Memories of Daxin Street Intersection (II)
▓ Wang Jie / Graphic
Crossing the Yangtze River Road from the Shangcheng Nunnery, it is an old dwelling, namely the chicken goose lane, the incense shop camp, and now the road is widened together with the Shangcheng Nunnery and is called Hongwu North Road.
In Chicken and Goose Alley, there were once two celebrities. The first is Ma Shiying, a powerful minister in the Hongguang period of the Southern Ming Dynasty, who sometimes has the folk song of "sweeping away the money in the south of the Yangtze River and filling up Majiakou". The Qing army crossed the river, and the angry Nanjing people demolished the Ma family into a flat land. The other is Dai Li, the predecessor of the military system, the "China Renaissance Society", which became his "memorial hall" after Dai Li's death.
During the period of the Republic of China, there was Kong Xiangxi Mansion in Xiangpu Camp, and there was also the "Gongyu Society" next to it, which was founded in 1934 by Zhang Daofan, then Minister of Culture of the Kuomintang, and was an important place for social activities of senior generals during the National Government. Celebrities such as Chiang Kai-shek, Song Meiling, Zhang Xueliang, and Li Zongren often come and go here, and famous artists such as Mei Lanfang and Gan Gong will also stop here to perform, becoming an important cultural landmark in those years. In the 50s, it was the Jiangsu Provincial Bureau of Culture, and I used to go there to play when I was a child, and later it was the location of the Jiangsu Provincial Song and Dance Troupe. At the end of the 50s, the newly established Nanjing Opera School was temporarily borrowed here.
▲Students from Nanjing Opera School of Jiangsu Provincial Bureau of Culture attend class
Now it has been transformed into the "SOLO ONE.1913 Private Block", which is known as the "city card", and there is a small national theater, which is the only white-collar theater in Nanjing.
▲Night view of the National Small Theater
The North Gate Bridge, not far from Xiangpu Camp, is a bridge with rich historical and cultural value. The North Gate Bridge is also known as the Xuanwu Bridge, the Caotang Bridge, etc., it was originally a three-hole stone arch bridge, it was named the North Gate Bridge because it was outside the north gate of Jinling City in the Southern Tang Dynasty, it was an important traffic waterway in ancient times, in order to facilitate the passage of ships, there must be a round arch of sufficient height under the bridge. There is only one city gate in the north of Jinling City, and you must go out of the city through this north gate, and the North Gate Bridge is just a water and land transportation hub, so it becomes a prosperous commodity distribution center.
The Beimen Bridge has been repaired many times during the Ming and Qing dynasties, witnessing the development and changes of Nanjing. "The History of Confucianism" mentions the Beimen Bridge many times, such as the twenty-sixth chapter: "...... Because he has a bit of color, he has been sold to Beimen Bridge since he was seventeen years old to make a small family. The thirty-third round: "I saw that Lu Huashi was still sitting there, and said: 'Uncle Zhuang of Beimen Bridge heard that Uncle Cousin was coming, and he was anxious to meet him. The thirty-fourth round: "(Chi Hengshan and Du Shaoqing) The two of them sat on a pergola boat together, arrived at the North Gate Bridge, and went ashore. ”
From the old photos of the Beimenqiao neighborhood in 1919, we feel that the Beimenqiao Street is full of market atmosphere, which is not only full of shops, prosperous industries, but also has a "Beimenqiao Post Office". During the Republic of China, the Beimen Bridge was parallel with the Confucius Temple and Xiaguan, and it was the only three commercial centers in Nanjing, and the main road from the Drum Tower to Xinjiekou had to take the Beimen Bridge.
▲The old image of the North Gate Bridge
60 years ago, at the intersection of the Yangtze River at No. 100 Zhongshan Road, there was one of the most distinctive Yangtze River North and South goods stores in Nanjing. The local specialties sold here are very local characteristics, in addition to the seasonal fresh melons and fruits, there are also dried fruits from all over the country, special roasted goods, seafood treasures, pickled dregs drunk, dried vegetable seasoning, pickles and fermented bean curd, sugar, tobacco, wine and tea, milk powder and all kinds of canned food, etc., there are more than 2,000 varieties of local specialties from all over the country. At that time, the leader of Nanjing said that he wanted to let the sons of the "southern barbarians and northern barbarians" in Nanjing eat the local products of their hometowns, so that they could "barbarian" to Hainan Island and "barbarian" to Changbai Mountain in Nanjing. In those years, citizens had to go to the stores in the north and south of the Yangtze River to buy New Year's goods.
