On August 31, 2021, the Zhejiang Provincial Party Committee held a high-level cultural work conference, emphasizing that Song Yun culture is an important cultural symbol with Chinese style and Zhejiang recognition, and proposed to implement the "Song Yun Culture Inheritance Project".
Song Yun relics, everywhere. From now on, the Zhejiang news client launched the "Song Dynasty You Don't Know" column to unveil a corner of this history.
"When is the moon?" Ask the wine to qingtian. "Chinese wine culture has a long history, reaching a peak in the Song Dynasty. In the famous "Qingming River Map", there is a lively picture of the people of the Song Dynasty selling wine and drinking freely in the street.
Jiang Liang, secretary general of the Zhejiang Southern Song Dynasty Food Culture Research Institute and special lecturer of the Hangzhou Labor Model Craftsman College, told us that the winemaking industry in the Song Dynasty was unprecedentedly prosperous, and the liquor tax became an important part of the national tax, from the imperial court to the rural rice wine, the winemaking workshops were dotted with nearly 300 kinds of wine, and a systematic theory was formed on the basis of rich practice.
Wu Song drank no more than 20 degrees of wine
After drinking, you can also beat tigers
From the book "Beishan Wine Classic" at the end of the Northern Song Dynasty, we can understand that the winemaking process of the Song Dynasty is: lying pulp, panning rice, frying pulp, tommy, steamed vinegar elk, with koji, he fermented rice, fermented rice, steamed sweet elk, wine vessel, trough, wine collection, boiling wine. It can be seen that the wine manufacturing industry in the Song Dynasty has reached a fairly fine level of craftsmanship.
However, the distilled liquor of the mainland did not begin to appear until the Yuan Dynasty, and the Song Dynasty brewed wine, with a maximum height of no more than 20 degrees, close to modern rice wine. Some scholars have researched that Wu Song drank 18 bowls in Jingyang Gang, which is probably this kind of wine, and he can also fight tigers after drinking. In the Song Dynasty, rice wine, medicinal wine, and fruit wine were all popular. For example, the great poet Lu You loves to drink wine, and the great scholar Su Shi has a special love for yellow citrus wine, and ordinary people usually drink and brew rice wine.
If the "Beishan Wine Classic" is a model for expounding the winemaking technology of large-scale winemaking workshops, then Su Shi's "Dongpo Wine Classic" is a masterpiece that describes family winemaking: "The wine that brews for a long time is mellow and rich, and the fast one is the opposite, so my wine is made in 30 days." ”
Lo and behold, it takes a month to brew three buckets and a half rice wine, this great literary hero really knows how to enjoy life, he "leans down to himself, gets the wine poetry to become his own", the stirring and unrestrained haoran literary atmosphere, also under the action of wine, from the heart.
The Emperor of the Song Dynasty personally wrote the edict
Implement a liquor tax contracting system
Why was wine so popular during the Song Dynasty? In the final analysis, it comes from the state system.
Jiang Liang introduced that the liquor tax was an important source of financial revenue for the Song Dynasty, and the rulers put forward the policy of "trying to persuade people to drink in order to enrich the national treasury." In the early Northern Song Dynasty, the imperial court was very strict in the production and sales of liquor, and private wine was not allowed, and if the private self-made wine koji exceeded 5 kilograms, it would be sentenced to death, and later relaxed to 15 kilograms of private self-made wine koji and sentenced to capital punishment. With the recovery of the economy and the development of production, the policy on wine has gradually relaxed.
In the Northern Song Dynasty, except for the levy of liquor taxes on Fujian Road, Liangguang Road, and Feizhou Road, private wine was allowed to be made and sold elsewhere. However, the sake koji that is brewed is made by the official government's Toku-in Temple, and the sake brewer can only make sake if he buys the koji. Kyoto and other prefectures have government-run liquor-selling establishments that are both sake-making workshops and direct liquor sellers.
In the fifth year of Tiansheng (1027), Emperor Renzong of Song issued an edict against the liquor tax: If the Alum Tower Hotel was willing to buy and sell the liquor at the store, it was ordered to allocate 3,000 households in the small household of the Jingjiao shop to sell liquor at the store every day. It can be seen that at that time, the capital city of Kaifeng, which came from the north, already had a liquor tax contracting system, that is, after a person bought the liquor tax in a certain area, he became a regional agent, and he could monopolize the liquor profits here, and other small hotels became its vassals.
We can see from Wu Zimu's "Record of Mengliang" and the elaborate "Chronicle of Wulin" that the Southern Song Dynasty created an official liquor storehouse sponsored by the Hubu and managed by the army. According to the literature, in the tenth year of Shaoxing (1140), there were only more than ten official liquor stores in Lin'an, of which the liquor depots in Lin'an Province were operated by the Dianqian Division, and the other places were managed by the garrison. Ten years later, there were nearly seventy wineries in the front of the temple, and the number of points under them was innumerable, as were the private wineries.
How intoxicating does Song wine taste?
"Blue Bridge Wind Moon" has a floral fragrance
Speaking of a thousand ways and ten thousand, Song wine more than 800 years ago, how does it taste?
This question was thrown out, and Jiang Liang smiled: "There are many sub-categories of Song wine, more than 100 kinds, including Qiong crisp wine, Yaochi wine, Yingyu wine, snow bubble plum blossom wine, etc. From the name, the taste is rich in layers, and even there is a floral fragrance." As the protector and inheritor of the cultural heritage of Chinese red yeast wine and Southern Song Dynasty wine, in fact, my team and I have been trying to 'reproduce' the taste of Song wine over the years. ”
Jiang Liang's team visited a large number of Song history experts, archaeologists, went to many museums, and also went to neighboring countries to find the sake craft passed down during the Tang and Song dynasties, and finally locked in several keywords: raw materials, wine songs and flowers, and named the replica Song wine "Blue Bridge Wind Moon", which is one of the 54 famous wines of the Southern Song Dynasty recorded in the "Record of Dreams" and "Wulin Old Things", which was brewed by Empress Wu's mother's house Wu Fu of Emperor Gaozong zhao of the Song Dynasty, and there was a saying of "Blue Bridge Wind Moon Out of Wu House" at that time.
In the "Water Margin" "Xunyang Lou Song Jiang Yin Anti-Poetry Liangshan Bo Daizong Passed on False Letters", Song Jiang also drank this wine: "Song Jiang only drank one or two cups of 'Blue Bridge Wind Moon', he did not feel drunk, and after drinking a few more cups, he felt overjoyed, and Wu Zi went wild, riding on the wine, splashing ink ..."
Jiang Liang said: "'Blue Bridge Wind Moon' is actually a category of yellow wine, called plum blossom wine in the Southern Song Dynasty, which is brewed with root mold white medicine and red yeast, because the wine is integrated with plum blossom fragrance, and the wine is not close to the lips plum fragrance, which is particularly elegant." We combine contemporary winemaking experience, together with agronomist Dr. Wang Cailin to explore, what kind of rice is most suitable for winemaking, try to use the tiger running cold spring as brewing water, and brew wine in the fragrance of flowers, obtained a national patent, the current 'Blue Bridge Wind Moon' series brewing process has been successfully declared intangible cultural heritage. ”
"I was afraid that the birds would whisker feathers, and the blue bridge would forget the wind and the moon." The taste of Song Yun, in the fragrance of flowers and wine, is immersed in our ordinary life...