▲ Wrap roll. Photography / Li Lihong
-Fengwujun Language-
Colorful Guizhou, multi-flavored Guizhou cuisine
Invite a Guizhou person to dinner, there are many choices. Today's Guizhou people have a wide taste, Beijing's copper pot shabu-shabu, Sichuan's skewers, northeast geese, all have the opportunity to entertain guests and hosts. Only don't give him Guizhou hot sauce "Lao Gan Ma" in order to cater to his taste. Eighty percent don't buy it, and the atmosphere is soon cool.
For a long time, Guizhou has been located in the southwestern frontier, low-key development, rarely high-profile appearances, so as to give outsiders a stereotype - Qiandi depression, slow development, simple and simple cuisine, monotonous taste.
▲ Every summer during the Dragon Boat Festival, Shibing County in southeastern Qiandong will hold a canoe dragon boat race, and this table of cold mixed eggplant is prepared for the dragon boat race. Photography / Feng Sifang
It's all an illusion! In fact, Qiancai is full of vitality and rampage, and the big vegetables and snacks are full of tricks, both sour and spicy, and there is no lack of sweet and mild, but it is not often with outsiders. The sour, spicy and sweet of Guizhou can only be understood by experiencing it yourself.
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" > made spicy and enjoyable to eat</h1>
The spicy of Guizhou is the spicy that penetrates the soul, everywhere and omnipotent.
Guizhou belongs to the subtropical high prototype humid monsoon climate, most of the region is cloudy all year round, people's bones are wet, easy to rheumatic. Chili peppers are hot and dry, and they are also medicinal herbs.
Guizhou famous pepper more than a dozen varieties: Dafang line pepper, Wudang pepper, Xiaohe pepper, Suiyang Chaotian pepper... The taste and aroma have their own advantages, and the people of Guizhou are accustomed to being stubborn and extremely picky about the taste of peppers. The local hot sauce market is fiercely competitive, it is difficult to have which kind of hot sauce is unique, many people prefer to concoct by hand, burning, pickling, soaking, steaming, beating, frying, special pepper, not tired of cumbersome.
▲ On October 9, 2019, Guizhou Bijie pepper harvest. Photo/Visual China
After all, for Qiancai, with chili peppers, there is half of the country. When the peppers are ready, the rice is half ready.
Guizhou people especially love bad peppers. Rich or poor, as long as they are self-cooked, they have a kimchi jar filled with bad peppers. The production of bad peppers in August and September, take the freshly cooked small peppers, add ginger garlic, peppercorns, white wine, sugar and salt, put into the kimchi jar to marinate, the taste is sweet and sour, similar to Hunan pickled peppers, but more mild, most suitable for cooking to enhance the taste. Whatever the cooking theme, bad chili peppers can be plugged in.
▲ On August 11, 2018, villagers in Shrimp Town, Xinpu New District, Zunyi City, Guizhou Province, were making bad peppers. Photo/Visual China
Chili oil is naturally also home-fried. Guizhou's red oil is exquisite, first use ginger garlic and Huaxi pepper together to scoop into a sticky "rice chili pepper", and then put into the cooked vegetable oil on low heat and simmer slowly, in the middle according to personal taste, add mash or curd milk, boil well and then soak overnight, the finished product tastes strange.
Guizhou people have an amazing imagination when concocting chili peppers. They can treat chili peppers as wine, roll the dried chili peppers into chili noodles with their bare hands, marinate them with spices, and then take them out for three years and then take them out to mix vegetables; they can also use the chili peppers as rice, use glutinous rice and red peppers together to scoop into powder, marinate them and make "noodles and peppers", put some oil to fry into cakes, it is a dish and a rice.
▲ In January 2020, a Guizhou chili sauce that will be conjured for fish and meat shreds. Photo/Visual China
There are many famous dishes in Guizhou, such as crispy fish, spicy chicken, yuanyuan hooves... No matter how you fry and fry, the most important step is to inject the soul of the dish with a large amount of chili peppers. Outsiders often think that spicy chicken is Sichuan cuisine, dry and chewy, and a few pieces of chicken are buried in a pile of dried peppers, which is actually full of twists. Guizhou spicy roast, eat is moist rather than dry, spicy chicken pay attention to the skin crispy meat sticky, oil but not greasy, will use rice dumpling pepper refreshing. Messing with chili peppers or dry and hard textures are considered out of place.
