（1）
I haven't been out for a long time, and when I was grinding my skin and rubbing itchy, I received a message that before the Dragon Boat Festival, Yangyuan had two days of activities, so I hurried to keep up.
Yangyuan County, a county under the jurisdiction of Zhangjiakou, is located in the northwest of Hebei Province, west of Beijing, about 260 kilometers away.
The north and south mountains of Yangyuan County face each other, and the Sanggan River traverses the whole territory from west to east during the period, showing the shape of a long and narrow basin of two mountains and one river.
During the Warring States Period, this place belonged to the Zhao State, placed in Anyangyi, and the seat of governance was in Kaiyang. During the Qin Dynasty, it was still placed in Anyangyi. In the first year of Emperor Jing of the Han Dynasty (156~150 years ago), Yangyuan County was placed, and then it was repeatedly dismantled and replaced. During the Sui Dynasty, the east and west of Yangyuan County belonged to Zhuo County and Yanmen County. In the sixth year of Tang Wude (623), it belonged to Lingqiu County, Ulzhou, and from the first year of Qianyuan (758) to the end of the Tang Dynasty, it belonged to Xingtang County, Xingtang Prefecture, Hedong Province. During the period of the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms, it belonged to the Jin Kingdom of Ulzhou. In the second year of Tianfu in the Later Jin Dynasty (937), Shi Jingjiao ceded the sixteen states of Yanyun to the Khitan, and Tianfu was three years old, which belonged to Liao. In the Liao period, it belonged to Datong Mansion of Xijing Road. During the period of unification (983~1012), Hongzhou was placed, and Yongning and Shunsheng counties were governed. Jin is still located in Hongzhou, which belongs to Datong Mansion on Xijing Road. At the beginning of the Yuan Dynasty, Yangyuan County belonged to Hongzhou, Datong Road, Zhongshu Province, and governed two counties of Xiangyin and Shunsheng. During the Ming Dynasty, it was directly under the Xuanfu of the Beijing Division. During the Qing Dynasty, it belonged to Xuanhua Mansion of Zhili Province. In the thirty-first year of Kangxi (1692), it was renamed Xining County. In the second year of the Republic of China, in order to avoid the same name as Xining Mansion in Gansu Province, Xining County was changed to Yangyuan County. At the end of the 50s of the last century, it was merged into Wei County, but it was split again three years later.
In this way, Yangyuan County is also a county with a long history, and it is one of the earliest counties in the country, but the final name is only more than 100 years.
It has long been known that the leather market in Xinji, Zaoqiang and Suning is very large and has a wide influence, but in fact, Yangyuan is the world's largest fur scrap processing base and the birthplace of Chinese fur culture, and the other is the Nihewan National Nature Reserve, which integrates natural scenery and the dawn of civilization.
Yangyuan a place because of the Sanggan River Valley, is an east-west channel, formed the main passage connecting Beijing, Tianjin and Jinmeng, now 109 National Highway and Xuanda Expressway also pass through here, in ancient times, there were a line along the Sanggan River densely equipped with beacon piers and castles, now there are still a large number of military forts and civil forts left in Yangyuan, the number of ancient castles is not inferior to the south side of Wei County. According to statistics, there were seventy or eighty ancient castles (military forts and civilian forts), and there are still many of them. I have seen some people have statistics on this, but I don't know whether it is the old situation or the new scene, but Yangyuan County has conducted a survey of villages and towns, and has published a set of more than ten or twenty books on rural history, and there have been more detailed descriptions of ancient cities and castles. In the survey of the resources of the Great Wall, the ancient city and castle here are not included in the data set of the Great Wall because they are far away from the main line of the Great Wall and are restricted by technical requirements, which is actually a great fragmentation of the data system of the Great Wall, and also brings new difficulties to the recognition and protection of cultural heritage.
