▲ The car noodles that frequently appear on the streets of Guangdong, Hong Kong and Macao. Photography / Brother Alan 102, Photo / Figureworm Creative
-Fengwujun Language-
Cantonese people said
"I'll cook a bowl of noodles for you to eat"
amount
"I love you"
In the matter of eating noodles, the temperament displayed by people in the north and south is completely different -
Northerners eat noodles, pay attention to the big opening and closing, break a head of garlic, on the noodle soup, bury the face into the bowl, tear, fight hard, the momentum is like "the water of the Yellow River from the sky"; in the south, the noodles become gentle and delicate, the taste is light, as smooth as silk, and the style can be described as "fine water and long flow".
▲ Shaanxi people's "big bowl of lasagna". Figure/Figureworm Creative
Southerners eat noodles, and the essence lies in the delicate toppings. In the south, noodles appear more as dim sum, and because of this "not for the stomach" secondary, southerners spend more time on the taste of noodles, making a bowl of noodles more delicate and novel.
The Cantonese people, known as "southerners in the south", have brought the fine creativity of the noodles to the extreme - wonton noodles as thin as silver wire, shrimp noodles that are as fresh as eyebrows, Meizhou pickled noodles with oily and sweet, and Chaoshan raw fried noodles that are sweet and salty... Whether in Cantonese, Chaoshan or Hakka culture, a bowl of noodles is a lingering nostalgia.
▲ Meizhou pickled noodles. Photography/huangcvn, photo/market map network
Every bowl of noodles served to the Table of Cantonese people can subvert our understanding of southern food.
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="52" > wonton noodles, the light of the southern side! </h1>
It's hard not to be impressed by the silver noodles that are tough and elastic, the white powdery wontons, and the fresh broth soup base, which blend into a noodle bowl like an invasion of the tip of the tongue and taste buds.
It's unreasonable, but it's beautiful.
▲ Just like the encounter between Su Lizhen and Zhou Muyun in the movie "Fancy Years", it is so beautiful. The incubator contained a serving of wonton noodles for two people to share. Photo: "Fancy Years"
The silver wire noodles used in wonton noodles are mostly used by Guangzhou people to raise bamboo noodles. This noodle mixes medium and high gluten flour and lye water in proportion to the noodles, and then uses pure duck eggs and noodles without adding a drop of water - which makes the noodles achieve a primary elasticity. A more critical step is at the back: manually pressing the bamboo pole and squeezing the dough back and forth to bounce.
▲ Fresh noodle soup is a bowl of wonton noodles. Photography / dashiyiyuan, photo / figure worm · creative
It's a purely technical job and inefficient, but it's worth it after tasting it. The squeezed noodles of alkaline duck eggs are different from the "biting strength" of the northern noodles, and in addition to being elastic, tough and slippery, they also show a taste that can be called "crisp", which is wonderful.
In the wonton noodles, the delicate wonton is the protagonist. There are two kinds of fillings in wonton, one is pure pork filling, also called "big rong", which is large and full to eat; the other is smaller and adds complete shrimp to the filling, called "fine paste". "Da Rong" is made to fill the stomach; "Fine Rong" is usually small and delicate.
▲ In the wonton, there is a large shrimp! Photo/Visual China
"Fine Rong" uses the method of wrapping small wontons in Jiangsu and Zhejiang, dragging out a large tail behind the plump filling, falling into the pot and boiling, quite like a goldfish swimming, but also like a hibiscus flowering. Topped with pork bones, earth fish, shrimp, ham and other ingredients, the noodle soup is elegant and brown, and the taste is also quite delicious, with a faint sea flavor.
A bowl of wonton noodles on the table, the noodles are thin and crisp, the wonton is fresh and fragrant, the soup base is sweet and delicious, the so-called "soup fresh noodles are cool wonton", that's it.
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="52" > chezai noodles, eat is happy! </h1>
"The most important thing about being a person is to be happy... Are you hungry or not? I cook a bowl of noodles for you to eat? ”
In TVB Hong Kong dramas, if there is a bridge section of "cooking noodles for you to eat", between the hero and heroine, about Mo is with some warm feelings. In Guangdong, noodles are not only a carbohydrate to soothe hunger, but also a good medicine for the soul to be proper and smooth. The chezai noodles that cure all diseases in the TV series should be regarded as the most popular and humane noodles.
▲ The car boy noodles that frequently appear in Hong Kong dramas. Photography / Brother Alan 102, Photo / Figureworm Creative
Che Zai noodles, also known as "Cha-chi noodles", originated in Hong Kong. In the past, hawkers pushed stalls to sell "chezai noodles" on the street, in addition to the pot for boiling noodles, there were also grids for boiling fish eggs, pig skins, pig blood, turnips, vegetables and other side dishes, and customers could choose according to their own preferences. Because it is fast and low, it has become a daily choice for working people.
