Last month, some media reported that Celine's 2021 sales had reached the 2 billion euro mark. However, it should be emphasized that this is not the data released by LVMH Group, but the analysts' estimates.
Whether it is right or wrong, it is certain that Celine has passed through the uncertain early stage, although there is no accurate sales, but we can see from the annual reports released by LVMH in recent years that Celine is steadily on the road to making money.
In LVMH's 2019 annual report, the description of Celine is only a short and poignant sentence about the launch of a new store.
By 2020, it became a "pro-son" treatment, not only pointing to a strong recovery in sales in Asia in the fourth quarter, but also praising the hot sales of the home and Triumphal Arch leather goods collection.
The group's recently released 2021 data is the most beautiful, and the highlights section is stated like this:
The Group's apparel and leather goods performed exceptionally well, notably Louis Vuitton, Christian Dior, Fendi, Celine and Loewe, achieving record revenue and profitability levels.
Later, when celine is mentioned, there are:
"Hedi Slimane's ready-to-wear and leather goods collection was a great success".
Experience for yourself.
In 2018, Hedi Slimane succeeded Phoebe Philo as Celine's creative director, and his actions to erase Phoebe Philo have made him controversial.
On the Internet, how deeply the nostalgia for Phoebe Philo is, how fierce the scolding of Hedi Slimane is.
However, the market has once again proved that those who spend real money and silver are not necessarily the same group of people who shout the most fiercely.
What exactly did Hedi Slimane do to make the Celine in his hand be scolded and sold at the same time?
Looking at his various initiatives and the way he reshapes the style of his products, you will find that his purpose is not to increase sales through trend and rejuvenation, and his ambitions are far greater than these two words.
What did he do?
In addition to the women's clothing launched at Paris Fashion Week every season, in addition:
After Hedi Slimane took office, he changed the brand logo "C LINE" to "CELINE", and in early September 2018, he erased the past content of the official account.
The first public design was a bag called "16", which was first unveiled by Lady Gaga and reported by many media.
At the time, Lady Gaga was carrying a 16 street shot
At the end of 2018, the triumphal arch marker bag, which was later a hit, was launched on the basis of the presbyopia model the following year, and the triumphal arch and presbyopia became popular elements of the brand.
Continue to sell several best-selling packages from the Phoebe Philo era, such as the CLASSIC Box Pack and Luggage Mini Smiley Pack, which went on sale in 2010, and the Belt Bag, which launched in 2014.
CLASSIC
On 21 January 2019, the brand's first standalone menswear collection, Celine Menswear Fall/Winter 2019, was launched at Paris Menswear Week. Prior to that, Hedi Slimane's debut was the brand's Spring/Summer 19 womenswear, which featured male models wearing women's clothing.
In February 2019, Celine unveiled its new flagship store on Madison Avenue in New York, and since then, the concept store has been renovated in several cities. The new store opened the Celine Art Project, where a large number of artworks were placed in the store to get up close and personal with customers, and the artists displayed in different stores had different emphases.
Paris- Rue Montaigne store
Starting with the Spring/Summer 2019 collection, Celine has launched artist collaborations including Christian Marclay, David Kramer, André Butzer.
Collaboration with Christian Marclay
In November 2019, the first Celine perfume store in Paris opened and launched the Haute Parfumerie perfume line.
In December 2019, the new MAISON CELINE living home series was launched, including perfume storage boxes, lighters, makeup bags, makeup mirrors, etc.
Perfume box
In June 2020, Hedi Slimane invited Lisa, who has a high popularity in Asia, to work as a model and shoot herself, and in September of the same year, she was officially announced as the global spokesperson for the brand.
Celine, in collaboration with the C SAR Foundation, launched the "Directional Compression DIRECTED COMPRESSIONS" replica jewelry for a limited edition in the Fall/Winter 2020 collection. This was followed by the launch of the Co-Branded Collection of Jewelry by Artists of Celine Louise Nevelson, one of the main initiators of modern sculpture.
Celine Louise nevelson
In April 2022, the haute couture leather triumphal arcade bag and 16 were launched, materials also including precious metals and diamonds.
Why did he do that?
Hedi Slimane was scolded, mainly because at the beginning he erased the mark of his predecessor, and the design was exactly the same style as in the past, which was not shirked in an interview with Le Figaro: "For me, it makes sense to stick to my own style." I would have completely reserved my style, and the same was true at Celine. ”
Sure to upset a large crowd, but also garnering enough attention, Hedi Slimane's Celine debut, typical of hot search events.
From the second show, he changed his designs like Saint Laurent's, instead looking for classic elements from the original Celine, reinventing a new "old" Celine, no longer associated with the old Photobe Philo, but in line with the historical atmosphere of luxury.
Celine Fall/Winter 2019
The Arc de Triomphe logo became the first and by far most important excavated old element.
In 1972, the brand took inspiration from the double C motif on the chains around the Arc de Triomphe in Paris and designed it into its own classic elements, which were used for a long time in bags and clothing.
Hedi Slimane first used the logo on the metal buckle of the bag, and then designed it in a presbyopia pattern.
The basic models that are hot in the market are all out of the old flower model, and there is no lack of details with a strong sense of design or small thinking.
For example, the TRIANGLE TRIOMPHE FRAME package that turns the dual C logo into a metal handle;
For example, in the upcoming new CABAS, the old flower has added an embroidery part and changed the fan-like pattern to a peach heart in the double C.
Basic + change, which has become a routine operation for popular luxury brands, you can think of it as clichéd, but it works.
There are two conditions for effectiveness, the brand is hard enough, the style itself has to look good, there are always people who think that people buy old flowers to show off the logo, there is no lack of such consumer psychology, but not all, a detailed analysis of the design of old flowers see the next push, here is not to unfold.