I once read a document on the Internet, which is collected here:
Tunpu is the most basic system of the military system of towns, guards, institutes and forts in the Ming Dynasty, plus the Tunpu of Mafang Village, there are 67 Tunbao in Yangyuan County. Among them, the first horse square, the second horse square, the third horse square, the fourth horse square, the fifth horse square, the sixth horse square, the seventh horse square, the eighth horse square, the nine horse square, the west six horse square, the East White Horse Camp, the West White Horse Camp, the horse circle fort, the East horse circle, the West horse circle and other villages, all of which have domesticated military horses for the imperial court. Ten horse workshops have domesticated military horses for the imperial court since the Han Dynasty, the East White Horse Camp and the West White Horse Camp have domesticated military horses since the Song Dynasty, and other villages have domesticated military horses in the Ming Dynasty. In addition to domesticating military horses, these villages were also the most basic military formations, like other tunpu, and made contributions to the imperial court in history. The villages that call the fort include Ji'an Fort (Xiguanzhuang), Yong'an Fort (high wall), Xinda Fort, Yongsheng Fort (Dadukou), Yongping Fort (Xin Zhuangzi), Weicun Fort (Weizishui), Hujiabao (Hujiatai), Xiabao (Lower Octagon), Yong'an Fort (Dabaizui), Phoenix Fort (East Baimaying), Chongxin Fort (Xixinzhuang), Yongsheng Fort (Willow Soap), Dayin Fort (Niu Tiaozhuang), Tongliang Fort, Xuanhua Fort, Dongjing Fort (Dongjingji), Manliu Fort, Weitou Fort (West Yantou), Shixie Fort (Xiaoshizhuang), Wangjiabao (Shijiahui), There are 34 places such as Liujia Fort, Chaoyang Fort, Yongzhen Fort (Dagou), Qingquan Fort (Shipen), Xianning Fort (Groove Village), Zhaojiabao, Dingjiabao, Kaiyang Fort, Xiaoxinbao, Shuangta Fort, Sanquan Fort, Tugu Tuan Fort, Changning Fort (Xizhuang), Dushan Fort and so on. In addition, the Ming Dynasty did not call the fort, but must bear the military responsibilities of the fort of the village, the official name of "× character tunbao", the first ×, no substantive meaning, just a code, number. They are, Zhenzi Tunbao (Shuiyukou), Fuzi Tunbao (Bamafang), Waizi Tunpu (upper octagonal), Huazi Tunpu (Shuangmiao), Duzi Tunbao (West Baimaying), Jizi Tunbao (Nanliangzhuang), Jingzi Tunbao (Dongfang Castle), Jingzi Tunxi Fort (Xifang Castle), Anzi Tunbao (Kangjiazhuang), Zhizi Tunbao (Ximulian), Yizi Tunbao (Gray Quanzi), Xinzi Tunbao (Yituquan), Shouzi Tunbao (Yaojiazhuang), Zizi Tunbao (Xinbao), Shuzi Tunbao (Maquan Fort), Dizi Tunbao (Niquan Fort), There are 23 places such as Tunpu (floating map), good word Tunpu (Qu Great Wall), Tunpu (Jituan), Yizi Tunpu (double tree), Wuzi Tunbao (East Baijiaquan), Suizi Tunbao (West Baijiaquan), Luzi Tunbao (Luzitun) and so on.
Before leaving, I had a simple identification on the image and pulled out a list, although I didn't expect to run every point, but I also hoped to "check in" as much as possible along the way.
Yangzhi is located in the thoroughfare, many times in and out of Shanxi, across Hebei all pass through here, but rarely stop here, the impression is also to come to Kaiyang Castle, and Nihewan area has not seen the unearthed Paleolithic items, but there are several ravines and forests have left a mark on us.
It is very strange that Yangyuan is located in the Sanggan River Basin, the land is fertile, and the transportation is advantageous, but it is a poor county for a long period of time, it is said that it is still a national level, although poverty alleviation has been achieved, but many rural areas do not seem to be rich.
On Saturday and Sunday, the little fairy Zhang Luo activities, two cars and eight people, looking for a fort in the north, south, east and west of Yangyuan.
Willing to take a car, pull up Yunqi, red leaves and Lao Ding.
Lao Xie took a car, and took Lao Wang, Da'an and Wupu.
There are eight people in the same company, and they have known each other for many years, but many of them have not seen each other for many years. Now we are together again, and I am happy to be able to travel again.