In Zhou Xingchi's movie "God of Food", there is a shot of the god of food sitting on the street eating car noodles after falling, he sat in front of the stall and complained that "fish eggs have neither fish flavor nor curry taste, radish has not picked too many tendons, pork skin is too soft and elastic, and pigs are scattered when they are sandwiched", which is exactly the status of a bowl of car noodles.
▲ Car noodles with pork chops. Photography / Brother Alan 102, Photo / Figureworm Creative
Today's "Chezai noodles" are not exclusive to the down-and-out people, but have become one of the symbols of Cantonese noodle culture, and tea restaurants, convenience stores, and large restaurants have a place for Chezai noodles. But people's favorite thing is to sit in the most down-to-earth shop on the street and eat a bowl of chezai noodles.
A bowl fell on the stomach, the fireworks of the world came to the face, and the memories of those teenagers also came to mind.
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="52" > Chaoshan raw fried noodles, the taste is a little sweet</h1>
The Chaoshan region in northeastern Guangdong Province is a treasure trove of food, where people have invented the sweet and salty fried noodles.
The most charming thing about the Chaoshan people's fried noodles is the thin wok when it is served, which can usually be done by stir-frying with heavy oil. But Chaoshan fried noodles do not use oil.
▲ In the Cantonese diet code, "wok gas" is very critical. Photography / XINstare, Photo / MarketMap Network
Some areas of Chaoshan make fried noodles, using "Yi noodles". What is Imi? It is a noodle cake made by frying eggs and thin noodles, which is the predecessor of instant noodles. Since the noodles are round noodle cakes that have been fixed, so before frying the noodles, the pot is heated extremely hot, heating water or broth, using water vapor to break up the noodles, and then adding bean sprouts, leeks and other accessories, and then continuing to fry quickly, the whole process does not put a drop of oil, but there is a moist wok gas.
▲ The most essential place of Chaoshan raw fried noodles is to eat it dipped in sesame white sugar. Photography/Toto
The essence of the noodles is that before the fried noodles come out of the pot, they are accompanied by a bowl of sesame seeds and sugar condiments, which can be directly sprinkled on the noodles or dipped in. Salty fried noodles, accompanied by sweet sesame white sugar, a mouth is the aroma of carbs after roasting, and then the sweetness of white sugar, sesame crisp, this taste is clearly layered, but also not at all contradictory.
This kind of fried noodles in Chaozhou can be put on the hall. Whether it is marrying a daughter-in-law or a shangliang wine banquet, in some areas of Chaoshan Province, this fried noodle must be used as a finishing touch. In a bowl of noodles, there is the power of tradition.
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="52" > Meizhou pickled noodles, the nostalgia of the Hakka people</h1>
"Boss, a pickled noodle, add soup!"
This is the most common scene in the early morning in Meizhou, Guangdong: in a small shop that looks shabby, the noodle pot grunts and boils and sings, a piece of noodles rises with the water vapor, and the aroma of lard, garlic and sauce floats out... A bowl of simple-looking "pickled noodles" is the deepest nostalgia in the hearts of Meizhou people.
▲ A bowl of Meizhou pickled noodles. Photography / ZRP5211, photo / market map network
The "pickle" of pickled noodles is a Hakka word meaning "mixing". The so-called pickled noodles, that is, mixed noodles - raw noodles are cooked in a pot, drained, and then added lard, fried garlic, salt, minced meat and mixed, and the trick that makes Meizhou people want to stop is hidden in these mixtures.
Cantonese people are mostly heavy lovers of lard, this Meizhou pickled noodles added lard, is each store according to their own recipe into the shacha sauce or chili sauce and other made, fried garlic golden transparent, minced meat in place, the last spoonful of noodle sauce with lard, "pickled" out of the infinite style.
However, as delicate as Guangdong, how can it be just pickled noodles? Pickled noodles must be served with soup.
▲ A bowl of "three and first soup", wishing the students to climb the subject and the title of the first and gold lists. Photography / CGJIN, Picture / Figure Worm ・ Creative
"Three and first soups" are the fixed combination of pickled noodles. The main ingredients of the soup are pork, pork liver, pork powder intestines, plus goji berry leaves cooked, pork offal and pork must be fresh and properly handled; goji leaves are crisp and crisp, with the green and slightly bitter of wild vegetables, just with the thick taste of pork offal to complement each other.
The name of "and the first soup" is a good omen for "Dengke and the first", the so-called "one bowl of three and the first, the top three in the temple examination", even now, the students in Meizhou will drink a large bowl of pleased heads before the big exam.
- END -
Text | Sweet
Text Editing | September
Picture Editing | Wong Kar Lok
Covered | Figureworms and ideas
One of the most memorable times you can remember
Who cooks the noodles for you?