1
Saying that the old version of "Tea House" is the peak of the drama should not be sprayed by many people, after all, no matter how small the roles in it are, the actors are everyone's style. From the old master Zhu Xu who said "Is there still a Wang Fa here?" to the big fool Yang who was only responsible for playing the cattle bone plate. In the second act, the big fool Yang gave the Wang Treasurer a happy reward but did not get it, just when the cannon was fired outside the city, the old Yang Shunzui gave the treasurer a sentence: "Yes, you open, he opens the cannon, tomorrow he will sing the Eight Wax Temple." "This disgusting thing is not too big.
"Eight Wax Temple" is an exceptionally lively martial arts drama, with many characters, plot twists and turns, plus martial arts is hot, in the current words, it is called a big drama with its own traffic. This scene is rare, because there are too many characters, and the weight of the actors must be roughly equal to hold up. At that time, it was a pick-and-drop system, and the big names in each industry were all theater bosses themselves, and it was difficult to save them in a play. Unless it is a "big obligation play" of public welfare, "Eight Wax Temple" often serves as a "big obligation play".
"Eight Wax Temple" as a "great obligatory play" is usually performed on the twenty-third day of the waxing moon. On this day, the box was sealed, and the Pear Garden Guild in Beiping came forward to organize the major top cards to perform charity performances, and all the ticket money was donated to the low-level actors in the industry, so that they could have a full mouth for the New Year, so this "Eight Wax Temple" was figuratively called "Wowotou Society". The big fool Yang's pun on "tomorrow will sing the Eight Wax Temple": on the one hand, he said that you would not be peaceful and angry when you opened tomorrow; on the other hand, he said that your sale was also a "nest head society" at the end. Old Beijing is the most polite, scolding people must not take dirty words, who takes who loses the scene.
The reason why this "nest head meeting" is particularly brilliant, just the major gods are not in place, the most gimmicky is that the major gods all appear in reverse strings, screwing with the work, and there is no violation, which is interesting and tight. The hardest and most interesting one was in 1921, when the Liyuan Guild was renamed the "Zhengle Yuhua Association", and the people who came were all monumental figures in the history of Peking Opera, serious immortals fighting:
Zhang Guilan of Yang Xiaolou, Ya Gui of Liu Hongsheng, Huang Tianba of Mei Lanfang, Xiao Zhang Ma of Hao Shouchen, Jin Dali of Shang Xiaoyun, Chu Biao of Wang Yaoqing, and Zhu Guangzu of Gao Qingkui.
"Living Guan Gong" plays a yakuza, "Live Cao Cao" plays an old mother, "Peking Opera Three Sages" came out yang and Mei, simply swapped roles, this taste, too top. It's like cooking a pot of seasonal food on the fifteenth day of the first month, the northerners look at a Lantern, clip it up and bite it open, and stuff it with a fresh and salty meat dumpling; the southerners aim at the guy under the tangyuan and put it in their mouths to eat, sweet date paste, hawthorn or five kernels. The scene does not have to guess, the custodian has big eyes and small eyes, and his face is confused and angry.
Therefore, the drama can be reversed, and the more you twist the crowd, the happier you are. If you can't eat, you can't get into trouble with a twist.
Salt and sugar, two small white particles on the Chinese taste buds a piece of bounce for more than three thousand years, do not know who mixed with whom, anyway has been mixed with a philosophical dialectical relationship: the old cook knows "to be sweet, add some salt" and "do salty, put some sugar". The funny thing is that the two brothers themselves are intimate, relying on the two groups of people who rely on the brothers to solve the worms, but they play the "map cannon" script to kill, beat the chicken blood, and send chicken feathers to the ground.
The protagonists of the script are sweet and salty, but the charge is two kinds of glutinous rice (called jiangmi in the north) as the main ingredient: tangyuan (Lantern) and zongzi, like an agent war. The war began with a strange sense of joy: the sweet and salty regional drinking positioning was originally "sweet and salty in the south"; when it came to the glutinous rice expedition, the shooting elements of the "map cannon" were adjusted to "north sweet and southern salty". Instantly remembering the movie "Mine Warfare" that I used to watch when I was a child, the old devil who rode a small donkey and wore a white towel and makeup to steal the thunder stole the thunder back to show a strange and joyful smile. And then... Exploded, devils... Hang up.