（2）
According to the "Chahar Provincial General Chronicle", Sanmafang was "said to have been built in the Later Han Dynasty". According to the "Yangyuan County Chronicle", Yangyuan County has been an important place for the border in the past dynasties, and when foreign people invaded, this is where the soldiers are. When the border is secure, it is a land of grazing. The horse mill is an ancient pasture or cavalry barracks, which has existed in ancient times. Today's horse square is a restoration of the Ming Dynasty. Because there are a total of ten from east to west, this place is the third place, so it is called Sanmafang.
Sanmafang Fort is tall and complete, the wall is thick and huge, square, the side is 65 meters long, the wall is about 10 meters high, and the four corner piers are huge and stocky, which makes people marvel.
A cave on the south side of the ancient castle, relative to the height and thickness of the city wall, it seems extraordinarily small, and the fort is now a breeding farm, and the filth is overwhelming.
According to reports, horses in ancient times belonged to strategic materials, about the breeding and management of horses is an important part of the national policy, the Ming Dynasty has a people's herdsmen, but also does not allow the people to carry out horse trading. In the seventeenth year of Yongle in the Ming Dynasty, because of the vast 130 miles of Shunshengchuan, surrounded by mountains on all sides, and convenient water and grass, a horse farm was set up here to herd horses. Two years after Xuande, the castle was repaired and the horse workshop was set up, and each horse workshop was managed by at least one chief, with 50 soldiers and 500 horses, and the soldiers were all military households.
Such a complete ancient castle, and closely related to the ancient horse administration, the historical significance and historical value are huge, and now it has fallen to such a point, which makes people sigh.
（3）
Yangyuan Zhulin Temple, a dilapidated small temple in the deep mountains of the valley, but it is very famous, and it is known as the Little Potala Palace.
In the northwest direction of Sanmafang Fort, the mountain peak is uplifted, it is called Qingyun Mountain, Zhulin Temple is located on the middle peak platform of Qingyuan Mountain, the surrounding peaks are like lotus petals, the middle peak is like a lotus platform, the whole mountain is like a lotus flower, so it is called Wuyue Lotus Mountain. And the Zhulin Temple is built on the lotus platform, forming the "lotus center, pilgrimage to ten thousand mountains", "thousands of peaks ring, if the arch" of the scenic scene. There is a valley at the foot of the mountain, the clear stream flows for a long time, and it is now called the Shuigoukou River, and some people believe that this is the origin of the Shunsheng River.
Today, there is a checkpoint at the mouth of the ditch, which seems to be set up for fire prevention, and vehicles entering and leaving can be released by registration.
Dry river control projects are also underway in the valleys, mainly to build flood control levees.
It takes about 4 kilometers from the mouth of the ditch to the foot of the bamboo forest, and there is a simple road in the river, so you need to wade many times, but the stream is not big, and it is not difficult to drive, so it is really tiring to walk in and out.
Before leaving, Da'an told everyone that they only needed to climb a Jingshan height. At the foot of the Zhulin Temple, looking up, it is at least three or five Jingshan heights, and it is at least half a Xiangshan height to really climb up.
At the foot of the mountain, I added food and water to save up enough energy. I thought that I would climb a Jingshan Mountain and visit a ruined temple, and I would not solve the battle for half an hour, but the result was ............ Later, she said that she had been holding back an attraction for ten years, and she would never leave for two hours.
Zhulin Temple was built in the Ming Dynasty Wanli year, Buddhism, Taoism and Confucianism three religions in one, by Liang Shangwen (Yangyuan County Dongcheng Town) who served as the general soldier of the border pass in the old man after returning to the hometown with his silver to build, at the beginning of the Tao-based, the present view should be Buddhism as the top.
The reason why Zhulin Temple is called the small Potala Palace is because it is built on a spire, looking up from the bottom to the top, layer upon layer, seeing the temple without seeing the mountain, there is indeed a similar shape of the Potala Palace. It is hard to imagine that 600 years ago, in such a secluded place, in such a difficult place, there were people who did not hesitate to build a temple, which may also show from another angle that the ravine here was also a road through the mountain, the place of the ancient road, and the north over the mountain can reach the Huai'an line. When I first saw Chikurinji Temple, I thought it might have been a small castle in ancient times, and later the castle was abandoned and converted into a temple, but there seems to be no information to support my suspicions.