▲The old image of the North and South goods stores of the Yangtze River
Near the junction of Zhongshan Road and Guangzhou Road, there is an alley "Little Pink Bridge", and the No. 1 building here is the former residence of Rabe, the protagonist of "Rabe's Diary". Rabe came to China in 1908 and successively served as the manager of the Beiping and Tianjin branches of Siemens in Germany. In 1930, Rabe was transferred to the Nanjing branch of Siemens, which was his office and residence. In the winter of 1937, Rabe and some Westerners set up a safe zone to provide a place of refuge for refugees. There are 25 refugee shelters in the zone, and as the chairman of the zone, Rabe took advantage of his special status to set up his yard as a "Siemens" refugee shelter for more than 600 nearby residents. Mr. Rabe witnessed the atrocities of the Japanese army and wrote the famous "Rabe Diary" here.
▲Rabe's former residence in the 30s
During the urban renovation in the 90s, Xiaofenqiao was originally intended to be widened into a large road, but the city of Nanjing suspended the expansion of this road because Rabe's former residence was confirmed. Later, Nanjing University established the "Rabe and the International Safety Zone Memorial Hall" on the site of Rabe's former residence, which was open to the public.
Xinjiekou South is Zhongshan South Road, formerly known as Zhongzheng Road, in 1940 Wang puppet government changed to Fuxing Road, after the victory of the Anti-Japanese War, renamed Zhongzheng Road, in 1949 renamed Zhongshan South Road, is the only Mr. Zhongshan coffin has not been crossed the road and named Zhongshan Avenue. Huaihai Road is the first road with history and story to the south of Zhongshan South Road, and it was inhabited by people more than 1,500 years ago.
In the east of Huaihai Road, there is a mysterious place with a closed door - Jinling Scripture Carving Office, which is a national key cultural relics protection unit and a human intangible cultural heritage protection unit. In 1866, Yang Renshan, the father of the revival of Buddhism in modern China, founded the Jinling Sutra Engraving Office, where woodblock printing has been used to engrave Buddhist scriptures and Buddha statues. I have been there twice, and according to reports, the "Diamond Sutra" invited by Lu Xun's mother came from here. Dr. Yang Buwei, the granddaughter of Yang Renshan's descendants, is a new woman across the century, and her husband is a famous linguist, musician, translator, philosopher, mathematician, physicist Zhao Yuanren, at the beginning of the last century, Hu Shi and Zhao Yuanren took the examination for students in the United States at the same time, Zhao Yuanren ranked second, and Hu Shi ranked 55th.
▲Jinling engraving office
To the west of Jinling Engraving Office is No. 31 Shude Fang, which used to be the mansion of Chiang Kai-shek's staff Chen Tiaoyuan, Sun Chuanfang smoked opium here, Zhang Xueliang played mahjong here, and thought that Zhong Ming Ding food was in those years, and the flowers were full of flowers. After returning to Beijing during the Xi'an Incident in 1936, the military and political dignitaries who were detained in Xi'an had a dinner at Chen Tiaoyuan's private residence on Huaihai Road on the afternoon of December 28 to commemorate the occasion.
▲From the right, Jiang Zuobin, Chen Cheng, Chen Tiaoyuan, Chen Jiji, Zhu Shaoliang, Mrs. Chen Jiji, Jiang Dingwen, Mrs. Wan Yaohuang, Wei Lihuang, Wan Yaohuang, Gong Daoming, etc
Chen Tiaoyuan died in Chongqing during the Anti-Japanese War, and his family sold the mansion to the National History Museum before liberation. The Nanjing Second Historical Archives was established by the National History Museum left on the mainland, and later the dormitory of the Second Historical Archives of China. In 1999, the former glory of the Chen Mansion disappeared with the roar of bulldozers.
Next to Chen Tiaoyuan's Mansion is Jintangli, which is contained in the "Capital Chronicles" of the Republic of China. It is rumored that the president of the Bank of Communications surnamed Jin was the first to build a house here, and his original name was Jin Xiangli. The capitalist surnamed Houtang also built a house in Jinxiangli, and formed a family of children with the family of President Jinxing, so it was renamed Jintangli. During the Anti-Japanese War, the Japan army forcibly occupied Jintang-ri and used it as a Japanese army dormitory. After the victory of the Anti-Japanese War, he was the Nanjing Preparatory Office of the Joint Credit Information Office of the Silian General Office and the Staff Consumption Cooperative of the Silian General Office, and No. 10 Jintangli also served as the Preparatory Office of the Young Literary and Art Authors Association. In 2006, due to the construction of Huaihai Road substation, all the buildings in Jintangli were demolished.
