Chengcheng has always felt that those small broken shops on the street are not simple.
Sometimes it's because people are willing to sit at a roadside stall and eat with their heads down with a bowl... The food is really delicious.
Those foods with unique tastes are almost always eaten sitting at roadside stalls.
In Yunnan, there are "dark cuisine" skimming, bridge rice noodles, bun roast, lacquered oil chicken...
Guangdong has a brightly lit supper food stall, and there is also a bowl of raw porridge...
Gansu has water soup mutton, Zhangye beef rice, and raft noodle sausages sitting in the streets and alleys...
So guess what city you want to say today?
Guessed right? Guiyang!
In the southwest region, the taste is rich and colorful, and the flavoring is eclectic, so that there is no shortage of food here.
But the "aroma" of Guiyang's small broken shops may be the most abundant, and it is "slightly better" than other places.
Because, win in enough uniqueness.
In the morning, the blood is strong, fat intestines, and crisp whistles have a spoonful of red oil to set off and sublimate;
In the morning, there are bean sand nests and bowls of ear cakes steaming out of the oven;
At noon, a bowl of beef powder, old vegetarian powder, accompanied by homemade side dishes, sucking, satisfied;
In the afternoon, the main venue is the tofu in the stall, a stick, a dish of dipping water with folded ear root paste pepper sour radish, to form a unified afternoon tea for Guiyang people;
In the evening, give it to the soups and water, the red hot pots, late at night, it becomes the world of barbecue.
All in all, this is the place to eat the delicious and best of the Southwest.
"The most delicious director" Chen Xiaoqing led the team through Yunnan, Chaoshan and Gansu, and then went to Guiyang this time.
Yesterday, "Flavor Origin Guiyang" was just launched, and Chengcheng couldn't wait to open it!
After watching the first two episodes, the saliva flowed all over the place: sour, spicy, sweet, weird, sticky... These charming and complex tastes feel like in the hands of Guiyang people, and they are all new tastes and experiences.
That's exactly what I felt when I first tried "sour food".
Guizhou is the place where the flavor of the southwest region is retained
Guizhou is bordered by Bashu to the north, two lakes to the east, two Guangzhou to the south, and Yunnan to the west.
It is the only province in the country without a plain, relying on the natural resources obtained from the complex terrain to break through the "dangerous terrain" of the southwest food circle.
It has become a hidden snack paradise in the southwest, and a mysterious and independent flavor reserved place.
Guiyang, the provincial capital, brings together the culinary essence of various places in Guizhou.
Even though most of the area is rugged and jungle-ridden.
In the agricultural age, it was not a blessing. But in the mountains, there is always a mountain wind and warm sunshine, as well as abundant products in the land, which has nurtured generations of Guiyang people.
It can also be said that how rough the road is, how delicious it is.
Everyone's stomach has memories, half hiding their hometown and the other half hiding their lives.
And guizhou people's stomachs, there is "acid".
The mountainous terrain here is complex, there are very few crops that can be grown, and the ingredients are scarce, but they can grow peppers.
When chili peppers were introduced to China, Guizhou became the first stop on the Yangtze River waterway.
△ Guizhou pickled rice flower fish. Figure by network
Cao Yu, a Guangdong native, said in the "History of Chinese Spicy Food", "Chili peppers have widely entered the Chinese diet when they began in Guizhou Province. ”
In the era of salt scarcity, these peppers that can stimulate the taste buds have been given the mission of "replacing salt with spicy", and have become the "next rice artifact" of the year.
Locals eat chili peppers in vegetables and can also use chili peppers as snacks;
Or mix it with dipping water, add onion, ginger, garlic, oil and salt sauce vinegar, and a small handful of fresh chili peppers and folded ear roots, plus a spoonful of piping hot soup, the umami flavor is overflowing, and the spiciness is enjoyable.
Nowadays, each snack has a corresponding spicy option, and the variety is shocking.
△ Guizhou peppers, a variety of shapes. Figure by network
The "acid" of Guiyang comes from soybeans
"Sour and spicy" Guiyang, the first representative of sour taste, is sour soup tofu.
Why not the famous sour soup fish? Because, if you want sour soup, make tofu first.
In Guiyang, not a single piece of tofu escapes the "point brine".
Most of the sour soup used to make food comes from the plate of pulp water left over from making tofu. After three days of natural fermentation, a large number of acidic bacteria are produced, and when the pulp becomes sour, it becomes a sour soup.
In earlier times, sour soup was made mainly from the juice of leftovers fermented.
Pulp water is the key to making sour soup tofu, and it is also one of the sources of raw materials for making sour soup dishes.
And sour soup tofu, not the name of a dish, but the core raw material of many soy products.
Tofu actually has a lot of articles on the Chinese table.
