Produced by | Tiger Sniff Youth Culture Group
Author | Wang jing
Editing, Cartography丨Slag County
This article was first published on the Tiger Sniff Youth Content public account "That NG" (ID: huxiu4youth). Here, we present the faces, stories and attitudes of today's young people.
"What are the fashion inspirations for 2024? Your grandpa! ”
This is the tone that Pinterest sets for fashion trends in 2024.
Nowadays, many young people's outfits are becoming more and more similar to their grandfathers, and this style has even become a new blue ocean of style that big brands are now grasping the layout.
So the question is, what is grandpa style?
爷爷风(Grandpacore),是由"Grandpa"和"core"组合而成。
Similar to various sub-trends represented by Core aesthetics, grandpa style is naturally a fashion style centered on grandparents' outfits, and as the name suggests, this micro-trend means dressing like grandpa.
From silhouette suits, cargo jackets, polo shirts, and printed shirts to knitted tank tops and suede loafers, grandpa's trendy pieces don't look so much like the latest in fashion as they look like old clothes from an elder's wardrobe or second-hand store.
In short, the main characteristics of the grandfather style are the loose fit, the lack of emphasis on cinching the waist, and the pursuit of practicality and comfort; The color is low saturated, like an old dress in an attic box; Pay attention to the process, I can't wait to have 800 lines in 1cm.
In fact, as early as the beginning of this year, mainstream international fashion magazines, including VOGUE, predicted that this year's fashion trends would come from the wardrobe of "grandpa".
Pinterest's prediction that the first wave of popularity in 2024 would be "Grandpacore" at the time was based on rising searches on the platform, including custom denim jackets (+355%), eclectic clothing styles (+130%), grandpa styles (+60%) and vintage streetwear (+55%).
WGSN, the world's largest consumer trend forecasting agency, directly refers to Grandpa Feng as #OutOfRetirement, which vividly points out the essence of this micro-trend.
WGSN believes that it is #OutOfRetirement宝刀未老更具实用性 and easier to navigate than the previous retro themes, so it is attracting more and more attention from young people.
When popular items are combined and matched, there is an unexpected sense of fashion that is independent of the limitations of the era, in other words, grandpa style is a new reflection of another retro trend.
At the end of the year, at first glance, some eccentric grandfather-style outfits began to become popular, perhaps it was precisely the mood of the times that accurately hit, and everyone hoped to embrace the inner sustenance in the new year and take advantage of the new fashion to be more happy.
Edited is a United Kingdom fashion retail technology provider that provides real-time data analytics software to apparel brands and retailers. They noticed an uptick in new arrivals for items like cardigans and fur vests, "and we saw a lot of straight-leg jeans rolled up so you could see socks and casual shoes. ”
Search on Xiaohongshu and TikTok, and you will see many dressing strategies sharing how to quickly build a "grandpa style" style, the style is versatile and not limited to the season, although it is called "grandpa style", regardless of gender.
The challenge of catching up with this fashion trend may be that it is difficult to find a "flat" style, and it is easy to look like a god.
There are always some of the popular models mentioned above in brands such as Zara and Uniqlo, however, a key message lurking behind the grandpa style is that the real grandpa style has to choose high-quality items that have been tempered over time.
Fast fashion affordable version is easy to expose the hole cards in the face of this retro trend, after all, quality determines winning or losing. But imagine that the ancestors of the online aesthetic taste of the past also favored items with better textures when making shopping decisions.
In the past two years, Barbour, a very popular grandfather-style item, has always been known for its Seiko, although some brands have imitated him to make the same style, but the quality has never tasted
Another characteristic of the grandpa style is the low saturation of the colors, which makes it look more uninhibited.
The dopamine color that was popular last year usually doesn't appear, but the grandpa color is somewhat similar to the Maillard color system, and the grandpa style is obviously more relaxed than the latter's uprightness.
Popular colorways are usually beige, brown, and silver gray, but even if you use bright colors to brighten up the atmosphere, you will choose dark lemon yellow, ocean blue, etc., which are not too eye-catching. The overall atmosphere is like the image quality presented by a CCD camera, old-school and trendy, restrained and timeless.
In terms of design, Grandpa Style accurately grasps the proportion of aged craftsmanship and contemporary dressing style, so that young consumers can get emotional comfort.
For example, cargo jackets place great emphasis on the balance of comfort and freedom, and as a hot item of the new trend, they usually choose loose silhouettes, and add metal buttons, zippers, etc. to the details, so that they can wear them with a sense of history.
The suit is also a characteristic matching item of the grandfather style, although it still makes a fuss about the silhouette, the grandfather style is relatively more regular in the specific design, with a loose and straight version with a durable check.
Denim shirts tend to be washed and distressed, after all, such specially treated denim fabrics are more likely to create a nostalgic atmosphere.