Friends who like refreshing taste, the first to promote the pickled pepper plate tendons. Guizhou people eat is pork plate tendons, fried in wide oil, put a lot of pickled pepper, supplemented by garlic, taste Q bomb, sour and spicy stomach, common in the streets and alleys, outsiders foraging, may wish to eat more, plate tendons taste sticky, bubble pepper crisp, it is called authentic.
▲ Guizhou spicy chicken. Photography / Literature Image
Guizhou people go to other places, often can not eat, mostly because they can not eat authentic hometown flavor. If you want to save the people of Guizhou, spicy chicken and beef powder are too rare, so it is better to send them more spices and let them make dipping water.
Guizhou dipped in water is a wet seasoning based on chili peppers. The blending of dipping water is varied, the material is free, and the taste is arbitrary, but in the hearts of the exquisite Guizhou people, the dipping water is a big thing, and there are no rules and no squares.
▲ Fried tofu balls with dipping water. Photography / Literature Image
Boiled greens are dull and tasteless, but if you rub the wood-fired peppers with your hands and serve the dried tempeh and pour the soup, it is a bowl of excellent dipping water. Even ordinary boiled dishes can be put on a hot and spicy posture when they encounter it. Guizhou famous dishes "golden hook hanging jade brand", "sauerkraut bean soup" must be dipped in water with vegetarian peppers, with simmered chili noodles with more than a dozen kinds of oil-free spices made, the taste is refreshing, and stewed pig's trotters are also the best cp.
There are also bad chili dipping water, oil chili dipping water, water tempeh dipping water... Guizhou people can casually say more than a dozen. Guizhou people invite guests, a dinner table dipped in countless bowls of water, the taste is light or heavy, is sour or spicy, all by self-help, there is no chance to fight because of taste. Dipped in water, it is the little angel who creates harmony at the dinner table.
▲ A pot of sour soup beef almost surrounded by dipped water. Photo/Visual China
<h1 class = "pgc-h-arrow-right" > everything is acidic, three days do not eat and channel</h1>
Spicy is the soul of Qiancai, and sour is the body of Qiancai.
The sky is clear, and the ground is not three miles flat. The salt outside cannot be transported in, there is no salt mine at home, and people with strong survival desires cannot eat. The ethnic minorities in Qiannan made a clever move, the sword went sideways, replaced salt with acid, ate it for thousands of years, ate out of the delicacy and ate the style, and ate the life experience of "not eating acid for three days, going out to fight and sneaking".
▲ Above: Kaili Hmong white sour soup. Photography / Chen Peiliang; Below: Qiandongnan red sour soup. Photography / Xinlin Lai
Whether it is the Miao, Dong, or Shui and Buyi, almost every family has a sour soup jar and a pickle altar. Sour soup, is the head of Guizhou, the grade is strict, the faction is complex: the soup can be divided into extra high acid, high acid, upper acid, diacic acid, semi-clear, semi-concentrated, etc.; to the taste can be divided into sweet acid, salty acid, sour and spicy, spicy and spicy, sweet and salty acid, etc.; and then with raw materials, there are ginger acid, vegetable acid, bean acid, tofu acid, chicken acid, fish acid, egg flower acid... In short, everything is acidic.
The acid of the sour soup is a natural fermentation acid, and the glutinous rice and beans are fermented in the warm water of the rice soup and quickly become sour. The traditional old sour soup is boiled with rice, placed next to the stove, stirred daily, after five or six days, the sour taste gradually mild, dark and fragrant, the taste is slightly lighter than vinegar, and the white sour soup is ready.
▲ Guizhou sour soup fish hot pot. Photography / Literature Image
Foodies have a saying: the national sour soup looks at Guizhou, and the guizhou sour soup looks at Qiandongnan. If you don't eat the Kaili sour soup fish in Miaoling, you can't understand the acid of Guizhou.
Nowadays, Kaili people often go to the market to buy sour soup, but the sour soup fish in local restaurants never buy sour soup from outside, they are all boiled at home, and every family has a secret. Summer is sweltering, people are always easy to be irritable, the best medicine is to find a group of friends, cook a pot of fish, eat fish shabu-shabu, push the cup to change the cup, pores gradually open, sweat, eat a meal, feel comfortable, what hot days have no appetite, the day is boring, are all lies.
▲ Sauerkraut fish in qiandongnan. Photography / Lu Yukun
As for sauerkraut, it is naturally an indispensable part of the life of Guizhou people, sour cabbage, sour radish, with hot sauce or dipping water, you can eat three bowls of rice in a row. It's just that it seems a little mediocre.