Although the Zhulin Temple is a key cultural relics protection unit in Hebei Province, but the damage has been extremely serious, now only the ruins and broken walls, dilapidated and withered, the temple building of at least two floors before is only one floor. What is more special is that there are a lot of inscriptions remaining, there should be more than ten passes, although the murals are not wonderful, but there are a lot of remains.
According to reports, the music of the Zhulin Temple is also the first batch of intangible cultural heritage projects in Hebei Province, the music form of Buddhism and Taoism, although it has been passed down to this day, but it is no longer related to the "Zhulin Temple", and it has been completely folk, rather than inherited and played by the monks in the temple.
（4）
From the data, it is known that there were six Yi county governance offices in Yangyuan: one is Kaiyang Fort in Futu Township, which was Anyangyi of Zhao State during the Warring States period, Anyang County in the East of the Han Dynasty and Anyang County in the Three Kingdoms, Two Jin Dynasty, and Northern and Southern Dynasties, and it is also the most famous ancient city and ancient castle. The second is the northeast area of Longfengpo in Xinbao Township, which was once Sanggan City in Sanggan County in the Han Dynasty, and at the same time was the seat of the county administration, although it is vague in the image, it seems that there is a small castle, but it should also be done by the Ming and Qing Dynasties. The third is the area of Zuiertu Village, Dongjingji Town, which was once the Yangyuan County Administration Office in the Western Han Dynasty, and now it seems that there is no trace. The fourth is Dongfang Castle, which was once Anbian City in Anbian County in the Tang Dynasty. The fifth is the west city, as the Liao, Jin, Yuan period Hongzhou governance (also for the Liao Yongning County and Jin, Yuan Xiangyin County governance), the Ming Shun Shengchuan Xicheng, the Qing Dynasty and the early years of the Republic of China Xining County, the Republic of China period and the founding of the People's Republic of China Yangyuan County Administration. The sixth is the old city of Dongcheng, that is, Shunshengchuan City, which was used as the Shunsheng County Administration of Liao, Jin and Yuan, and was called Shunshengchuan East City in the Ming Dynasty.
Among the ancient castles of Yangyuan, the Kaiyang Fort built in the Ming and Qing dynasties has the largest name and the best landscape, but the long history and the grand regulation are also regarded as Shunshengchuan City, which is square, 690 meters long, and still remains intact today.
Shunshengchuan is the name of the river, a tributary of the Sanggan River, recorded in ancient books, some people call it Shuigoukou River, but in the "Huai'an County Chronicles" there is a record that Shuigoukou Mountain is fifteen miles south of Huai'an City, and "Jifu Tongzhi" records that Shuigoukou River is in the north of Huai'an County, so Shuigoukou River is a tributary of the Yanghe River rather than a tributary of the Sanggan River. And some records are that the entire basin of the Sanggan River in Yangyuan County is called Shunshengchuan, which seems to have been universally recognized, so Shunshengchuan is a regional concept, located in the valley of the remaining veins of Taihang Mountain and the remaining veins of Yinshan Mountain, bringing together the stream spring flowing from north to south to the Sanggan River flowing in the middle of the east-west direction, forming a place where water and grass are lush and the land is fertile in the river valley, which is also the reason why military horse farms were set up here in ancient times.
Shunshengchuan City is the place where Liaoshun Shengxian governs, and it was abolished during the Hongwu period of the Ming Dynasty.
Nowadays, the whole city site is more empty inside and outside, which is a place for cultivating land and breeding, and there is a highway running through the ancient city from north to south. The four corners of the ancient city are set up with corner piers, and there are more than ten horse faces remaining at the wall, which stretch outward in the form of long strips. There is a gap in the center of the four city walls, and the image judges that it seems to have a gate in the east and west.
There is no cultural monument at the site of Shunshengchuan City, is it possible that it is not in the sequence of cultural relics protection units?
