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Wang Fulu demonstrates the skills of making Small Noodles in Penglai
A day in Penglai people begins with a bowl of steaming, fresh and fragrant Penglai noodles.
Penglai noodles are not "small", it occupies a very important position in the daily life of Penglai people. What kind of "coming" does Penglai noodles have? What kind of development has it been? What is the current status? Recently, the reporter conducted an investigative interview.
Yifu Hall and Penglai small noodles
Mention the Small Noodles of Penglai, I have to mention Yifutang.
In 2004, Song Jun, then deputy secretary of the Penglai Municipal CPC Committee and mayor of Penglai, succeeded him as the chief planner and the Penglai Municipal Tourism Bureau organized and compiled the "Penglai History and Culture Series of Penglai Customs and Objects", which introduced the small noodles of Penglai. When referring to Penglai noodles, the writing reads: "Penglai noodles are traditional and famous food in Penglai, with a long history. The noodles are artificially drawn (rolled noodles, locally known as 'falling noodles'), thin and tough, marinated real seabream boiled soup mixed, with an appropriate amount of mung bean starch, with soy sauce, fungus, sesame oil, star anise, pepper and other condiments, one or two per bowl, with a unique seafood flavor. During the Republic of China period, the Penglai small noodles made by yifutang were famous (commonly known as 'Yifutang small noodles'). Yifutang, whose ancestral home is Qixia, learned to cook at the age of 13, ran his own pick ramen noodles, co-opened a restaurant with people that also operated small noodles, and in 1945 he operated his own 'Yiji' restaurant. The materials and workmanship of the small noodles he made are extremely elaborate, so the supply is not large, only 100 bowls are sold every morning, and they are famous for their exquisite workmanship and delicious taste, and there are often foreign merchants who are sorry because they can't eat the small noodles of Yifutang. ”
The introduction of just over 240 words does not seem to make people "addicted".
In November 2013, the Penglai Culture Series was published by Zhang Dailing, then secretary of the Penglai Municipal Cpc Committee and director of the Standing Committee of the Municipal People's Congress, and edited and published by the Penglai Historical and Cultural Research Association. In the "Penglai Essays" volume of the series, Cai Yuzhen, vice president and secretary general of the Penglai Historical and Cultural Research Association, also introduced Yifutang and Penglai small noodles: "Because he made Penglai small noodles are the most authentic and the business is the most prosperous, so people will inevitably mention Yifutang when they mention Penglai small noodles, and even call Penglai small noodles Yifutang small noodles." Penglai small noodles are the traditional food of Penglai and have a long history. As for when it originated, it is impossible to know. Because this kind of noodle has the action of pulling and throwing in the production, it is also commonly known as 'falling noodles' in the local area. The raw materials and production methods of Penglai small noodles are exquisite, so they have a unique flavor. The small noodle shop opened in Yifutang was on the grass bridge in North Street in Penglai City, which is tens of meters east of the river bridge at the northern end of today's Painted River Mall. The small noodle shop was opened in 1912, even the owner and the guys only had four or five people, and the funds were small, only a thousand hanging copper coins, which belonged to the business of small profits. "At that time, there was not only yifutang in the city, but yifutang noodle restaurants were somewhat different from other noodle restaurants in terms of business methods, so the business was also booming compared with other peers." For example, at that time, the general noodle restaurant only opened in the morning and morning, pulled up a few noodles, opened a pot of brine, sat on the warm fire, and relied on these leaning doors for half a day to entertain guests. As a result, the noodles have grown into a ball over time, losing their toughness, and the noodles have been brine for a long time and the taste is much worse. The noodle shop of Yifutang only begins to operate after the customer comes to the door, and it is sold now, all day long, not afraid of trouble. Moreover, in the production process of small noodles and the ingredients of the noodles, he is strictly in accordance with the requirements, meticulously cooked, and meticulous. In this way, people think that his small noodles are genuine, and they have come to visit him. "The small noodle shop in Yifutang operated on the grass bridge for 27 years and closed in 1936."
