In 2013, the first year of China's self-media, Yu Shi was 39 years old, forty years old, and he was not confused.
When not confused to meet the first year, not only confused, but also ahead of the old age's stubbornness. For example, suffering from severe discomfort with the title party, so far as today; for example, the shuangwen who is not afraid of people is afraid to say, has always been allergic.
After twenty years of drinking and eating with confidence, a bunch of magnificent and lonely concepts have suddenly emerged, such as the three "everything" of the famous: Tianjin pancake roll everything; Beijing sesame sauce mixed with everything; Shandong bun bun everything.
Pancake rolls for everything? Tianjin people skimmed their lips: Those are all cults (in Tianjin dialect, it is particularly vivid and fragrant).
Mix everything with sesame sauce? Beijingers don't even bother to skim their mouths: Do you know what to put and what to put?
Buns wrap everything... This is really not how the people of Shandong, who are known for their kindness, can go back. At least in my experience, it's too much to wrap everything up, but Shandong people deserve to be able to stuff all kinds of unimaginable meat into buns.
For a few years, I didn't fully settle in Yixing to make celadon at that time. The workshop is in Yixing, the business is in Beijing, and there are always one or two times a month when driving two ends. Shandong must pass through the land, so all parts of Shandong will eat all the way.
Shandong food is generally large, with a cheerful atmosphere, which is probably matched with the body and personality of Shandong people.
Before Si Wen's divorce, the two famous terriers in the talk show were found from Cheng Lu, one was the "brother who slept on the top bunk" and the other was the "pocket Shandong Han". Of course, it is precisely because of the many big men in Shandong that Cheng Lu's "pocket" version can support the script for his ex-wife with contrast. Shandong Han is also fine, Shandong women are more cute. There are several Shandong girls who are good in the experience, all of them are tall, big skeletons, generous faces, never twisted posture, and do not care about self-blackness and self-hi. Daily chat, on average 5 seconds will have a big laugh, that kind of tuotuo frank, infectious laughter. And like a speaker, you can easily throw laughter five meters away. Like a bodybuilding and decent sand radish carved into a rich peony, Shandong food also has such a weather, one of the buns.
At that time, I crossed the first line of Shandong, stopped in Linyi, Tai'an, Jinan, Laiwu, Zibo and other cities, and always ate a half-meal of buns. If you eat more and cook, you will know: First, if you eat the standard version of the big meat bun in the "Bun (I)" in the Shandong territory, it is for the sake of unwiseness, and the creativity of the carb meat and meat of the Shandong villagers is restored; second, in addition to being huge, if you encounter a fancy shaped bun (such as a twist fold large dumpling type), you must stack up the spirit, which is very likely to be an Easter egg.
One of the Easter eggs of that year was a strange thing that had to spit out bones when eating buns: large rib buns. Receiving revolutionary education since childhood, watching the movie turned into poor peasants fighting bullies, and complaining with blood and tears: Eating people does not spit bones! In a single sentence, the greedy and fierce personality of the class enemy was established. Shandong buns eat meat and spit bones, and they suddenly stand up thick and solid people.
Traditional shapes and large dumpling-style rib buns have been encountered, in short, when the dough is broken, the atmosphere is a bit solemn: in the absence of advance psychological construction, I was surprised to see a whole row of inches in the bun standing out, black and shiny; it spewed aroma steamingly, like the laughter of a Shandong girl; occasionally there were yellow and white cartilage flashes, like a child who covered your eyes with you. At that moment, it was first shocked, just like the shock of Lu Xixi opening a can and seeing a box of small meat people in the fairy tale of Zheng Yuanjie that he watched as a child; then he was moved, which was the touch of an adult foodie who was thrown back to reality, driven by saliva and throat knots, and slightly trembling.
Bone-edged meat is always delicious. And, even as a northerner who prefers to eat stewed ribs, I have always had no resistance to steamed pork ribs in soy sauce. Presumably, shandong foodies of that year were also like this, and Fang Youyou's chef master created this trick: in the steamed pork ribs of soy sauce (or sauce), a sealing cover made of noodles was added, and at the same time, all the aromas and oil beads forced out by the hot air were collected in the noodles. Meat wants the life of bones, and noodles want the soul of meat. When I open my mouth wide, bite its flesh, chew its face and spit out its bones, it is to live and disappear the soul, rather than be satisfied.
