The charm of China, the long culture; the good costumes, the echoes of the Silk Road. The connotation of the costume and the charm of the ornament are also one of the ways to reach the depths of civilization.
On January 25th, the "Yunxiang Clothing - Silk Road Costume Culture Special Exhibition" was opened at the Chengdu Museum, presenting the grand and majestic costume culture on the ancient Silk Road, the prosperous and exquisite kingdom of clothing and crown, and the humanistic and historical picture infiltrated with the self-confidence of a thousand years of culture.
Treasures come together
Journey through the millennium "Kingdom of The Crown"
The dragon-shaped gold necklaces and gem-encrusted gold crown ornaments unearthed in Inner Mongolia, and the Jin Fangqi excavated from Yanchi in Ningxia empirically demonstrate the exchange and integration of foreign culture and Central Plains costume culture; the portrait bricks unearthed in Gaotai County, Gansu Province, truly depict the local textile production technology in the western regions during the Wei and Jin Dynasties, showing the spread of Central Plains textile technology along the Silk Road... "Yunxiang Clothing - Silk Road Costume Culture Special Exhibition" Through the interpretation of the development and change of clothing culture along the Silk Road, It explores the continuous development of traditional Chinese costumes in national integration, and highlights the artistic achievements of the Chinese nation as the "Kingdom of Clothing".
Dragon-shaped gold necklace from the Inner Mongolia Museum. Photo courtesy of Yang Yong
Gem-encrusted gold crown ornament of the Inner Mongolia Museum. Photo courtesy of Yang Yong
Gaotai County Museum's Caisantu portrait brick. Photo courtesy of Yang Yong
Gaotai County Museum's yarn tow drawing portrait brick. Photo courtesy of Yang Yong
Cut-out portrait brick of Gaotai County Museum. Photo courtesy of Yang Yong
This exhibition concentrates the characteristic historical and cultural resources of Chengdu and the cultural and cultural units along the Silk Road, not only the classic collection of provincial large museums, but also the fine cultural relics of a number of small and medium-sized museums in places that have rarely entered the public eye before. For this cooperation model, the curator said that this not only satisfies the needs of Chengbo as a curator, gathering more cultural relics and concentrating on presenting a good exhibition, but also promotes the exchange of collection resources of local museums, so that their collections of exquisite cultural relics can be fully displayed; at the same time, it can also meet the audience's viewing needs for new exhibitions and optimistic exhibitions, appreciate the style of exquisite cultural relics in different regions, and achieve mutual benefit and mutual prosperity and win-win results for all parties.
"Service" has been passed down from ancient to modern times
Return to the silk road
Throughout the ages, clothing culture has been an important vein in traditional Chinese culture. According to reports, this exhibition takes the theme of "The Belt and Road", "Ethnic Integration" and "Technology and Cultural Exchange", and through the themes of "the early opening of the Silk Road and the Western Transmission of Han Jin", "the integration and development of national costumes", "weaving technology and style innovation", etc., it shows the historical trajectory of the integration and development of multi-source costume culture on the Silk Road, and outlines a splendid picture of the continuous and thriving chinese national costume culture.
Silkworm ancestors, silkworm bush people raise silkworms, silkworm god horse head lady... As early as thousands of years ago, the ancient Chinese ancestors have domesticated the wild mulberry silkworm into silkworms, and then invented the silk reeling and silk weaving technology, and established the original silk weaving industry.
By the second century BC, Emperor Wudi of the Han Dynasty sent Zhang Qian on an envoy to the Western Regions, opening up the famous "Silk Road" in history, and the Han Dynasty costume system was established. From crown clothes to hair ornaments, from silk brocade to yarn, the clothing system with Han cultural characteristics has gradually formed, and a beautiful journey has begun in the Yangyang Han style. The silk fabrics of the Western Han Dynasty unearthed in Mawangdui in Changsha are light and transparent, and the plain weave with obvious square holes reflects the rapid progress of Chinese costume culture under the great unification of the Han Dynasty.
Printed gold and silver flame yarn of Hunan Provincial Museum. Photo courtesy of Yang Yong
The yellow-brown pair of bird diamond patterns of the Hunan Provincial Museum is "embroidered by clouds", with the embroidery as the embroidery ground, the weaving pattern and the embroidery pattern are intertwined, and the geometric pattern, animal and plant patterns in the pattern are alternately distributed, which is particularly luxurious. Peach-shaped patterns and cloud patterns, called "cloud embroidery", means "phoenix bird riding clouds". Photo courtesy of Yang Yong
During the Southern and Northern Dynasties, the Southern Silk Road, henan province of the Northern Silk Road, starting from Chengdu, flourished. Costume cultures from different regions and different nationalities competed on the Silk Road, constituting the main theme of multicultural integration.
During this period, tuguhuns, guizi, great Qin and other ancient countries in the western region, xianbei, qiang, xenon and other ethnic minorities lived in a staggered mixed, and the characteristics of the costumes of various ethnic groups were blended and intertwined, forming a unique fashion of unbridled and unsculpted. At the same time, in the stage of the great integration of clothing culture and the prosperity and development of the Silk Road, the Western Regions have begun to produce silk fabrics locally, and the patterns integrate the characteristics of Chinese and Western cultures, with unique exotic styles.