Fair Island sweaters play an important role in grandpa's outfits, with classic colors such as beige, dark blue, and red adding a retro vibe. At the same time, the Fair Isle sweater, which can be popular in the first century, usually uses delicate jacquard patterns, which are both complex and regularly arranged graphic aesthetics, which not only enhances their own recognition, but also amplifies the delicacy of grandpa-style wear.
In short, grandpa is warm and durable, and it is a better reference and empathy for ordinary people.
So how do you grasp this eclectic and stylish grandpa trend? Layering and mixing vintage pieces to create a sense of layering is the key to wearing.
Try a fur vest + shirt in the summer, a cargo jacket or silhouette suit in the spring and fall, and a straight-fit coat in the colder winter. Accessories are also very particular, such as flat hats and colorful striped scarves that instantly add a bit of relaxation to the historical look.
Layering also runs the risk of looking cumbersome, and that's where some relatively lightweight pieces come in handy. A mix of short skirts, polo shirts, or cross-knitting fabrics can make the overall look a little breathless.
As a fashion style with an easy entry point, grandpa style is now very popular, and brands don't want consumers to really take some ancestral clothes from the old wardrobe to interpret the new style.
As a result, the clever brands began to work with grandpa style.
The popularity of the grandpa trend is no longer limited to young people who are at the forefront of trends.
According to some platform data, in 2023, #grandpacore在TikTok上的浏览量增长了10% of the #grandpacore hashtag alone will now have 5.4 million views on Xiaohongshu, which is more familiar to Chinese consumers.
Grandpa seems to be another popular trend growing from social media, and within a few months, the natural limelight will be replaced by another "bottom-up" trend, as is customary. But at present, it seems that the trend of grandpa style has not yet reached its peak.
It's an undeniable rule of the industry that luxury brands influence and shape the global aesthetic. Luxury brands not only have a team of professionals to predict the trends in the next few years, but also have the financial resources to support them to promote and distribute the new trends around the world. What they are currently focusing on is - grandpa style products.
This year's runway proved that both luxury brands and established fashion houses have begun to "dress old", as evidenced by the frequent appearance of cargo jackets, polo shirts, and striped shirts, which are the soul pieces of grandpacore, and the extensive use of the layering rule.
The Prada Group, the most ambitious fashion corps in the past two years, has been the most rapidly changing.
Not only did the mainline brand begin to put cargo jackets on models who played elite roles, but Miu Miu's daughter-in-girl style, which has attracted the most attention in the past two years, has also begun to mature.
On the Spring/Summer 2024 runway, the girls changed into cargo coats and vintage striped polo shirts, paired with tutus, and the visual clash of navy, burgundy and ginger brought about by the brand's press release - "embrace unique personalities and enjoy the joy of life". Despite being so close to what their grandparents wore to them, it's undoubtedly the item that young customers of the present day will choose.
Even Loewe, who has always been creative, is starting to get older.
On the runway, they pulled out plaid suits, chunky sweaters, and high-waisted pants and slipped them on models, rushing towards grandpacore style.
Loewe Spring/Summer 2024, high-waisted pants in corduroy
At the same time, fashion icons have added a fire to the popularity of grandpa style.
Gigi Hadid's outfits are almost in the range of the current grandfather's style. She wore an olive-green tailored suit with a checked shirt underneath and a huge camel-colored suit on the outside. These pieces are frankly not true grandpa, so she opted for a pair of two-tone loafers and green sunglasses to make the look instantly special.
When grandpa style has become fashionable, many related soul items have been out of stock, in the face of such a consumption boom, independent designer Divya Agarwal said in an interview with the media:
"This is not surprising, as vintage style has become an indispensable element of fashion these days."
So, why is Grandpa Wind so popular? In addition to the fact that commercial brands, celebrity KOLs, and media outlets are actively marketing on social networks, there are deeper reasons behind this.
In the view of Selene Oliva, editor of Vogue Italy, grandfather style, as a fashion trend born in the post-epidemic era, is in line with the "relaxation" and "comfort" that people have been pursuing.
She believes that the popularity of grandpa style comes from the current situation of society and belongs to a kind of soul analgesic.
You see, people are now living in a state of anxiety, on the one hand, AI is forcing human civilization, on the other hand, the economy is sluggish, class solidification, in this state of not knowing where to go in the future, paying for classic products through consumption is also a decision-making behavior that seeks a sense of psychological stability.
For the younger generation, there are other reasons for choosing grandparents.
As a generation growing up in a digital world, the fast pace is both fresh and tiring: after chasing one fashion style after another, it's almost inevitable that the new humans who are tired of playing will re-project their perspectives on film cameras, vinyl records, vintage clothes, and grandpa-inspired favorites.
Consumption, as the ultimate behavior of people, has never been as simple as swiping a card to consume, and the rise of nostalgic consumption in the past two years has confirmed its complexity.
A quote from Boim's book "The Future of Nostalgia" is just right:
"Nostalgia isn't just about the past, it can be forward-looking. What people miss may not only be externalized representations, but more likely to be thoughts on where the future holds. ”
In the future, nostalgic consumption will continue to be popular, and that NG · will continue to observe them.
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