People with heavy tastes are highly recommended to try aqua sour meat, which is a delicacy that locals do not necessarily accept in all: choose a whole pig's head, shave and slice it, mix it with salt and cooked glutinous rice, put it into a jar, buckle it in the water tank, and then wait quietly, like waiting for a flower to bloom. The sun rises and the moon sets, and Qing Shui embraces the glutinous rice, and the glutinous rice holds the pig's head, slowly fermenting. When the sour taste becomes stronger, the pig's head is ripe, take out the jar, and dip the pork head meat into the chili noodles, only to feel strange - the pork filling is tender and greasy, the cartilage is crisp, the millet is sticky, it is simply delicious from another dimension.
▲ The Dong people of Liping, Guizhou, also have a sauerkraut button meat. Photo/Visual China
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" > guizhou people understand "incense" what incense? </h1>
The aroma of qiancai is not what you think. The aroma of the cabbage may be a handful of folded ear roots, the roots of houttuynia cordata, slightly bitter, and the smell is like a carp that has not been steamed in a pot, with a damp and fishy smell.
Folded ear root is a magical presence in Qiancai, and its identity depends on its size. Chopped, that is, the seasoning, eat noodles, eat cold vegetables, eat a large handful of snacks, the taste of food becomes particularly "Guizhou". If cut a little longer, it is a side dish, which can be fried with green vegetables, not to mention beautiful, chewing also vigorously. It is the most dedicated male number two on the dinner plate, which can not only make the protagonist shine and shine, but also highlight his own strength.
▲ Stir-fried bacon with folded ear roots of the Miao family. Photo/Visual China
Guizhou people love to eat tofu, and there is a "love tofu fruit" that is a popular snack in the streets and alleys. Bake the tofu in a bulging sac and stuff it with a full set of spices – soy sauce, chili noodles, green onions, ginger, garlic paste, vinegar as you taste, and the key is to stuff it with sliced ear roots. Tofu is charred and tender, the root of the folded ear is crisp, poured on half a bowl of chili water, spicy, fishy, beany taste is originally too exciting, but the fusion has become a negative positive, with a wonderful sense of layering and aroma.
If you feel that it is really difficult to swallow at first taste, you can choose two or three tastes, get used to this taste, and you can understand the essence of the folded ear root.
▲ Tofu fruit wrapped with folded ear roots. Figure/ Figureworm Creative
The aroma of the qiancai may also be the fragrance of the mint leaves. Mint is commonly known as dog meat aroma, the taste is cool, sexual toughness, even if it suffers from the ravages of frying and stewing, it does not lose its fresh breath, walking a large circle in a frying pan with wide oil, returning is still a teenager, which is really touching. Therefore, when Guizhou people blow up ribs, they sometimes grab a handful of mint and put it on the plate, which is beautiful and greasy, and a plate of greasy ribs is also half off the tacky.
Cold mint is also excellent, chili, soy sauce with mint, hot and fresh without any violation, can be called double-sided Eve. Or just chop it up and sprinkle it into the dipping water, dipping it in the water, and putting anything in it is justice.
▲ Xingyi lamb powder, but also put some mint leaves. Photography / Apple
If someone likes to eat Thai Tom Yin Gong soup, they must like the lemongrass in it. Guizhou people often use a kind of sesame oil, called wood ginger, the aroma is very similar to lemongrass. Because it also contains citronellal and citral, it can be used to remove fishy freshness for river freshness, make sour soup to knock shrimp, or sour soup fish, casserole powder, wood ginger seed oil is the finishing touch.
However, for many outsiders, the indescribable and sensational taste of wood ginger is a more terrifying presence in Qiancai than the folded ear root.
▲ Casserole powder. Figure/ Figureworm Creative
I have seen someone ask on the Internet, what specialties should I bring home when I go to Guizhou? There are warm replies from locals below: take two bags of crisp whistle home, snack on the road, old and comfortable!
What is a crisp whistle? Lard residue is also. It is just that when the diced meat comes out of 70% of the oil, it is cooked with mash, white wine, soy sauce and vinegar, and the entrance is fragrant and crisp, can be eaten dry and cold, and can be accompanied by meat and rice. Guizhou's crisp whistle fried rice and cold mix soft whistle are classic lazy dishes, and every household cannot do without it.
