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"Sun Moonlight Hua - Jiangxi Provincial Museum collection of Ming Dynasty Princess Jewelry Exhibition" is being exhibited in the Shanghai Fengxian District Museum, in the exhibition of many jewelry, in addition to our familiar hair ornaments, earrings, wrist jewelry and other categories, there are many applied to clothing, one of which is a type of jewelry, in the Ming Dynasty began to prevail, that is, made of gold, jade materials of the mother-daughter buckle, that is, we see from the exhibition hall of those different sizes, exquisite and chic buttons.
The development of buttons
The emergence and use of buttons is closely related to the development of ancient Chinese costumes. The clothes of the ancients were originally unbuttoned, but were fixed with ropes or cloth tie knots. Therefore, people call the cloth belt tied to the placket on the clothes "紷", and the loose knot connected with the cloth belt is called "button". During the Qin and Han Dynasties, a convenient and practical fastener appeared on people's clothes - the fold, which was considered to be the bud of the button. However, this kind of clothing was only used in the uniforms of soldiers at that time, and was not popularized into daily clothing.
The one-line placket on the chest of the Terracotta Warriors of Qin Shi Huang
The earliest fabric buttons found in China are on the Tang Dynasty Great Song Green Aya robe collected by Shosoin in Japan. Since the middle of the Tang Dynasty, the disc buckle has been widely used in round-necked robes.
Japanese Shosoin Collection Tang Dynasty Great Song Green Aya Robe
Women's tunics were udded with gold, jade, or gold inlaid with precious buttons, a custom that began in the Ming Dynasty. The emergence of this metal zimu buckle changed the traditional Hanfu habit of using a single front placket knot for thousands of years. The use of these buttons is closely related to the style of women's clothing in the Ming Dynasty, when wearing a vertical collar and a large red jacket, only two pairs or a pair of buttons are embellished on the collar, and the placket is still tied with a tie; when wearing a short jacket, the placket is generally embellished with five pairs of buttons, if there is a vertical collar, the collar is embellished with two pairs.
Large silk jacket with a vertical collar
Empress Ming Xiaojing embroidered the Hundred Zi Dress
(Placket short jacket style)
This set of gem-encrusted butterfly love flower gilts in the exhibition hall is the leader in the Ming Dynasty buckle. Their owner is the princess Wan of Zhu Houye, the king of Yizhuang, and each pair of buckles is composed of a combination of a pair of buckles and buckles; although the material is silver gilded, the buttons are inlaid with a jewel and become a chrysanthemum flower, which is made into a blooming chrysanthemum, and after two pairs of buckles, it is in the shape of a double butterfly play chrysanthemum. The feet at both ends of the fold and buckle are butterfly-shaped, and there are 5 jewel holders on the back of the butterfly, the larger one in the middle is a sapphire, and there are 2 jewel holders on each side of the wings, most of which are rubies. The butterfly wings are embellished with two needle eyes on both sides, and the shape of the butterfly love flower looks lifelike and exquisite.
Butterfly love flower gilt gold and silver buckle
Gemstone setting
In the Ming Dynasty, the production of gold and jade buttons was usually based on the material and the shape was set. Round clasps are commonly found as plum blossoms, chrysanthemums, peonies, lotuses, etc. The tethers on both sides of the ring take the image of animals, one pair of two, butterflies, bees, mandarin ducks and so on. Such a pair of button shapes, or butterflies love flowers, or double bees picking flowers, or Mandarin ducks to lotuses, full of life interest, sending auspicious happiness.
When Feng Menglong commented on "Hanging Branches" in the Ming Dynasty, he once sang: "Buttons, the marriage of the make-up is good." You catch me, I catch you, two arms firmly, forming a pair to rely on each other. "It can be seen that the button is also a beautiful emotional symbol!
Come to the Fengbo Exhibition Hall and see how the square-inch buttons interpret the ultimate aesthetic and life taste of the Ming Dynasty!
Source: Fengxian District Museum
Editor: Wang Peng
Source: Shanghai Fengxian
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Fengxian Technology