Author: Chunmei Fox
Let's talk about the dance "Splendid Embroidery" that sparked some discussion in a small area at this year's Spring Festival Gala, taken from the dance drama "Five Stars Out of the East".
PS: Last year's Spring Festival Gala was quickly reported for infringement (I remember that time was still mainly based on boasting), I don't know how long it can last this year, so there will be as few pictures related to dance dramas as possible (but that notice said that I was a video infringement, but the video is directly linked to the official)... I don't understand.
The main issues at issue are these two issues -
1, the clothing and makeup are a little gentle;
2. The clothing does not conform to the Hanfu shape system.
1
Zephyr?
To be honest, I basically didn't see it when I saw people talking about Japanese style, but I kept brushing and scolding those who said Japanese style, and judging from the content of the rebuttal, it was probably those words such as "Hanfu is the ancestor of kimono".
Although these people can't see the article, I can't help but persuade them to abandon this technique, because to say this is to admit that "yes, it does taste like a kimono." Regardless of whether the reason for the "likeness" is who has the ancestor or who the grandson is, it is an acknowledgement of the similarity with the kimono, but who is in the front and who is in the back. Therefore, those who continue to use this phrase are either stupid or bad!
We have to take care of ordinary people, that is, from the perspective of audiences who do not understand clothing and do not contact costume information, let's see what similar associations may be made by the costume styling of "Splendid Embroidery"?
First of all, it should be the makeup of the dancers -
In fact, "Splendid" has been on many galas, and compared to the previous videos, it seems that only the Spring Festival Gala has removed the original red eye shadow. If you keep this red eye shadow, the overall look and feel will be more "Japanese". So, the Spring Festival Gala may have been tried.
△ Original makeup (from stylist Weibo)
△ Screenshot of the Spring Festival Gala (when I took the screenshot, I found that the focus of the Spring Festival Gala was actually inaccurate)
△ Web pictures
This makeup was actually previously published in the "
Fengqi Longxi: #Angelababy Fengqi Longxi Le Trick Makeup #, what kind of makeup is it?
has been talked about in detail, adding red eye shadow and painting small lips were all "created" by Japan in "Hanwu the Great".
△ "The Great Emperor of Hanwu"
In addition to eye makeup, this dancer's hairstyle is also similar to the routine of "Hanwu the Great", with a large bag on the head, very large ornaments, chopstick-like long hairpins in the blank area, and must be multiple sets of inserts. As for the pattern design of ornaments, I also like to use bronze and jade, regardless of whether it is used for headdress.
△ "The Great Emperor of Hanwu"
However, "Hanwu the Great" is a TV series almost 20 years ago, the level of cognition at that time, even if the Japanese makeup is copied in its entirety, everyone only applauds, the requirements for costume dramas at that time, as long as they can make up a source, the audience feels that the crew can guarantee Peking University. But now what years are they still designing, and it can only be said that the design ideas are too old.
The mainland literary and art circles have always followed the trend, especially some works that have been applauded by the market, and I always feel that at least I don't make a mistake by following these, but the audience has grown up from generation to generation. In fact, the Spring Festival Gala is getting more and more ugly, and it is also for this reason that the audience has matured and seen the world wider, but the literary and art circle is lazy, narrow-minded and trite.
As for the two points on the face, if you want to find similar artifacts, you can also find them, but I can only say that the location is not this position in the dance drama, and the era is not this era in the dance drama, plus the elements are simple, the probability of the makeup artist himself being blind is far higher than the possibility of him turning the book to research.
△ Sixteen Kingdoms period trick figurines
The era corresponding to this costume in the dance drama does not have as much messy makeup as everyone imagines. Or in other words, the ancients were ordinary humans with normal emotions, normal aesthetics, and normal behavior most of the time, and did not engage in some performance art anytime and anywhere.
