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Wen • Zhu Xiaojian
Figure • Network
Not long ago, a friend asked to go to a restaurant with Yang Duck. This is to know that Yang duck originated from the mouth of the cave, the initial history can be traced back to the Guangxu years, the duck here to the brine duck as the main hit, duck served up, put on the brine, the taste is quite unique, although usually rarely taste duck, but also a big meal. My friend Yue Kaigui told me that the earliest Yang duck was in a rural bungalow on the side of the road in front of Gaoqiao in Changchang Village.
Dongzikou is a township not far from my home, but usually I rarely go to hang out. The "Dongzikou Township Chronicle" says its source: "In the thirty-first year of Qianlong (1766), the villagers led Yang Siyan water to irrigate Gaotian, crossed the Shahe River on the bridge, built a crossing on the bridge, and the water flowed every day, and the water seemed to flow out of the cave. At the Wenguang intersection of the Dongzikou field, there is a flat bridge named "Dong Liangzi", the bridge body is buried in the ground, and the water of the Sha river gushes out from the two holes under the bridge and rolls east. In the event of flood season, the spray water can reach tens of centimeters high, forming a wonderful landscape. This is also the strange theory of the name of the cave mouth.
When it comes to the cuisine of the cave mouth, there are always people who associate the rat hole with the duck. This shop was founded in the 1930s, the founder Zhang Guoliang from 1928 with his father in Chengdu at the intersection of TheoDu East Street and The Socks Street, selling roast duck, because the outside of the ground is a teahouse, inside is a restaurant, hotel, alley deep, small import, so it is called "Rat Hole". It has nothing to do with the mouth of the cave.
Opposite Wenshu Monastery, there is a snack bar called "Dongzikou Zhang Lao Er Liang Powder", which is mainly white cold powder and yellow cold powder. In Chengdu, similar to the Zhang Lao'er cool powder signboard, there are also Dongzikou Zhang Liang Powder and Dongzikou Zhang Lao Wu Liang Powder. Regarding the cool powder, there is a bamboo branch that says: "The bean blossom cool powder is wonderfully harmonious, and the day and day bear from the city." Giving birth to children is spicy, and the red oil is not too much in the bowl. ”
However, the most out-of-the-door at the mouth of the cave is Chen Liang powder. Many years ago, the publisher Wu Hongshang was the editor-in-chief of Sichuan Xinhua Publishing Company on Wenxuan Road, and I once used to hang out, and at noon, Wu Hong took Zhou Yajuan and a few of me to Chen Liangfan, a typical fly restaurant, but the nearby foodies loved to come, so the diners were in the door. And serving dishes and beating rice need to be hands-on, and such restaurants are rare in Chengdu. Later, Wu Hong wrote about the characteristics of this restaurant in "Sichuan Fly Restaurant on the Tip of the Tongue":
One is that there are no recipes. All the dishes are placed in the window of a table, and everything is already equipped, just order according to this order. The second is that the plates here are surprisingly large. Third, the dishes are rich, with dozens of them.
Wu Hong didn't just take us there, he also brought different friends over to eat. Naturally, it caused a lot of praise. Restaurants like this are really strange. After that, I never ate again. Now that Wu Hong has left us, if you go to Chen Liangfan again, you will think of these old things.
However, according to the "Dongzikou Township Chronicle", the cool powder of Dongzikou has been famous in the 20s and 30s of the last century is Zhao Liang powder: the earliest is the leek field two kilometers west of Changzhen Street (that is, today's Changchang Village), there is a farmer named Zhao Jinshan, the business of cool powder is very distinctive, known as Zhao Liang powder.
Zhao Liang Powder "not only has a lot of heads, the price is fair, and the taste is particularly good." He sold a veritable cold powder that was not boiled. Only red, white, and buckwheat are sold. His cold powder is spicy, spicy and fragrant, and unique. It is particularly careful in the selection of materials and processing. The main raw material of yellow and white cold powder is pea flour, he uses the best pure peas with small grinding and fine pushing, the processed cold powder texture is soft, elastic, with grain umami taste. Condiments include oil, marinade, soy sauce, garlic, etc. There are four kinds of oil, the first is cooked oil spicy seeds, he chose Dongshan Longtan Temple to produce two thorns of peppers, bought back the water red spicy seeds self-dried, made into spicy cooked oil. The second is pepper oil, which he uses authentic Hanyuan Qingxi peppercorns and scoops them into fine minced peppercorns to make peppercorn cooked oil. The third walnut oil, soaked in oil with ripe walnuts for a period of time. The fourth is sesame noodles, which are blazed with black and white sesame seeds and sprinkled on the mixed cold powder. Soy sauce is made with the famous Rhinopu tank sunbathing oil. In particular, it should be mentioned that the brine is made, which is finely boiled with the famous Taihe tempeh in Chengdu. It is said that the cold powder plus brine is the first of Zhao Liang powder. ”
Not only that, Zhao Liangfan also combed a braid, "typical Manchu Qing relics style", he never opened a shop, has been going to the countryside to visit households, and has a certain route, starting from home every day, walking to the street to sell at a fixed point in Hengjiezi for an hour or two, and then selling to the tea shop for a while and folding home along the road.
Later, the cool powder that appeared at the Qingyang Palace Flower Fair was hung with the sign "Dongzikou Cool Powder", which gradually became one of the flavor snacks in Chengdu, but this was not zhao Liang powder.
Around 1949, there was Zhang Liang Powder on the surface of Chengdu, and its flavor was Shi Cheng Zhao Liang Powder, when the flower meeting, "I once sincerely asked Zhao Liang Powder to sit in the hall for him during the flower meeting, no need for him to operate specifically, just play a signboard role and pay excellent, Zhao is old and polite, but for Zhang Liang Powder to play the authentic Dongzi mouth cool powder signboard, there is no objection." However, Zhao Jinshan's descendants did not carry the production of cold powder.
As for Chen Liang powder, it appeared slightly later than Zhao Liang powder, and the owner named Chen Qingyun sat in the hall to open a shop and sell boiled cold powder. After Zhao's death, the liang powder shop was run by his daughter-in-law Wang Chengfen, and in front of the store hung the "Dongzikou Authentic Liang Powder" market sign, which had been expanded into a "red pot" restaurant. And now The Dongzikou Chen's cool powder may have some origin with it.
Later, I saw a book about Sichuan's time-honored brand, talking about Zhang Liangfan, which was slightly different from the record on the "Dongzikou Township Chronicle", and some stories were just the dragon gate array, which was just a talking point after tea and dinner.
Published in 1991, "Chengdu Individual Industrial and Commercial Household Snack Collection" recorded that there is a "Qunjiu brand" spicy sauce in Dongzikou Township, the creator is Zhang Hongfeng, whose skills are inherited from the ancestors, and the spicy sauce he makes exceeds the traditional bean flower seasoning in terms of color, aroma and taste, and now it seems to be rare in the market.
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