【Text/Baobinsky】
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"You used to line up here, but now it's quiet?"
"Well, isn't this "Sesame Alley" aired the other day?"
There is a counter in the supermarket in front of the house. The eldest sister thanked Teacher He Bing the other day, "Thanks, sell at least half a year's turnover a month." No this drama young people now who still see the day to eat pickles ah! ”
A recent TV series set in Beijing's hutongs and pickle gardens, Sesame Hutong, has set off a wave of pickle fever in Beijing
Indeed, it is past the age of "to relieve hunger, spicy and salty". But in the past, when the material was not abundant, there were seven things to open the door at home, chai rice oil salt sauce vinegar tea, and the imperial palace was no exception. In addition to the first two things, the cross-border field of pickles accounts for four and a half, which can be described as a value-added selection. No wonder that for the prototype of Qin Fangju in the play, Liu Biju Sauce Garden, the Qing Palace rewarded the top of the horse's coat and the waist card so that Long Live and Lafayette could eat this bite every day.
The prototype of Qinfangju in "Sesame Hutong" is the Liubiju Sauce Garden that began in the Qing Dynasty
At that time, there were countless sauce gardens in Beijing City, and there were many people who were earlier than Liubiju who started their own businesses during the Jiajing period. These six must-dwellings have not only become royal, but also grown healthily for five hundred years. The mystery is actually very simple, He Bing and Qian Bo two people old drama bone fighting method that episode is all clear: the treasurer listened to the old man called Hanako Laoyuan smelled out of the sauce of the soybeans is not from the highest quality origin, although the explanation is due to the war chaos can not be imported, still resolutely all down the drawer to feed the pigs, even if it is delayed for a whole year, but also to hire this fallen man. Take today's words: the spirit of the worker.
Although the "Qiupo Huang" of "the right to be used as grain in the cattle trough" is purely artistic fiction, the main ingredient for making sauce, "plump beans, oil race meat", is indeed true. In addition to making sauce, all kinds of dim sum snacks from Hebei Province, which originated in Hebei Province, are also given by this oil race meat.
Until now, the state-owned Liubiju has retained the ancestral rules of the time when the footwork was sufficient. Of course, the human flesh operation of washing the feet and stepping on the yellow in the play has long been replaced by mechanized large-scale production - but this formal progress is not necessarily a loss: the delicate gravity of the meat wrapped bone is comparable to that of the cold machine. The French wines sought after around the world still rely on the feet of strong men to step on the grapes, and no one questions whether it is unhygienic!
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Although until the Cultural Revolution, the red-topped horse coat was still treasured, and this "royal" six-biju was by no means a great unification. "Pickle pickles, Liu Biju emphasizes that the sauce is actually easy to handle, and the leek garden emphasizes the dishes in the pickles, which is more precious." It was an old artist of a certain genre who said this.
People who eat by their throats are most afraid of their throats, and this choice is still quite convincing. Auntie's troupe is known as the King of suburban counties, and the place where the old artists love to send plays to the countryside is Mentougou - every time they go, they have to try to turn to Leek Garden Village, load the pickle jars brought back by the car, stack up to catch up with the prop box.
Leek garden pickles
From this place name, we know that this village has historically been rich in vegetables. Wait until autumn, the pure natural organic vegetables watered by the mountain spring water in the mountainous areas of Jingxi are ripe, and they can be pickled; coarse salt grains, garlic, soy sauce, sugar, and white wine greet the jar together, listening to the soil, but it is a pure natural ancient method, absolutely no preservatives, not to mention, after a winter of pickling, this closed small cycle also allows all the nutrients of pickles to be absorbed by themselves.
This leek garden pickle also opened an online shop later, but it was always impossible to buy: the whole village could not produce a few tons of vegetables a year, and the pure handiwork could only produce five thousand altars a year. It wasn't until I went to the Ryoma Society to visit the class one year and ate a working meal with me that I ate the taste of déjà vu "pickled" back. Later, I found out that the founder Liu Heng's hometown is Mentougou, and every year people go back to live for half a year to find inspiration, and it is also considered to be close to the water building platform first.
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Many of my fathers belonged to the generation of "Changing 1977", and this group of people from all over the world, with common memories of university life, without exception, floated with the sauce of their classmates' hometowns - of course, it could not be expensive Maotai . The first time I went out, there were many people who didn't expect to bring enough winter clothes, but no one in the luggage forgot to stuff a few cans of pickles from their hometown.
