The determination of the court costume system in the Qing Dynasty went through a long process, and it was officially customized in the middle of the Qianlong Period. In the Qing Dynasty court costume, the Eight Tuan Tuan Dragon Pattern Female Ji Costume is either considered to be worn by concubines, or is considered to be worn by Emperor Sun Fujin and other positions, and this article explores the identity of the eight Tuan Tuan Chuan Dragon Pattern Female Ji Dress wearers. In addition to the color, ornamentation and material of the Qing Dynasty court costumes, their embroidery methods are also equally different, and the structure of the matching robes and gowns is convenient to identify the identity of the wearer of the costumes.
"The great of the ceremony, the name of the name, the discernment of the prestige, the crown dress", the Qing Dynasty court costume inherited the Han rulers by color, ornamentation, material to distinguish the clothing level of the tradition, while retaining the Manchu national characteristics of the whole body, tight narrow sleeves, robes and gowns matching the structure, its color gorgeous, ornamentation complex, exquisite craftsmanship, has always attracted much attention, is the treasure of ancient Chinese court costume art.
The existing Qing Dynasty court costumes are rich in physical objects, and their colors and ornaments are not completely consistent with the records of the canon, and the lower-ranking nobles in women's clothing, the color of the clothes that are often in color and the emperor's grandson, the emperor's great-grandson, and the emperor's grandson Fujin who are customized later often cause confusion.
This article only discusses the eight groups of dragon pattern women's costumes, eight groups of patterns are one of the styles of the queen concubine's costumes, and the early Qing dynasty men's costumes also have eight groups of ornaments, with the continuous improvement of the clothing system, the eight groups of ornaments eventually became the exclusive ornaments of women's costumes. There are also eight clusters of phoenix patterns, floral patterns, cloud bat patterns, dragon and phoenix patterns, happy encounters and other ornaments in the queen concubine's costume, and the colors are also different, which should be analyzed specifically for specific problems.
According to the canon and existing court costumes, the emperor's crown dress can be divided into seven categories, namely dress, yoshi, regular, walking, rain, and casual clothes. The crown dress of the queen concubine is only a dress, a kimono, a regular dress, and a casual dress. Dresses include ceremonial and court dresses, which are worn for serious ceremonial occasions such as festivals and pilgrimages. The rank of the gown is slightly inferior to the dress, and it is worn for court festivals, banquets and other occasions. Regular clothes are between yoshi and casual clothes, and the most widely used is the clothing worn on occasions such as the congratulatory version, the honorific honorific, and the sutra feast lecture. The traveling costume is the camp crown uniform, which is the clothing worn on occasions such as patrolling and hunting. A raincoat is a garment worn when it rains. Military uniforms are the costumes worn when participating in military activities such as parades and sieges. Casual clothing, also known as Yanju clothing, is a dress worn at leisure on weekdays. Dresses, kimono, and regular clothes are used for formal and serious occasions, and their specific colors, ornaments, and collocations have clear regulations. Casual clothes are at their disposal.
The determination of the court costume system in the Qing Dynasty lasted more than 100 years, and was officially customized in the middle of the Qianlong Period. However, the "Imperial Qing Huidian ( Qianlong Dynasty ) and the Imperial Ritual Instrument Schema " did not regulate the color of the nobles below the concubine and often dressed. On the one hand, this reflects the low status of nobles and often in the harem, on the other hand, it also reflects that the position of nobles and constant presence is equivalent to a transitional stage, and the harem women's relatives will naturally match the color of clothing that matches their position after giving birth to heirs, obtaining holy favors, and gradually promoting their ranks. The "Current Rules and Regulations in the King's Palace" only records the nobles' and always-present jifu, "The nobles' clothing color rules: Jifu, eight tuanlongshi blue satin gowns, nine dragon incense color satin robes." Examples of commonly used colors are: Jifu, Eight Tuan Chuan Dragon Stone Blue Satin Gown, Kowloon Fragrant Satin Robe. It can be seen that nobles often use stone blue in their gowns and embroider eight dragon patterns; gown robes use incense colors and embroider nine dragon patterns.
