Clothing ready-to-wear diagram
Clothing weaving pattern
Hangzhou 2022 Asian Games to show the image of Hangzhou to the world, as a Hangzhou person, to make the best design plan for my hometown, at the beginning I felt some pressure. From ancient times to the present, countless literati painters have painted the West Lake and praised the ten views of the West Lake, how can we make a new landscape, integrated with the concept of "from the West Lake era to the Qianjiang era" in Hangzhou, which is reflected in the clothing, which is very challenging.
After accepting the task of designing ceremonial costumes for the Asian Games in October of the previous year, we worked around the clock to draw up several sets of plans. After repeated comparison and screening by the organizing committee and relevant experts, two sets of plans were preliminarily determined to make sample clothes, and the effect was compared at the competition venue, and the final plan was determined.
Based on the spirit and concept of the Asian Games, the creative concept of clothing, according to the positioning of "Chinese style, Zhejiang characteristics, Hangzhou charm, co-construction and sharing", the design theme of the Asian Games awards dress is "atmospheric exquisite", reflecting the style and classic charm of the big country dress.
First, uphold the concept of sustainable development and use green materials. "The world's silk looks at China, and China's silk looks at Hangzhou." The reinterpretation of the millennium mulberry silk material has been revitalized into culture, transformed into today's use, and recycled for the future, and artistic design, science and technology and traditional craftsmanship have enabled ancient Chinese silk to reproduce its sustainable brilliance in the Asian Games awards ceremony. The second is to adhere to the concept of "green water and green mountains are golden mountains and silver mountains", highlight the narrative of the humanistic patterns of landscapes, tell the narrative story of dress patterns, and spread the regional advantages and historical and cultural characteristics of green waters and green mountains. We have designed "a line of clouds and water" to run through and describe the macro map of the city from the "West Lake Era" and "Qianjiang Era" to the "Yongjiang Era". The third is to highlight the charm of Hangzhou, integrate the characteristics of regional history and culture, express the beauty of the West Lake in the clouds and clouds, the wonders of the overlapping mountains, and the taste of life in the Southern Song Dynasty, and portray this resort that makes the world linger. The fourth is to display the "oriental style" of the award ceremony dress, and interpret the spiritual outlook of the host country through the unique shape of the dress design.
The collar shape of the dress is derived from the modeling style of the improved cheongsam in China, according to the ergonomics suitable for the Chinese shape, the shoulder shape is simple and wide shoulders, the waist is seamlessly linked with the lower part of the dress, and the wide skirt is superimposed to form a contemporary design style and characteristics. High-end customized cultural concept, special original design, special digital fixed weaving, professional hand-drawn rendering, special tailoring samples, special single tailoring, standing collar style, shoulder sleeves wide, narrative pattern, color charm, wide skirt style... The whole dress shows the oriental characteristics.
Color, is the first impression of the sense of clothing, to a large extent, can determine the tone of people's liking for clothing. The color of the award ceremony dress is designed around the asian games' overall color theme "Runze", constructed, designed and recombined, and shaped, designed and constructed in the "Runze" color system: Rainbow Purple, Lake And Mountain Green, Bay Yellow, Ink White. In the application of the dress hand-painted, it presents the oblique posture of the "zigzag", with the laurel yellow as the leader from the top left to the lower right oblique trend, and the gradient, rendering, blending, linking and other evolutions of the ink white blending between the two colors, the lake and mountain green in the lower left part, and the transition to the right oblique trend to the rainbow purple.
The pattern is the main carrier of the clothing narrative, and also the style and symbol of regional culture. The upper part of the dress is a hand-drawn scene from the West Lake era to the Yongjiang era, from top to bottom like a cloud-like water "Yunshui" line, running through the landscape and cultural scenery; the lower part of the dress is densely packed, built, superimposed, interspersed, undulating, forming a top-down, heaven and earth space "Kasumi scroll" line, the connotation of which is reflected in the rushing wave of the qian tide, the track of the Asian Games, the track of urban development, and the overall construction of a gorgeous and rich, development cluster, coordinated forward dress pattern.
Dress fabric, using high-tech digital special weaving positioning pattern jacquard process. The fabric is interwoven with the warp and weft of the silk as the main surface and the rayon as the bottom surface, forming a function of moisture absorption, breathability, comfort and structure. In the weaving process, the pattern design modeling and connotation in each dot, line, surface, etc. are integrated, superimposed, and printed, which fully reflects the magnificence of silk, the humanity of the pattern, and the magnificence of the material.
Jacquet weaving forms the visual effect of the fabric texture, and then through the uniqueness of traditional hand-painting techniques, the particularity of color and water blending is highlighted in "painting": it presents technical means such as immersion dyeing, blending dyeing, push dyeing, melt dyeing, and dye isolation, and realizes a unique and wonderful rendering artistic effect. The jacquard fabrics of traditional handicrafts and high-tech fusion reflect each other, integrate with each other and support each other, so as to achieve a unique costume art effect.
(Author: Wu Haiyan, Professor of China Academy of Art, Ceremonial Costume Designer for the 2022 Asian Games in Hangzhou)
Source: Guangming Daily