The fantasy of Shandong buns is far more than this, such as Jin Yong's martial arts, which has eighteen palms of hard splitting and hard frames, and should have an empty fist that is half cloud and half fog. This empty fist is like a cloud covering the moon, and the fresh dividends fall in a grain of white greasy fat. The members of the Health Sect saw that they were bound to go into the wilderness and defeat Qilu. Although I was shocked at the first sight of my generation, I would be at peace after that, and I would not be delayed. This is another Easter egg, a vermicelli bun.
The memory of whether the Easter egg was swallowed in Laiwu or Zibo is blurred, but the shock suffered after splitting the large dumplings on the side of the flower is no less than that of the rib bun. In the white dough, a clump of brightly colored vermicelli strips was squeezed into coral. The sauce coral is inlaid with a white square, delicate and moist, how to look at it is a small family jasper style, which is thought to be some cholesterol assassins with bombs. This lump of bun stuffing resembles a lacquerware of the screw process, and the dark light convergence is oozing out small oil beads little by little, and it is very careless. Like a lazy beauty on the gum bed, she sang "Itch" with you unhurriedly: Come, be happy, there is a lot of time anyway; come, pretend, anyway, there is a lot of scenery.
Beauty is like jade, gentle as a knife. Like my three high people, gentle township can be an occasional line, and they must not be entangled. Shallow taste stopped, half stunning and half safe, not examined in this life to have a relationship, but this encounter must be difficult to forget.
Of course, it seems that this is not the atypical bun in a meatball sitting noodle, and it is not shandong. They are clean inside, their bones are clear, and they are half-hearted. Half of the body is mixed in the noodle world, the other half of the body is strolling around Dangdang, strolling into the morning tea world next door, sitting on a chair, supporting half of the country, giving but not returning.
The southeast gate of Linyi Mountain, from its exit from Shandong into Jiangsu, south more than 100 kilometers to Huai'an, and then more than 100 kilometers south to Yangzhou, this Huaiyang is the home of Huaiyang cuisine. Between the two is an area with ancient cities, with Yangzhou as the core, plus Taizhou, Xinghua, etc., constituting an important town of morning tea culture. Every morning, under the white mist of steamed buns, it outlines the once rich and leisurely life situation.
The drinking food of yangzhou is buckled on the words salt and water. Without salt merchants, there is no prosperity and maintenance of the Qing Dynasty, and there is no Yangzhou cook who stands up salty and fresh, tirelessly subtle, and sees the magic of the ordinary, and naturally there is no self-contained morning tea and buns. Without water, there is no Yangzhou's graceful stretch, jiangnan's elegance, Jiangbei's Kuangda poured into a cup of water, stirred and stirred, becoming Yangzhou's leisurely demeanor. This demeanor illuminates the taste of Yangzhou's drinking and eating, rich but not proud, literary but not reserved, and the city is dusty. Therefore, from the first time I came to Yangzhou, I must drink morning tea and eat buns at the water's edge in the morning.
I went to Yangzhou no less than fifteen or six times, and I had to live in the West Garden seven out of ten. If nothing else, just to step out of the gate is the Royal Wharf, and down the steps of the Royal Wharf is Yechun. Zhu Ziqing wrote "Summer in Yangzhou", saying that Yangzhou teahouses often face a river, and then:
When the boat passes, the tea guests and passengers can casually greet and talk. If the people on the boat are happy, they can also ask for a pot of tea from the tea house, or one or two kinds of "small cage dim sum", drinking, eating and talking in the river. When he returns, he will give the teapot and the so-called small cage to the people in the tea house together with the price.
There is about the shadow of Yechun here, and the small cage dim sum is naturally a bun. When Mr. Zhao Heng wrote "Apricot Blossom Spring Rain Words Ye Chun", a mingren tasted:
Yechun Tea House is a grass house built by the water, surrounded by water on three sides, leaning on the window and railing, and the water and light tree color can be seen. The river outside the window is not wide, but it leads directly to the Rainbow Bridge of Slender West Lake, and occasionally small boats sail by, breaking through the calm of the water. The trees on both sides of the river are verdant, and the spring grass is hidden in it. Yechun and the downtown are close at hand, separated by a water, two worlds, it can really be said that it is quiet in the middle of the bustle.
The rest of my life is late, waiting for me to go to Yechun, there is no fun of swaying, nor is there a longing feeling at the water's edge. Fortunately, there is still a bay of green water, half a stack of old walls, that is, Mr. Zhu's so-called "green YangChengGuo is Yangzhou" taste. Twenty years ago, yechun, who was now repairing and rejuvenating, wanted this taste to be bad, and it seemed to be just as strong as it seemed.