It is perhaps the most Philosophical food in China. Writer Lin Haiyin wrote in the book "Chinese Tofu" that Chinese the simplest and most beautiful thing about eating tofu:
"Where there is Chinese, there is tofu. Cooking as a soup, with meat and vegetarian, all suitable; sweet and sour, bitter and spicy, do as you want. ”
With a small piece of tofu, you can meet the source left and right at the Chinese table.
The locals are 100 percent creative:
Make tofu into various forms and lineages, have not been to Guizhou, you must not know that tofu has so many methods and ways to eat.
In Guiyang, people love to eat a snack made of sour soup tofu, tofu dumplings.
After brine, the tofu is dried, crushed and kneaded into dumplings under the frying pan.
Fried until the crust is crispy, it is the basic prototype of the tofu balls.
The outer skin has countless small bubbles left by the evaporation of water, like a "cave".
The inside is still soft and tender, dense tofu brain form, break open a tofu, pour a small spoonful of dipping water, two kinds of taste, the taste is fresh, see the tears flowing from the corners of the mouth without controversy...
For a long time, the rolling mountains and rivers were the biggest factor blocking communication with the outside world.
The locals are not ostentatious, stubborn, can endure hardships, and can also create food. A second creation of tofu? Much more than that.
Folk gourmets from all walks of life have also made a snack called "Love Tofu Fruit".
The sour soup tofu is soaked in alkali water for 30 minutes, and a delicate surface film will appear on the surface of the tofu.
After 8 hours of cooling, fry on an iron plate.
After a while, the tofu will swell up, and the surface membrane will form a "protective film" that looks like a small loaf of bread.
The most amazing thing is that the original solid tofu will be "reduced" to soy milk!
Tumble in this protective film, make a cut while hot, pour in some folded ear roots and dip in water, yyds!
Sour soup, yyds
Sour soup is a special diet of ethnic minorities in Guizhou and Yunnan, and is most famous for the Miaojia sour soup in Guizhou.
Here, "the sky is not sunny", the climate is humid, and the food is not easy to preserve.
Therefore, a variety of "sour food" preparation methods have been created, which has extended the storage time of food and gradually developed the habit of making acids and eating acids.
△ White acid. Figure by network
If it is just a simple fermentation sour taste, then this acid is really somewhat ordinary.
There are many types and quantities of sour soups: high acid soup, acid soup, di sour soup, clear acid soup, thick acid soup, etc.;
According to the taste of the soup, there are: salty and sour soup, spicy sour soup, spicy sour soup, fresh sour soup, astringent soup, etc.;
The raw materials of the soup are: chicken sour soup, fish sour soup, shrimp sour soup, meat sour soup, egg sour soup, tofu sour soup, mao spicy horn (tomato) sour soup, vegetable sour soup and so on...
The dishes also have meat and vegetables, the taste is different, the taste is not a taste of sour, but layered.
△ Various condiments for boiling sour soup. Figure by network
Chengcheng in Xijiang Qianhu Miao Village, ate a sour soup fish made of red acid.
There are fish and meat, meat and vegetables, the smell is slightly sour, delicious!
Between the mountains and rivers, there are also lush rice.
Later, the sour soup in the sour soup fish was basically brewed after mixing hot rice soup with tao rice water.
After entering, I found that the soup was not as heavy as I thought.
There is no heavy mouth like vinegar, white vinegar like spicy, but there is no fruity softness.
The taste is also richer, like an appetizing "dish" of a pot of sour soup fish, from light to heavy, quietly appearing and disappearing.
While you're still savoring the sour taste, the soup has a more mellow, clearer flavor, and the flavors of lemongrass, wood ginger, coriander, and chili peppers begin to appear, leaving a long aftertaste in the mouth.
△ Red sour soup fish and wood ginger seeds. Figure by network
There is a folk song: "Three days without acid, walking and jumping." ”
Everyone in Guizhou is inseparable from sour soup, and a good sour soup is inseparable from Kaili in Guizhou.
△ Kerry sour soup fish. Figure by public account "Foraging little monster"
In fact, the most famous place to eat sour soup is Kyrie.
The representative work is the Kaili sour soup fish that has appeared on the "Tip of the Tongue" and swept the country. Many Guizhou people will go to Kaili to eat sour soup fish for a mouthful of sour soup.
△ Kerry sour soup fish. Figure by network
There is a rule for eating fish in sour soup: before eating fish, you must first drink a mouthful of sour soup.
The sour soup runs down the throat, ironing comforts the entire stomach, and then a mouthful of fish fused with sour soup is the right taste.
Unlike other places, the Kaili insist on eating red acid.
△ Red sour soup. Figure by public account "Foraging little monster"
Red acid, processed on the basis of white acid.
