A selection of Wen Wei Po pen meetings
Big River Family
Zhang Chengzhi, born in Beijing in 1948, is a writer
Dahejia is a Yellow River crossing.
Wandering in the Loess Plateau in the northwest every year, Dahejia has gradually become his own must-pass place. It's just like the kind of geography teacher doesn't understand, and the secret geographical hub; Although it is remote and poor, it is unknown to the people, but it is more natural and primitive than the scenic spots of the transportation arteries, and it communicates with China without a trace.
These locations, once they are known more and more familiar, make people begin to become attached. I haven't seen each other for half a year or a year, especially after two years of absence, like me, I felt that they were calling from the moment I returned home. It's a call, you can't hear it but you can feel it, and before you can settle down and put down your luggage, before you can visit them right away, you should make friends with them on paper.
Dahejia is a small Muslim town on the southern border of Gansu. Dense, rammed farmhouses are jagged in several alleys, and there is a dusty empty field in the middle of the street, which is the famous Dahe Family Market. The shops are clustered and crowded, and more than half of the people in the group are Muslims wearing white hats. The spires of the mosques rise above the tops of poplar trees, and there are more than a dozen of them near and far, and only those who know the inside know the origins, factions, and history of each one.
Of course, any Yellow River crossing is exciting. And Dahejiadu, not only has the magnificent and sad scenery to grab people's souls, but also has a sense of peace and nature, so that people can get tranquility.
Several dirt alleys, gathered together like a spike, created a set. A hundred steps out of the collection, is the roaring Yellow River.
Waiting for the ferry here, you can see the two provinces of Gansu and Qinghai at a glance, and you can see the Hui and Tibetan ethnic groups at the same time. On one side of the Pong Da River family set is Gansu; The loess and green trees, the Hui people in white hats are busy in the slopes all day long. On the other side of the river is Qinghai, with rugged red rocks, and Tibetans in black clothes faintly haunt the mountain roads. Dahejia, it put the firewood and medicinal herbs of Qinghai, the Tibetan sheep of Pingjiao and the green onion and cabbage of Gansu, and the tea with strong flavor and big leaves -- passed on the roaring and tumbling water of the Yellow River.
A large iron cable as thick as a fist hangs from the river. A large wooden boat is tied to this suspension cable, and with the momentum of the Yellow River, a rudder is used to make the boat go back and forth between the two banks. When the boat enters the middle stream, the scenery is spectacular. On the bumpy ferry, the boatman tightened the rudder and divided the water power of the Yellow River into the skillful crossing.
This refers to the "industry" as a guest. The wheat cutter is called the wheat guest, the handlebar type is called the boat guest, and the gold digger is called the gold guest. When the boat crashed into the whirlpool, the water splashed, and the people on the boat on the shore looked in amazement. The roar of the boat is inaudible, and in the great river home, the valley is forever filled with only the roaring sound of the Yellow River crashing down.
In the early morning, because the Yellow River is going too fast, there is too much water, and the whole valley is covered with thick fog, and the sound of water can be heard, but the river is not visible. Gradually the weather was hot, the sun shone through the fog, and I saw the majestic posture of the Yellow River. The Yellow River is so beautiful, lined with a red stone mountain that it split in ancient times, lined with the lush poplar forest that is moistened by it, and the Yellow River water is raging and carnivaling, regardless of life.
It's been the first time I've lived in Han Thirty-eight's house, and now I can't count it when I think about it. At this moment, when I returned from a trip to a distant foreign land, it was as if I had lived in his courtyard again. Bunches of corn hung under the eaves, and there was a shed in the corner of the courtyard for changing water and bathing.
Han Thirty-eight should be eighty years old this year, and if he holds a grandson next year, his name should happen to be Han Eighty-three. He also likes to look at the river. At dawn, the fog covered the river, and he stared silently at the mist. The moisture seeped into the wrinkles on his face, and I couldn't guess what he was thinking as he looked at the river.
He came back from the ground of death, and fifty years ago he was Ma Zhongying's protector. On the Gobi Desert south of Kashgar, they ran wildly with their rifles, and the planes in the sky chased them and killed them. The team was wiped out, and he and a few fellow villagers of the Dahe family went into Kunlun Mountain.
Along the northern edge of the Kunlun Mountains, along the southern edge of the Tarim Desert, several of them fled home from the Dahe family - who of the world's explorers who has written books and told us about such a route? One year I flew to Kashgar, and from the porthole I could see every bush of grass in the desert under the scorching sun. I think it's terrifying, planes are chasing people who are fleeing, and war really doesn't seem beautiful.
Han Thirty-eight and I looked at the river, always silent. He never mentioned the myth of Ma Zhongying back then, nor did he talk about the bloody battlefields he had seen. It's a pity for me as a student; Because I have to guess for myself.
After escaping back to Dahe's house, he did everything he could to make a living from the ferry: rafters, gold customers, wheat customers, tea sellers, smuggling people, and Tibetan places. The Yellow River is his home road; He said that as long as he earns money, he will look for the river. Hop on a raft at any of the crossings, or earn a few more money as a raft guest, and it won't be long before you meet his Sarah woman. This is really an accurate geography: no matter how big the world is, it is not difficult to find the Yellow River, and the river has always flowed to the door, which is why the old man Han Thirty-eight is as steady as a mountain, and he is always so confident in the ups and downs of the world.
No wonder there are also Shandong people here. The Yellow River is the home road, along the Yellow River, you can get to Jinan, people think like this, the heart is quiet.
The grand tour is endless, this is the ancient Chinese style. Instead of going with the flow and learning to be dirty, it is better to go to Dahe's house to live for a while. Go to see the two provinces of Gansu and Qinghai, see the boundary between the Loess Plateau and the Jishi Mountains, see the surging river that makes fog, and be with the people who have really passed through the dangerous situation.
Edit: Have fun