The tang dynasty folk tea drinking method, Lu Yu spent a considerable amount of time to record. Excerpt first, then comment.
The types of tea are coarse tea, loose tea, end tea, and cake tea. After knife splitting, soup boiling, fire roasting, stone pounding, put into the bottle, brewed with boiling water, this is called boiling tea. Or add shallots, ginger, dates, orange peel, cocoon, mint, etc., boil for a long time, stir the tea soup until it is thick and slippery, or cook it to foam, such a tea soup is tantamount to the wastewater in the ditch, but the custom of eating tea is just that!
"Guangya" said: "In Hubei and Chongqing, tea leaves are picked to make tea cakes, and the leaves are old, and after making tea cakes, they are soaked in rice soup. When you want to boil tea, first bake the tea cake, wait until it appears red, mash it into pieces, place it in porcelain, rinse into boiling water, and then put some green onions, ginger, and oranges together and fry. Drinking it can sober people up, make people excited, do not want to sleep. ”
Guo Pu's "Erya Notes" said: "Tea trees are as small as gardenias, and the leaves that grow in winter can be boiled and drunk." Now the ones picked in the morning are called 'tea', the ones picked in the evening are called 'tea', and some are called 'Tsuen', and the people of Shudi call it 'bitter dips'. ”
"Tong Junlu": "People in Xiyang, Wuchang, Lujiang, Xiling and other places like to drink tea, and the master's family drinks tea." Tea has a feast, and drinking it is good for people. Most of the plants that can be used as drinks use its leaves, but Tianmendong uses its roots, which is also good for people. There is real tea in Padang, and I can't sleep after drinking too much. Locals are accustomed to boiling sandalwood leaves and large soap plum leaves as tea to drink, refreshing the mouth. In addition, there is a melon reed tree in the south, its leaves are a little larger, also like tea, bitter and astringent, made into crumb tea, drink can also stay up all night, people who cook salt rely on drinking this. Jiaozhou and Guangzhou attach great importance to this tea, guests come, first use it to entertain, but also add some spices. ”
Lu Yu's great place is that the record is clear, there is a certain tea in a certain place, a certain tea has a certain drinking method, we read it today, just like walking into the Tang Dynasty tea drinking map, you can smell the tea fragrance.
The tea drink that Fan Yu saw in Yunnan in the Tang Dynasty was: "Tea comes out of the mountains of Yinsheng City boundary." Scattered harvesting, no mining method. Mengshe man drank it with pepper, ginger, cinnamon and cooking. ”
This nutritious feast of tea, ginger, pepper, gui (and other plants) super combination, is now called "Thunder Tea" (from the sound) and "Oil Tea" (from the material) in Yunnan, "Canned Tea" (from the tool) in Kang County, Gansu Province, Luoyang, Shaanxi and Xihaigu in Ningxia, and "Huang Cha" (from tools and procedures) in Guangdong, Fujian and Hunan, becoming the history of tea drinking.
Pickled tea, first introduce the production method of the Dehong Deang people. First wash the fresh leaves with water, wash off the dust on the surface of the fresh leaves, and then lose 20% or 30% of the water through the sun, and then knead the tea juice. If there is no sunlight, put the fresh leaves directly into the pot and steam, when the buds are soft and yellow, the pot is poured on the bamboo curtain, and then rubbed by hand. When marinating tea, spread out the fresh leaves with bamboo dustpans, rub them slightly, then mix well with chili peppers, salt and sesame oil, and then put them into bamboo tubes or jars. The pickled and packed fresh tea leaves are tightly scooped in layers with wooden scoops, and then the cylinder mouth is covered tightly, or tightly stuffed with bamboo leaves. Sealed fresh tea leaves generally must be left to stand for two or three months, until the tea leaves ferment yellow, or appear golden yellow, and emit a unique tea flavor, the tea is pickled, you can split the bamboo tube. Next, the pickled tea is taken out of the tube, placed in a bowl or crock pot, and taken as you eat. This is similar to making pickled vegetables such as pickled radish.
