It is early winter, it is the season of digging cabbage and eating cabbage, take a warm day of winter sun, my lover and I went to the countryside and forests on the outskirts of the city, looking for digging cabbage, one after another cabbage grows green and beautiful, fresh and spirited, emitting a unique fragrance. I love to eat cabbage, can be cold mixed can be stir-fried can be boiled soup can be made into porridge, with cabbage to mix stuffing dumplings, make wontons, spread pancakes, the taste is more beautiful, the taste is not exhausted is the seductive fragrance.
Cabbage, also known as cabbage, ground vegetables, ground rice vegetables, chicken cabbage, nursing herbs, cruciferous water chestnut genus annual or biennial herbs, is a kind of winter and spring common wild vegetables, not only delicious and delicious, but also high nutritional value, rich in protein, fat, dietary fiber, carbohydrates and various vitamins, trace elements and other components, can also be used in medicine, with spleen, water, hemostasis, bright purpose effect, is a kind of medicinal and edible wild vegetables.
The ancients have long recorded this sweet and refreshing wild vegetable, and it is written in the Book of Poetry, Shaofeng, Gufeng: "Whoever is said to be bitter is as sweet as a thorn." "The protagonist of the poem said, whoever said that the taste of the cabbage was painful and swallowed, but I ate it as sweetly as the cabbage. It can be seen that in the pre-Qin period, people have begun to eat cabbage.
It is a kind of wintering wild vegetable, it is the same as winter wheat, autumn sprouts, over the long winter, not afraid of frost and snow cold, even with a layer of ice can grow, showing its refreshing appearance. The Western Jin Dynasty literary scholar Xiahou Zhan wrote in the "Sui Fu":
Drill heavy ice and thick, covered with severe frost to produce freshness.
Shesheng Yang and Fu Meng, in the Taiyin and Si Yu.
Yong'an is cold, and Qiang is not peaceful.
Qi Jing qi in Mu Dong, all zhen solid pine bamboo.
It means that the general grass and trees only break out of the ground when the weather eases, but the cabbage comes out of the cold, the growth is luxuriant, the spirit is vigorous, and its spirit can be compared with pine and bamboo, which shows its character. The Southern Dynasty Song dynasty Man Bian Boyu also wrote "Sui Fu", which has a sentence in the poem:
The final wind sweeps in the twilight festival, and the frost and dew are handed over to the autumn.
There are green grasses of the fang, which are multiplied in the middle hills.
Praise the cold and proud snow of the cabbage, and become a green scenery on the winter field.
The reason why the flavor of cabbage is loved is that it has a local flavor and nostalgia. The eunuch Gao Lishi during the Tang Dynasty was loyal to Emperor Xuanzong of Tang all his life, and was later framed and exiled to Qianzhongdao. When he traveled to Wuzhou, Gao Lishi saw that there were many cabbages in his land and no one ate them, and he was sentimental and composed "Feeling Wuzhou Cabbage" Cloud:
The two capitals are sold for pounds, and no one in Wuxi is picked.
Although Yixia is different, the smell does not change.
No matter where it is born, whether it is noble or not, its delicious and sweet taste will not change. The author borrows things to show that he will always maintain his true colors no matter when and where he is, expressing the old slave's bold loyalty to his master. On the other hand, it also shows that chinese cabbage was already a delicious wild vegetable that people loved to eat in the Tang Dynasty.
In the Song Dynasty, the wind of eating was even more abundant. The Northern Song Dynasty poet Su Shi was not only a great writer, but also a famous foodie, who loved the delicious wild vegetables of the cabbage and praised it as "a natural treasure, although small and sweet in the five tastes, but also the beauty of the taste." When he was demoted to the outside world, he lived in embarrassment, often with his neighbors in the mountains to dig up cabbage, cook porridge with cabbage, soybeans and japonica rice, called "Dongpo soup", and praised in a letter to friends: "If the king knows its taste, then Lu Bazhen can despise it." "No fish and meat five flavors, there is natural sweetness." In his poem to his younger brother Ziyu, he mentions digging up cabbage to make porridge soup:
Bamboo shoots sprout under the new spring steps, and the frost in the kitchen is old.
When going around the wheat field to ask for wild grass, Qiang cooked mountain soup for the monk's house.
- "The Second Rhyme Grows Vegetables for a Long Time without Drought"
Because the drought is serious, it is not possible to grow vegetables in the garden, so go to the wheat field to dig up the cabbage, and the cabbage soup made is comparable to the beauty made by the old monks of the temple.
It is not only Su Shi who is idle to dig up cabbage and taste wild game, but also a large number of people in the Song Dynasty who have this hobby. The Southern Song Dynasty poet Han Zheng squatted on the wall roots in the winter to bask in the sun, idle to find cabbage, and found a full of small happiness:
The walls of the pillar staff are shady, idly looking for picks.
Can't help but be outside the grass, the first sun under the plum shoots.