Look back at what Hedi Slimane said: "It's a whole new chapter, you're here with a whole new story, a culture, a language. You have to be yourself at all costs. ”
This quote perfectly sums up his reinvention of Celine.
This reshaping is more manifested in the product structure.
Hedi Slimane has spent 4 years expanding its product categories with sales potential and, at the same time, adding a high-end product line.
Every line he added had predictable market demands, especially the pioneering menswear. Hedi Slimane has so many menswear fans, from the earlier Dior homme to Saint Laurent menswear, all of which prove his strength in menswear. Saint Laurent's CEO said in an interview with WWD that before Anthony Vaccarello took office, Hedi Slimane was in charge of the men's ready-to-wear business larger than women's wear.
With traffic and customer base, selling men's clothing will be more reliable.
Looking at perfume and home series, perfume can be said to be the gold absorbing tool of major luxury goods, in the entire history of fashion, even in the high-end era, there are many brands living by perfume, which is also the most open product line at the consumption level, and the audience is extremely wide. As soon as Celine Perfume was listed, it made a big one and directly launched a perfume store.
In addition to the launch of the home series to enrich the product line, more importantly, with this kind of product suitable for gifts or pleasing themselves to contact customers who are more willing to spend money, low-cost products are also close to two thousand combs, eight or nine thousand small perfume boxes, more than ten thousand or even tens of thousands of makeup boxes, customers who buy these things are likely to pay more attention to enjoying life than customers who buy a box bag.
A poker box priced at 2950 in China
The recently launched rare leather couture series has further raised the consumer layer. The collection is made from Nile crocodile leather, the leather is polished with agate stone, and each bag is handmade by a craftsman who places an order before it is started. Customers can choose the color of the leather, the metal buckle part can be used in 18K gold or white gold, and diamonds can also be set.
In short, in terms of craftsmanship and materials, it is luxurious, allowing the brand to enter a higher luxury customer base, so that the name celine is linked to very expensive and valuable, just like the words associated in people's minds when they see Hermès and Chanel, although they are not yet reached.
In addition to the product itself, another important way to reflect the brand's sense of premium should be artist collaboration, and the relevant Celine store is designed to be like an art gallery, enhancing the offline experience to create the brand LOGO.
Although it belongs to the hot search body, Hedi Slimane is not at all keen on doing things, all marketing events are closely around the product itself, opening a store, pushing new products is the content of marketing, there is little additional "expenditure", even if it is to find celebrity endorsements, it also has a strong logic and story.
Mention two details.
Star friend Lady Gaga was exposed for the first time with the "16" on the street, and was even more gossiped that she was the first star to wear Hedi Slimane's Saint Laurent series in 2012, and now the first star to take Hedi Slaimen's Celine.
The year before Lisa became the brand spokesperson, in July 2019, she carried an antique old flower Celine, the photo posted on social media caused a heated discussion among fans, and later Celine asked her to do endorsements, and also launched a replica Ava series, and it belongs to The Asian limited, and Lisa shoots advertisements.
Lisa, who carried Celine's antiquated book in 2019
All of the above practices may be for the ultimate goal.
Another CHANEL?
At first, many people thought that Hedi Slimane's Celine's competitor was Kering's Saint Laurent, because the debut style was too similar, but in the later seasons his purpose in product development became clearer, and this statement was rarely mentioned.
I have a very, very subjective view that Hedi Slimane is doing more like another chanel.
Take a look at a few posters and guess which one is Chanel and which one is Celine.
All three are Celine.
But it really fits Chanel's temperament, not that he's imitating, but that what he's doing is like a new successor continuing Chanel.
A few years ago, it was reported that Hedi Slimane would take over Chanel, which was later debunked by Chanel. However, Karl Lagerfeld never hid his love for his designs, and at that time weight loss was also to wear the men's clothes he designed, even if he was the successor to his decades-old rival Yves Saint Laurent, it did not affect the relationship between the two. The most interesting rumor is that Hedi Slimane removed the signage for Karl Lagerfeld's Saint Laurent men's clothing. In 2018, Karl Lagerfeld also said in an interview that Hedi was a true friend and used the word "outstanding" to praise his creativity.
We can't know if Karl Lagerfeld actually considered having Hedi Slimane take his place, but the aesthetic understanding between the two sides is obvious. Even, Hedi's way of reshaping Celine is very similar to Karl's way of reshaping Chanel, finding elements with historical and cultural backgrounds that are worth amplifying, constantly enriching, and highlighting those items with broad market appeal with multi-dimensional shapes.
His stable and strong aesthetic system is the foundation for the success of Celine's various initiatives.
Hedi Slimane has a French vibe of the sixties and seventies, as well as a taste that draws inspiration from music, and the fusion of cool and classic is a very personal and charismatic creative feature, which is enough to attract the younger generation.
He once said: "Music constitutes the rule behind my photographic style, and it is also the rule behind all fashion designs for the past 20 years." When I was 6 years old, the only things I knew about other than Grimm's fairy tales were David Bowie's Aladdin Sane album, Rolling Stone's Angie, and Elvis Presley singing Suspicious Minds in a gold suit. At that time, the album cover became a vortex of inspiration for me, and the sparkle and decadence on the stage that I was deeply obsessed with."
This passage is the best analysis of his creative style.
Now, Celine's product structure has become more and more abundant, very like Chanel such a huge luxury brand, in the category there is no shortage of classic luxury and young, everyday series, at the same time, with a sense of youth, a strong sense of fashion to highlight similar to the chanel style of small coats, and other popular bags, the explosive models are manufactured one by one.
Of course, Chanel's position is irreplaceable, but Chanel's consumer layer lacks a more punk, cooler brand, can Hedi Slimane seize it with Celine?
Ah, good hard advertising.
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