△ A female figurine unearthed from the Hanwen Emperor's tomb
△ A female figurine unearthed from the Hanjing Emperor Yang Mausoleum
△ The horse king is piled up with figurines
△ Exhibition of achievements in the fight against cultural relics
The dancer's styling and makeup are also based on the aesthetics of the Han Dynasty, and the headdress is designed as a white jade texture pattern, solemn and elegant, and the face is a very representative makeup of the Han Dynasty "long eyebrows and red makeup". The large-scale use of vermilion covers the eyes and cheeks, solemn and very atmospheric, "long eyebrows into the sideburns", fully showing the woman's gentle and comfortable beauty, at the same time, the lip makeup of the Han Dynasty is beautiful with a small mouth, narrow and wide at the top, round and smooth, shaped like an inverted cherry, deeply restoring the cultural aesthetics of the Han Dynasty. - Beijing Daily
The above quotation was said during the promotion of the dance drama, whether it is a familiar taste and a familiar recipe.
Please, you can say that these designs are needed for the stage, but don't say what historical basis, what Chinese roots, don't blow these, it's really embarrassing.
2
Kimono?
The next thing that may make people feel like a trance is the clothing.
Many people must say that it is completely different from kimono! However, the feeling of "harmony" is not necessarily the same, and sometimes copying is the most out of shape. We are going to talk about parts that can give a "delusion" of being a person.
One of them is the collar. However, this is not the case with the collar of modern kimonos, which pursue an almost morbid uprightness.
△ Modern kimono
△ Ukiyo-e
But many people influence, kimono still has a large neckline and a big neck, why is that? In addition to some films that minors should not watch, another part of the reason is that the kimonos we came into contact with in the early days were all modified by the photo studio, and out of shooting needs, they always like to rub the edges of the color, which is what you think in your mind now.
△ Web pictures
But the big collar of "Splendid Embroidery" should have little to do with this kind of photo studio kimono, or not directly related, the designer is still frying a bowl of very cold rice.
Because more than ten or twenty years ago, the collar of the ancient costume of the mainland photo studio was also opened like this, but we like to increase the collar. This kind of ancient costume is also the main target of the Hanfu movement after the rise of the Hanfu movement, which is generally called "photo studio costume" in the Hanfu circle.
△ "Splendid Embroidery" (from stylist Weibo)
△ Web pictures
△ "Mother Yi World"
△ "The Fission of the Great Qin Empire"
Therefore, the costume design of "Splendid Embroidery" is the same as its shape, not only is it not new, but it is very old. I watched the promotion of the "Five Stars Out of the East" dance drama using "the most active in the industry, outstanding creative ability, and works recognized by all parties", alas, it is really not a young belly that can be loaded with new goods!
The second is the belt.
Early costumes would use a relatively wide belt, which not only echoed the need for thick materials to create a simple feeling in such costumes as a whole, but also helped shape the actor's posture. A wider belt can also add some decoration, which is also more conspicuous on small screens such as television. (In addition, this type of wide belt also has a structural role, which will be discussed below)
△ "The Great Emperor of Hanwu"
△ "Mother Yi World"
However, there was a combination of a thin belt on top of this wide belt (a combination of a narrow belt or a wide skirt and a thin belt existed before), and with the kind of collar on the front, it looked very kimono.
△ "The Great Emperor of Hanwu"
△ "The Vertical and Horizontal of the Great Qin Empire"
Unfortunately, the dance "Splendid" was all hit. Originally, ordinary people did not have much ability to recognize kimonos, and there were only a few that could be called feature points (right or not), and then they were all stepped on.
You're going to say that the designer is wronged, right? I believe they didn't want to work on that. But you say the designer is not wronged, right? What did the audience who exclaimed "Zephyr" do wrong.
△ Screenshot of the Spring Festival Gala
Is it that the audience does not learn and has no skills, so they do not have a basic understanding of kimono? That designer doesn't have much knowledge! What's more, the audience is amateur and spends money for enjoyment, while designers are professional, making money and becoming famous.
3
Hanfu?
Triggering a discussion about Hanfu was something I didn't expect. I originally thought that the Spring Festival Gala was rare to have such costumes that favored ancient costumes, and the Hanfu circle should be quite satisfied. As a result, the feedback I received was unsatisfactory.