The color of the clothes of the Emperor's grandsons, the Emperor's great-grandchildren, the Emperor's grandchildren, and the Fu Jin's clothing was not customized, and in the first year of Daoguang, it was agreed upon by Yinghe and other ministers and included in the palace and the ceremony was always observed, and the Emperor's grandson Fu Jin's jifu "used the eight reunions of the yuanshou character double mite to make up for the gown, and the red and green colors of the python robe were as appropriate, but it was not allowed to use gold and fragrance, and the color of the clothes used after being sealed was regarded as the emperor's grandson." The "Imperial Great-Grandson Fujin Jifu" uses eight reunions of shou character treasure flowers to make up for the gown, and the rest of the crown system and the imperial gown, the winter and summer imperial clothes, and the python robe are all the same as the emperor's grandson Fujin, and the color of the clothes used after being sealed is regarded as the emperor's great-grandson. The "Emperor Yuansun Fujin Jifu" uses embroidered multicolored melon gowns, and the rest of the crown system and imperial gowns, winter and summer imperial clothes, and python robes are the same as those of the emperor's great-grandson Fujin, and the color of the clothes used after being crowned is regarded as the emperor's grandson. "The python robes of Emperor Sun Fujin, Emperor Great-Grandson Fujin and Emperor Sun Fujin are red and green, and are not allowed to use golden and fragrant colors.
Some scholars have classified the eight-tuan dragon pattern gown and the stone-blue eight-tuan dragon pattern gown in addition to the fragrance as worn by Emperor Sun Fujin and other positions, which is inappropriate. First of all, the Python Robe of the Qing Dynasty was divided into a four-clawed python robe or a five-clawed dragon robe called a python robe, for example, the jifu robe worn by the Crown Prince and Crown Prince Fujin was embroidered with a five-clawed dragon but called a python robe. Therefore, compared with the difference in color and ornamentation, the Court Costume of the Qing Dynasty paid more attention to "correct name and solemn observation". The imperial grandson Fujin python robe should be a four-clawed python robe, that is, nine four-clawed pythons embroidered through the embroidery. And The Emperor Sun Fujin Jifu gown is supplemented with eight reunions of shou characters double whips, and the dragon is different from the dragon. Secondly, the nobleman's robes often include other colors in addition to the fragrance. According to the archives of the Ministry of Internal Affairs, on May 17, 2008, Qianlong "passed on suzhou into two pieces of fragrant satin gold dragon robe material, two pieces of green satin land eight tuan tuan dragon with water robe material, and four pieces of embroidered satin gown material." "The existing costumes of the Palace Museum also have green eight regiments of dragon robes, which may also be easy to cause confusion with the clothing colors of Emperor Sun Fujin and other positions." In addition, the view that the fragrant eight-tuan dragon pattern robe is classified as worn by the concubine is also incorrect, according to the canon, the concubine uses the fragrant golden dragon robe, and the color of the gown is stone blue, embroidered with four clusters of golden dragon under the four clusters of dragon pattern. The palace museum's existing four clusters of golden dragons under the four clusters of dragon robes, four clusters of golden dragons under the four clusters of golden dragons on the fragrance, four clusters of double dragon play beaded robes, and four clusters of golden dragons under the stone blue color should also be worn by concubines.
The author believes that there should be two types of auspicious robes for nobles and permanent beings, one is the fragrant Nine Dragon robes recorded in the canons and archives, and the other is the embroidered eight-tuan dragon robe that matches the ornamentation of the yoshifu. Compared with the Eight-Tuan Zhenglong, the Four-Fold Dragon Four-Line Dragon, the Eight-Line Dragon, and the Four-Line Dragon Four-Line Dragon Ornament, the four-line Dragon and the Eight-Line Dragon used by the noble and the perpetual Eight-Tuan Supplement are of a lower rank. The Palace Museum's existing eight regiments of dragon pattern robes are fragrant, green, purple, brown and other colors. A single dragon pattern element is sometimes used in the eight-tuan complement, and a total of four positive dragons or eight-line dragons are depicted. Sometimes it is used in the form of a combination of the dragon pattern and other auspicious allegorical elements, such as the double dragon flower, the double dragon play bead, the double dragon holding shou, the four dragon play beads, the nine dragon play beads and so on. The depicted dragon pattern is either a figurative two-clawed dragon or an abstract streamlined dragon.
(The article is reproduced from the Yuanmingyuan Research Institute)
[Author]
Li Ran
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