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At the end of the day, haute couture watches are meant to please themselves

author:Watch world

When it comes to fine watches, perhaps the first thing that comes to mind are the big names that have their own shining aura. In fact, there are some treasure-level brands at the tip of the pyramid in the watch industry, but they are more low-key and introverted.

Parmigiani from Fleurier, Switzerland, is one such brand.

In China, Parmigiani is a bit niche, but its grade is quite high, basically the same level as big names such as Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin.

Unlike these long-established brands, Parmigiani is still "young" and has only been around for 26 years. You may think, this brand history is so short, not too famous, what is the level of watchmaking?

At the end of the day, haute couture watches are meant to please themselves

Parmigiani Tonda PF watch

Today, let's take a closer look at Parmigiani.

Some watch brands are founders who are businessmen and are really good at business, but they don't know anything about watchmaking. The founder of Parmigiani, Mr. Michel Parmigiani, is a genius watchmaker and restoration master.

I had the privilege of meeting Mr. Parmigiani several times. If I hadn't known in advance that he was a watchmaker, I would have thought he was a scholar or a professor.

The mild-mannered Mr. Parmagiani is a man of firm and indomitable heart. Let's travel back in time to the 1970s. At that time, due to the influence of quartz watches, a large number of Swiss watch factories closed their doors, and it was generally believed that mechanical watches had no future.

At the end of the day, haute couture watches are meant to please themselves

Parmigiani CEO Guido Terreni (left) and Parmigiani Founder Mr. Parmagiani (right)

In such an era when mechanical watches were "fatally" hit, Mr. Parmigiani did not change his profession or turn to quartz watches, but resolutely set up a studio to engage in antique watch restoration. In his spare time, he devoted his passion to the production of mechanical watches.

Later, with the support of the Sandus Family Foundation, Mr. Parmigiani founded the eponymous brand Parmigiani in 1996. It can be said that from the very beginning, Parmigiani has been a brand that is particularly good at watchmaking.

Last year, Guido Terreni, who was managing director of Bulgari's watch division, officially joined Parmigiani as CEO.

The first big thing Terreni did when he took office was the launch of the new Tonda PF series. The birth of this series coincides with the 25th anniversary of the advent of Parmigiani, which is a "generous gift" to pay tribute to the brand's 25th anniversary.

At the end of the day, haute couture watches are meant to please themselves

Tonda PF micro oscillating weight steel

So, for Parmigiani, Tonda PF has a special meaning. The other day, I just had the opportunity to get in touch with the tonda PF.

After watching it, the overall feeling is: Tonda PF has distinctive characteristics and exquisite details, which is suitable for high-end watches with formal wear and casual.

This series all adopts an integrated bracelet, which functions from the basic two-hand, to chronograph, annual calendar, and double-second split-second chronograph, and the style is relatively rich.

At the end of the day, haute couture watches are meant to please themselves

Tonda PF micro oscillating weight in rose gold

The base of the Tonda PF is the two-pin Tonda PF micro oscillating weight. It was innovated while retaining parmiliani's classic style.

In particular, I would like to say that although Parmigiani is still very young, it has reached a height that many centuries-old brands may not have reached. It is one of the very few high-end watchmaking brands in the industry with comprehensive watchmaking capabilities. Parmigiani's five workshops are able to manufacture cases, dials and movements independently.

At the end of the day, haute couture watches are meant to please themselves

Parmigiani has a strong watchmaking prowess

Therefore, when you hold the Tonda PF micro oscillating weight in your hand, you can feel the strong watchmaking strength of this brand, which is completely different from the so-called haute watchmaking brands that have purchased a large number of parts and assembled them.

There are two Tonda PF micro oscillating weights, $175,000 in stainless steel and $414,000 in rose gold. Both watches have a diameter of 40 mm, which is also the more mainstream size at present.

They are very own design style of the table, just look at it, you know that this is Parmigiani, you can't go wrong.

At the end of the day, haute couture watches are meant to please themselves
At the end of the day, haute couture watches are meant to please themselves

Luxury goods differ from consumer goods, in addition to the material materials, a big difference is in the detail process.

The Tonda PF micro oscillating weight has put a lot of thought into the details. Its style is subtle and not ostentatious, like a good pot of tea, we need to calm down and taste slowly, so that you can feel the long tea aroma and charm.

The watch is equipped with a knurled bezel. The stainless steel version features a platinum knurled bezel and rose gold with a rose gold knurled bezel.

At the end of the day, haute couture watches are meant to please themselves

The Tonda PF micro oscillating weight is stainless steel with a platinum knurled bezel

This knurled bezel, at first glance, looks a bit like a "dog tooth ring", but it is more delicate than the "dog tooth ring" and has a better texture.

The dial of the watch is extremely simple and distinctive. It provides a calendar display based on meeting our basic reading needs for our daily wear.

The combination of two stitches with a calendar is also different from many high-end watches with large three-pin or small three-pin on the market, forming a differentiated route.

