Qianjiang Evening News Hourly News Reporter Song Hao
Recently, the temperature in the south took off, according to the meteorological department, yesterday the temperature in Zhejiang Province has exceeded 20 °C, and Jingning has reached 27.2 °C. Tourists around Hangzhou's West Lake also took off their coats and held them in their hands.
It's time to take off your autumn pants.
A few days ago, the Gansu People's Publishing House published the book "The Same Day in the Wind and Moon: Details in the Changes of Ancient Culture", and the author Hou Yinguo talked about the brief history of the warmth of autumn pants.
Autumn pants with open crotch
In the early days, clothes were made from animal furs, and later textiles were invented. The birth of the garment is said to be in the yellow emperor period.
In the "Interpretation of names" written by the Eastern Han Dynasty, "clothes" are explained: "All clothes, upper clothes, clothes, yiye, so people rely on cold and heat; the lower clothes, clothes, obstacles, so self-avoidance of obstacles." "The upper body is called a garment, according to the glyph of the will to create a character; the lower body is called a garment, and in the pattern on the unearthed faience, it can be seen that the garment is similar to a skirt."
In the pre-Qin era, "shin clothes" appeared, which were clothes worn inside the clothes. The shin is the calf, and the "shin coat" can be understood as today's stockings, tied to the waist with a tie, covering from the instep of the foot to the knee. Unlike pants, the "shin coat" wears each leg on each leg, not the way pants are worn, similar to socks.
The "shin coat" needs to be worn in conjunction with the dress, and there are requirements for sitting posture. In Mencius and the Chronicle of History, there is a "jiju" sitting method, and the hips are on the ground, which is a disrespectful way of sitting. But in terms of warmth function, "shin clothes" are considered to be early autumn pants.
The "shin coat" gradually evolved into a waist connection, which is called "quilt". The Eastern Han Dynasty "Shuowen" said: "绔, shin clothes also." ”
We have the idiom "纨绔子" today, 纨 is fine silk, high-grade fabric, "绔" is actually pants, there are different ways of writing, but also written "hakama", today the universal "pants".
Jiangling, Hubei Province, once unearthed the Phoenix Dance Flower Cluster Embroidery Hakama from the Warring States period, which is a relatively sophisticated autumn pants, but it is still open crotch. In some tombs of the Southern Song Dynasty, this kind of crotchless form of single pants and silk cotton pants are available.
The closure of the crotch
How does the "autumn pants" with open crotch have a crotch?
The Book of Han and Empress Xiaozhao shangguan records: "Guang (Huo Guang) wanted the empress to be good at favoring and having children, and the emperor was uneasy, and the left and right and the doctors were all yi, and it was advisable to forbid them, although the palace people made the orders poor and had more belts." ”
The chancellor Huo Guang married his granddaughter Shangguan to Emperor Zhao of Han, hoping that Empress Shangguan would become pregnant as soon as possible. Emperor Han Zhao's health was not good, and the tai doctor told the emperor to abandon the joy of cloud and rain and let the palace concubines wear "poor clothes" to avoid the emperor's people in the palace. Yan Shigu's ancient note: "Poor people have front and back when (crotch)".
Many people think that this is the beginning of the change of open crotch pants to crotch pants, but the book does not think it is accurate. Crotch pants should come from the "hufu" of ethnic minorities.
Archaeology has found "leather pants" in Xinjiang, which have crotches and come from the Western Zhou Dynasty. During the Warring States period, the King of Zhao promoted the "Hufu", the coach rode and shot, and the Hufu began to enter the Central Plains, as a nation on horseback, the Hufu should be the source of the crotch pants. By the Tang Dynasty as late as the Tang Dynasty, the tops and bottoms had been changed to tops and bottoms.
Modern autumn pants as an imported product
Crotch pants appeared earlier in Xinjiang and other regions, and globally, this kind of pants was also promoted from high latitudes.
In the 15th century, Henry VIII of England liked to wear strange clothes, he loved to wear a kind of breeches, wool material, tight, leg wrap, this kind of pants highlight the leg line, gradually popular. Today's women's leggings can be seen as the evolution of this kind of clothing.
Formal modern commercial autumn pants were born in North America, and the patent for autumn pants belonged to a Canadian — also at high latitudes — Frank Stanfield.
At that time, the previous underwear style was up and down, which was equivalent to autumn clothes and autumn pants, and the buttons were from the collar to the lower abdomen, close to the body to keep warm. In 1915, Stanfield invented the modern style of autumn pants that separated the upper and lower levels and applied for a patent.
Today, autumn pants are more diverse, plush, knee-thickened and so on.
But today's young people don't like to wear autumn pants anymore. With the advancement of science and technology, the necessity of autumn pants is gradually disappearing, and young people around the world are gradually abandoning this clothing that may affect the experience and beauty. In Japan, for example, it is said that only the elderly wear autumn pants (of course, this is the same as in China), and female students are bare-legged like snow.
In China, many young people in the south don't wear it all winter unless their mother forces them.
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