It is not that dissatisfaction does not conform to history, but dissatisfaction does not conform to the Hanfu system. To this I can only say, your slot, my slot, seems to be different.
For example, this collar, Hanfu lovers think that it is not very handed.
△ Screenshot of the Spring Festival Gala
This cross angle may be imitating some Western Han figurines, but the collar of the Han warriors is layered, and the angle is decreasing layer by layer. The dance drama only made one layer, and it was a very wide collar, which could only be processed like this, and it belonged to the designer digging a hole for himself to pick.
△ A female figurine unearthed from the Hanjing Emperor Yang Mausoleum
△ Hanfu tunic
There are also Hanfu lovers who feel that the tunic is a dress, which cannot be changed indiscriminately under the banner of stage wear, and needs to comply with the rules of deep clothing tailoring.
However, the unearthed curvature does not conform to the rules of Confucian deep clothing, can you let the ancients fight with the Confucians first. Previously published in the
Left? Right? It is your brutal ignorance of the history of clothing that you are exposing to you!
It has also been said that the rules of Confucian classics cannot unify Chinese history, and those who do not believe in religion can not be enforced at all!
I also don't know why dance costumes are required to follow the standards of Hanfu? Moreover, Hanfu standards are easy to conflict with history, when we "tomb factions" jump out to pick the dancing thorns (already jumped out), should we scold the designer first or scold the Hanfu standard first?
Judging from the details of the costume exposed by the dance, this dress did not follow the idea of normal clothing at all. When the dancers turn around, they can see that the clothes are worn with a back zipper similar to a dress.
△ Screenshot of the Spring Festival Gala
Of course, many costume films are actually like this, and the visual effects of watching are the first, after all, it is not daily clothing. We've talked about it before, such as
Redesigning period costumes? Siamese, zipper, imitation sun, which is the most unforgivable black spot?
When Hanfu imitates costumes of costumes, there are often many irreconcilable contradictions because of the conflict between this costume and normal wear.
After this dress is put on, tie the belt we complained about earlier.
The reason why this belt is always made so wide is because the lower body part of this style is wrapped, so as to solve the problem that the waist will look unsightly and uneven due to winding, so cover it with a wide belt. Hanfu also encountered this problem, so the belts in the early years were all wide belts (shielding) and thin belts (reinforcement), which caused a protracted debate in Hanfu circles.
△ Web pictures
△ Hanfu tunic
To put it bluntly, this dress is pasted on the surface, not to mention that the outer layer does not conform to Hanfu, there is no second and third layer in it, and it is more "polite and happy".
4
Dance costumes?
Some people took the Han Warrior as an example, saying that it is also possible to dance when made into a historical model, why didn't the designer do it?
emm...... Is there a possibility, we have talked so much before, which proves that the designer at most has the intention to put gold on himself with cultural relics, and has never touched the slightest idea of restoration. Don't say that according to history, this performance suit is 108,000 miles worse, the structure is not right anywhere, I will only talk about a bug that everyone can see - the sleeves of the dance costume are not long enough.
△ Dancing figurines unearthed in the Blue Mountains
△ Dancing figurines unearthed in Baijiakou
△ Dancing figurines in the collection of the Metropolitan Museum
△ Screenshot of the Spring Festival Gala
From the perspective of performance costumes, I personally don't think it's very successful either. Because the sleeve length is not enough, because the fabric chosen is too thick, the whole dance does not present the graceful, light and simple feeling that the Han Dynasty long-sleeved dance can give.
The whole design just uses a wide collar, wide belt, thick fabric, large headgear, and color matching to create a thick and rough feeling, and use this feeling to create a long time in time and space (so the makeup is so jumpy and so charming, otherwise the whole look is very heavy). However, this approach is also very outdated, and almost all of the "Great Qin Empire" series follow this route, which is a TV series more than ten years ago.
△ "The Great Qin Empire"
Problems in clothing design even affected the restoration of the image of the Han Warriors. For example, its sleeves cannot be tucked in, and its hands can only be folded when it is lifted. Although queuing up is indeed very imposing, why is queuing up not shocking? Even if you do radio gymnastics, you can shoot this effect.
