In a narrow alley up the slope of Ruijin North Road, colleagues who had just landed in Guiyang ate the first eye-opening Guiyang barbecue
"Is there anything sweet?" She asked me, with a look of unfinished business. A week earlier than her, I had just begun to grasp Guiyang's pastries, and I pointed to a steaming stall not far away and said, "Do you want to eat porridge?" ”
Cake porridge is a kind of magical "porridge". The white rice grains are covered with wooden dumplings, and the steam does not take a few minutes to become a hot rice dumpling, which guiyang people call cake dumplings.
The steaming process is not idle, cold water and hot water, the lotus powder is adjusted to translucent lilac. The steamed cake is safely "seated" in the center of the lotus flour, with rose sugar, melon seeds, small pieces of mochi, sesame seeds and other spices, and finally must be stirred evenly for you on the spot.
Looking at the skillful and strange operation of the uncle in front of him, the colleague's eyes rolled round, and the camera did not stop for a moment. "Why is this thing called cake?" Uncle did not answer. She ate the finished product, and curiosity gradually flooded, "This white rice noodles, right?" What does this have to do with cakes and rice dumplings? Also added rose candy and mochi, which was interesting! ”
There was surprise, confusion, delicious food, and curiosity in her expression, like me who had just landed a week ago.
A week ago, I decided to eat a Lei family tofu dumpling (poke) after putting down my luggage. Helplessly, I got lost after a while walking the streets. The navigation display is still 300 meters, but I just can't find it.
Delicious Lei family tofu dumplings
Suddenly, there was a hot sweet aroma in the air, sniffing carefully, and there was a hint of wine, like the taste of hair cake + wine cake baking at the same time, but softer.
"Grunting", the belly made a physiological response at the right time. Well, the "superior" issued the order.
Pressing "Xiang" Suo Ji, I found this "X-note brown sugar bowl ear cake" shop. A huge steamer has just been opened, the special "bowl ear cake" two dollars a piece, the queue has been queued for a long time. Hunger, curiosity and the ubiquitous aroma crushed my obsession with tofu balls, and I joined the queue decisively, even if I had no idea what it was, how to eat it, and was it delicious?
Using the queue time to chat with uncles and aunts behind and behind is an excellent cheating technique for quickly learning about authentic food in a city.
"Isn't this cake delicious?" I threw out a topic and instantly opened everyone's information sharing mode: "Its taste is OK, not sweet"; "We have eaten for decades"; "Brown sugar cake is delicious"; "Its home materials are solid, the taste is positive".
OK, that's it.
The further you go, the more you can see what the shop sells besides freshly made bowls of ear cakes and brown sugar cakes. Although it is not the Dragon Boat Festival, Zongzi occupies a small part of the steamer brightly; there are some scattered vacuum packaging in front of the steamer, some wrapped with corn leaves, some without, and the packaging reads "Western Ice Sugar Yellow Rice Dumpling".
I asked for a bowl of ear cake and a amount of brown sugar hair cake for one person, and just wanted to ask what vacuum packaging is? However, he was suppressed by the sound of people buying cakes behind him and gave up.
While hot, take a bite, the bowl ear cake is sweet and soft with a slightly sour, fluffy and light taste, and it is not too much to describe it with "air feeling"; the brown sugar hair cake has a more solid taste, and the steamed sugar hair cake adds a caramel flavor to the bowl ear cake.
Brown sugar hair cake
After the two finished eating, the belly was basically occupied by 80%, and only then did I find that behind me was the wet market! It is really willow dark flowers, winding paths, people who love to eat can always be taken care of by God.
Walking down the alley, the horizon is opened again and again.
The owner of the bicycle, the bamboo basket is placed in a white and yellow rice cake. The texture looks similar to a bowl of ear cakes, but the stomata are more pronounced and the shape is smaller. The boss said that this is called "bubble rice", "white is white sugar bubble, yellow is brown sugar bubble". I bought a white sugar one, which tastes very much like Lao Guang's Lunjiao cake, and it is very comfortable to eat cold.
