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Text: Yanyan
Edited by Yeon-yeon
preface
In ancient times, court officials went to court very early, and often had to rush to the court before dawn. As you can imagine, such an early rise makes their breakfast even more important.
So, what do these high-powered officials eat for breakfast? Surprisingly, many times, they will gather at the street stalls in front of the upper court to enjoy a simple breakfast.
What kind of food can attract these court officials to put down their bodies and feast in the market? What is the unique flavor and charm of these breakfasts?
Dawn Rises: The Misery of Ancient Officials
In our modern impression, working from 9 to 5 is already hard, and the routine of ancient officials is even more staggering.
According to historical records, the time of the early dynasty in ancient times was usually between 3 and 5 o'clock in the morning. This meant that the ministers had to get up and freshen up before the moonlight had dissipated to prepare for the court.
Imagine that in the days when there were no electric lights, officials got up in the dark, and servants held dim oil lamps and dressed their masters in court clothes.
The people in the mansion were already busy, some were preparing warm water to wash, some were tidying up, and some were doing some paperwork. All this went quietly in the silence of the night, lest it disturb the dreams of the neighbors.
For officials whose homes live on the outskirts of the city, the situation is even more difficult. They may need to set off at midnight (11 p.m. to 1 a.m.), riding horses or sedan chairs through the dimly lit streets to the Imperial City.
On the way, they will see sporadic lights, which are vendors closing their stalls at night markets, or vendors who get up early to stock up. This kind of scene is vividly described in ancient books such as "Tokyo Menghualu".
Dine-in Food: The Transition from Abundance to Frugality
As early as the Tang Dynasty, the imperial court was aware of the importance of breakfast to the efficiency of officials' work. During the reign of Emperor Xuanzong of the Tang Dynasty, it was ordered that breakfast be provided for officials after the court meeting. This tradition continued until the early years of the Ming Dynasty.
When Zhu Yuanzhang, the Taizu of the Ming Dynasty, first ascended to the throne, he adhered to this fine tradition and stipulated that the ministers could have dinner in the palace before leaving after the performance. This arrangement reflects the emperor's compassion for his courtiers, and it is also a way to win people's hearts.
Imagine that the ministers could enjoy a hearty breakfast in the palace after a heated court discussion, which could not only replenish their strength, but also take the opportunity to communicate with their colleagues.
However, the good times were short-lived. In the 28th year of Hongwu (1395), the official of the Ministry of Rites pointed out that due to the large number of diners, this system was very costly. Zhu Yuanzhang, who has always been thrifty, heard this and immediately ordered the abolition of this regulation. From then on, the ministers' breakfast became their own business.
This change reflected a change in the policy of the imperial court, and also reflected the ruler's consideration of fiscal expenditure. That doesn't mean, though, that officials have nowhere to feed. Instead, this change has given birth to a new "breakfast economy".
Celestial Street Restaurant: The food and lake in the Forbidden City
As the imperial court no longer provided free breakfast, a unique breakfast market gradually developed in and around the palace. In the Ming and Qing dynasties, this phenomenon was particularly obvious.
In the Ming Dynasty, the Huagai Hall and the Wuying Hall became popular places for ministers to dine. These two places were originally used for court meetings and the emperor's office, but in informal settings, they also became places for officials to fill their stomachs.
Imagine that the ministers who had just been arguing in the court were huddled together and enjoying the same breakfast, and the contrast itself was very interesting.
In the Qing Dynasty, the situation was different. Ministers usually eat in the "Heavenly Street" between Jingyunmen and Longzongmen. This "Heavenly Street" has become a small food street, with a variety of Beijing specialties and snacks.
From the poem, we can get a glimpse of one or two: "Suzao meat fragrant sesame cake is hot, fried liver sausage rotten apricot tea is strong." "These foods not only satisfy the appetite, but also make officials feel a little bit of fireworks in addition to their busy government affairs.
Interestingly, these breakfast stalls have also formed their own "hierarchy". Stalls with good locations and fine food are often occupied by high-ranking officials and dignitaries, while ordinary officials can only be found in the surrounding areas. This phenomenon reflects the hierarchical perception of officialdom, even in such a trivial matter as eating breakfast.
Ho Shen's Exclusive Breakfast Stand: Another Taste of Power
When it comes to the powerful ministers of the Qing Dynasty, He Shen is undoubtedly the most eye-catching one of them. It is said that He Shen has an "exclusive" breakfast stall in the Forbidden City. This stall not only prepares a variety of exquisite breakfast items for Heshen to suit his taste, but also becomes a place for many officials to curry favor with Heshen.
Imagine such a scene: in the Forbidden City in the early morning, he Shen Shi Shiran came to his "exclusive" breakfast stall. The stall owners have already prepared a variety of exquisite snacks, from famous spots in Beijing to local specialties.
Seeing this, other officials came forward one after another, either offering courtesy to help He Shen pay, or deliberately eating at the same table with He Shen, taking the opportunity to talk.
The breakfast stall has become an informal "political salon". Here, officials can exchange information, ask for support, and even close certain deals in a relaxed atmosphere.
He Shen took this opportunity to win over his colleagues and expand his network of influence. A bowl of millet porridge and a baked cake may hide the undercurrent of officialdom here.
This phenomenon reflects a common phenomenon in ancient Chinese officialdom: the extension of power is ubiquitous, even in the details of everyday life. Heshen's breakfast stall is not only a place to satisfy appetites, but also a stage to show and consolidate power.
Wang Kuer's steamed bun business: court business opportunities and adventures
During the Xianfeng period of the Qing Dynasty, there was a vendor named Wang Kuer, whose story added a touch of legend to the breakfast culture in the palace. Wang Kuer was originally just an ordinary steamed bun seller, but his life changed by an accident.
He picked up a missing piece of the card, and coincidentally, the owner described on the card resembled him. With the mentality of giving it a try, Wang Kuer took this waist card and blended into the Forbidden City.
At first, Wang Ku'er was just curious, wanting to see the inside of the court. But with many unimpeded entries, he gradually discovered a business opportunity - selling steamed buns in the palace.
You must know that although there are already many breakfast stalls in the palace, Wang Kuer's steamed buns seem to have a unique charm. Maybe it's because of the special taste, or maybe it's because of the freshness, his steamed buns quickly became popular in the palace.
From ministers to palace maids, from eunuchs to guards, Wang Ku'er has more and more customers. Every day, he has to prepare large baskets of steamed buns in advance, and these steamed buns are often sold out before noon. In this way, Wang Kuer relied on this "black market" business and resold it in the palace for a year or two, making a lot of money.
However, as the saying goes, "things must be opposed", the good times will not last long. In the third year of Xianfeng (1853), a newly appointed guard became suspicious, and after careful investigation, he finally recognized Wang Kuer's true identity. The daring steamed bun dealer eventually escaped justice and was reportedly sent to distant Ningguta.
Although the story of Wang Kuer does not end well, it vividly shows the commercial activities within the court, as well as the curiosity and covetousness of ordinary people for imperial power.
More importantly, it reflects the loopholes and grey areas that exist even in the rigid court system, providing opportunities for speculators like Wangkuer.
epilogue
From the official supply of the Tang Dynasty to the free market of the Ming and Qing dynasties, the breakfast culture of ancient courtiers has undergone earth-shaking changes.
In that seemingly ordinary breakfast stall, we saw the strict hierarchy of officialdom, the ingenuity of powerful ministers, and the opportunities and struggles of small people. #长文创作激励计划#
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