Nine-turn large intestine is the representative dish of Lu cuisine, because of its large number of makers and different traditions, ten Lu restaurants may have ten methods, which look similar from a distance and taste slightly different.
As the leader of the nine-turn large intestine of the century-old shop "Yanxitang", it was once red half of the sky. The traditional method of restoration by teacher Fu Deng Junqiu is very exquisite: high pressure on the large intestine for a quarter of an hour, rinse without blackening; white sugar twice; no drop of water, a hundred spoons...
Several Lu cuisine masters secretly praised this technique and contributed their cooking experience:
Why use sesame oil to fry sugar?
What coloring effect is best for the large intestine?
What is the technical key to making a crystal clear date red?
Where does the fusion of sweet and sour, bitter, spicy and salty taste come from?
……
【Nine turns of large intestine】
Without adding a drop of water, flip the spoon a hundred times
High pressure for a quarter of an hour, rinse without blackening
After the pig intestine is cleaned, it is cooked in a pressure cooker, the time is controlled at about 15 minutes, if the time is too long, the large intestine is soft and chewy. The inside and outside of the pressed large intestine should be rinsed to cool, otherwise the color is not only easy to blacken when stored, but also the casing will become hard, it is not easy to absorb the sugar color, and the color inside and outside the dish is different.
Operation Procedure:
Pig intestine 10 pounds with flour, vinegar to rub off the mucus, remove the fat oil, into the boiling water through, skim off the foam and pour into the pressure cooker, add water over the large intestine, add green onion segments, ginger slices each 100 grams of low heat pressure for 15 minutes, after steaming, about 5 pounds of pig intestine, rush to the intestine inside and outside cool through, change the knife into a 3 cm long segment, every 250 grams for a bag to save.
Light yellow when down, jujube red when out
This dish pays attention to "sweet, sour, bitter, spicy and salty" in terms of taste type, mainly sweet, supplemented by other four flavors.
When making, first fry the white sugar until the shreds, pour in the large intestine for 20 times to wrap the sugar liquid, then cook the white vinegar to make the sour aroma, and then add sugar, pepper, salt to taste, upside down until the sugar solution is completely absorbed by the large intestine, and the dish is date red. Among them, the first time to put sugar sweetness is insufficient, the main purpose is to color the large intestine, the melting point of white sugar is higher than water, can make the large intestine fully expanded, evenly wrapped in a layer of golden sugar liquid, at this time cooking into the white vinegar, "uh" a little, the large intestine quickly contracted, a stretch between a contraction, you can evenly color; followed by sugar, pepper, salt, this second time to add white sugar can not only make the large intestine full of taste, but also can make the intestine wrapped in a layer of crystal clear jujube red.
During the whole process, it is necessary to constantly turn the spoon, the number of times is about 100 times, and the large intestine is stretched and stretched in the upside down, fully "eating" the taste of sugar and spices. Another function of the upside-down spoon is to reduce the time that the raw material stays in the pot, making the product more flexible.
Cooking process:
1: Take a portion of the pig's large intestine and blanch it in boiling water, drain it, sprinkle a little ginger and garlic and grasp well.
2: Heat a little oil in the pan, add 80g sugar and fry until dissolved.
3. When the sugar noodles begin to bubble yellow, pour into the large intestine section, and keep turning the spoon more than 20 times until each section of the large intestine is coated with sugar liquid.
4: Add 6g of white vinegar along the edge of the pot and continue to stir well.
5: Pour in 100g sugar, 8g pepper, 3g chicken powder and 2g salt.
6: After the sugar is fried, continue to turn the spoon upside down 70 or 80 times until the sugar solution wrapped on the surface of the large intestine becomes date red.
7: Sprinkle 1g of sand kernel powder and cinnamon powder, drizzle with a little cooking oil, turn well and get out of the pot.
note:
Stir-fry sugar to use a low heat, the first time to fry to the state of pulling silk, that is, the sugar liquid color is light yellow, the sugar surface begins to bubble when it is poured into the large intestine, the second time more attention should be paid to the heat and time, the large intestine can be plated with jujube red, if it is fried, not only the taste is bitter, the color will also darken.
【Master's View】
Han Cheng'an:
The large intestine is cooked in two parts
Master Deng's method is very authentic, worth learning, it is worth noting that: the nine-turn large intestine is a complex process, quite a test of the chef's basic skills of the Lu dish, the large intestine should be cooked to eight points, when the dish is boiled or slightly scalded with boiling water, and then put the large intestine in a ventilated place to dry or dip the water with a towel, otherwise it is easy to "fry the pan" after encountering sugar liquid, splashing and hurting people.
Gu Guangkai:
Different parts of the large intestine correspond to different techniques
A section of the large intestine, each part of the texture is different, should correspond to a different cooking method. The large intestine has a thick taste and is the best raw material for making nine-turn large intestine; and the midgut is also called "a green onion", fat but not greasy, I think it is most suitable for making crispy large intestine; small intestine oil is less, can be used to make a large intestine pot; and the end of the flower intestine is the most suitable for dry pot large intestine, stir-fried flower intestines and other dishes.
The last 30 seconds of coloring
In the early stage, the white sugar is fried until the shred is just to give the large intestine a basic color, the last 30 seconds of the second sugar stir-frying is the key moment to give the large intestine a jujube red, I make nine turns of the large intestine steps: plucking silk - inverted intestine - cooking vinegar - add sugar - add soup - add soup to the five minutes, the chef can completely leave the wok to do other things, until the sugar juice remains 1/3, you need to keep turning the spoon until the color of the large intestine is date red, evenly wrapped in sugar liquid, to prevent the paste pot.
Ground the pepper and sprinkled before cooking
Pepper is a volatile spice, it should be added with ground kernel powder and cinnamon powder before starting the pot or a little earlier than them, it is best not to sprinkle it into the pot in advance with sugar and salt. In addition, it is best to use self-ground pepper, which is spicy and strong after heating at high temperatures.
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