The former Qin purple valerian of the Gansu Provincial Institute of Cultural Relics and Archaeology has a square tie-dye valerian point, evenly tiled, staggered and orderly; the cuffs are wide and broad, and the waist is wide. Such a large fabric of the stranded jacket is very rare, wearing its clothes, full of fairy breath and ethereal feeling. Photo courtesy of Yang Yong
Gansu Provincial Institute of Cultural Relics and Archaeology of the crimson green skirt, there are two colors, a total of 6 pieces, using the skirt between the jump color splicing weaving, is the Wei and Jin Southern and Northern Dynasties period of the "fashion explosion". Photo courtesy of Yang Yong
Plain silk acacia pants from the National Costume Museum of Beijing Institute of Fashion. These pants, spliced by rectangular fabrics, cut the fabric as sparingly as possible, embody the traditional Chinese concept of creation of "cherishing things", and at the same time meet the functional needs to the greatest extent. Photo courtesy of Zhang Yuteng
Yanchi County Museum of hunting Tujin "Fang Qi". Its ornamentation has a distinctly extraterritorial style. Hunting warriors have the characteristics of nomadic people, winged lions are the artistic factors of the Persian Achaemenid dynasty, and the outer frame dragon pattern is representative of traditional Chinese ornamentation. Therefore, this "Fang Qi" has become a historical "witness" of cultural integration and cultural exchanges on the Silk Road. Photo courtesy of Zhang Yuteng
"The clouds want to dress and flowers, and the spring breeze blows Revlon." Shi Xian Li Bai's "Yun Xiang Clothes" shows the grace and beauty of Yang Guifei's costumes. The Tang Dynasty has launched the most splendid and dazzling chapter in ancient China, and the costumes of the Tang Dynasty have inherited the winds of the Qin and Han Dynasties and the Wei and Jin Dynasties, and the beauty of the countries along the Silk Road has profoundly affected the development of costumes in East Asia, achieving the reputation of the Chinese nation as the "Kingdom of Clothing and Crowns", and leaving a strong mark in Chinese history.
Painted grey pottery figurines at the Gyeongseong Prefectural Museum. The female figurines from the Kaiyuan Prosperous Era comb their hair in buns, their sideburns and black hair cover their ears, they wear long skirts with dragging ground, their feet are upturned, they are covered with black large folding collars, and their hands are folded around their waists, with a dignified and generous form, graceful and luxurious. Photo courtesy of Zhang Yuteng
Painted male figurines at the Gyeongseong Prefectural Museum. The figurine is wrapped in a black head, wearing a round neck underwear with white flowers on a black background, a light black robe on the right side of the ground, a black leather belt on the abdomen, and the left hem of the robe is lifted and tucked under the leather belt, revealing the moon white and four-petal red silk pants, and the feet are on the white pointed shoes. The clay figurine has a plump face and a smiling face, with his left arm bent on his chest, his right arm outstretched, and his forearm with wide pink sleeves. Photo courtesy of Zhang Yuteng
Treasure pattern brocade robe of the China Silk Museum. From the style point of view, it is a narrow sleeve robe, the fabric organization is twill weft brocade, and the pattern is a typical Tang Dynasty Tuanqiao treasure pattern. The treasure flower of the big one takes eight front petals as the core, and then eight blooming side-type treasure flowers as the second layer, and the outermost layer is also a treasure flower with eight flowers and leaves, which is very gorgeous and rich. Photo courtesy of Zhang Yuteng
The red ground flap of the Gansu Provincial Museum is against Ma Jinyi. Photo courtesy of Zhang Yuteng
Gansu Provincial Museum's red-field embroidered ball-pattern Aya bag. Photo courtesy of Zhang Yuteng
From makeup to clothing, from accessories to wear, the cultural characteristics of Tang Dynasty costumes are vividly displayed in clothing, and through them, it seems to see the glorious and beautiful Huazhang prosperous world.
Looking back at the Silk Road, from the technical innovation of hand-cranked spinning wheels to bouquet jacquard machines, from the continuous attempts of twill weft brocade to gold-added fabrics, from the pleated crotches of pants that integrate the cultures of the North and the South to the openness and compatibility of the unique fashion of "women wearing men's clothing" in the Tang Dynasty... Chinese clothing has been evolving and changing, being inclusive and developing a more diversified spiritual core. Its connotation lies in continuous bold innovation, in the unique concept and wisdom, and in the inner arrogance and pride.
Under the epidemic
Museum "available"
Affected by the epidemic in Xi'an, some exhibits from Shaanxi had to be postponed. To this end, the exhibition specially launched immersive historical images to bring everyone a unique viewing experience.
In the center of the exhibition hall, a number of projectors reflect the map frames overlapping and overlapping, reflecting on the curved wall in front, and the images reproduce the exquisite story paintings of Dunhuang, the images of the costumes of the painted figures, the animal head brocade excavated from the Loulan site in Xinjiang, and the various colored embroideries from the Niya site... In the flash of light, the audience seems to walk into history alone, personally experiencing the changes and changes of Yangyang Chinese costume culture.
"You are clothed, but you are clothed with the Son." Chinese costume culture not only represents the unique spiritual identity of the Chinese nation, but also highlights the deep spiritual pursuit, while outlining the gorgeous picture of the Chinese national costumes, it brings us enough creativity to open up a new era of "clothing kingdom".
Culture is the foundation of urban growth, as a city with an endless heritage of thousands of years, Chengdu has always pursued innovation, change and inclusiveness. As an urban museum in the center of Chengdu, Chengdu Museum plays a continuous and important role in cultural exchanges and mutual learning. This exhibition also contributes to the creation of a world cultural city in Chengdu by looking back at the integration and innovation of Silk Road costume culture over the past thousand years.