In the era of scarcity, pickles are a must-have hometown flavor in the backpack of the wanderer
A stone's throw away from Beijing, the Huaimao pickles brought by the Baoding people are better than the different five-spiced mouths - by the way, Huaimao is the prototype of Kong's old idiot family in "Sesame Hutong", and in Baoding Sanbao's "Iron Ball Noodle Sauce Spring Is Not Old", this giant occupies two of them; and the Shandong classmates bring not Kongfu family wine and family banquets, but Kongfu family pickles - not only in the twenty-four dishes of the Confucius Manchu Han table, and like Liubiju and Huaimao, there are also red tops and horse coats given by Empress Dowager Cixi (this Lafayette is really enough to see the world).
Baoding Huaimao pickle factory brewing workshop
Don't look at the rich Jiangnan from time to time, but the pickles made over the years are not inferior to the north. For example, almost every township in the Taihu Lake Basin has its own well-known pickle and sauce garden, just like the proportion of local producers and academies.
Yangzhou three and four beautiful pickles are famous in Jiangnan
Although Yangzhou is called Northern Jiangsu by the Jiangnan people, the Huaiyang pickle led by "three and four beauty" is to make Japan's Nara pickle ("stain" that is, the Japanese Chinese character pickle meaning) are enshrined as Zhengshuo, "tofu pickle number Nara, from your country Yushengxiang" - so far many Dongying practitioners still offer the authentic image of the ancestors, but it always feels wrong: different from the Kyoto pickle based on the taste of soy sauce miso, the killer of Nara pickles is sake lees, but the master keeps the precepts very fast...
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Interestingly, there are rich and poor in the north and south of China's pickle territory, but almost without exception, the places where famous pickles are produced, at least in the province, are the homes of educated and well-read literati.
"The world's articles out of Zhejiang, Shaoxing is the most famous", and like the article, the extreme (qí) product (pā) of pickles is also produced here: a bowl of moldy dried vegetables and dried radish rice, eating or not eating, is the Ming and Qing dynasty staff Shi Ye Xingdang until the end of the Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Jin New Army. And what Li Niang can never forget is her Shaoxing roommate, it is the delicate and exquisite beautiful aunt, who carried a bag of her own moldy dried vegetable lard shortbread into the dormitory, and the whole house was smoked out.
Moldy dried vegetable shortbread is now a street food in southern cities
To say that the reason is also simple: agricultural society has always been a person who has left the countryside and is lowly, unless the level is rushed to enter the shi, and the pickles in the hometown in addition to the appetizing and relieving the taste of "near meat" and resisting the physiological and psychological effects of water and soil dissatisfaction, have saved the precious time of the students - the era of the imperial examination is a number room, eating and drinking Lasa self-care, even if it is the second generation of the official rich who usually eats gold and jade, dry food + pickles are also rational and optimal choices. In the "cheating" section of the China Imperial Examination Museum in Nanjing, the pickle jar has also become a tool for committing crimes with small copies.
But just as half of China's restaurants are Sichuan restaurants, the first army in China's pickle industry must also be the Sichuan army: not only water, salt, sauce, sugar, acid, brine, wine, bad... All kinds of techniques for making pickles are excellent, and people have long rushed out of Asia to the world, which is much better than Chinese football.
The most representative product in the Sichuan Army sauce is lao gan ma
As early as more than half a century before Lao Gan Ma has not yet become the dry mother of all Chinese students, Fuling squeezed vegetables have been welcomed by generations of old students of the Republic of China such as Ba Jin and Xu Beihong, in addition to "to relieve hunger, spicy and salty", the more realistic reason is naturally that the heavier the taste, the less afraid of spoiling.
Fuling squeezed vegetables were regarded by Chinese students as a gift to relieve hunger in a foreign land long before Lao Ganma
At a world pickle competition held in France in the 1970s, China's Fuling squeezed vegetables were listed as the three famous dishes along with sweet and sour cabbage from the Federal Republic of Germany and European sour cucumbers" (see Sichuan Daily, December 21, 1986, second edition, signed by reporter Zhang Li).
A friend is afraid to be uneven: this pickle is not to say that we invented it, and what dishes do we have to put it, are its taste, and actually can not be ranked in the world's top 3? In fact, it is really wronged: He Bing lamented in "Sesame Alley" that life is like this pickled pickle; speaking of people are more like us, I don't believe look at the successive presidents of friendly countries, don't care how different the path of birth is, the result...
Today's recommended article to everyone, from our good friend a large bite of food list (id: laiyidakou), people who know how to eat are all here! Gather the resources of Chinese gourmets to provide users with accurate and warm food lists and recommendations.