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Text/Figure Grandpa Mango Jun
Made by Grandma Mango Jun
Pimp eel
Chu Feng Chu Taste Chu People, hundreds of Chu Cuisine texts are born from the application of chu cuisine.
Many friends have asked about the condiment geometry when making dishes? In fact, that's the duty of the recipe. Recipes are a common tool used by chefs without thought. In the early years, the peasant brothers of Bashu went south and north with "Popular Sichuan Cuisine", immersed themselves in reading recipes at night, and since then they have the tools for employment, and then support the world of supporting their families.
"Popular Sichuan Cuisine" has been reprinted many times, becoming the most printed recipe in China, and the millions of ordinary people have become the kitchen god in front of the stove, and the recipe is really outstanding.
Food prose and recipes are also records dishes, but in the harmony of the five flavors of knife work, the prose integrates the beautiful language and text, and the oil, salt, sauce and vinegar are more extensive than the recipes, rarely quantified, and often filled with the words "appropriate amount" and "a little".
Chinese dishes are mostly passed on in the heart, the fire is roaring, the pots and pans collide, the chef wields a long-handled iron spoon, where is the leisure to measure and weigh one move? Skill and precision come from long-term application and understanding.
I love to travel through rivers and lakes, all over the famous mountains and rivers. Food is an indispensable daily necessity in travel. For decades, although the taste of the north and the south has been known, the customs and delicacies of the great country are known.
When he was young, he used to go from the north of Rong, but instead of changing the food customs of the southern barbarians, he missed the taste of his hometown even more. Born to eat Chu taste, only Chu Chu is deeply engraved with sweet and sour bitterness. The memory of the taste buds is more than that of the brain, and once formed, it is not easy to change for life.
Jingzhou, the birthplace of the custom of drinking and eating in the Chu kingdom, especially in Shashi and jiangling ancient cities. Although Chu Cuisine has been inherited, improved, extended and expanded in the long river of history, she still has not departed from the taste of the locality. Throughout history, there is no doubt that the jingchu taste rooted in the Jianghan Plain is the source of chu taste. Chu wei is not changed by today's administrative divisions or even the city level.
After the sting, the wild yellow eels that are hiding in their nests emerge from the mud hole, and hunger makes them lose their due vigilance. By the ditch, in the rice paddies, the farmers appeared from time to time in the morning light with their baskets on their backs, and in the traps of last night's formation, the brown and yellow eels were curled up, and after a night of struggle, it still did not escape the cage of detention. Yellow eels used to sipped at night, the creeping earthworms in the cage, how did the yellow eel know that it was the bait laid by the farmers, greed made it fall into the trap, and eventually paid the price of life.
The yellow eel is not strict about water bodies, and plankton is also its food. The saprophytic soil and barren grass are the perfect places for it to grow and reproduce. It is really puzzling that the yellow eels that inhabit and grow in barren ditches are so rich in such a delicious taste.
The yellow eel is in Jingzhou, and people call it eel. Despite its snake-like appearance, it is essentially only a scaleless freshwater fish that is not offensive to humans. Its cowardice allows people to kill at will from the belly or from the back of the mouth according to the form of the dish.
Eels are served in a variety of dishes. Cut the strips obliquely, roll in the boiling oil pot for a few seconds, drain the grease, cook the seasoning is the stir-fried eel shreds; the yellow eel with a bone flat knife hammer flattens and then cut the inches, the oil pot with peppercorn ginger minced sautéed until it is broken, the watercress sauce is boiled for a few minutes, until the eel slices are slightly twisted at both ends of the juice out of the pot, is to fry the eel bridge, that is, home-style eel; eel is slaughtered and cut into barrels, and the lettuce or cucumber meat is integrated. The taste is reversed in the quiet stew, the faint cucumber and lettuce are much more delicious than the eel, and what people are chasing is the flavor of meat and vegetarian inversion; eel and Nanfeng salt dish cooking hot pot, the remarkable farmhouse flavor, once the gourmets collide with it, they must be loved for life.
The variety of yellow eel dishes, every wisp is flowing with fresh fragrance, it can be said that the river fresh of the Jingchu land- yellow eel, soaked with infinite delicious words.
"Leather eel", an outlier of the yellow eel.