I was solemn and active in the morning tea, and often waited for its business in front of the Yechun Gate at the early six o'clock, and I was always the first. The locals who came from behind were often shocked to see that the head of the team actually let an outsider occupy it. I didn't want anything else, just for the first one to enter the eight immortals table next to the water as soon as the door opened.
When the Eight Immortals table was occupied, Nai stood up reservedly, and pushed open the red and green wooden windows, and a pinch of old green water and a wisp of fresh air this morning were mine. There are no boats in the river, but a clanging sound seems to come through history, and the aroma of one or two kinds of "small cage snacks" floats under the canopy.
Oh no, the aroma is real – my bun is coming. Usually a large crab yellow, a three-diced and a green vegetable bun are always indispensable.
The big crab yellow bag is a foreign body of the Generation of Huaibei and Yang in Jiangbei, and the ones in Huai'an, Yangzhou and Jingjiang are all good. In the small cage drawer, a flat and large hard leather bun is like a very enlarged version of the authentic dog, the skin is green and white and slightly pink, and a circle of regular pleats surrounds the small round opening in the middle. This bun looks good, but it looks so dangling, it trembles, it doesn't move or shake. At this time, the master of his own quick attack, the hand with the plastic glove is flattened, buckled and moved, and the bun is already in your plate, as if its palm has a suction cup. At this time, an old cannon eating Huaiyang buns should show his his hiss: he had to open the middle opening, use chopsticks to surgically stuff a small lump of very fine tender ginger into it, pour a dose of Zhenjiang balsamic vinegar into it, and then insert a straw.
And then, let's drink this big bun.
This bun is just a soup that is extremely fresh. Crab yellow and meat jelly-made soup, golden with some red spots, mixed with ginger shreds and balsamic vinegar, the so-called fresh tongue seems to be a common thing. If Mr. Bi Zhuo crossed over and smelled, he was afraid that he would throw away his left hand claw and his right hand wine, and abandon the ship. When the soup is finished, the hard skin is torn open, and the mottled crab yellow slag is picked up with excitement.
Green vegetable buns seem to be popular in Jiangnan, but the Yangzhou area is very different. One is to chop very small vegetables, and the other is to unscrupulously pour heavy oil and sugar. Yangzhou drinking is originally based on elegant and salty freshness, but the indulgence of sweetness in plain dim sum dwarfs Wuxi. Of course, the effect is excellent, the snow white and noisy dough skin bites open, revealing the turquoise filling, and the delicate vegetable mushrooms may slip and fall under the impetus of heavy oil. Like a whole green lawn, the sound of the sun relaxing under the spring sun, watching a rush of youth. After the entrance, the semi-flowing green vegetables and fresh sweetness are spread on the tongue, making you wonder whether you should chew or wait a little longer to let the fresh sweets be eaten. When it finally fell, I heard a faint sigh in my own internal organs.
Yangzhou morning tea, matched with the bun is not green Yang Chun or Kui Dragon Ball, are all heavy teas, just to suppress the force of the bun, especially the five dings and three dings. Wuding rarely dares to provoke now, it is too real and greasy, so Sanding has become the top brand of Yangzhou buns. Three-diced, cooked chicken, cooked meat, bamboo shoots. Three kinds of dice are stir-fried in a pot with seasonings, the sugar oil is also heavy, add the fresh soup and simmer for a long time, and then draw out, and then put it cold to become the filling. Three-ding bao is so delicious, so that the line pen has some words poor at this point, if the crab yellow bun is the Huaiyang people to integrate the freshness of the water into the realm, the three-dingbao is to adjust the freshness of the mountains into the best. Last year's epidemic situation, sitting in the kitchen, nostalgic for Yangzhou morning tea endlessly. Just when someone dug up spring shoots on the mountain, he rose up in spirit, fried the noodles, and made a number of three dice. Its taste is acceptable, although it is not far away, it is a great comfort.
Taste the same language I, said that you advocate Yechun, in fact, has long been not a Yangzhou morning tea health. I also know this, although compared to the degree of "depravity" of Fuchun, Yechun is also fine. But its taste is indeed much worse than it was then. Later, when I went to Yangzhou, I was looking for the tea house that the locals in the city patronized every day, but I felt that the same bun did not feel beautiful. Later, I think about it, probably Yu loves not only the buns in Yangzhou, but also the feeling of sending them by the wind, feeling nostalgic for the water, and taking a sip of tea. Therefore, it is estimated that for the matter of eating buns in Yangzhou, if Yechun does not leave the water, I will not leave Yechun.