At the end of 2023, the first batch of place names and cultural heritage protection list in Yangyuan County was not included in the public draft, you must know that this city site and this name are closely related to the history and culture of Yangyuan and Sanggan River Basin.
Shunshengchuan city site is 1100 meters west of the site, the image sees a very obvious and complete covered bucket-shaped pier platform, the surrounding royal wall is complete, but there is no data on this pier in the Great Wall resource survey, I don't know whether it is omitted or other, such a situation is not a few in the Yangyuan region.
（5）
To the west, into the eastern town.
Dongcheng Town, known as Shunshengchuan Dongcheng in ancient times, referred to as Shunsheng Dongcheng, was founded in Tianshun four years, Jiajing 43 years to rebuild, Wanli four years of brick wrapping, mainly for the use of horse management, and the county is located in the same specifications of the west city, so there is also the distinction between the east city and the west city. In the Ming and Qing dynasties, it was also the location of the post station of the government. The Shunshengchuan City in the Liaojin period was abolished in the early Ming Dynasty, and later it was also called the old East Castle.
The remains of the city gate of the east castle wall are basically absent (it is said that there are still some ruins of the east wall and the remains of the south gate), only the Jade Emperor Pavilion in the city still exists, and it is a key cultural relics protection unit in Hebei Province.
The Jade Emperor Pavilion was built in the 41st year of Jiajing in the Ming Dynasty (1562), burned in the 7th year of Xianfeng in the Qing Dynasty (1857), and rebuilt in the 8th year of Tongzhi in the Qing Dynasty (1869). The Jade Emperor Pavilion is made up of brick and stone pedestal and the palace pavilion, up to more than 20 meters, the pedestal is covered bucket-shaped, the east and west are short and the north and south are long, the coupon door is straight through the north and south, the south gate door plaque is a single line engraved regular script "Yong'an", the north gate door plaque is a double line engraved regular script "prosperous", there is a stone plaque "Taiping" on the inner wall of the east side of the climbing door. The main hall on the north side of the tower base is a three-storey loft building on the top of the mountain, the plaque is hung in all directions, the north is: "the clouds are showing", "the sky is open and the literary luck", the south is "to be clear", "the purple gas comes from the east". The south side of the building is divided into two on the left and right, the bell tower and the drum tower, and the four corners are spired and the two-storey pavilion-style building is built. All buildings are covered with yellow glazed tiles, which is spectacular.
On the same day, there is an opera troupe to set up a stage in front of the Jade Emperor Pavilion to sing opera, adding a festive scene to the Dragon Boat Festival, and the rebuilt van truck will become a vehicle-mounted stage after the roof is lifted and unpacked, and the "mobile" performing arts venue has brought joy and enjoyment to the people of Sixiang.
（6）
There is a Catholic church on the west side of Dongcheng Town, which was built in the 23rd year of Guangxu in the Qing Dynasty (1897), because it is not a worship time, the courtyard door is locked. The west and north sides of the church were once warehouses built in the fifties and sixties of the last century, and the north side of the building is obviously a granary.
There are some stone monuments and stone pieces scattered around.
（7）
A few years ago, I went to Kaiyang Fort once, when the sun was setting, the warm sun during the Qingming Dynasty shone on the remnant walls and old houses, projected on the snow-sprinkled river beach, the kind of golden white swaying scenery left a deep impression on me, and now I am ready to wait for the sunset moment to go to Kaiyang Fort again.
On the way to the way, pass through the Seven Horse Fang, turn in, and see the Seven Horse Fang Fort.
Qimafang Village is the largest village in Dongcheng Town, the ancient castle on the south side of the village is also one of the earliest village forts in Yangyuan County, and it is also the largest one among more than ten ancient castles built for raising horses, its north and south are about 340 meters long, and the east and west walls are about 230 meters wide, and the south wall and the east wall remain more.
Mafang is not only a castle village and town that breeds military horses, but also a young man called Mafang in the Western Han Dynasty, he signed up to join the army at the age of sixteen, trained hard in the army, killed the enemy bravely, and when he went on an expedition against the Huns with the general Huo Quai, he had captured the Huns Zuoxian King alive, and made great achievements in defeating the Huns, and was later named the marshal of the town, stationed in Sangganchuan, so there is a plaque of "Mafang hometown" on the stone archway at the entrance of the village.