How joyful this "war" is, how boring it is. For example, the use of tangyuan bars lanterns is purely a big blow, not equal at all. Lantern in the north is a fifteenth day of the first month of seasonal goods, did not see Daoxiang Village, Guixiang Village after the right day still shake the Lantern at the door of the store, but also rarely see who is out of the first month and remember to cook bowls of Lantern as rice to eat. Tangyuan is different, it is a kind of daily meal in the south, and at that time, it and wontons are divided into the role of dumplings in the north.
I am in Jiangnan, the season into the winter, every season, always to the local indigenous people to send a soul question: "Tomorrow XX, I should eat dumplings, what do you eat?" "This XX can be a winter, a winter solstice, a small year, a Chinese New Year's Eve or any day in the new year, until the Qingming Festival, another large glutinous rice dumpling "Qingtuan" to take over.
The people of Jiangnan answered the question of my soul, and some of them were extremely determined, known as "Tangyuan" or "Wonton"; some were slightly weak-hearted: "Wontons, right?" Or tangyuan. "In short, the two must be one of them, and many times it is still Tang Yuan's husband and wife." I will sneak a laugh, you often satirize the northerners rough, eat dumplings every festival. As a result, we are half a pound against eight two, the eldest brother Mo Xiao second brother, in short, all eat the stuffing is right.
But after all, the filling and the filling are still very different, and the big ones are competing: one is whether the glutinous rice and the meat can be happy together; the other is whether the sweet and salty in the glutinous rice shell should not be separated.
2
Outside Wuxi City, Taihu Lake, inner canal, water to live, bustling, quiet are on the water to take a wisp of her soul.
In the middle of the city, a long south street has picked up several ancient bridges along a canal. On both sides of the water, there are merchants operating in Jiangnan Ancient Residences, all of which are two-story small buildings with white walls and black tiles. Here the day is thick and the night is noisy, which has the taste of "Tokyo Dream Record". The difference, more exquisite ears in Jiangnan, is the most prosperous fireworks in Xicheng.
Go to this bustling, no more miles, there is a verdant continent in the middle of the water. A few pieces of pavilion tiles and drip eaves of flowers flashed at the verdant. Cross the covered bridge to Texas, stroll into the Moon Gate, basho listen to the rain serving the window, the little finches chirp occasionally make sounds, and the letter is quietly also.
Wuxi called this kind of water continent "Dun", which was called "West Water Pier" outside the original Wuxi City West Gate Water Pass, and is now the Municipal Cultural Center. A quiet place in the water, but it has become a popular cultural place, with a bit of "entering and retreating From The Sect" philosophy. The wind on the west pier is extremely jiangnan, and the buildings are all Qing Dynasty cultural relics, which is inevitable. A few years ago, Meng Dong held a celadon exhibition in the Gongzi Hall here, and he was able to spend a while here every day.
Daily discord is inevitable. The old man went out, the thief did not go empty, and the surrounding snacks were already clear on the second day. Out of the west pier across an old stone bridge, into a school of city well fireworks. The small alleys are mostly small shops specializing in a certain kind of local food. In Gangnam, such shops usually do not step on the thunder. In the days that followed, it was an early morning to eat three or four times in this alley. When you get out of the alley, turn right for tens of meters, only to find that the alley is only the top key, and the main theme is originally here: there is a vegetable market.
Most of the walking foodies adhere to some absolute laws to forage, "unswervingly go to the old vegetable farm" is one of them. The vegetable market in the old residential area has been beaten by the indigenous people of several generations with the faith on the taste buds, and they always flutter at the hungry people in the smokey darkness, especially the food stalls located at the gate.
I stood at the gate of the small wooden bridge vegetable market, touching a large cauldron within reach of my hand, the pure white thick soup in the pot tumbled, and dozens of large round fat people with smooth floating sacs suddenly appeared. Suddenly I remembered Guo Degang's usual fixed-scene poem in early cross-talk: "Looking at the flickering from a distance, looking at the fluttering and shaking from close up, not the gourd is not a scoop, it turned out to be a monk bathing." An inexplicable sense of joy rushed out from his heart, and he strolled into the tangyuan stall with no doors and no walls, three pillars and four small tables.
When you sit down, you know that it is advisable to eat tangyuan here, which is simply immediate. Above the mouth, I reported several kinds of fillings I wanted, and in an instant, four big white fat people soaked in the soup bowl had come up, which surprised me greatly. I don't know whether it is that people's business is hot, and there will be people in the pot who will not press the goods; or people are bold and bold, the process is unique, and they are not afraid of rotting.