Although there is no herb, the umami taste of the cabbage and the charm on the plum shoots are more beautiful. After digging up the cabbage, Han Chun also had to make his own cabbage soup, he wrote in "The Twenty-eighth Day of the First Month":
Picked anywhere into a cabbage soup, only with fresh water into the bottle poppies.
The spring breeze does not live up to the idle belly, and wins the hook full of the line.
This cabbage soup is good, after eating satisfactorily, I only feel that my stomach is full of spring breeze.
The Southern Song Dynasty scholar Xu Yinglong also liked to dig up cabbage, but he was looking for cabbage by stepping on the snow, and he chanted:
Pluck the snow to pick the leaves to turn green, delete and cook themselves as a cup soup.
Baojie Xiang masonry He Zengzhi preferred to be born all over the place in the cold door.
The poet plucked the snow to find the qingling spirit of the cabbage, chose to wash and boil the porridge for himself, tasted the beauty of the taste, it turned out that this cabbage could not be found in the treasure order incense, greenhouse vegetable garden, the more cold and barbaric the land, the more it grew freely!
Not only do they eat their own cabbage and eat cabbage, but the poets also entertain guests with cabbage as a delicacy. On the occasion of the New Year of the Southern Song Dynasty poet Liu Kezhuang, he and his friends traveled all the way, saw the withered village, and sighed:
Skip riding a horse to take advantage of the southern ya, and gomiku village to change the age.
The spinners are dispatched to pick vegetables, and the guests of the virtual labor are praising the pepper flowers.
- "The First Day of the First Day"
On this day of chaos and difficulties, let's celebrate the New Year with cabbage porridge.
The most beloved of this natural treasure from the mountains, I have to say that the Song Dynasty was another big foodie land tour. The depth of his love is evident from the long poem "Ten Rhymes of Eating Pods" written by him, and the most wonderful verses are:
But by the heavens, Qingqing was given by Linggang,
Zhenmei ping salt cheese, Geng Jie Ling snow cream.
There is no shortage of days, cooking has a secret recipe,
Heat the stove and add grits and sand bowls.
It is still a miscellaneous fern, and the condition is dirty.
Cooking japonica and boiling cakes will give you a lifetime glow.
I am hungry and easy to be satisfied, and I am ecstatic,
Sweep away ten thousand money food, and finally the old man next to the mountain.
He praised this heavenly gift, the green and green lingling all over the mountain, did not like to eat it can not stand nature. The poet was impatient to describe the practice of cabbage, first from the collection of cabbage, and then processing, cooking the whole process, even the side dishes are written, this is the whole process of realism! "I'm hungry and full of joy." It can be seen how much he is obsessed with cabbage. Finally, I also said that those golden and precious things that can be obtained for ten thousand dollars should not be mentioned, I only need this fresh cabbage to end the old mountain villa!
Lu You is simply "cabbage control", and his poems mention it more than once. He said in The Eater:
Every day I think about it, and I forget to return in the spring.
Boasting about the bitterness of the true desire, laughing at when it will be fattened.
He also said:
Small salt and taste, slightly add ginger gui to help the spirit.
The wind furnace is a poor family, and the magic trick He Zeng is willing to teach people.
It means the beauty of cabbage, bracken, melon are not comparable, cooking cabbage he has a unique technology, but it is not easy to show people. He added:
Cabbage is picked for cake, and locust buds are picked as leaves.
Asagiri has two belly, not ridiculous seclusion.
- "The Secluded"
I eat cabbage cakes, taste pickled locust sprouts, mozzar mozzie belly, beautiful, do you dare to laugh at me living in the countryside? He also returned the clouds in "Eating The So-called Dongpo Soup of the Shu People":
The grits are sweet and wonderful, and the sips are like being in Emin.
The soup is difficult to defend, and the milk is not cherished.
The peculiar smell is quite thoughtful to repair the offering, and the secret recipe is often taught to the cook.
The noon window is self-caressing the bulging belly, so that the tobacco village is not tired of poverty.
I couldn't help but tell him his skills in cooking cabbage, using lettuce and rice grits to make porridge, or using lettuce soup and tempeh, which tasted better than cow's milk red crisp! He rubbed his stomach again and boasted: Let's all come to the countryside to live, let's all come to dig up cabbage, but don't abandon the poverty of this life! He ate until the cabbage blossomed, became old, could not eat, or remembered, wrote a "spring grass":
Food case He Xiaoran, spring flowers like snow;
From today's old hard, why pick it up?
From this, we can see lu you's deep love for it.
The poet Ling Yunhan of the late Yuan and early Ming Dynasties said: "The east wind dissipates the snow in front of the door, and I see the wall of yin and cabbage." "To the field sprinkled with sunshine in winter, dig a basket of green and fresh water spirit cabbage, taste a taste of spring in winter, you will feel that the sun is very good, the breeze is not cold, the time is not old, we will all look forward to it, looking forward to "the deep village of the pods, the spring wind for me"!
-Author-
Liu Qirui, male, a native of Tancheng, Shandong, a veteran literature lover, published the essay collection "The Song of that year", "Nostalgia is a Curved Blue Moon" and the short story collection "Hedong Hexi".