At the end of the day, haute couture watches are meant to please themselves

Some details of the hands and dial

The hands still use Parmigiani's signature triangular hands, but they are cutout for a more ethereal and elegant feel. Both steel and rose gold are paired with gold hands.

The dial is decorated with a distinctive barley grain cutout. This ornament is small and delicate, exquisite craftsmanship, and very attractive. The two letters of PF at dial 12 are located in the oval outer ring. Both the PF letters and the outer ring have been polished with extremely fine chamfers.

At the end of the day, haute couture watches are meant to please themselves

My hands-on effect

In my opinion, the Tonda PF micro oscillating weight is a slim watch that is more suitable for daily wear. Although it is thin, it does not pursue the ultimate thinness, but fully takes into account the balance of thickness and practicality.

The thickness of the whole watch is only 7.8 mm, and it feels quite comfortable when trying it on. It is powered by Parmigiani's own PF703 self-winding calibre, which is 3 mm thick and thinner than most automatic movements on the market.

The reason is that it does not use the usual large oscillating weight, but is equipped with a small pearl top. The pearl top is "embedded" in the movement, which effectively reduces the thickness.

Both steel and rose gold models are equipped with a platinum pearl top, which is also decorated with barley grain cutout. From this we can see the thickness of Parmigiani.

At the end of the day, haute couture watches are meant to please themselves

PF703 self-winding calibre

The movement has undergone a high level of polishing, and the chamfering of the edge of the splint is also in place, which is more in line with the positioning of the Parmigiani Haute Horlogerie brand.

You may think that a haute couture watch like the Tonda PF micro oscillating weight has a more general waterproof performance, on the contrary, Parmigiani specially equipped the Tonda PF micro oscillating weight with a screw-in crown, so its water resistance reaches 100 meters.

In fact, this time, Tonda PF's entire series of watches, waterproof to 100 meters. We can feel the full sincerity of the brand and the product strength of Tonda PF.

In addition to the Tonda PF micro oscillating weight, other Tonda PF series watches are also outstanding.

At the end of the day, haute couture watches are meant to please themselves

Tonda PF Annual Calendar watch rose gold

The Tonda PF Annual Calendar and the Tonda PF Chronograph are available in steel and rose gold versions.

Compared with the common annual calendar watches, the Tonda PF annual calendar watch is special in that it sets February to 29 days by default. So in leap years we don't need to adjust the calendar, and in the usual year, we only need to adjust once in March.

The Tonda PF Annual Calendar also features a double moon phase display in the north and south hemispheres. This moon phase is extremely precise, requiring only one adjustment every 122 years.

At the end of the day, haute couture watches are meant to please themselves

The Tonda PF Annual Calendar has a double moon phase display in the north and south hemispheres

The Tonda PF Annual Calendar is 42 mm in diameter and costs $290,000 in stainless steel and $589,000 in rose gold.

The Tonda PF Chronograph is equipped with the brand's own PF070 high-frequency automatic chronograph movement. This is an integrated automatic chronograph movement, that is to say, the movement is considered as a chronograph movement when designed, not the kind of chronograph movement that is superimposed on the basic movement.

Anyone who knows a little bit about the table knows how difficult it is to develop an integrated automatic chronograph movement. If in order to save trouble, Parmigiani can add modules to the base movement and become a chronograph movement, so the cost will be much lower. But Parmigiani has always pursued excellence, it did not take shortcuts, but to face the difficulties, solid efforts in research and development.

At the end of the day, haute couture watches are meant to please themselves
At the end of the day, haute couture watches are meant to please themselves

Tonda PF chronograph rose gold front and back

Therefore, PF070 is a "pure pedigree", exquisitely crafted chronograph movement, and its vibration frequency reaches 5 Hz, which means that the timing accuracy is higher and the movement's resistance to external interference is stronger. $235,000 for steel and $534,000 for rose gold.

To say that the "ceiling" of the Tonda PF series is not the Tonda PF double seconds split-second chronograph. This watch is limited to 25 pieces.

At the end of the day, haute couture watches are meant to please themselves

Limited to 25 pieces, Tonda PF split seconds chronograph

The bi-seconds split-hand chronograph is the pinnacle of chronograph, and in order to highlight the status of this watch, Parmigiani specially equipped it with a platinum case and bracelet, and even the dial material is platinum.

At the end of the day, haute couture watches are meant to please themselves

PF361 rose gold hand-wound movement

The movement is also gold, and the Tonda PF split seconds chronograph is equipped with a PF361 rose gold hand-wound movement, which is also hollowed out and has a more artistic aesthetic.

This watch is the top of the line, regardless of material, function or movement. Priced at CNY 1,323,000.

At the end of the day, haute couture watches are meant to please themselves

Today, when people wear a high-priced haute watch, they have long used it not only as a tool to see time, but more importantly, to please themselves and meet the needs of high-level self-realization. It may be difficult for Parmigiani to be your first Haute Couture watch, but if you already have a few Haute Couture watches, and then come into contact with Parmagiani, you will definitely be attracted to it, and experience what is the real craftsmanship and low-key luxury temperament.