The dumplings are large, long boiled and swollen, straight like the size of a baby's fist. The texture of glutinous rice is also presented to the maximum under the long-boiled, and there are very small pores on the skin that are stretched out, but the whole is glowing with a smooth and delicate soft light, much like the old jade that has been playing on the plate for many years and wrapping the pulp smoothly. Although the tangyuan is round, it is still like being sucked out of the soul after cooking for a long time, and it cannot stand up half-flat. But it was still elastic, trembling in the porcelain spoon, and it was possible to squeeze out the little soup water that had been put in. Just this naughty, like a Jigong sneaking into the skin bag of Maitreya Buddha, white fat, kind and funny.
Glutinous rice skin is not sticky teeth, it and the teeth of the move such as Tai Chi push hand, you into me retreat, you retreat I into, seemingly dragging mud with water is actually want to divide it refreshingly and sharply apart. After biting open a small opening, like a vacuum device leaking wind, the delicate white skin slipped and fell in all directions, and the filling was gently shrugged out gorgeously, living out of the reverie of a beautiful person bathing and half exposing his shoulders.
Four fillings, two salty: fresh meat, shredded radish, two sweet: black sesame seeds, lard greens. Black sesame filling is recognized as the traditional head of tangyuan, just like the five kernels in the moon cake, whether you like it or not, you must always recognize the status of the jianghu. This wuxi black sesame is extra mellow than the extra heavy oil elsewhere. The other three, at least most northerners, are related to them.
Wuxi's red fresh meat filling tap water is extremely high, whether it is in the small cage, meat bun or tangyuan. The fresh meat filling in the tangyuan in front of me is even more outstanding, although the meatballs are small, they are comparable to a small cage filling, and their appearance and courage are the same as the famous Hongyun big bags. Red, oily, fresh and sweet is the basic skill of tin-style fresh meat, needless to say, it is rare that the richness of meat should collide with the toughness of glutinous rice, knocking out a different kind of flower head.
The skin of the tangyuan is, in the final analysis, the rice for the noodles. To make glutinous rice flour and knead it repeatedly, it is essentially the same as the noodles. So like the dough, glutinous rice skin has another similar texture: soft and sticky. This is also similar to the temperament of the characters in Jiangnan Water Town, Wu Nong's soft language sounds delicate, provoking the same Zheng Zheng's loud voice to scare you. This toughness is different from the strength of the road, it can be invisible and can send some aftertaste, the rich aroma of the meat filling is mellow and mellow, it is not a fusion of bun filling and dough, but a bullet to pop out of the slightest interest. This meaning is the mutual teasing of taste and touch, and the word "bump" is just right. When I was learning the piano, I was able to understand the "advance and retreat re-annotation", and I encountered a "collision" fingering, which was greatly puzzled. Teacher's explanation: You imagine a soft wall in front of you, bumping into it, and immediately being bounced back in half, and shaking your body three times. After listening to it, it seems to be enlightened, the big finger strokes the string, only a virtual wall in front of it, according to this solution a "collision", and sure enough, the empty sound is swirling. The "collision" of glutinous rice and meat balls is also such a charm, which is probably the happy goo.
Shredded radish and lard greens are probably common in Jiangnan and difficult to see elsewhere. White radish filaments plus a little meat filling, with meat oil to moisten into a crisp and soft ball, slightly with some strands of chewy, and then with the glutinous rice is not clearly entangled, there is a bit of dream plum will be beautiful lady of the strange pity. Lard greens are roughly similar to Yangzhou green vegetable bun fillings, and the blessing of glutinous rice peels in different places makes it sweet and silky. These several tangyuan real products, and later in Wuxi all over the vegetable market, ancient towns, streets and alleys to find a lot of tangyuan shops, always less than this.
This Jiangnan tangyuan is good, and it is good that the glutinous rice is generously mixed with meat. In addition to the fresh meat filling, there are several other kinds of lard that are also inseparable. What is rightful in this southern drink is enough to be rebellious in the eyes of northerners.
An authentic northerner whose taste still adheres to the "original" must not see that meat is related to rice (glutinous rice), nor can it see that the taste of rice is not sweet but salty.
