#元气过新年 #
In the old city of Beijing, there were many kinds of snacks and many kinds of flowers, which were generally served in different seasons. Whether it is an old Beijinger who is a veteran diner or a tourist who is trying beijing for the first time, when you see the various Beijing snacks with vivid shapes and attractive colors, you can't help but be eager to try.
Nowadays, with the continuous development of the times, many old Beijing flavors have gradually disappeared, compared to the classic Beijing snacks such as Aiwowo, donkey rolling, cream fried cakes, and some have changed from the "famous" of the past to "non-famous", and even many post-60s and post-70s Beijingers may have rarely heard of it. Many varieties of traditional snacks in Beijing are falling into a situation of increasing loss and elimination, and only the happy memories left by traditional snacks are lingering. At present, the Beijing Time-honored Brands Association is excavating and sorting out the traditional snacks in Beijing, and hopes that those Beijing snacks that remain in the memory can become an excellent member of the Beijing flavor culture and be passed on and developed forever.
People say that the best embodiment of a city's style is not the bustling places with red wine and greenery, nor the high-rise buildings everywhere, but the local snacks scattered in the streets and alleys.
"Wax moon arrives, pork belly, seven points thick, oven fire, red and bright, crispy puff pastry, oily. Take a bite, full of incense, cook a boil, fragrant. I'll make it, Daddy's taste it, eat it this year, think about it next year..."
Stove meat, now people under the age of 60 in old Beijing, have not heard much, and even fewer have eaten. Even the old people here talk about "stove meat" when their eyebrows flutter, and many people over there hear "donkey meat" and feel inexplicable. The old people explained to them that they were talking about stove meat, but the listener did not know what to eat.
In fact, the stove meat is the selected pork belly roasted in the hearth, also called roasted square, hanging stove meat, and ringing skin meat. In the past, it was a big dish that Beijingers supplemented in autumn and winter after the Mid-Autumn Festival.
During the Qianlong period, Pan Rongxi's "Jisheng in the Age of Emperor Jing" (帝京時年紀胜) included "Southern furnace duck, roasted piglets, hanging stove meat" in the article. The south furnace duck here refers to the current roast duck; if the piglet is roasted, it is a roast piglet; the person who does not use the piglet is called stove meat. The ground stove used at that time was also known as "stewing furnace", which was later changed to "char siu" and then developed into "hanging stove", so in the old times (until the founding of New China) the roast duck shop was commonly known as "stove meat shop" or "chicken and duck line", and the brick carving "old furnace shop" on the upper left of the façade of the old shop built in the fourteenth year of Guangxu (1888) was still eye-catching. The Qing Dynasty 'Ding Collection' records the practice of stove meat: "Hanging stove meat: take sauce and vinegar to coat the meat, put it on the iron bar, and add four or five white shallots... After the oil smoke is revealed, turn the surface and coat the sauce vinegar and green onion, so that several times, to the degree of yellow crispness. "Ji Sheng in the Age of Emperor Jing" also wrote: "In addition to the Mid-Autumn Festival gui cake, then ... Roast piglets and hang stove meat. "It shows that the stove meat is not only the same as the roast duck, but also the Mid-Autumn Festival in the Qing Dynasty.
Speaking of stove meat, here we should mention the famous and long-established Tianfu Sauce Elbow Shop in Beijing.
Tianfu was opened in the third year of the Qianlong Dynasty (1738), liu Fengxiang, a native of Ye County, Shandong Province, came to Beijing to make a living, and partnered with a Shanxi merchant to open a sauce butcher shop at the east corner of Xidan Archway, dealing in sauce elbows, sauce meat and sauce belly. But the store is small and nameless, so it has been in a slump. Soon, the Shanxi people withdrew their shares and were run by the Liu family alone. One day, Liu Fengxiang went to the market to buy goods, and saw an old plaque on the old goods stall, which read "Tianfu", three Yan body letters, and the pen was vigorous and powerful. Liu Fengxiang believes that this word does have a foundation and contains the meaning of "blessing from heaven", which is just used as a font size to attract business. So he bought the plaque, went home to add some decorations, and hung it on the lintel of his small shop, which was really extraordinary and made the small shop shine. Since then, some literati and inkers have often stayed in front of the store to taste the calligraphy of the three characters of "Tianfu", and the number of customers has gradually increased. After the small shop was named after it, business became increasingly prosperous.