Cai Yuzhen also described the service of the small noodle restaurant in the book: "All the customers who came to the Yifutang noodle restaurant were allowed to sit on the seat after entering the door, and the young men handed the tea and brought the basket containing dry smoke to the front. Guests are then briefed on the quantity and price of each bowl of small noodles and the approximate time it takes to make them. Because the customers are coming one after another, the young man will report the number of people and the number of noodles needed and report to the stove. The ramen of the ramen on the stove, the boiling of the brine, and after a while, the prepared noodles are brought to the table. In this way, it is often the guests at this table who are eating, and the next table of guests are one after another. The guests at this table were sent away, and the noodles of the next table of guests were quickly served, circulating in turn, all day long. ”
Reconcile the mouths, small noodles are not "small"
It is said that the crowd is difficult to reconcile, but it is not.
In the long-term development process, Penglai small noodles cater to the salty and fresh tastes of the people of Jiaodong, especially the people of Penglai. It is also based on this that in 2006, Penglai small noodles successfully declared "Shandong Province Local Famous Food", in 2015, Penglai small noodles were recognized as "Qilu Famous Food" by the Provincial Department of Commerce, and in the same year, Penglai small noodle making skills were listed in the intangible cultural heritage of Yantai City.
Wang Fulu, the inheritor of Penglai small noodle making skills in Yantai Intangible Cultural Heritage, began to work as a chef in 1975 and learned the penglai small noodle making skills from Yan Shiguang. Over the past 41 years, he has made unremitting efforts for the development and inheritance of Penglai noodles.
"Penglai small noodles have a history of more than 200 years, its materials, workmanship, fire is very exquisite, whether it is from the production method or taste, materials, in jiaodong area is unique, very penglai local characteristics, but also the representative of jiaodong noodles." Penglai small noodles are small, fine and fresh, and integrate the five aspects of color, aroma, taste, shape and utensils required for food. In Penglai, whether it is entertaining visiting guests or celebrating a wedding birthday, most people eat small noodles. In the process of dropping small noodles, try to stretch, thin and evenly stretch the noodles, thus symbolizing long-term feelings, health and longevity. Wang Fulu told reporters.
He also stressed to reporters in particular: "Some people say that the small noodles of Penglai are extended from the large noodles of Fushan. I think this statement is incorrect. Penglai small noodles pay attention to white and yellow, alkali flavor and beauty, smooth tendons, and are completely different from Fukuyama noodles in terms of noodles, materials and techniques. ”
Wang Jinpeng, deputy head of the art department of the Municipal Bureau of Culture, Culture, And Guangzhou, from the perspective of intangible cultural heritage, evaluated the small surface of Penglai. He said that, under the Intangible Cultural Heritage Law, intangible cultural heritage refers to the various traditional cultural expressions that have been passed down from generation to generation by peoples and are considered to be part of their cultural heritage, as well as the objects and places associated with traditional cultural expressions. Traditional skills are an important part of this. Objects inscribed on intangible cultural heritage are protected by the Intangible Cultural Heritage Law. As the intangible cultural heritage of Yantai City, the Penglai small noodle making technology has its outstanding value mainly reflected in four aspects: historical value. Penglai small noodles have a long history, in this long process of development, Penglai small noodles inherit the original production skills, inherit from generation to generation, and carry forward the scientific value. The Penglai small noodle process is cumbersome, the operation technology is difficult, the requirements are high, and it contains rich scientific and technological content. Penglai noodles are made from a variety of ingredients, with exquisite ingredients, rich nutrition and cultural value. Penglai small noodles taste cheap, distinctive characteristics, from the folk, from the local, contains a wealth of regional cultural connotations, in the external publicity and promotion of Penglai local characteristics of food culture has also played a positive role in promoting, with important cultural value; economic value. For a long time, Penglai small noodles have been a sideline industry for the people, enhancing people's employment skills, broadening the channels for getting rich, and playing a certain role in local economic development.
"Penglai noodles are mixed with the mouth of the public, whether it is a hotel, a hotel, an ordinary small shop or a wedding banquet, a birthday banquet is indispensable to this special snack." It is the most popular affordable breakfast and dinner of the people of Penglai, with an extremely broad mass base and influence, not only in Shandong, but also in the country. Since the founding of the People's Republic of China, when Ye Jianying, Hu Yaobang, Li Peng, and other party and state leaders came to Pengpeng to inspect, they all tasted Penglai noodles, praised them, and encouraged them to be passed on. Wang Jinpeng said.
