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Generally speaking, when visiting a city, there can be two places that make people linger: one place to play and one place to eat. Play in the place or scenery is particularly good, pleasing to the eye, pleasant feelings, can be both majestic and dangerous, can also be delicate and quiet, in short, care about the landscape between the mountains and rivers, care about the beauty of the building; eat the place is more exquisite, usually should go to taste the flavor specialties that can represent the characteristics of a city, in order to appreciate the city's folk customs. In this sense, "eating" and "seeing" are the same and different, the same is that both can get cultural pleasure, the difference is "eating", in addition to being able to get spiritual satisfaction and enjoyment with a full eye, you can also get the enjoyment of appetite, in other words, enjoy the flavor of a certain city, but also bring people the pleasure of participation. Based on this, if you come to Wuhan to visit, there are very few tourists who do not visit the "Little Peach Garden" simmering soup restaurant.
In its early years, Wuhan was not a tourist destination city. In the big concept of a chess game of national tourism, Wuhan has served as a transit hub between various tourist destinations because of its transportation advantages. Some people joke that the scenic spots that Wuhan can "see" add up to "two dishes and one soup": Wuchang Snake Mountain Yellow Crane Tower, Hanyang Guiyuan Temple and East Lake; the Ecai dishes that can be "eaten" to flavor are only "two fish, one vegetable, and one can of soup", and the two fish refer to "Wuchang fish of Greater China" and "roasted fish of Lao Daxing"; a vegetable refers to fried Hongshan vegetables; and a pot of soup refers to "simmered chicken soup from a small peach orchard". "Two fish, one vegetable" The author has a special article to describe, this article is about "chicken soup in the small peach orchard".
Chudi drinking and eating customs, very particular about drinking soup. Especially in rural townships, what peasant woman does not serve a few hens? Making a simple simmered chicken soup has become the best food for the usual guests, the lord knows early that there are guests coming, so he kills the hen, plucks the hair, chops it into pieces, adds some salt, puts it into the crock pot, closes the lid, puts the crock pot in the stove fire, and then picks up some burnt grass and wood ash between the stoves, nestles next to the crock pot, and simmers for four or five hours. When the guests arrive, the host brings out the simmered chicken soup from the stove and gives it to the guests, so that the guests can eat chicken and drink chicken soup while it is hot, which is called one hot and three fresh. In the customs of the countryside around Wuhan, the new son-in-law must drink chicken soup when he comes to the door, and must eat two chicken legs, and must not resign. Inviting the son-in-law to drink soup is not only the mother-in-law's hospitality, in fact, it implicitly contains the meaning of examining the son-in-law's ability to treat people, and the mother-in-law can observe the family upbringing, family situation and other information from the details of the future son-in-law's eating chicken and drinking soup. Some son-in-law eats badly, picks up the chicken and takes a big gulp, takes the soup bowl to drink, it will often be ugly, the hot soup and chicken are not very good to eat, so Wuhan has a satirical remark about the son-in-law with bad hairy feet: "The simmering soup does not breathe, and the son-in-law is burned to death", that is, the son-in-law is not very bright, and the handling of things is not comprehensive.
The inheritance and inheritance of long-standing food customs has made simmering soup a major feature of Wuhan people's diet, to a large extent, "drinking soup" is synonymous with "inviting guests to eat", and even has "no soup is not a table", "no soup is not invited", "no soup is not respectful". It can be seen that simmering chicken soup occupies an extraordinary position in the lives of Wuhan people.
The "Little Peach Garden" restaurant, which features simmered soup, is the concrete embodiment of the characteristics of Wuhan simmered soup.