Tangyuan's northern cousin is the Lantern, and the Lantern Filling is not salty and meat-free, but will only be hawthorn, bean paste, wuren, etc. that are highly similar to the mooncake. The output of the Lantern is more ornamental than the tangyuan. Unlike tangyuan, which can be wrapped in just a pair of vegetarian hands, the Lantern System is called "shake": a huge dried rice noodle with a basket and a pot of hard fillings cut into small pieces. Gently tap the filling, pour in the dry powder basket and shake it vigorously so that each filling is glued to a layer of dry powder. Sprinkle and shake again, and keep repeating. The dry powder is covered layer by layer, and finally transformed into a small white ball, and the Lantern is made.
The taste of the outer skin is not delicate, but there is a ubiquitous fine coarseness in the sticky. Geinbei people make noodles is the master kung fu, there is no need to use rice to copy the dough, but want rice must be different from noodles. Such a texture of the crust, can not provide a collision between Jiangnan and meat filling, it is inevitable not to think of meat. One or the other.
Second, the understanding of dim sum is very different from the north and the south. For southerners, all non-authentic foods that can be used for small meals, tea and special flavors can be classified as dim sum, so soup noodles, wontons, soup buns, tangyuan, etc. can be classified as dim sum. In the north, dim sum refers to seasonal or zero-food pastries (Manchu so-called dumplings), and most of the dim sum in the south is rice here. It is a northern dim sum that may have lard into the filling to make a puff pastry, but there will never be a filling with buns and dumplings.
This realization is related to the Manchus. The concept of rao is brought into the capital by the eight flags into the capital and then expanded to the north, and the dumplings are the high-calorie (so choose to put sugar) prepared by the flag people, dry and hard, and then store the easy-to-carry cakes to eat, so that they can be eaten at any time on the horse, and they are not bad for a long time. Northern pastries come from this, and due to this historical logic, it does not matter whether it is high or low, right or wrong. Lantern or boiled or fried, a member of the dim sum, it must be so.
3
There is a cloud inside the cross-talk door: "Wen is afraid of the article, Wu is afraid of the big bodyguard." The "big bodyguard" is the most hard-working, in addition to saying it well, he also has to whip beautifully on his body, and the living famous young horse master is the best in this section.
The rhythm and size of shao ma ye are accurate, and if it wants to explode, it will sink first and then explode, which seems calm and unsmiling, which is much higher than the boss Guo's blind hanging voice. The tone of voice often falls naturally at the tail, revealing a ripe northern city wisdom. The names of the brothers were reported in the "Big Bodyguard": "One is called Sugar, the other is called Stuffing", and this is it. Every taste here. Of course, southerners will certainly not touch the laughing muscles when they hear it, because they don't know what the baggage means.
Register here, and the need to follow the sentence: "Well, two small rice dumplings." "This is a pair of door gods of the northern zongzi, or even the whole of the traditional zongzi in the north." Stuffing" is a rice dumpling with a filling, and this filling often refers only to one: dried red dates, so it is also called "Jiangmi jujube"; "white sugar" is pure white rice dumplings, peeled and dipped in sugar and eaten, which is unique and unique in the Chinese rice dumpling industry.
Sweetness is the main taste that brings happiness to humans. From a certain point of view, dipping in sugar and eating is the image of Mu Lin's ancient style and domineering side leakage. The Book of Rites and Internal Rules records that a daughter-in-law serving her in-laws should be served with a variety of good ingredients, including:
Dates, chestnuts, carrots, and honey are sweet.
Give the elderly sweet food and even filial piety. At the same time, eating sweet is also the act of the waiter, because the sweetness is not easy to come by and the cost is huge, Yuan Shu died of anger because of the defeat of the soldiers and the inability to ask for honey water. Dates, chestnuts, and honey are all directly used in the ingredients themselves, but these sweets are difficult to use widely in cooking. The common way to cook sweet taste is still to get sugar. "Rao" is sugar, maltose, the main source of sweetness that was first refined and applied in China.
The ancient chinese word for sugar is "饧". "Explanation of Words":
Dumplings, rice tillers fried also.
It is to take all kinds of grains with high starch content, take their young shoots and then boil them to evaporate and crystallize to obtain sugar. In the Book of Poetry, there are words such as "rao" and "rao", and sugar was already a source of happiness for the sons of heaven and princes in the Zhou Dynasty. The Qi Min Zhi Shu (Qi Min Zhi Shu Shu It can be seen that more than a thousand years ago, the north was the important town of sugar industry. At that time, being able to eat candy with a big horse and a golden knife and eat candy was probably done by those five-bearded people in the Northern Dynasty who wore heads, round neck shirts, and cowhide boots. This gene is stored in the body of the Northern people, and it is not known whether it will be unsealed by zongzi as soon as the Dragon Boat Festival arrives.
