Nowadays, people pursue a healthy diet, not only are there fewer shops that use lard to fry noodles, but even the fried noodles themselves are not common in the market.
But old Shanghainese know that fried noodles are a traditional snack that was once a household name.
In the impression of food critic Rui Xinlin, until the 1980s and 1990s, fried noodles with heavy oil were still common in Shanghai.
"When it's hot, there are night stalls on street corners, and there are two foods that can't be lost, one is a snail lion, and the other is fried noodles. Everyone put on their slippers and ran to eat. ”
■ On days when there is a night stall, fried noodles and snail lions are essential. /Photo by Gao Jianping
The fried noodles on the stalls are stir-fried in an iron pot, the fire should be strong, and the master's wrist should be strong. In just two or three minutes, a fragrant stir-fried noodle is served.
"The coarse fried noodles, each one of which is not glued together after the dish, has the kind of 'hard and sticky' (hard and tough) eating. This is probably the reason why Shanghai fried noodles do not use fine noodles. ”
Eating fried noodles, Rui Xinlin likes to sprinkle some fresh spicy powder, remove greasy, and add flavor.
"Fresh chili powder is a very strange spice unique to Shanghai." He said, "Fresh is fresh, but unlike MSG, letting go of the head will be evil and fresh; spicy is spicy, but it is only slightly spicy, and no matter how you put it, it will not be spicy." ”
He also remembers that at that time, most of the fried noodles were made of lard, which had a unique aroma.
It's just that now people are pursuing a healthy diet, not only are there fewer shops that use lard to fry noodles, but even the fried noodles themselves are not common in the market. No wonder many people think that "Shanghai rough fry is not in Shanghai".
Still insisting on selling fried noodles, Rui Xinlin recommended three: Wufangzhai Main Store on Yunnan South Road, Another Village in Hongkou and Xinchuan Restaurant in Chuansha.
Among them, another village under the residential building is a long-established brand that began in 1953.
"This shop is a good preservation of the scale and layout of the Shanghai restaurant in the early years, and the snacks in the store cover almost half of the Shanghai snacks." Rui Xinlin said.
Another village of fried noodles in heavy oil
▼Click to watch▼
The fried noodles in the shop are made from the company's own rolled thick noodles, and the ingredients are shredded meat and chicken feathers.
"The key is to have a big fire, salt, monosodium glutamate, sugar, soy sauce, pepper and other condiments should be placed accurately." Gao Le, the manager of another village, said.
"Stir-fried to the back, the noodles are a little golden brown, and the aroma comes out."
■ The key to fried noodles is to have a strong head
Gao Le, 60 years old this year, came to work in the store on behalf of his mother at the age of 18, watching the gradual decline of fried noodles, and now the popularity is far inferior to that of cold noodles.
"In July and August, the business of Ala cold noodles was so good that it sold hundreds of catties a day. Fried noodles sell for more than 200 bowls a day (about 2 or 2 bowls a day). She gave a comparison of the numbers.
"People in the hotel refuse to fry, because the old annoyance, a trip up to two or three parts a stir-fry." Stir-fry the pot and have to be satisfied. ”
"But fried noodles are an old traditional snack. Stir-fried noodles, vegetable soup noodles, old Shanghainese people know, household names. Allah is an old shop and must be maintained after all. She said.
■ Although it is now less popular than cold noodles, fried noodles are still a well-known snack in Shanghai.
A fried noodle dish born in Shanghai has become a "representative of Shanghai cuisine" by constantly catering to the tastes of locals outside. However, the Shanghainese themselves may not have eaten for a long time.
"Blossom inside the wall and incense outside the wall", the chemistry of diet and people is really wonderful.
Perhaps, the next time a friend from Hong Kong or overseas comes to Shanghai, you can take them to eat a genuine "Shanghai coarse stir-fried".
Resources:
1. Ma Renwu, "Fried Noodles in Heavy Oil", Jiefang Daily, November 10, 1979.
2. Rui Xinlin, "The Taste of Snacks", Shanghai Culture Publishing House, July 2015, first edition.
3. Autumn Leaves Flying Up (Rui Xinlin), "Shanghai Fried Noodles", News Evening News, October 20, 2011
4. Zhang Benhou, "Shanghainese Don't Eat 'Shanghai Rough Fried'",Hong Kong Metropolis Daily, October 30, 2011.
5. Zhao Jikai, "Nostalgia for the "Iron Triangle Dim Sum Shop" on Xinzha Road", WeChat public account "Shanghai Laodizi", May 14, 2020.
－ END －
Writer: Han Xiaoni / Editor: Han Xiaoni /
Photo: Han Xiaoni / Video: Han Xiaoni /
Cut: Namo Win / Drawing: 2 Black /
Writing brush: Chen Dongni / Do picture: two black /
Namo Win: Chen is not fun/
All rights reserved, please do not reprint without permission
Please leave us a message to get content authorization
Source: Thoughtful