However, when they think of the raw material being lard, many people are insensitive. After all, eating high salt and spicy every day is very sinful, if you even eat lard, it is equivalent to directly abandoning the body. But guizhou people don't care, what about lard, incense is enough.
▲ Guizhou crisp whistle powder. Photo/Visual China
I have lived in Guizhou for a long time, and I am particularly cruel in making dishes and putting spices, which is probably a southern characteristic, and I eat the spices as a dish. Guizhou has a snack that gathers a lot of spices, called silk doll, eat this dish, you are half Guizhou people.
Silk dolls ranked first in Guiyang street food, and their popularity has not faded over the years. Eat like a spring roll, cut the vegetables into thin strips, wrap the rice skin into a "baby", one bite at a time. Sellers usually give customers a large plate with about a dozen dishes neatly arranged, with colorful kelp shreds, sour radish shreds, mung bean sprouts, folded ear roots, crisp whistles, pickled kohlrabi... A stack of rice peels is more than ten centimeters in diameter, rolled up with shredded vegetables, and served with the store's characteristic dipping water. Dipping water usually has bad chili peppers, lemons, soy sauce, wood ginger seed oil, sour soup...
One bite of the silk doll eats, half of Guizhou's characteristic spices enter the mouth. The day you fall in love with this dish is when you fall in love with Guizhou.
▲ Silk dolls, people can't help but wonder, a pancake can really roll so much? Figure/ Figureworm Creative
<h1 class= "pgc-h-arrow-right" > every table of qiancai, there is a "little sweet"</h1>
The sweetness of Guizhou is the sweetness of a girl, simple, refreshing, and unpretentious.
Yellow cake is the simplest sweet food in Guizhou. Avenue to Jane, even do not add sugar, just steam a bowl of sticky rice, mixed with soy milk wrapped in bamboo leaves, steamed overnight, and then covered for a day, glutinous rice will ferment yellowing, into sweets. The way to eat yellow cakes is also casual, or fried or grilled, cold food can also be, not at all pretentious.
Guizhou people love to eat glutinous rice, often used glutinous rice to make sweet rice, but not necessarily put sugar, such as cake porridge.
▲ Cake porridge is a famous food in Huaxi Qingyan, Guizhou. Photo/Visual China
Guizhou snack street cake porridge sales are particularly high, similar eating methods have not been seen elsewhere: hot glutinous rice cake out of the pot, covered with a layer of water chestnut flour or lotus powder, hot water hood poured, mixed with rose sauce, sprinkled with sesame peanuts and preserved fruit. At first glance, some of the chaotic appearance of the world is not open, the spoon is stirred, and the raw materials are still not visible, in short, the appearance is not satisfactory, but the entrance is surprising. This slimy hot porridge tastes unexpectedly refreshing, smooth and soft, and full of flavor. After eating a bowl, I want to eat it again, it's damn sweet.
Guizhou people prefer to sweeten flowers and preserved fruits, and rose sauce is popular in the Qiancai River and Lake. After Qingyan rose sauce became famous, qingyan rose candy, rose tea, and rose preserves were sold. Qingyan's rose candy has a good reputation in the local area, and unlike other places, it is maltose pickled roses, which belong to the "strong fragrance type". Sincerely speaking, the sauce is good, the sugar is general, and the real thing that can't be missed is rose ice powder.
▲ Add ice powder with osmanthus flowers, roses and dates, would you like to have a bowl? Figure/ Figureworm Creative
The southwest region loves ice powder, and the authentic thing is to rub ice powder with ice powder seeds, add sesame seeds, watermelon, melon seeds, brown sugar water, and drizzle with rose sauce. Ice powder slippery, sweet, cold and cold, after eating the cool spicy and sour Guizhou cuisine, and then eat a bowl of ice powder, the whole person is shrouded in a kind of sun and moon with the same glow, happy to almost faint on the spot.
The sweetness of the qiancai is also the sweetness of the rice wine. Guizhou people call mash sweet wine brewing, mostly used for seasoning. When making dipping water, the aroma of sweet wine can sublimate the whole bowl of spices, white sugar makes teammates vulgar, when making sour soup, the traditional practice is often not sugary, only put a lot of sweet wine, put sugar is not fragrant enough, when making fish can eat it.
It is often said that heavy salt and spicy will dull the taste buds, so people with too heavy tastes are not sensitive to taste, but this truth does not make sense at all in Guizhou people. Three spicy meals a day, they have precise distinction and requirements for different tastes, which is really confusing.
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