The bamboo tube sour tea made by the old Man'e Brown tribe is similar in procedure. To pick fresh leaves, you must choose fresh leaves that are older, and you must choose the fresh leaves of the sweet tea varieties of the old Man'e, which is more suitable for people's daily consumption. After the fresh leaves are picked, first dry naturally, there can be no dew, and then boil thoroughly with boiling water, cook a little properly, fish out of the pot, the same requires natural cooling, can not have heat. In this way, the tea leaves can be packed into the bamboo tube, and put them inside layer by layer until they are filled and filled tightly, and there can be no gaps in it, and then the mouth of the bamboo tube is sealed well, and it cannot be breathed. A bamboo tube of sour tea can hold about 3 kg of fresh leaves. After waiting for three or four months, the brown sour tea can be taken out and eaten directly. The people of Lao Man'e used to eat sour tea as a snack, and now they eat it as a pickle.
At the same time, sour tea also had the effect of medicine in the old days. In an era when medicines and even doctors were scarce, when people were injured, they would chew up the fresh leaves of tea leaves and apply them to the wound. At the same time, the local elderly also use tea as a refreshing medicine, the Buddhist temple in the holding of The Buddha activities, will arrange special people to the elderly (in the Buddhist temple to listen to the Buddhist scriptures are mostly the elderly, young people to work) pour tea, play a refreshing role, to avoid the elderly heat stroke, drowsiness. And this well-made bamboo tube sour tea, in this area, in the daily life of the Brown people also has the role of tea ceremony, and is too important to replace, can not be omitted, it plays an important role in the marriage of the old Man'e. On the wedding day, the groom must prepare a tube of sour tea, a basket of tobacco (woolly tobacco), two kilograms of meat, five kilograms of rice, a bag of salt and a little bride price (milk bill) to the bride's house. For sour tea prepared for marriage, the oldest tea leaves (the fresh leaves of the oldest tea tree) must be used when choosing the fresh leaves of the tea leaves.
The bamboo tube sour tea of lao Man'e, that is, the "tea ceremony" that Xu Cishu said disappeared in the Ming Dynasty. "After eating my tea, it's my man." Songs from the Southern Song Dynasty are still sung in Yunnan.
In 2010, I went to Luoyang, Shaanxi Province, to investigate, and the local area is still selling a tea that has no tea leaves at all, called "pole tea", which is the branches and tea stems. The fellow bought it back to boil cans of tea, not bitter, but also sweet.
Kang County, Gansu Province, across the river from Luoyang and Luoyang in Shaanxi, is very popular for noodle tea. In addition to tea leaves, but also add salt, peppercorns, fennel, green onions, put in flour and stir well, and then put the jar on the fire to slow boil, cook well and pour into the bowl, and then add eggs, diced tofu, diced potatoes, walnut kernels, the most important thing is not less oil residue, noodle tea is actually a delicacy. The best noodle tea is three levels, a bowl of noodle tea, the upper layer floating eggs, green onions, oil residue, the middle layer suspended walnut kernels, the lower layer of diced tofu, diced potatoes. Now Kang County already has a special canned tea training hall, tea drinking is a big thing, can not be abolished.
Lu Yu advocated clear drinking because the onions in the mixed drink belonged to the genus of five spices that were not advocated in the temple, and drinking was a big taboo. The clear drink advocated by the senior monks of the monastery further influenced the scholars, and later became popular among the scholars. Many people commented that Lu Yu despised mixed drinking because they did not know much about the diet of the temple.
However, as far as today's world tea map is concerned, it seems to be the world of mixed drinking methods now. From Yunnan, Tibet to Xinjiang, Inner Mongolia, the three eastern provinces, most of the places are mixed drinking, adding milk, adding salt, adding sugar, starting from the United Kingdom, the black tea area, is also based on milk, sugar mixed drinking, the younger generation is more fans of milk tea, but the drink is only concentrated in a few areas where green tea consumption is the mainstay. Suzhou and Hangzhou, which are mainly based on the drinking method, have shaped the Qinqi calligraphy and painting poetry wine tea since the Ming and Qing dynasties, and the mixed drinking area is the real chai rice oil salt sauce vinegar tea.
There are many nationalities in our country, and the tea drinking method is also very different, and tea drinking reflects the culture of all ethnic groups.
The new tea that prevails today, said to be the national style, has a long heritage.
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