△ Screenshot of the Spring Festival Gala
△ A female figurine unearthed from the Hanjing Emperor Yang Mausoleum
If the main creators jump out and say, they don't want to engage in Han figurines, but just put gold on themselves in publicity, then I don't see anything.
The sleeve also restricts the dance moves, can't throw it out, can't take it back, and can only do some wrapping on the arm every time. To be honest, with so many tricks, I'd rather go to the opera, which play with water sleeves is not more interesting than this!
△ Screenshot of the Spring Festival Gala
△ Cantonese opera "The Legend of the White Snake Love"
This simple sleeve is long, and it is very bulky, do you know what it looks like? Like the dance on the Goguryeo Mai Izuka mural. Of course, I'm not saying that the designer studied Maizuka, I'm sure the designer may have never seen this tomb, but it's really the same way...
△ Gogura Dance Mound
5
"Five stars"?
Finally, I have a personal question, how can this dance be in the dance drama "Five Stars Out of the East"? Your times are not next to each other!
Because I haven't seen this dance drama, I don't know what the background of this dance is. But this dance costume is obviously imitating the early Western Han Dynasty, but the burial period unearthed by the "Five Stars Out of the East to Benefit China" Jin Shu is from the late Eastern Han Dynasty to the Wei and Jin periods, biased towards the Wei and Jin Dynasties.
△ From "Overview and Preliminary Study of 95MNIM8 Sites in Xinjiang"
Some people may say that the tomb of Laoguanshan Han is from the Western Han Dynasty, and there is nothing wrong with dancing with a loom background. The problem is that in fact, the mainland has not unearthed other Hanjin looms, and it cannot weave all the Hanjin unearthed in China.
I don't know the story of the dance drama, but I hope to round it back, otherwise this bug is quite big.
The stage effect of the Spring Festival Gala is a scene of weaving imitating a large loom restored from the loom model excavated from the tomb of Laoguanshan Han (see
Exploring the mystery of Hanjin weaving: a tortuous academic detour
"), but got the longitude and latitude lines wrong.
△ Spring Festival Gala stage
△ Shot from Sibo
Every time I encounter this kind of problem, I don't know if I should pick it out or not. Pick it, it seems nitpicking, and it's hard to come out with such a show; Don't pick it, isn't this kind of program just to promote culture, let the relevant experts check it, do it rigorously, isn't it the basic threshold? I don't even know if I'm demanding or if I'm justified.
In addition, the main character of this dance drama should actually be in the elite country. The costumes unearthed at the Nya site are almost complete, and there is not much problem in doing so, including some more iconic accessories and cultural relics.
△ The state of the corpses of men and women in tomb 3 (this tomb is pressed on top of tomb 8)
△ Costumes unearthed at the ruins of Niya
Especially like the male tomb owner of tomb No. 8 unearthed by "Five Star", scholars have long painted restoration drawings. Although, I think that according to this degree of preservation, there is really not much difference between painting and not painting.
△ Tomb No. 8 male corpse and restoration drawing
△ Wearing effect of tomb No. 83 and restoration
But I looked at some pictures on the designer's Weibo, and it seemed to be a little far from my expectations. He seems to be doing the best country I don't know.
△ Dance drama styling (from costume design Weibo)
I found that our designers just like to fly, although they can't necessarily walk very steadily. (PS: This designer is also the costume designer of the TV series "Beautiful Scholar", "There is Jade", "Son-in-law" and "Snow Eagle Lord")
Finally, according to past experience, the dance drama of "Five Stars Out of the East" should sell offline. To give a warm reminder to many audiences who are just going to taste early and usually have little experience in entering the theater, you should look at the cast lineup before buying tickets (the one that became popular at the previous party was promoted as a cast, and the cast was changed after the offline performance. Although we admit that the B and C corners are also very good, it is really bullying passers-by. ）
* Recent Articles *
-
Spring plum fox Traditional costume
The Tibetan fox with his face on the ground, so the costume enthusiast in the pile of paper