1
Bai Juyi has a poem "Sending Hu Cake and Yang Wanzhou":
Flax cakes are like Kyoto, and the crispy oil is freshly baked.
Sent to the hungry Ambassador Yang, taste as if there is no support.
From this point of view, as early as the Tang Dynasty, the ancestors of China had already made delicious cake-like delicacies.
Although the "cake sample" learned from Kyoto's craftsmanship, its appearance of "flax", the posture of "crispy and fragrant noodles", and the status of "freshly baked" fresh food are very similar to today's baked cakes.
Boshan is the hometown of baked cakes.
To make Boshan meat cake, you need a solid foundation of craftsmanship, generally are family skills, inheritance of the wind, now in Boshan City, there are not many people who can have this traditional craft. Fortunately, some regular restaurants are also inheriting this skill, so that the beautiful aroma of Boshan meat cake can be further exerted.
He once interviewed Mr. Wang Peng, general manager of Jule Village Restaurant, about Boshan meat cake, and he said:
Boshan meat baked cakes, fire and other baked foods, mainly with the kiln as the founding element. This has a lot to do with the development of the Boshan kiln industry.
The temperature curve of the kiln and the combustion medium (coke) are the main sources of kinetic energy for fire and cake burning.
For example, like Zhoucun baked cakes, Boshan people call it "Bo Gaga", from a formal point of view, Boshan fire and burnt cakes have their own advantages, but there are significant differences.
Boshan pork cake, mainly filled with fresh pork and green onions, seasoned with salt, and without soy sauce and other condiments, highlighting the original meat aroma.
This is the fundamental difference in content from other burnt cakes.
At one of the gatherings, I happened to meet Mr. Huang Zujie, an advisor to the Boshan Cultural Research Institute, who talked to me about the topic of Boshan meat cake. As an elder, he has seen too many customs and customs of the old Boshan City, and is also an active excavator and promoter of local culture.
He said to me that to eat a newly baked meatloaf, you need to eat it with hot air, just like you have to drink porridge in a bowl, and you want it to be hot.
Boshan meat baked cake, small size, after being made in a pottery urn cake oven, hanging and baking against the wall, the bottom of the coke as the source of fire, the heating environment is relatively closed and uniform.
Therefore, the meat baked cake filling, the water in the fabric, after the bottom fire baking, quickly inflated, so that the burnt cake to the fire surface, heated up, but the burnt cake crust, will never break the exposed filling, so as to achieve the outer scorched and tender taste realm.
Network diagram
At this time, the rich aroma of the meat baked cake filling will surely spew out thin, and the word "incense" in the Boshan dialect is described under this scene, which is appropriate.
This is another distinctive feature of Boshan meat baked cakes, which distinguishes other burnt cakes.
Boshan meat roast cake, originated from the He Dynasty and He Dynasty, there are many opinions, and there is no accurate historical record. There is no need to go back too far here, but one thing is certain, that is:
Boshan kiln industry is the birth mother of Boshan meat cake.
Boshan meat cake, as a fine product in Boshan snacks, condenses too much food nostalgia of Boshan people.
This is a complex deeply rooted in the hearts of Boshan people, who transform the charm of water and soil into a long-lasting food memory, together with personal growth, with nostalgia, and with the passage of time.
Almost every Boshan person over the age of fifty, or younger, in his growth history, has a love affair with Boshan meat cake, which is beyond recognition.
The years are traceless, and the food is merciless.
Boshan meat cake has been a material and spiritual food that generations of Boshan people have witnessed the quiet and bitter years of the past.
The Boshan people's complex of meat roast cakes, like the Beijing people's boiled and boiled, the Tianjin people's pancake fruit, and the Shanghai people's stove buns, belong to the genetic level cuisine.
It can be said that the paper is short and long, and it is difficult to say a word.
2
In the early 1980s, when the market economy had just opened, the shops that personally processed and sold meat cakes in Boshan were also revived, and more old craftsmen were able to carry forward this craft.