"Little Peach Garden" has a history of more than 60 years. The founder of "Little Peach Garden" is named Tao Kunfu and one is Yuan Dezhao. Tao and Yuan were originally cooks at the Hospice Hospital in Hankou, but in the winter of 1938, the Japanese bombed Hankou and destroyed the hospital, leaving them to find a way out for themselves. Tao Kunfu found a vacant lot on the ruins of Lanling Road and built a small shed to sell snacks such as soybean milk and glutinous rice wrapped fritters. Yuan Dezhao also came with him to blow up the noodle nest. The two men's business is light and they have to struggle to make ends meet. Not far from Lanling Road, there is a small shop selling Bagua (turtle) soup and beef soup business is good, the two people think, Wuhan people like to drink soup, want to imitate others to open a soup restaurant, so the two decided to two tables together, two stoves together, the partnership to sell beef soup and Bagua soup. When Tao Kunfu was working as a cook in the hospital, he studied the simmering soup, and the two worked hard on the materials, and the beef and turtles they entered were very fresh, and the methods were extremely exquisite. After the fall of Wuhan, the small sheds of Tao and Yuan miraculously survived, and more and more people came here to drink soup, and there were often people waiting in line outside the small sheds. Tao and Yuan's soup house simmered delicious soup, but it has never had a name. Some familiar customers suggested that the soup restaurant put up a signboard to facilitate guests to recognize the door, Tao, Yuan two people a total, decided to imitate the "Romance of the Three Kingdoms" in the "Taoyuan Three Knots" story, named after the two surnames, because they only have two, they want to add another "small" word, and "small" word only 3 strokes, afraid that the business can only do 3 days, it was changed to a "筱" character with 13 strokes, which has the name of the store "Xiao Tao Yuan". The signboard of "Shinobu Peach Garden" was hung for decades, and later, some people felt that the word "筱" was not recognizable, and people changed "筱" to "Small", so it was named "Little Peach Garden", and the name of the shop has been followed to this day.
"Little Peach Garden" simmered soup is famous all over the world, in fact, thanks to Wang Yinsheng, a soup expert sitting in town. The most proud thing for people who come to "Little Peach Garden" to visit the soup is to drink chicken soup and watch the process of making soup, especially to see the famous master Wang Yinsheng personally on the stove, which will naturally make you drink a little flavor. Watching Wang Yinsheng cook chicken soup is indeed an interesting thing. The old yellow hens produced in Huangpi and Xiaogan areas of Hubei Province are slaughtered and hairless, the head, feet and internal organs are removed (only the gizzards, liver and heart are left), washed with water, and chopped into rectangular pieces. Wash the green onion white and pat the ginger pieces loose. Put the pot on the high heat, add cooked lard to 80% heat, add the white onion, ginger pieces to fry the aroma, then add chicken nuggets, gizzards, liver, heart, cooking wine, fine salt and stir-fry until the aroma is yellow, put it into the crock pot, add enough water at a time, simmer on the high heat, and then slowly simmer on a low heat, until the soup is thick. Wang Yinsheng seemed to be changing magic, and in an hour, the black crock pot contained yellow and shiny chicken soup, and he could be served as a guest. There is no hot air, only a seductive light butter color, slowly drink a sip, the soup is very delicious, there is the aroma of authentic chicken soup, if it is a chicken raised by hand, it is absolutely unable to simmer this color. After drinking three or five sips, the piping hot and delicious soup soothes the tongue, warms the stomach, and enjoys the desire of the mouth and the stomach.
In the closed planned economic era, by word of mouth, "Xiao Taoyuan" once had unlimited scenery, and the "Wuhan Chronicle of Commerce" recorded a popular sentence at that time - "Don't drink chicken soup from Xiao Taoyuan, come to Wuhan in vain", which is the best explanation for the great reputation of "Xiao Taoyuan" at that time. Even if it is today when the varieties of drinking and eating are blooming, visiting the soup to come to the "Little Peach Garden", whether from the perspective of tasting food, or from the perspective of inspecting the folk customs of the city, foreign tourists to the "Little Peach Garden" to drink soup, will not be a white run without harvest!
Born from eating, speaking culture
——"Chu Tian Talks About Eating" was published and distributed
"Chu Tian Talks About Eating" published by Baihua Literature and Art Publishing House, is a collection of essays on Hubei food culture written by mr. Zeng Qingwei, a writer and food critic, according to the evaluation of Zhang Xianfeng, president of the Hubei Provincial Culinary Hotel Industry Association, "Chu Tian Talks About Eating" is a good book that is "not a story story, not a recipe recipe, not an allusion to an allusion"; Chinese culinary master Lu Yongliang has always advocated, "to do a dish with a story, to do a cultured dish", after reading this book, you can specifically understand those things in the diet, and it is beneficial to open the book , cooking is beneficial.
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