It introduces the taste buds with a sweet and sour flavor pattern, contrary to the salty and fresh home-style flavor of Jingchu. The tender texture of the outside and the tenderness of the inside show the complexity of its frying several times. In terms of cooking techniques, the flavor type of pimp eel belongs to the "lychee flavor", and the "lychee flavor" is rare in the Chu flavor, which is far from the daily meals of the people of Jingsha.
Despite this, the fame of "pimp eel" is still in the ascendant. The grotesque name of the dish hangs high in the middle hall of the restaurant, the amber crystal figure is displayed on the banquet table, the double impact of sight and smell, the name of the pimp eel, the people of Jingsha are all familiar with it.
Over the past few years, the words I have written about lakes, ravines, and freshwater fish have been frequently flashed on online platforms, or published on inky pages, and eels have become indispensable materials because of their delicious beauty. However, among the eel dishes that have been repeatedly written, only the "pimp eel" has not been turned. Funny to say, Guy refused because he hated the dirty work of the word "pimp" and was incompatible with the name of the food. In many fish dishes, "pimp eel" has never been the first.
Du Yu's food culture is as tedious as the cottage landscape. Leather eels still can't escape the sour rot story. To create an illusory historical origin, of course, it is necessary to be false and true, and the year number is converted into the common era year, so as to look rigorous and professional. Thus, history goes back and comes rushing in; the vicissitudes of the years follow... What is the crime of making up stories? It is neither taxable nor illegal, the story itself is unwarranted, and why is there a dispute over infringement? Maybe it will be appreciated. Unrealistic food "culture" has come out one after another, and people have spread false rumors and false rumors, but they do not know how to laugh and be generous, which makes people scornful.
"Pimp" is indecent, just an improper expression of dialects, and there is no ambiguity. "tiao" in the Jingsha dialect means to hang, hang, and relax. A crispy fried eel or sweet and sour eel, which is actually used as a pimp, really reduces the character of the dish. What is the way, the cook of the late Qing Dynasty, can't read a few big characters. It is not easy to understand this way, and today's Chinese characters have evolved from hieroglyphs.
In China's famous dishes, there are very few dishes with yellow eels, and it seems that eels are not popular. Despite this, the "pimp eel" with word defects is still ranked among the famous dishes, which is the honor of the pimp eel.
Chinese famous dish strip eel, the production of dishes is extremely complicated, divided, kneaded, hanging pulp, first fried, re-fried, cooking juice, hook and mustard interlocking orderly, a good food is not boring. The subtleties show the unique ingenuity of Chu Kitchen.
We can imagine that when the pimp eel was awarded the title of China's famous dish, it went through ups and downs. Forty years ago, when pimp eels were evaluated before officials and experts, their hearts must have been intertwined with contradictions. The irrepressible sweet and sour aroma of pimp eels passed in front of the judges, and the flowing delicacy covered the indecent characters of the text. In the face of delicious food, any decent can be defeated, and this huge conquest force no one can resist.
Writing this article, I wondered, is the word "tiao" in the Jingchu dialect just word of mouth? Opening the "Old Training Collection", the word "tiao" that bothered me was hidden in it. It turns out that you also have a clan office?
This is the tiao word, but the ordinary font library does not have it, and can only be shown in pictures
The "tiao" in the Jingchu dialect is the character shown in the figure above. The Shuowen interprets it as "grass and trees are solid and tiaotiaoran." It seems that the "hanging, hanging, relaxing" that I interpreted is the same as it, which is really gratifying.
Thinking back to the Qing Dynasty, when the self-made and unskilled cook improved the salty and fresh flavor of the yellow eel, the skin of the eel with the dissected spine and boneless was hanging down, and the ancestors, like us, touched the tiaotiao god of the boneless eel, and the tiaotiao eel" suddenly appeared in the mind of the tiaotiao eel, of course, it was the tiaotiao eel flakes before frying, and as soon as the starch was rolled into the oil pot, tiaotiao disappeared.
Semi-finished leather eel
From this point of view, the pimp eel is not indecent, but it can be correctly expressed in the text, which will cause future generations to misinterpret it.
The essayist and philosopher Francis of the Revival period. Bacon once said: "Reading history makes people wise, reading poetry makes people smart, mathematics makes people thorough, philosophy makes people profound, ethics make people noble, logic and rhetoric make people argumentative."
I would like to ask, is it a sudden enlightenment to consult the reference book?