Three points "falling face" seven points halogen
Is there a production standard for Penglai noodles? The reporter saw in the "Declaration form for Provincial Intangible Cultural Heritage Representative Projects" of The Penglai Small Noodle Making Technique filled in by the Municipal Culture and Art Development Center that the production of Penglai small noodles is highly technical, including the process of noodles, slips, strips, halogen making, etc., and each link is specifically explained.
In a hotel in our city, Wang Fulu made Penglai noodles on the spot, which opened the reporter's eyes. "When the small noodles are in the noodles, the hands should be loose, pay attention to three times of water, three times of alkali, nine nine eighty-one times kneading, water and alkali do not add enough at once, in the process of repeated kneading to continue to add." Wang Fulu explained to reporters while talking to the reporter, "Adding salt and alkali to the noodles can improve the generation rate and quality of gluten in the dough, so that the noodles have a special fragrance, and the noodles pulled out are smooth and yellow, and the tendons are strong." In addition, the noodles and too soft and too hard can not be, too strong noodles are too strong to pull, if too soft to pull out of the noodles without gluten taste is not good. ”
As the added water slowly blends with the noodles, the noodles gradually form a ball. I saw Wang Fulu quickly roll the dough with his fist and fold it, repeating it for nearly 5 minutes until the dough became soft and smooth. He then covered the dough with a clean, damp cloth. After 30 minutes of waking up, Wang Fulu entered the second process - slip strips, which is often called "shun tendon" by ordinary people, that is, adjusting the order of gluten proteins in the dough. I saw him put the dough on the board and knead it repeatedly until it became a thick strip, and he held the ends of the thick strip with both hands and repeatedly wrestled and pulled on the board. After the strip is elongated, the two ends are folded in half into a figure 8 buckle and strip, and then leave the board, shake the belt to both sides, buckle and strip, and so on repeatedly shake many times until the face is smoothed. The next step is "out of the strip", "the strip is the most difficult to master in the process of making small noodles, it is a very technical operation." Wang Fulu said. I saw that he first put the noodles on the board, sprinkled the noodles, and rubbed the noodles with his hands to make the noodles evenly thick. Then merge the two ends of the noodles in the left finger slit, the second time to buckle, with the right middle finger downward hook buckle, palm up, both hands at the same time to both sides of the pull, so repeated 7 times, that is, 7 buckles 256 into thin and uniform strips, so that the small noodles made of thin as hair, smooth tendons.
The modulation of small noodle halogen is more exquisite. Wang Fulu said: "If the small noodles are counted as ten points, the 'falling noodles' can account for three points, and the brine production can account for seven points." Since the first bowl of small noodles in Yifutang was made of the famous local real seabream, the brine of authentic Penglai noodles has also been made of real seabream. Now, in addition to real sea bream, you can also use braided fish, blackfish, oysters, etc. to make brine, and the taste is also very delicious. "When making the soup, I saw that Wang Fulu first blanched the old hen and the stick bones in boiling water, and then put them into another pot of water." You have to simmer for an hour before the soup is ready. After the bottom soup is ready, Wang Fulu washes and scales the real seabream, removes the fish, and puts it in the bottom soup and cooks it for 10 minutes. Finally, add green onion, minced ginger, black fungus, salt, pepper noodles, dark soy sauce, large noodles, soy sauce, wet starch, eggs, sesame oil, monosodium glutamate and other ingredients. In this way, the brine that directly determines the taste of Penglai small noodles is made. Finally, the noodles are cooked and fished out, and put in a cold water basin to cool, at this time the noodles are bright and very strong. Finally, put it in a bowl, pour it with marinade, and a bowl of noodles with flexible noodles, fresh soup and steaming hot Penglai noodles is finished. Of course, it must also be accompanied by a rich small noodle code: chili sauce, minced leeks, minced toon, minced green onion, minced coriander, minced pickles, etc., so as to make authentic Penglai noodles.
Not only that, the pastry (Penglai small noodle production) is also included in the national vocational skills appraisal project, in the primary operation skills assessment, there are detailed assessment points and scoring standards for the configuration of raw materials, the production of dough, small noodles, noodle halogen, action requirements, and the assembly of finished products. In addition, the "Local Standards for Small Noodles in Penglai, Shandong Province" proposed by the Shandong Provincial Tourism Bureau and drafted by Wang Fulu was also submitted to the Provincial Quality Supervision Bureau in 2014, and has now passed the project, and the next step will enter the review stage.