On the south side of Qimafang Fort and the north side of the Sanggan River, you can also see the remnants of a small fort.
During the Ming Dynasty, the water and grass on the banks of the Sanggan River were abundant, and these Mafang villages became military horse farms for the border guards of the imperial court to domesticate military horses, which were built and managed by the government. At that time, it enjoyed the reputation of "Mafang River" and spread far and wide. Although there are still villagers living in the fort, most of the houses have been dilapidated and withered, and most of the villagers have built new houses and new villages outside the fort, and the houses have been extended to the side of National Highway 109.
Between the vicissitudes of history and modern civilization, Qimafang Village is also undergoing major changes. Interestingly, many villagers are now ordering a kind of fresh milk, and an old lady rides a small tricycle, carries a little granddaughter, pulls a box of cold fresh milk, and delivers it to a small bag or small jar at the door.
（8）
Niquan Fort, Sanggan Henan, the old village of Remnant Fort, but the new village has long been expanded in the south outside the fort, the area is seven or eight times that of the old fort and the old village, the ancient castle brings an old and cramped living state, which is no longer suitable for modern people to live and live.
Villagers are constantly moving out of the old castle, and many ruined houses and old courtyards have become breeding places, and the decline of the ancient castle is even more rapid.
（9）
According to historical records, Zhao's father, Wuling Wang, the eldest son of Zhang, was the county of Anyangjun in the Western Han Dynasty and the Eastern Han Dynasty, and it was called Dong'anyang County in the Western Han Dynasty and the Eastern Han Dynasty.
Kaiyangbao is the sixth batch of historical and cultural villages in China and the first batch of traditional Chinese villages.
Kaiyang Fort is about 290 meters long from east to west, 210 meters wide from north to south, the south side opens the door, the four surrounding walls are more complete, and there is a high platform in the middle of the north side and the east side. The whole castle is located on a high platform next to a river valley, and the east, west, south and south sides are low-lying, which is convenient for water and defense. The earthen city wall still retains its original outline, and in some places it is basically intact. The blocks in the fort are tic-tac-toe structures, with two main streets in the north and south, and many alleys in the east and west, with some traces of construction according to the Bagua map. The base of the south gate is a stone wrapper, the plaque on the door ticket is "Kaiyang Fort", there is a city gate tower on it, it is the Jade Emperor Pavilion that was built in the Tang Dynasty, the single eaves rest on the top of the mountain, the more peculiar is that the wooden member of the eaves corner plays a role in the role of the high mouth is carved into an elephant's head, this kind of carving is relatively rare in the ancient building, but the Jade Emperor Pavilion is rebuilt during the Tongzhi period of the Qing Dynasty, but retains some of the style of Tang and Song Dynasty buildings.
Kaiyang Fort is not only famous in history, but also fascinated many people because of its topography and ancient castle walls, city gates, temples, murals, inscriptions, ancient houses and courtyards, old alleys and stone roads, stone pieces and old objects, etc., and there are many wonderful images and records that are constantly being sent.
Today, the whole castle is basically vacated, the repair and remediation has been carried out, currently mainly concentrated in the south gate, undertaken by the Hebei Provincial Institute of Building Research Co., Ltd., including the Yama Palace, the Jade Emperor Pavilion, the stage outside the fort, the Maitreya Buddha Palace, the protective repair project of the Guandi Temple.
On that day, because it was only dusk, there was only one worker working on the construction site, so there was no obstacle to our entry.
After nightfall, I left Kaiyang Fort and stayed at the Aopu Hotel in Yangyuan County, a newly opened hotel with relatively luxurious facilities. For dinner, I chose the highest-rated "Our Stewed Fish Restaurant", with two extravagant stew pots, one pot of big fish and one pot of goose.
Eight people, four men and four women, the men don't smoke and the women don't drink, but the delicious food is almost gone.
Great day, great meal.
(ENDS)