The meat cakes of that era, in the Recipes of the Boshan people, were at the high end and were not as usual as they are today.
Those in the alleyways of the hutongs, fragrant meat cakes, golden buttery fried buns, and Boshan wontons with thick soup are undoubtedly the three indispensable gastronomic complexes of Boshan people in that era.
I even heard a colleague say that when I was a child, I thought of a way to pretend to be sick, and I cried out that I didn't want to eat, in exchange for my mother's soft intestines, and I made an exception to buy a bowl of wontons to relieve the joke.
Behind the joke, there is undoubtedly the lack of food in the years of poverty, and it is also the long-term comfort that the bowl of wontons brings to the soul.
I remember my uncle's family, in 1962 with the municipal government moved, the family moved to Zhangdian.
At that time, the distance between Zhang Bo and Zhang Bo was as short as forty kilometers, but it was like the end of the world.
The prosperity of Boshan is known for its cuisine, and every time he returns to Boshan, uncle must eat a bowl of wontons from Xiguan and buy a few majiagou meat cakes on majiagou street.
Only in this way could the great master return home.
The excellent companion for eating Boshan meat roast cake is the original food oil powder of Boshan people, the two are compatible, just the right dry and wet taste, carried out a perfect neutralization, the sour aroma of the oil powder dissolves the greasy of the burnt cake, and the mellowness of the burnt cake enhances the purity of the oil powder.
Food is like that, almost not at all, only natives can understand the fun of their respective food pairings.
One side of the water and soil, one side of the people.
When I was on a business trip in Jingjiang, Taizhou, Jiangsu Province, I spent some time in an ancient town called "Jishi". There is a kind of baked cake called "fermented cake", which has been reported by CCTV many times.
And to eat that kind of burnt cake, you need to accompany a kind of "bean flower" similar to tofu brain, light and refreshing, and interesting. It is similar to eating Boshan meat baked cake and drinking Boshan oil powder.
Liang Shiqiu has an essay on "Burnt Cake Fritters" in his collection of essays, "Yashe Talks About Eating".
He said that burnt cake fritters are one of the standard breakfasts we Chinese, and in the north, regardless of province, class, age or child, they probably like to eat.
Burnt cakes, as a prominent representative of the "northern food" system, are widely present in most of the northern region.
But have you ever found that although the style of baked cakes varies from place to place, the content is roughly the same, except for the baked cakes with meat filling, which are rare.
In the past, it was not easy to eat a roasted cake dipped in sesame seeds, let alone a "meat cake".
Imagine boshan meat cake, if it endorses the historical context of the kiln industry, is it also related to the high standard of eating costs and superior economic income of the kiln craftsmen at that time.
Between supply and demand, it is inevitable that value will be used as a measure of size.
The practice of burning cake with meat will definitely have the consumer demand of "burning cake with meat", otherwise, the price of burning cake with meat will naturally be high, and they cannot afford to eat it, who to sell it to?
Therefore, Boshan meat cake, in the Boshan snacks, the value is geometric, in the minds of Boshan people, what kind of position, it is self-evident.
3
In the 5,000-year history of Chinese cuisine, the delicacies of each place are full of the wisdom of working people, and the same is true of Boshan.
Lu You once wrote a poem "Today's Shan Weng self-cook, Jia Cuisine is not like going out of poverty".
When a delicacy and nostalgia are strongly combined, it is not only the taste, but also the feelings.
This is also in a certain realm, analogy with the colorful brilliance of society and human nature, the process of pursuing food, is not a kind of exploration of civilization by human beings.
The small Boshan meat cake contains a simple wisdom of the working public and the pursuit of a better life, which is the Most unique value of the Boshan meat cake and the spiritual cuisine of the Boshan people.
Therefore, pinbo mountain meat cake is not only a delicious taste at the material level, but also a number of pursuits at the spiritual level, which is the source of inspiration for Boshan cuisine, and it is also the heart of many Boshan catering people who are sticking to it.
Although the burnt cake is small, it is clean and large, and although the taste is simple, it can be deep.