From Hami Road to Gansu Road, Enhongde's sign will have to walk a few more steps to see.
This is a Muslim restaurant. In the genealogy of Tianjin cuisine, Huimin cuisine and Han Chinese cuisine account for an equally important proportion, from fine restaurants to street stalls. However, if two great rivers intersect at the same point, they will flow to a common cooking technique , goji.
Starch is born from grains, after high temperature gelatinization to absorb water, the soup becomes thick, the taste can be better attached to the food, which is the original intention of the hook.
With the continuous exploration of cooking techniques by Chinese, the significance of GouQi is not only to integrate the ingredients and the taste of the soup, but also to extend more functions.
The starch used for ticking mainly includes mung bean starch, potato starch, wheat starch, rhombus and lotus starch. ©Michelle Arnold
In stew, the food encounters high temperatures, a large amount of moisture oozes, and the liquid nature of the sauce itself is easy to make the crust crispy food soft. The addition of the sauce increases the surface tension and consistency of the liquid in the pot, which not only allows the soup to be adsorbed on the surface of the ingredients, but also prevents the backpage of water from affecting the taste of the ingredients.
In the soup dish, the starch makes the soup thicker, the density increases, and the buoyancy of the ingredients also increases, and the main ingredient is held up by the soup, changing the fate of the soup dish "see the soup and do not see the dish". This technique is still called soup in the northern context, but in the south, it is often called "soup", and hangzhou's West Lake beef soup and Guangzhou's Taishi Five Snake soup all use a sufficient amount of mustard juice, and the purpose is the same as that of Tianjin people making mullet egg soup.
In roasted vegetables, the sauce can give the food a better luster, and in the era of tight oil and water, the sauce can be used as a way to make the dish more oily. In a sense, this is more like the psychological comfort of a specific period.
Almost all regions have experienced poverty and resource scarcity, which is why no matter which cuisine in the Chinese map has a color. However, there is some difference between this and a little - if you have enough understanding of Lu cuisine, it is not difficult to see that the traditional Lu cuisine that can still be eaten on the market today, or the Tianjin cuisine and Beijing cuisine that evolved from Lu cuisine almost all have the shadow of Gou Qi.
Drizzling with an appropriate amount of salad oil can make the sauce brighter. © Good bean net
There is no doubt that a southerner who goes to the northern city to eat a few authentic northern dishes, the most intuitive feeling is that the northerners are more skilled in the use of mustard juice, and even like the peppers in Sichuan cuisine, the broth in Cantonese cuisine, and the thick oil and red sauce in Jiangsu and Zhejiang cuisine, "Gou Qi" has become the mark of northern cuisine throughout.
Of course, this is not only because the understanding of the cuisine in the north is very different from that in the south, nor because of the relative lack of ingredients, but for a more important reason - heat preservation.
The annual temperature in northern cities is much lower than that in southern cities, and the thermal insulation requirements for a dish are also higher under such circumstances. Wrapped in the surface of the food, the juice naturally greatly reduces the heat dissipation of the food, from the quantitative change to the qualitative change, and the clear cooking style of northern cuisine is formed in one or two places.
The cognitive difference between the north and the south on the function of mustard juice is also directly mapped to the difference in dosage.
There are not many vegetables suitable for eating in the four seasons of the north, and the north is often dominated by meat and pasta, and the portions are also rough and luxurious. Northerners do slip meat segments, after eating the bottom of the plate does not see the soup, one is the sauce of the sauce is solidly and evenly wrapped in the ingredients, the second is to make the meat dish more transparent and smooth, such a mustard is undoubtedly thick mustard, if you say it more finely, it belongs to the "bun" in the thick mustard.
In addition to the thick mustard, "bursting mustard" is also common in northern cuisine. The classic dishes of the explosion of three and two are also outlined, and the purpose of the hook is mainly to maintain the crispness and caramelization of the surface of the main ingredient, which plays a role in blocking moisture.
Thick mustards are often directly spread out with the sauce without using water, which maximizes the consistency of the juice as much as possible, which basically appears in northern cuisine.
Dishes wrapped in thick sauce are juicy and delicious, and usually belong to the ranks of the next meal. © Good bean net
The proportion of powdered water in thicker mustard is between thick and thin mustard, and is often used in roasted vegetables and stewed vegetables. Roasted elbows, stewed beef these dishes can make people feel the intuitive "meaning" as soon as they are on the table. However, thicker mustard is not a patent of the north, and the "Yangzhou Three Heads" uses thicker pork heads and boiled silver carp heads.
Sichuan cuisine is also hooked, and the hook is often thin qi - thin qi can be divided into "glass qi" and "rice soup qi". Sweet and sour crispy fish, watercress fresh fish, mapo tofu, dried garlic scallops, eight treasure tofu soup, sour and spicy hoof tendons are all used in glass.
There is also a name for liuli in Sichuan dialect, called "second-rate qi". Locals describe a person who is similar to a hooligan, but the hooligan is not very thorough, called "second-rate son", the so-called second-rate, that is, "to flow or not to flow".
Rice soup is thinner than second-rate mustard and is also known as "clear second-rate mustard". Refers to the soup as thick as rice soup, mostly used in white roast, braised dishes, such as golden hook cabbage, tomato braised duck loin. The purpose of adding dishes is simply to make the soup slightly thicker - a little, which can play a role in flavoring and preserving.
The operation time of the sauce is extremely short, but the technical requirements are high, and the mixture is too thick and too thin, which will affect the quality of the dish. © Have fun
At this point, it is all about saying that the sauce is good, and the sauce is not good, but it is often criticized. The essence of the goji can be seen as a bright protective film on the outside of the ingredients, although it protects the taste and temperature of the dish, but when the dish is sent into the mouth, it also becomes tasteless because of the presence of this protective film.
The high density and tension of the sauce make it difficult for the soup to penetrate the taste buds, and the taste buds' perception of sour, sweet, bitter and salty is weakened, of course, it also reduces the stimulation of "hemp" and "spicy" on the taste buds - which is why there is almost no "hook" in the heavy and spicy Chongqing Jianghu cuisine.
At the same time, because the juice is more difficult to volatilize than water, it seriously affects the release of flavor substances, so the sense of smell perception of food aroma is also greatly reduced. To ensure that the food after the hook is delicious enough, which means that the sugar, salt, monosodium glutamate, and spices used are more, with the modern people paying more and more attention to health, coupled with the abundance of materials, there is no need to advertise the expensive ingredients through "oil bright", so the significance of the hook is gradually declining.
However, if you call it "Gou Qi" a mess in cooking, it is not necessary to see a restaurant Gou Qi as if you are facing a great enemy. In addition to adding visual effects to food, it also has many practical effects. The history of human gou-chi is almost as old as the history of Chinese cooking, and if one day the technique of gou-chi disappears, then there must be a new cooking method that can solve this puzzle of thousands of years.