drink, not like high wine, many people are difficult to swallow, but although the degree is low, drinking more will be intoxicating.
It is difficult to verify when the custom of "slaming" began. Baiju Yi Tang Xian Zongyuan and the year went to Chungju to serve as an assassin, and when passing through the Three Gorges, he wrote down the "Bashi Spring Feast" and wrote about this custom: "Wuxia Central County, Bacheng wind on all sides. Lavender is seated, and vine branches are filled with wine bottles. Wild song kankan, ba female dance squat squat". Ming Zhaoshu recorded in the "DianLuo": "The method of drinking alcohol, mixed buckwheat and barnyard in a giant urn, stained slightly hot, guests, then burned under it, with small bamboo or basket inserted into the urn, the main guest sits around, sucks and drinks, known as 'smirking'." "Fishing vines, vines, can also make wine, the natives stain rice wheat in the ripe and vines in it, pour boiling soup inside, burn a slight fire, the main guest to hold the vine to suck." Jiajing's Guizhou Tongzhi Vol. 3 "Customs": Records the Luo ghost customs of Ninggu Division, Anshun Prefecture: "Sibu Doro ghost, that is, Wu Man ye. Whoever drinks, without a cup, places the urn on the ground, sits in a circle, pours water into the urn, and drinks with vines, which is called drinking wine to guests. This fishing vine, known as the golden vine, has a medicinal effect similar to that of betel nut, "curing cholera and tianxing miasma, and relieving all poisons."
The ancients wrote many poems about this strange custom. Cheng Benli (Ziyuan Dao), who was demoted to a post in Yunnan in Tongxiang County, Jiaxing City, Zhejiang Province, wrote a number of relevant poems, especially his integration of ethnic minority languages into the poems, which is more interesting, "Jinbei Ha (A) Raji, Silver Barrel Su lu ma." Jiang Lou is drunk day by day, but forgets at the end of the world." Yang Shen's "Drinking Wine Poems": "Brew into the smoke and xia, and the merit is high with the tillers." Oak chestnuts are harvested in autumn baskets, and peaches are sent in spring. Travel set three more prosperous, guests pay a hundred prayers. Bitterly did not drink me much, a suck has been pottery. The "Luoping Prefecture Chronicle" contains the "Luoping Instant See" written by Ming Yushi Luocheng (Shiping Ren): "The green mountains outside the mountains are dangerous, and the Yi people live in a dangerous village. Bamboo poles and wine people gather, and the fire kang cooking japonica is old. I don't know how to read the calendar days, but I was born to solve the pastoral. The conquest is slow and thin, and the year is abundant, and yue Mu'en can be recognized." During the Qing Jiaqing period, the Changyang Tujia poet Peng Gan's bamboo branch poem: "Wild wine is brewed into a fragrant aroma, and the bamboo pole sucks a pot to win." Across the bridge pork lotus bowl, the big woman opened the altar to persuade guests to taste." And the most famous is the Qing Dynasty Shi Nan Longtan to appease The Si Tian clan a poem praising the wine: "Ten thousand pearls are one ou, and the prince also bows his head here." The five dragons held the Qingtian Pole and sucked up the water of the Yangtze River to flow backwards." This poem is also believed to be a poem written by Shi Dakai, the wing king of the Taiping Heavenly Kingdom, who led his troops to Miao Township, drank and danced with the Miao compatriots, and was given a slightly different poem after being happy: "Ten thousand pearls are harvested in an urn, and the king also bows his head here." The five dragons hugged Optimus Prime and sucked the water of the Yangtze River backwards. "The poem was written by one man, I don't know who it is; The number of versions shows how widely this poem is circulated.
This custom of drinking was spread in the ethnic minority areas of the southwest, and some Fang Zhi have recorded it. The "Dian Qian Zhiluo" quotes Lu Lu cuan from the "Shiping Zhi": "It is also customary to make wine with sorghum and barley, and where guests are feasted, they first set up a wine altar on it, store it with cold water, and insert it inside; Guests arrive, the host smacks first to show the intention of tasting first, and the guests are second. When the water is filled, waiting for the end and focusing on the altar, depending on the surplus of the water to test the amount of drinking, if it is not enough, please do it again, and put the fire under the altar in the winter moon, take its heat. Yiren all kinds, all have songs, jumping songs and dances. "Daoguang Yunnan Tongzhi Draft": "Haizhu, Zhenxiong ZhouZhi": The air (hollow) is a wine rod". Daoguang's 30th year "Dading Fu Zhi • Jing Luo Zhi • Food Goods" contains "咂酒": Shu yu barrel wine, also known as "Smack Wine", which the Miao people in Yunnan call "Sheep Wine". Volume 41 of the "Chronicle of Xingyi Province" records the drinking customs of ethnic minorities in Xingyi and Luoping: Zhongmiao "is sexually alcoholic, and every time he gathers, groups of three or five will return drunk, and he will also accumulate habits." "Flower seedlings" smack wine and drink, straws do not take the cup also. "The Chronicle of the Dian Dynasty": "The Miao people suck and drink wine with reed pipes, which is called sheep wine." It is mainly endemic in some ethnic minority areas in Yunnan, Sichuan and Guizhou. It is made of japonica rice or wheat, millet, beams, millet, etc., and the guests come, "When the wine is ripe, put it in the altar with boiling soup, and drink it with fine bamboo into the altar." Take a cup, don't take a cup of hot soup to add it, the mouth of the altar is water, the wine does not float, until the taste is light. ”
In the countryside, occasionally see this kind of drinking, when the author was young in Xuanwei's hometown, a person in the village brought wine up the mountain, everyone sat in a group, and the person who wanted to drink from the side folded a straw pipe into the pot to drink, one person and one, not shared, drinking in turn, and convenient for hygiene. The Sherpas in the Chentang region of Tibet still commonly drink Chicken Claw Valley wine in this way. Chentang is under the jurisdiction of Dingjie County, Shigatse Region, located in a primeval forested area on the east side of Mount Everest, across the river from Nepal. A distinct group of people lives within its borders, the Sherpas. They live in the mountains and are almost isolated from the world, so they can preserve this unique folklore. They call the chicken claw valley wine "manga", the chicken claw grain ear is like a claw, is an important food crop of the Sherpa people, they will brew the chicken claw valley wine in the barrel, insert a bamboo pipe to suck a circle, and then warm the boiling water, and another pot of wine, until there is no wine taste, and then change the chicken claw valley "original pulp" wine. You can "suck" yourself around the barrel alone, or you can sit in groups, chat, take turns to "suck" wine, the atmosphere is strong and happy.
(The photo in this article is a network photo)
(Author: Happy Wen)