Further inside, an aunt was frying something with chopsticks. She said it was called bean sand nest, one didn't hold back and bought another one, and was shocked after the first bite of it - wait, how is the bean paste stuffing salty and numb? The idea that "bean paste is sweet" has been violently impacted.
After taking another bite, I found the wonder of the bean sand nest - the crispy outer layer is not a delicate rice cake, but a texture between rice cake and rice; the bean paste stuffing is mixed with salt and pepper powder. The crispy crust, the crispy inside jumping between the lips and teeth, the combination of hearing and touch makes people can't stop, wanting to continue to have this crisp and numb stimulation.
After the bean sand nest, I couldn't eat at all, but my eyes didn't stop at all. A stall specializing in raw rice dumplings, cut into different thicknesses of rice dumplings, is lined up, and under the counter is also posted "Yellow rice dumplings, tempeh rice dumplings, Qingming rice dumplings", and then there is a pot of rice dumplings - a huge glutinous rice ball turns around on the hot iron plate to form a piece of pot bark, which is torn off and then filled with various condiments.
Staring at this variety of rice, the brain's accurate memory ability is rapidly declining, basically seeing the next one, forgetting the previous name. There are too many in Guiyang.
In the days that followed, I also ate two pieces of soft whistle fried rice dumplings – the sticky glutinous one, which was no less than the fried bait blocks in Yunnan. I asked the boss if this was not a bait block, but the moment I opened my mouth, I realized that the "two pieces" and "bait blocks" were incomparably similar; and the glutinous rice for breakfast, although the color was more and the filling was different, you could still see the shadow of the rice balls in the parcel area during the production process.
Sticky rice
In the 1930s, the Nationalist government moved the capital to Chongqing, and Guiyang became an important gateway for the entire southwest and southeast to enter Chongqing. Later, in the 1960s, the national third-line construction plan moved the original industries in East China and Northeast China inward, and also brought another batch of "immigrants" to Guiyang.
With their arrival, Guiyang's diet continues to enrich and blossom.
Guiyang in the 1930s welcomed people from all over the country
But Guiyang also has a magic power, that is, under the promotion of time, assimilating and absorbing all foreign diets.
For example, cake porridge, Qingyan Ancient Town, a long-established Xie family boss Xie Laobo remembers that his whole family are fleeing from the north, to the local porridge for a living, slowly integrated the local elements, there is a similar cake porridge food. Or the similarity between the two pieces of rice and the bait, the bowl of ear cakes on Nanjing Road in the memory of the old Guiyang people...
The making of bowl ear cakes
It seems that Guiyang is rich and colorful, and if you look inside, you can always find inextricable answers in the once diverse population structure.
Back in Beijing, the soup still occupies the brain's main desire space. I called out to my friend in Guiyang and found a Guiyang pan that looked authentic.
The task of ordering is definitely him - beef tongue, stinky tofu, beef, potatoes... Suddenly he asked, "Did you eat yellow rice in Guiyang?" I didn't have one", which made me instantly recall the vacuum-wrapped bags at the entrance of the bowl and ear cake shop.
Huang Cang
"What is Huang Cang?" Why do some have leather wrappers and some don't? I threw out the curiosity that had been buried for a long time, only to see his eyes widen, "No, you really haven't eaten huangshu?" ”
According to him, Huang Cang is basically breakfast in Guiyang. Cut open in a saucepan and fry it, "Maillard reaction, outside charred sticky, and a little sweet, take a bite while it's hot, amazing!" I was looking forward to it.
Roasted yellow rice dumplings
After a while, Huang Cang came to the table, and he began to fry in a pan and eat the first finished product, "What? I asked earnestly.
He didn't speak, frowned, chewed two more mouthfuls, and swallowed. "Order everything, eat it, but promise me, next time I go to Guiyang, according to the store I gave you to eat well?" Really delicious yellow rice is really the art of time, this does not work, very quick taste, no. ”
It seems that the next time I go to Guiyang, I don't stay for a month, I'm afraid it won't work.