The business card of the "walking" Penglai people
People's love for food, in addition to the pursuit of taste, also contains insights into all things in nature. Penglai is on the verge of bohai and yellow seas, rich in seafood, it can be said that without this sea that Penglai people love, there will be no indispensable Penglai noodles in life.
Mr. Zhang, a 59-year-old citizen, recalls the small noodles of Penglai, which are still unforgettable. "In the mid-1970s, the largest number of Small Noodles sold in Penglai in the city belonged to the third restaurant under the state-run Catering Service Company, which sold a limited edition of 300 bowls per day for 5 cents per bowl. Every morning, people (mostly middle-aged and elderly) step into the canteen hall and sit around, chatting about their parents and tasting the fragrant noodles. With the improvement of people's living standards and the rise of prices, the price of small noodles became 8 cents and 1.2 yuan, and around 2003, it rose to 1.5 yuan, and around 2009 it was 2.5 yuan. For more than 40 years, it can be said that Penglai noodles have accompanied me every day of my growth and life. ”
The small noodles in Qu Cheng's memory, deputy director of the Municipal Bureau of Commerce, are associated with a crisp sound of falling faces. "When I was in elementary school, every morning when I walked to the vicinity of the current Wenguang New Bureau, the sound of 'snapping' faces on both sides of the road came and went, cooking smoke was everywhere, and the day of the Penglai people began with the sound of falling faces."
A bowl of Penglai noodles represents the nostalgia of people working and living in a foreign country, and condenses a strong sense of nostalgia. "In the 1970s and 1980s, I lived and studied in Penglai City, and at that time, most of the small noodles on the street had been downgraded to mabu fish brine or sea oyster brine. Even so, Penglai noodles are not something that ordinary people can consume regularly. Once, my father was sick and hospitalized, and every morning he went to a small restaurant near the hospital to eat two bowls of small noodles. Most of the people who eat noodles here are hospitalized patients. This Small Penglai Noodle is basically a 'sick number meal'. Retired cadres and employees can eat a few bowls of small noodles in the noodle restaurant every morning, which is a very decent and worth showing off. A Penglai person living in Yantai told reporters, "I worked in Yantai in the late 1980s, and whenever I found a shop that made Penglai noodles, I would go in and have a look, and sometimes buy a bowl to taste." He also published it in the Yantai Evening News on October 12, 2013 under the title of "Penglai Small Noodles", and the complex of Penglai small noodles between the lines overflowed with words.
Yan Chongnian is a well-known scholar from Penglai. In January 2015, after attending an event in Yantai, Yan Lao returned to his hometown of Penglai early the next morning to eat Penglai noodles. "The taste of childhood habits, I can't forget it for a lifetime, two bowls of small noodles under the belly, is ironing."
According to the statistics of the Municipal Bureau of Commerce, there are currently 1500 various catering units operating Penglai small noodles in the city, of which there are more than 300 in the city. "Penglai small noodle restaurant has a small investment, high returns and fast results. Since 2008, the Penglai small noodle market has gradually heated up, and since 2015, Penglai small noodles have entered the peak of development. Not only Penglai City, but also Penglai small noodle restaurants in surrounding counties and urban areas such as Yantai Economic and Technological Development Zone, Yantai City, Zhaoyuan City, Longkou City and other surrounding counties have also sprung up. Behind this phenomenon, more and more people love Penglai small noodles, and the influence of Penglai small noodles is increasing year by year. Not only that, foreigners from the northeast region, Beijing and other places also came to Pengpeng to learn the making skills of Penglai small noodles. Wang Fulu told reporters.
Penglai small noodles are the business cards of the "walking" Penglai people, that is, real, simple and straight. Small noodles are cheap and good, for diners, spend less money to eat enough; in the store, small profits and high sales, the affordable, connections and Penglai people's affection for the sea are all packed in a bowl of hot noodles, noodles warm stomach, warm homesickness, huffing to eat, strong aroma, long charm, Penglai people's spirit is still chewable.