From ingredients to formulas, from beauty to personal care, what are the recent new research results of international raw material manufacturers?
Source | Poly beauty
Author | Mu Mu raw material innovation is an important source to promote product innovation in the cosmetics industry. Although the development law of the scientific field to which raw materials belong determines that a new raw material often has a long R&D cycle and low update and iteration frequency, at the same time, the R&D and innovation of raw materials also has a considerable space to attract scientific researchers to continue to explore and move forward.
Foreign raw material companies, especially multinational companies, have always had a strong say in the raw material market trend, which comes from their years of research and development experience and achievements. At the same time, based on the changes in market demand, they have also upgraded raw materials through structural modification and technical improvement, and developed new raw materials with special skin care effects in combination with different skin care concepts under the consensus of sustainable development.
In China, since the implementation of the new regulations, the State Food and Drug Administration has successively passed the filing of a number of new domestic raw materials. The entire cosmetics industry is also paying more and more attention to the research and development of new raw materials, ingredients and formulas, forming a new trend of "focusing on scientific research and technology".
In this context, the sub-column "New Raw Materials" of the ingredient special feature continues to report on the R&D trends of new raw materials at home and abroad, and the introduction of new products. Welcome everyone to pay attention to the collection!
This issue of new raw material products focuses on the new R&D trends of international companies, and will briefly analyze recent research results from the perspectives of efficacy and technology.
01
Plant exosomes and exosomal peptides for skin and hair care
In the field of cosmetics, plant exosomes developed with plants as research objects are becoming the entry point for ingredient companies to enter the field of exosome research because they are safer and more compliant.
Recently, Vytrus Biotech, a biotechnology company from Spain, announced that it has adopted a new biotechnology approach to effectively produce plant exosomes derived from turmeric and centella asiatica plant stem cell cultures, and launched three raw ingredients for skin and hair care, namely Centella Reversa™, Capilia Longa™, and Turmeria Zen™.
The turmeric exosomes developed by the company are said to have good applications in improving skin hydration and regeneration, as well as increasing hair density and delaying hair loss. Centella asiatica exosomes, on the other hand, have the potential to encapsulate and protect related compounds such as growth factors, proteins, and peptides.
It is worth mentioning that Vytrus has also discovered a new cosmetic ingredient in plant exosomes with significant anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, and anti-wrinkle properties - Exosomic Peptides™.
In terms of composition, Centella Reversa™ uses Centella Asiatica callus extract as the main ingredient, which is rich in a variety of exosomal peptides, which can improve skin wrinkles and roughness, reduce erythema and pores, and is used for skin regeneration and reverse aging. Capilia Longa™, on the other hand, is mainly derived from turmeric callus extract, which resets the epigenetics of the hair bulb and restarts the dermal papilla mesenchymal cells to increase the density of hair, eyebrows, and eyelashes. Turmeria Zen™, derived from turmeric callus lysate, combats the harmful effects of stress on the skin by improving skin hydration and wrinkles in stressed areas.
In addition, as plant exosomes show more and more application prospects in the field of cosmetics, the method of obtaining exosomes from plants has also become a popular research direction. Based on this, Incospharm, a South Korean raw material company, has developed a new plant exosome isolation technology: electrophoretic oscillation-assisted tangential flow filtration (EPOTF).
According to the company, EPOTF mainly achieves the purpose of removing blockages by quickly swinging the filter plate, so as to improve the overall efficiency of filtration. This technology solves one of the major pain points of tangential flow-driven ultrafiltration (TF-UF) – the build-up of deposits on the filter.
"With EPOTF, we can efficiently collect exosomes. At the same time, we can also use this technology to explore the types of exosomes. Jehong Sekyoo, Chairman and Chief Technology Officer of Incospharm, added.
02
Milk thistle fruit extract that balances oxidative inflammation of the skin
In recent years, awareness of skin care and aging has moved in a more positive and resilient direction, a direction known as anti-aging. Aging prevention emphasizes the importance of self-care, focusing on prevention and overall well-being, while also recognizing the link between positive emotional health and skin conditions.
Studies have found that a range of external aggressors, such as UV radiation and pollution, can disrupt the interconnectedness of two key biological pathways, oxidation-inflammatory balance in the skin, with a devastating cumulative effect on skin health and emotional balance.
Swiss flavor and flavor company Givaudan has launched Silybidiol™ (INCI: milk thistle fruit extract), the first iconic cannabidiol (CBD) molecular alternative that meets global standards.
Silybidiol™ is known to bind to CB2 cannabinoid receptors in the skin, activate cellular crosstalk, and then activate skin defense and detoxification pathways, effectively maintain oxidative inflammation balance and promote health, thereby reducing inflammation and improving skin tone. At the same time, it stimulates the production of β-endorphins, which contribute to overall health.
In clinical trials, Silybidiol™ has the following advantages over placebo and cannabidiol in volunteers exposed to light pollution:
- Significantly improves skin evenness (2.7 times better than CBD);
- Enhances skin radiance (1.6 times better than CBD);
- The volunteer's health was improved (equivalent to CBD).