With the special sour small tomato, a small one, sour to the extreme, plus wood ginger seeds together with fermentation again, sour, fragrant, refreshing appetizer.
△ Red acid and material. Figure by network
Nowadays, many stores in Kaili will add a little white acid for the taste.
But even if it is the same kind of acid, the stomach of the Kaili people, in the final analysis, only recognizes red acid.
Those Kaili people who go out to work will always feel that the sour of Kaili is similar, but they always feel that something is missing?
△ Gathering in the Miao area of Guizhou. Figure by network
Noodles alone are enough to make a fool of themselves
Guiyang, and a very famous bowl of intestinal noodles.
As the name suggests, the ingredients are simple: intestines, which are soft and sticky fat intestines; Wang, which is tender and smooth pig blood; and noodles, which are whole dried egg noodles.
In the small restaurant of Intestinal Noodles, order a bowl of Intestinal Noodles and see if the chef is boiling one by one.
Shake down into the boiling water, and the back strip is curled.
The bottom of the noodle bowl is covered with blanched bean sprouts, the cooked noodles are added, the delicious chicken broth is poured, and the blood, puffiness and crisp whistle are added, and finally drizzled with red oil and sprinkled with green onions.
A bowl of delicious intestinal noodles, pay attention to tender, smooth and refreshing.
Although it seems to be three very common ingredients, it is not easy to combine the taste of intestinal noodles.
The first is the fat intestine.
Fat intestines are fatty and have a heavy odor that needs to be washed and removed many times before they can be used as ingredients.
You see, animals, like people, are too greasy and not good.
Guiyang people eat intestinal noodles, and will see if the bowl of intestinal noodles is fine enough.
Some old Guiyang people eat noodles, and they will eat intestinal noodles mixed with intestinal oil obtained from boiling fat intestines, and the taste is strong.
Intestinal oil can also be used to boil chili oil.
These oils can release the aroma of peppers, the taste of red oil in the large intestine, the old Guiyang people know best.
The second is Blood Wang.
The pig blood in the intestinal noodles must be made with the blood of freshly killed pigs, so that there is no fishy taste.
Cut into thin slices less than one centimeter thick for later use, most commonly "Lao Wang".
Cooked thoroughly in the soup, the acceptance is also the highest.
People who know how to eat will order "crust".
In the boiling soup, the ripeness of the blood is controlled, the epidermis shrinks, and the inside is still tender and smooth;
To eat the ultimate taste of Blood Wang, you must find an old sausage noodle restaurant.
Under the control of the boss, the blood is put into the pot for 4 to 5 seconds, and it is quickly fished out when it is broken, so that you can taste the "tender wang" with a thin skin and soft inside.
Finally, there is the noodles.
The "noodles" of authentic intestinal noodles are different from ordinary noodles, and need to be kneaded with eggs, duck eggs and fine flour.
Roll and shape repeatedly until the noodles are yellow, or even a little crystal clear.
Some noodle shops will specially process this kind of noodles and send them to the Intestinal Wang Noodle Restaurant.
Limit the amount of noodles used in one bowl, plate into a dough, the next bowl, throw a dough, fast and accurate.
This kind of whole egg noodles, similar to Guangdong wonton noodles, is durable and durable, and it is particularly tendonous.
Rich in fat, protein, curved, elastic, a bowl of belly, can make Guiyang people not hungry after noon.
The winding "mountain road" is a must for Guiyang people to return home, and it is also a gathering place for colorful snacks.
As a snack paradise, Guiyang has a rich variety of snacks.
People who live here repeat one thing every day:
On the way home, there will always be a habit of shuttling into different stalls.
Eat the sauce burst small skewers and strange fried rice today, eat bowls of cake porridge tomorrow, and the day after tomorrow have a love tofu fruit with ice powder... The name is beautiful: walking on the mountain road takes physical strength, and eating more is strong.
The unified characteristic of these foods is quite "overbearing": sour, spicy and fragrant.
△ To eat barbecue in Guizhou, you have to grill it yourself.
This is also the essence of Guizhou's flavor, where it is condensed.
The methods and tastes of these foods seem to be indefinite and similar. But if you look closely, you can also see people's views on flavor, their seriousness about food, and their devotion to nature.
And, those behind the food, the customs and historical and cultural changes.
What about you?
Ever been to Guizhou? Did you eat anything delicious?
Feel free to share it with us in the comments section
· END ·
【Reference】
1. "Flavor Origin" 6.22 return, go to Guiyang to eat intestinal crisp whistle peppers! Author, "Flavor Planet"
2. Food Documentary "Flavor Origin Guiyang"
【Copyright Notice】
Unless otherwise marked (cover image from the Internet), the pictures in this article are from "Flavor Origin Guiyang" and its documentary series, and the copyright belongs to the author