laitimes

Nian Wei Leshan Leaf on the tip of the tongue

author:Sichuan Online

Ye Ercang is a traditional snack in Leshan, and it is also one of the most representative traditional New Year symbols of Leshan people at the end of the year. At present, the packaging and storage methods of Ye'ercang (bubble rice, frozen rice) have made great progress, and the production of Leaf Rice snacks in Leshan City has begun to form an industrialization, and it has gone to the vast market inside and outside Sichuan, which is deeply liked by people.

In the waxing moon, every household does a lot of work

Entering the Waxing Moon, Qiu Fangying, a villager in Group 2 of Xingfu Village in Luocheng Town, Qianwei County, was busy preparing for the New Year goods. Among them, making Ye Ercang is one of the most important ones. "Since I can remember, our family has to eat Leaf Erzhu for the New Year, and Ye'erzi is like setting off firecrackers during the New Year, which every household has to make." Qiu Fangying introduced, "If any family does not do the New Year, the heart will be empty, like something missing." ”

The production process of Ye Ercang is complex and cumbersome. After washing rice to soak rice, stone grinding rice, filtering rice milk to dry, cutting rice leaves, washing rice leaves, drying rice leaves, making rice filling, kneading the skin to make rice dumplings, and steaming them in a steamer basket, Qiu Fangying's leaves came out of the pot hot. The family and the neighbors who were invited to help make the rice dumplings also tasted the freshly made leaves, salty and sweet, talking about the taste of the rice, and everyone was lively and happy.

"The whole production process of traditional Leaf Rice dumplings takes several days or even ten days before and after, in the process of making rice dumplings, manual kneading of the skin and rubbing of rice dumplings is the most laborious and labor-intensive, in addition to their own families, neighbors will help each other to buy leaf rice." Qiu Fangying said that in the first month, every household goes out to visit relatives and friends, often to bring some leaves to relatives and friends, and the home that has made Ye Ercang will definitely steam a cage of leaf rice dumplings to the table for everyone to taste, and everyone also tastes a variety of different flavors of leaf dumplings at the same time.

The reporter learned that in the past, because of its convenient carrying and preservation characteristics, Ye Ercang was often used as a gift for visiting relatives and friends during the Spring Festival, and it is still the same today. Especially for the People of Leshan who are away from home, a box of traditional Leaf Erzhu can not only taste delicious snacks, but also comfort homesickness.

Ye Ercang has a long history of exquisite workmanship

"Leshan Ye'ercang has a history of development for thousands of years, and in traditional customs, people love to eat Ye'ercang during festivals, especially the Dragon Boat Festival, Mid-Autumn Festival, and Spring Festival." Cheng Shengshuo, secretary general of the Municipal Food Processing Industry Association, introduced that Ye'ershu is one of the traditional snacks in Leshan, named after the local unique rice leaf wrapping system. The original name of Ye Erzhu was noontime rice, and there are many theories about its origin, mainly two kinds. First, there is a legend that there is a Ye'er shop in The Field Dam in Leshan City, which is not eager to sell it every day after making rice dumplings, and it is not eager to sell until noon, after the county lord in the county yali retreats from the church, he hears three drums before he starts selling, so it is called noontime rice. Another theory is that there used to be a snack bar in Wutongqiao, which began to sell Leaf Dumplings after six o'clock every morning, and was no longer sold after noon, so it was called noontime dumplings.

The traditional Leshan leaf rice production is very particular about the process and material selection, to achieve three non-stick, that is, "no stick, no stick, no stick teeth". Glutinous rice and rice are selected from the skin, and matched according to a reasonable proportion, and the general situation is that glutinous rice accounts for the majority. Ye'er Rice mainly has sweet skin salty rice filling, white skin salty rice filling, sesame rice filling, bean paste filling and other flavors. The steamed rice dumplings are fermented with rice milk and steamed with baking soda, alkali water and sugar wrapped in rice leaves. Frozen rice is based on the addition of lard and sesame seeds, which is deeply loved by consumers.

In various parts of Leshan, there are countless shops in the streets and alleys. With the progress of the times, some Ye'erzi stores throughout Leshan City have gradually developed from small stores to food processing factories, and business is booming. Many processes in the production process of Ye Er Shu are gradually replaced by machines, so that the production efficiency of Ye Er Shu can be improved. With the development of the times, although fewer and fewer people can make Ye Er Shu now, the leshan people's love for this traditional snack has not decreased by half a point.

Whether it is in a modern factory, or an ordinary farmhouse stove, whether it is standardized production, or a traditional craft with a rich taste, Ye Ercang has long surpassed the snack itself for Leshan people. Whenever the old is said and the new is welcomed, this traditional snack, together with strong family affection, turns into the most mellow New Year flavor of every household.

Industrialized production to achieve annual sales of 200 million yuan

The reporter learned that in recent years, the development momentum of Leshan Ye'ercang has been very good. From the perspective of the Minjiang River Basin, large-scale production manufacturers in Shizhong District have Leshan Jieji Food Co., Ltd., Wutongqiao District has an industrial chain of Dechangyuan, Shuixiang Food Co., Ltd. (production of Ye'er rice flour), Qianwei County has Diziyuan Food Co., Ltd. and so on. In Jiajiang County, Emeishan City and other places, Ye'ershan, bubbles, frozen and other series of products are also quite popular.

A few days ago, the reporter saw in the Baita Street store of the Yueji store in Leshan City that the varieties of rice sold here are very rich, and there are about twenty kinds of leaf rice and bubble rice only. Different varieties of prices are not the same, but also can be vacuum, gift box packaging sales, and launched wholesale, group purchase business. The public who came to buy leaf and bubbles was endless, and the sales staff was very busy.

The Baita Street store is a microcosm of the 43 branches of Leshan Jieji Food Co., Ltd. Shi Chongyong, general manager of the company, introduced that the company's sales model is store chain operation, and it is also directly supplied to hotels and hotels. Every year, from the fifteenth to the fifteenth day of the first month, it is the most popular season for the sales of leaf and bubble rice, and there can be sales of 300,000 yuan a day. The sales of Ye'er and Bao Tang accounted for 50% to 60% of the company's total sales of more than 40 kinds of food, with annual sales of more than 10 million yuan, accounting for half of the city's central district.

"I've been doing it for almost 20 years since 1997. Now the pace of work is faster, and the more traditional it is, the more attractive it is. I have a lot of confidence in this industry. Shi Chongyong introduced that in 2014, Jieji Food Co., Ltd. successfully walked out of Leshan and established a branch in Neijiang, and Neijiang already has 2 branches. In 2015, the company will further expand the scale of production, do a good job in the preparation of new plants, and concentrate on building a municipal industrialization leading enterprise. Strengthen the construction of the sales team, expand sales outlets and channels, and strive to develop to 100 branches within the year, through 3 to 5 years of efforts, so that the food throughout Sichuan, to the whole country, the establishment of 1000 sales outlets.

"From the perspective of Leshan City, Ye Ercang has developed on a large scale. This is a very 'grounded' food, and the Municipal Food Processing Industry Association is very supportive of the standardized and large-scale production of these manufacturers, and guides and regulates food safety and other aspects. Cheng Shengshuo introduced that according to incomplete statistics, the annual sales of Leaf Rice and Bubble Snacks in the city are about 200 million yuan. In addition to providing local people's consumption and catering enterprises in the city, Leshan Ye'ercang is also exported to Chengdu, Ya'an, Yibin, Neijiang, Ziyang, Chongqing and other places.