It is said that the Tenfu sauce elbow is also famous for a chance encounter. The Liu family has a son who sometimes helps watch the pot boil the elbow. Once when he looked at the pot, he fell asleep and woke up to see that the meat had rotted in the pot. The child was frightened, and quickly hid from the adult, and put the elbow that was already soft as mud in a cool place to dry. Coincidentally, an official from the nearby Qing court punishment department passed by and bought the elbow. After going back to eat, I thought it tasted good, and the next day I sent someone to buy it. Those badly boiled elbows are naturally gone, only normally made elbows. After he tasted it, he felt that the taste was far worse than before, so he indicated that he wanted to buy the one he bought yesterday. At this time, the child saw that he had not only not run into trouble, but had attracted business, and he told the truth. The owner of the shop was overjoyed, and according to the child's "mistake" approach, it was more elaborate. The fame of the Tianfu sauce elbow has also spread in the official arena since then, attracting many high-ranking officials and nobles.
In order to please Cixi, some officials recommended Tianfu's sauce elbow to him, and after Cixi tasted it, he praised it greatly, so he asked Tianfu to send elbows to the palace every day, and gave Tianfu a waist card to enter the palace, stipulating that every day it was sent to the palace in quantities, and tianfu's sauce elbow became a tribute to the Qing Dynasty. According to historical records, on the sixtieth birthday of Cixi, all kinds of dishes on the feast were abundant and complete, but because of the lack of Tianfu sauce elbows, the imperial dining room specially sent people to quickly get them.
Tianfu sauce elbow was also loved by the concubines in the Qing Palace. The Guangxu Emperor's concubine Jin was a vegetarian who ate every day, but she could not withstand the temptation of "color, aroma, and taste" of sauce elbows. She ordered the chef of the dining room to prepare a plate of sauce pork knuckle for her at any time, no matter whether she ate it in the morning or evening, when she wanted to eat it, she immediately brought it to the dining table, and Princess Jin ate the sauce elbow almost to the point of one meal a day.
After the Xinhai Revolution, the last emperor Puyi longed for Western life, wore suits, ate foreign meals, and disdained the traditional food of the Qing Palace, but tianfu sauce elbow was an exception. Although Puyi does not eat Western food every day, Russian, French, Italian... But The Tianfu sauce elbow is a must-have dish on the Western table. In 1959, after the last emperor Puyi was pardoned, the next day he rode a bicycle to Xidan Tianfu to buy sauce elbows, and was locked up for so many years, he was stunned that he had not forgotten this mouthful.
In addition to the sauce elbows of the Tianfu, which are known for being "fat but not greasy, thin and not chai", another signature is the stove meat.
Every morning, less than five o'clock, the masters get up and start baking the stove, and the stove meat is baked twice a day, which can bake about a dozen pieces of stove meat. A whole piece of pork with a thin skin and tender flesh, almost 18 cm wide, 30 cm long and 5 cm thick, dehaired and washed, and then dried in a ventilated special house, just like a roast duck should be dried moderately before entering the oven to bake a crispy crust. The dried pork belly is inserted into shape with iron brazes on both sides, hung on a hook, sent to the oven to hang, and smoked with fruit wood. The smoking time depends on the quality of the meat, the time is shorter if the skin is thin, and the time is slightly longer if the thick skin is large.
The first furnace of the day takes relatively long, usually taking four hours to bake. Bake the skin until the outer skin is evenly baked with golden bubbles, and then bake the inner seeds. Only twelve squares of meat can be grilled per oven at a time. To judge whether the meat is baked well, it mainly depends on the color of the meat and the situation of the oil. At the beginning, the amount of oil went more, the frequency of dripping oil was relatively fast, like raindrops, when it was almost baked, the oil went almost, the color of the meat became darker and darker, and it took a few seconds to drop a drop of oil, even if it was basically baked. At eight or nine o'clock in the morning, the shop guy used a hook to pick the freshly baked stove meat to the front shop. As soon as the store door opened, the fragrance overflowed outside the store, causing passers-by to salivate.
Women in the Qing Dynasty did not participate in the wedding and birthday soup cake celebration ceremony of relatives and friends, and only then did they go to the major rice villages to give a part of the congratulations, and they casually entered the restaurant to eat and drink a meal on weekdays, which can be said to be less and less. Some people send people a roast duck or a side of the stove meat in order to set up a near, the sender does not pay much, the recipient's whole family can eat its taste, which is why the barbecue was popular in the early years. In 1938, Tianfu pioneered telephone ordering of stove meat in Beijing and arranging bicycle delivery to the door.
The cooked meat is slightly yellow and crispy on the surface of the meat skin, and the part of the meat is fat but not greasy, lean and chewy, soft and tender. When cutting, put the roasted meat on the case, the skin of the meat is facing down, the meat is facing up, the knife feels crisp and sound, and it can be eaten after cutting into thin slices. At this time, buying home dipped in high soy sauce under the wine, is the general long-term living in Beiping gourmets cheap and delicious cuisine.