In summary, Silybidiol™ hopes to provide a new holistic approach to anti-aging by leveraging the emerging concept of ox-inflammation, a vicious cycle between oxidative stress and inflammation.
03
New emulsifiers and solubilizers based on formulation upgrades
In addition to functional ingredients, raw ingredients such as emulsifiers and solubilizers also play an irreplaceable role in cosmetic formulations.
It is understood that the application of emulsifiers in cosmetics has a long history, and the emulsification of emulsifiers can integrate the originally immiscible oil and water phases, which not only retains the respective characteristics and functions of oil and water, but also gives full play to the synergistic effect of the two.
Recently, Gobiotics, an innovative Dutch company, launched its latest emulsifier ingredient, StabiCare®COLD, which allows for cold processing, can be formulated at lower levels, is all-natural, and does not contain microplastics.
StabiCare®COLD is said to be able to be applied to a revolutionary new emulsification method, the semi-cooling process, which opens up a whole new way of formulating cosmetics. In this process, the aqueous phase is kept at room temperature, while the oil phase is heated to the melting temperature, and emulsification is carried out using this temperature difference. In the past, the above processes have led to emulsion instability, but the unique chemistry of StabiCare®COLD makes this possible. The reason for this is that StabiCare®COLD emulsifies fast enough that the temperature difference is negligible.
In addition, according to the company, the semi-cooling process has many advantages over cold or hot only, such as saving time because the formula no longer needs to be cooled; Recipes require less energy, which can lead to cost savings; In the production process, only one vessel needs to be heated, which means less equipment is required.
Solubilizers, as the name suggests, can increase the solubility of insoluble substances, and are mainly used in cosmetics to adjust viscosity and improve product texture.
Recently, Symrise, an international fragrance company, has developed a new solubilizer, SymSol® ProSun (INCI: ethylhexyl acetoxystearate, propylene glycol dicaprylate/caprate, diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalate), which is designed to dissolve crystalline UV filters and prevent them from recrystallizing, thereby improving the reliability and durability of sun protection.
According to Symrise, SymSol® ProSun is versatile and can be used for high SPF sunscreens, children's sunscreens, sunscreen products containing mineral UV filters, and skin and sun care products such as creams, lotions, oils, sprays, and sticks.
"SymSol® ProSun provides an innovative solution for modern sunscreen formulations, from which our customers get innovative and effective products that enhance the performance and experience of sunscreen formulations." Claudia Teubner, Global Functional Product Manager at Symrise, said.
04
Kaffe Bueno's new discovery of anionic surfactants
At the just-concluded Global Cosmetic Ingredients exhibition in Paris, the Danish industrial biotechnology company Kaffe Bueno unveiled its latest innovation in personal care ingredients: KLEANSTANT® (INCI: potassium palmitate, potassium linoleate, polyphenols, tocopherols, diterpene esters).
It is reported that KLEANSTANT® is a natural anionic surfactant upgraded from coffee by-products, which has cleansing, emulsifying, foaming and antioxidant properties, which can easily remove waterproof cosmetics without drying out the skin. In addition, KLEANSTANT® is rich in antioxidants, which give the skin a soft and smooth feeling while protecting it.
NOT ONLY THAT, BUT KLEANSTANT® IS ALSO SUITABLE FOR DETERGENTS, SOAPS, SHAMPOOS AND SHOWER GELS IN DOSES RANGING FROM 5% TO 40%.
In addition, KLEANSTANT® is composed of unique fatty acids, free of palm oil, sulfates and petroleum, and is safe and gentle. At the same time, the ingredient is naturally biodegradable, helping to reduce the environmental impact of personal care products.
It is understood that KLEANSTANT® has a light and translucent yellow soapy texture, which promotes recycling in the manufacturing process and helps to convert waste into valuable resources, thereby reducing the carbon footprint, which is in line with the concept of sustainable development today.
05
Kolmar launches artificial intelligence technology to diagnose hair loss
According to reports, South Korea's Kolmar Korea, a supplier of global cosmetics brands such as Estee Lauder, recently announced that the company's artificial intelligence (AI) technology is able to identify 16 types of androgenetic alopecia, a hereditary hair disorder caused by an overreaction to androgens.
It is reported that the technology can diagnose nine types of male hair loss and seven types of female hair loss by identifying the biomarker DNA on the surface of the scalp.
When cosmetic researchers scratch a consumer's scalp to collect biomarkers and place them into an analytical device, a computer program connected to the device analyzes the presence and type of androgenetic alopecia.
Komar revealed that it plans to work with customer companies to develop customized cosmetics for 16 types of androgenetic alopecia.
"There are about 700 genetic mutations for each androgenetic alopecia, and we plan to recommend more than 10,000 custom cosmetics based on the type of genetic mutation." A person from the company said.
In fact, many of the research results mentioned in this article, on the one hand, are still in the basic research stage, and on the other hand, their diverse applications are obvious, not limited to the beauty industry, but also extended to the field of personal care, which is enough to show the wide range of R&D work involved in international companies. Paying attention to these new research trends may bring some product innovation enlightenment to domestic enterprises.
信息来源：cosmetics business、cosmetics design、premium beauty news、cosmetics and toiletries、the korea economic daily、品牌官网
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