▲ Memories in the golden soup
No. 2 on the south side of Huaihai intersection is the location of the former Jiangsu Provincial Repertory Theatre, and the main building has 3 2-storey tube buildings, which are the staff dormitories of the Repertory Troupe. At that time, each family had the original indoor furniture, such as a wooden single bed, a large single-door closet, etc., and each household paid a symbolic monthly rent, which was purchased by each family for its own furniture in the later period of the Cultural Revolution. It is said that this was originally a dormitory building for the Japanese army, and there should be a basis for this statement in connection with the Japanese military dormitory in Kantori. There is also Nanjing Hall in the No. 2 courtyard, which is a theater for the Provincial Repertory Theatre to perform and other provincial and municipal dramas, and was renamed Dongfeng Theater during the Cultural Revolution, where plays or movies are screened. At the end of the last century, in the urban reconstruction, in addition to tearing down several two-story buildings and building multi-storey houses, the street was transformed into the Provincial Cultural Center and the Jiangsu Cultural Building.
The alley south of Huaihai Road is the sheepskin lane, the center of the production and sale of sheepskins in the Ming and Qing dynasties. Merchants buy flocks of sheep with fine skins, drive them to Sheepskin Lane to skin and sort them out and make clothes, which is a concentration of sheepskin shops and sheepskin vendors, and becomes the "sheepskin market", hence the name Sheepskin Lane.
During the Republic of China, Dai Li secretly set up a special prison in Sheepskin Lane, that is, No. 16 Sheepskin Lane.
Guanyin Nunnery, No. 34, Sheepskin Lane, is a building in the late Ming and early Qing dynasties, also known as "Ancient Guanyin Hall". At the beginning of the victory of the Anti-Japanese War, Chen Bijun treasured his family's treasures here. Later, it was reported by the Guanyin Nunnery Jing'an Shitai and all confiscated. At that time, major newspapers rushed to disclose the incident: "After the victory of the Anti-Japanese War, Chen Bijun, the wife of the late Wang Wei Jingwei, secretly tried to hide a large amount of property in a Guanyin Nunnery at No. 34 Sheepskin Lane in Nanjing...... A total of more than 20 boxes, of great value, have been sealed and sent to the central bank vault, and the fur clothing has been handed over to the CITIC Bureau for safekeeping. It is scheduled to be moved to the central bank for inventory within a few days. ”
In the first month of 1949, my father and the arrested comrades of the underground Kuomintang Revolutionary Committee were detained at the military police headquarters in Sheepskin Lane.
The sheepskin compound on Zhongshan South Road is home to several municipal troupes in Nanjing, such as the Yue Opera Troupe, Peking Opera Troupe, Quyi Troupe, Acrobatic Troupe, etc., which have rehearsal theaters. In the early 60s, the Nanjing Opera School used to be here, but later it was disbanded, and many students joined the Peking Opera Troupe of the Yue Opera Troupe. Several municipal troupes have a great influence on the Yue Opera Troupe, led by famous actors such as Zhu Shui Zhao, Xiao Shui Zhao, and Shang Fangchen, and are quite famous in East China. However, from the Republic of China period to the 50s, it used to be the "Nanjing City Funeral Parlor".
Chengge Old Lane is a small street from Hongwu Road in the east to Zhongshan South Road in the west. At the end of the Ming Dynasty, Cheng Guoxiang, a scholar of the Ministry of Rites and a scholar of Dongge University, was called Cheng Ge Lao, he was an honest and honest official, and he returned to live here. Deeply respected by the people, the streets and alleys where he lives are named after "Cheng Ge Lao". When Cheng Guoxiang was young, his family was poor, and even "his father died, and there was no way to bury him", and a neighbor surnamed Li gave him land to bury his father, and Cheng was very grateful. Later, people called the alley where the neighbor Li family lived Li Family Lane. Cheng Guoxiang's former residence is at No. 14 Chengge Old Lane, which is now Miaojue Nunnery.