The residue after the hearth meat is cut, which is the raw material for making the stove meatballs. It is to mix the meat residue with starch paste, knead it into a flat round meat cake, put it in a frying pan and fry it, and when it is cooked, it becomes a stove meatball. At that time, in addition to famous shops such as Tenfu, which sold stove meatballs, large and small pork shops also sold stove meatballs.
There are many ways to eat stove meat, JuxianTang's specialty dish "fried bell double juice" is fried with stove meat, plus sweet and salty hook juice double pouring, take the wine, more bite, resistant to chewing. The most representative home-style eating methods are:
Boiled cabbage: Using hearth meat slices, cabbage, and sea rice as the main ingredients, adding an appropriate amount of spices and stewing. The soup is fat like milk, bright in color, and properly matched, which is a unique way to eat in winter. The method is: first put the sea rice in a pot and stew into a white soup, add jade colored cabbage, add red stove meat, simmer over low heat to make the cabbage cooked, add an appropriate amount of green onion and ginger juice, pepper water, salt, sugar and monosodium glutamate and other ingredients. When this dish is made, it is completely formed, and the stove meat is perfected when it is touched. Similar to this dish, the cabbage is boiled in a stove meatball, which also has a unique flavor.
Steamed stove meat: This is the most typical way to eat stove meat. After being made, the skin is red and the flesh is white, the layers are clear, the fat is not greasy, and the fragrance is beautiful. Directions: A pound of neatly shaped stove meat, cut into rectangular slices about 10 cm long and 0.3 cm thick. Then cut the winter melon slices into slices slightly thicker than the meat slices. First, place the skin of the meat in a bowl with the skin of the stove facing down, top with slices of winter melon, add green onion, ginger, salt, cooking wine and a small amount of clear soup, and steam on high heat for 20 minutes. Decant the soup and close the bowl in the soup dish. The soup is filtered over the hearth winter melon slices. In addition, the soy sauce tofu is crushed into a paste, and the leek flowers and chili oil are placed in the saucer. Steamed meat is served and served with condiments in a saucer.
Stove meat assorted hot pot: this dish is beautiful in shape, not scattered and not chaotic, the soup is delicious and delicious, light and elegant, and it is a beijing winter holiday or hospitality. Directions: Cut the vermicelli short, cut the cabbage into chunks and blanch, and place the two products evenly at the bottom of the pot. Then cut the meat into rectangular slices and place them in three piles on top of the cabbage vermicelli in the hot pot. Shiitake mushrooms, carrot slices, and blanched rape hearts are each garnished between the meats, and then placed in the middle of the hot pot with water-haired silver ear fungus. Cook another pot of clear soup, add an appropriate amount of green onion and ginger water, pepper, salt, cooking wine, etc. to taste, filter out the foam, and pour into the hot pot. Bring to a boil and serve.
In fact, the stove meat with kelp, the winter vegetables in the north, the rotten bamboo, the dried plum vegetables in Jiangsu and Zhejiang, the dried vegetables in Guangdong, and even the sweet taste of glutinous rice and red bean paste, can not be wrong, but can not be fried back to the pot meat, a stir-fry is rotten as mud.
On November 22, 2006, The seventh generation of Tianfu, Teacher Wang Shouxiang, grilled the stove meat that had been extinguished for 53 years, so that the old Beijingers could taste the long-lost stove meat again. "Eat the hearth meat, and die blind!" "Roasted cabbage in the hearth!" "It's been lost for more than 50 years, and I only ate it when I was a kid." Old Beijing stove meat is once again sought after, including many young people who have never eaten it.
Traditionally, roast duck and hearth meat are eaten after autumn and into winter, and they are also seasonal, because the north at that time is easy to dry these two things. Now, although roast duck can be eaten all year round, Tianfu still insists on selling stove meat only when it is in season, so the time for stove meat to be listed is only from November to the end of February every year, and at the latest to early March, depending on the climate.
On the basis of the original taste of the Tianfu, the teachers and masters of the Tianfu have figured out more ways to eat the stove meat: there is a way to eat the freshly baked, crispy and tender hearth meat directly dipped in soy sauce; there is a way to eat the hearth meat kneaded with balls and boiled cabbage; there is a way to eat plum vegetables (or winter vegetables, tofu bamboo) button meat; and there is also a fresh but not greasy, fruity and fragrant stove meat hot pot (stove meat as the bottom of the pot). There are many ways to eat stove meat, in the words of the teachers and masters - "Eat as much as you want!" ”