White rice dumplings dipped in sugar eighty percent intend to chase gaogu, love this mouthful of the northern people can silently recite "the road to Jane" and look up and eat. But I can't, on the issue of zongzi, I still become a taste traitor in the north, and I still love the big meat dumplings in the south that are moistened with oil.
In "Divine Eagle Hero", Yang Guo asked Cheng Ying for rice dumplings, and Cheng Ying said that you are so smart, and guessed that I was from Jiaxing. During the Southern Song Dynasty, Jiaxing was already widely debated, but the status of Jiaxing Zongzi, especially meat Dumplings, was no one questioned, and Ningbo Sesame Tangyuan was the two top brands in the southern glutinous rice industry. In the early years, the first time I ate Wufangzhai meat dumplings, it seemed that there was a yuan god jumping up, and I turned over two heels out of the mud palace before being dragged back by the glutinous rice fat meat.
The aggression of meat dumplings is far more aggressive than sweet dumplings, and it is all shiny. The texture of the leaves is similar to the amber bamboo carvings that have been painted for hundreds of years. The bundled hemp rope was also dyed a sauce color, and the hemp rope was occasionally squeezed out of several grains of blood-like glutinous rice, which was half transparent and half-hung, and zhenzhen wanted to attract shame and shame. The air is also filled with the aroma of meat, between braised pork and sauced meat, or because of the entanglement of glutinous rice, this aroma is hesitant to go in the nasal cavity, like an old yellowed wine that is bound to hang on the side of the glass. Hungry people should be here, which one still has grace, disregard the hands dripping, hurry up and peel it off.
Peeled off, it is a small, compact rice mountain, ice-carved jade, but the sauce is red and shiny throughout. Strangely, peeling off, the lethality of the aroma seemed to be less so great. Maybe it's no longer wanting you to linger in the skin, but to discover the material soul. This soul is a large piece of fat meat that is as brutal as a mountain thief after tearing open the layer of rice, half turned into oil, and the other half is white and transparent like a puddle frozen stone in Shoushan Mountain. At this time, the meat eater will see the hunter's joy, and must swallow a large mouthful of glutinous rice with the surrounding area, and the grease in the mouth will flow instantly, pure and slag-free. The grain of rice is like a leaf ark in the sea of oil, and it is like a boat in the sea of oil, and it is full of thoughts and paramitas.
The soul enters, such as the throne of Da'an, but the mind is fixed on the lean meat and glutinous rice. The lean meat is not woody, and the taste is just like the hoof essence meat that has been simmered for three hours; not to mention the glutinous rice, the fat and thin two junjun both send half of their thoughts to her, how can they not miss each other and dream of it. Count the bites and eat the whole one, it must be even more silent, just take another one. Yu Zeng tried four at a time, and mozzily belly and ambition, but forgot that the northerners' stomach stickiness was far inferior to that of the southerners, so they stagnated for several days and cried out in vain.
Since more than ten years ago, Jiaxing meat dumplings have begun a market journey. "Wufangzhai" and "Changji" two brands into the high-speed service area set up files. In the past ten years, more than one year has been running on the highway from Jiangnan to Beijing, and it is common to buy meat dumplings as meals in the service area. Seeing that it went all the way north from northern Zhejiang and southern Jiangsu to Shandong, hebei and Tianjin are now available. The price also saw that it went all the way from 3 yuan to 8 yuan, but the quality was not as good as before. Before guarding the portal, large pieces of stuffed meat must be marinated for a long time before it can be wrapped, and now it is obvious that the meat is no longer cured, only the raw meat is mixed with water and then wrapped into raw meat to meet the market, the taste is dull, and the road is not clear. I really saw him rise up a tall building, saw him feast on guests, saw his building crooked, and I don't know if the back collapsed.
In "Deer Ding", Wei Xiaobao stayed at the Zhuang family overnight, and the Zhuang family rewarded him with a bunch of meat dumplings, and Wei Xiaobao praised you Huzhou Zongzi as unparalleled in the world. It is not only Jiaxing, but also around Taihu Lake. Suzhou, Wuxi, Huzhou and even Yixing all the way to eat, the best is still in the family, from jiangnan so-called "old aunts" of the production, really change at will, the character is the same.
The city is not ancient, but the wilderness of seeking. Wild with vines and zero dew. Sure enough, this is a truth.