▲Chengge Old Lane
On the opposite side of Chengge Old Lane, on the west side of Zhongshan South Road, there used to be a long courtyard wall of units. I remember that during the Great Leap Forward in the late 50s, this was a street of murals in Nanjing, full of pompous new folk songs and murals full of absurd elements. I remember the most representative new folk song is: "There is no Jade Emperor in the sky, and there is no Dragon King on the earth; I am the Jade Emperor, I am the Dragon King; Drink the three mountains and five mountains to open the way: I'm coming! "Unfortunately, I didn't find a single trace of text or pictures about the murals on Zhongshan South Road, so I found two representative posters on the Internet.
Opposite the old alley of Chengge is Sanyuan Alley, and the alley is named after the famous general Yin Feng. During the Jiajing period, Yin Feng took the martial arts examination, and won the first place in the township examination, the meeting examination, and the palace examination. After Yin Zhuangyuan was promoted to the top of the martial arts, he was awarded the title of Zhongdu Liu, guarding Fujian, and he led the army in Fujian to fight a bloody battle against the Japanese and became an anti-Japanese hero. During the Wanli period of the Ming Dynasty, Yin Feng died of illness at the age of 76. Before his death, he also donated his building.
In the past, there was a large-scale mansion at the mouth of Sanyuan Lane, which was originally the residence of a customs official in the Qing Dynasty, and became Sun Chuanfang's residence during the warlord war. It is rumored that "the house is brilliant, the color light is dazzling, the lotus pond water pavilion, the corridor is curved, and the trees and bamboos are thick". After the National Revolutionary Army occupied Nanjing, the newly married Jiang Song and his wife used to live in this mansion. Later, Zhongzheng Road, now known as Zhongshan South Road, was divided into two for this luxurious mansion, and Jiang decided to build a flyover to connect the office and residential areas. The overpass was not built, and the mansion should be half in Sanyuan Lane and half in Chengge Old Lane.
▲Sanyuan Lane
Hong Gong Ancestral Hall in the south of Sanyuan Lane, in the early Qing Dynasty, here is the residence of the Governor Jiangnan Military Affairs Hong Chengchou, after his death, the Qing government commemorated his exploits, built the largest ancestral hall in Nanjing at that time, so the street name Hong Gong Ancestral Hall. The mansion in the ancestral hall is an independent old-fashioned garden house, covering an area of about 60 acres. During the Taiping Heavenly Kingdom, Li Xiucheng built a loyal palace here. The Qing army Zeng Guofan's brothers broke through Tianjing, and after the Zhongwang Mansion was looted, it suddenly became a barren ruin. In 1928, the young marshal Zhang Xueliang came to Nanjing many times to discuss matters and purchased this place, and the young marshal went to Nanjing to live here for a while. Later, because Dai Li and Zhang Xueliang were friends, Zhang Xueliang gave this property to Dai Li, the head of the military command. Military Command is the abbreviation of the Survey and Statistics Bureau of the Military Commission of the National Government, which was later reorganized into the Secrecy Bureau. After the Xi'an Incident, Zhang Xueliang returned to Nanjing with Chiang Kai-shek, and also took up residence here, and the court where he was tried was in the sheepskin alley not far from the Honggong Temple.
▲Zhang Xueliang and others took a group photo in front of the Honggong Ancestral Hall
After the Spring Festival in 1949, the building of the Secret Bureau suddenly caught fire, and it is said that due to factional disputes, Mao Renfeng, the director of the Secret Bureau, planned to burn the headquarters building. The newly built Secret Bureau building after the victory of the Anti-Japanese War was reduced to ashes in a fire, all the whereabouts of the files are unknown, and No. 1 Honggong Temple was once again reduced to a rubble field. In May of the same year, the Nanjing Municipal Public Security Bureau was established and moved into No. 1 Honggong Ancestral Hall, and then changed the original gate from the south gate to the north gate, facing Sanyuan Lane, and still uses the old site number: Honggong Temple No. 1.
▲Nanjing Municipal Public Security Bureau
In the past 380 years, the Honggong Ancestral Hall has witnessed the earth-shaking historical changes in Nanjing: the former Hong Mansion, the Hong Gong Ancestral Hall, the Zhongwang Mansion, the Young Marshal's Mansion, the Military Command Bureau, the Secrecy Bureau to today's Public Security Bureau and the National Security Bureau.
Nanjing Daxin Jiekou has endless historical stories......
Originally published on the WeChat public account "Phoenix Terrace", the article refers to "No. 35 Huaihai Road, the World Cultural Heritage that Never Opens the Door", "Discovering the Building of the National Government National History Museum at No. 31 Huaihai Road", "Honggong Ancestral Hall: History Walks Here" and other articles, the pictures are all network pictures, and thank you together!