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The finale of the first season of the original Greater Bay Area food documentary "Five Star Famous Dishes" is the most common and valuable ingredients in Cantonese cuisine - abalone and shrimp. As we all know, Guangdong diners' dedication to "umami" taste and various mouths are the most in the country. Therefore, successive generations of Cantonese chefs have worked how to play the fresh and tender seafood. This time, from The Four Seasons Hotel In Guangzhou, Executive Chef Mak Chi-hung, and Ritz-Carlton, Guangzhou, Executive Chef Huang Shangfeng, believe that although the cooking methods of Cantonese cuisine are constantly changing, the purpose of innovation is to do the ultimate in the handling of details, and to present the "freshness" that Cantonese people can not live up to on the table and shine on the tip of the tongue.
Jinhua chives charcoal roasted Australian large net abalone
head chef
Huang Shangfeng
Executive Chef, Ritz-Carlton, Guangzhou, Lixuan Chinese Restaurant
Master Huang Shangfeng has been in the industry for more than 20 years, working in Guangzhou, Shenzhen, Dongguan, Beijing, Wuhan and other cities, he has worked in a number of five-star hotel restaurants, and has also operated his own restaurant. In addition to Cantonese cuisine, Chef Huang is also good at Teochew cuisine. Immersed in a diverse cooking environment, Chef Wong has gradually formed his own unique cooking style, he respects traditional cooking concepts, and is also good at integrating some authentic flavors into exquisite diets, telling not only the food style, but also a unique experience. "Respect tradition, don't innovate for the sake of innovation." Master Huang Shangfeng said that in the creation, always respect the authenticity of ingredients, rather than blindly stacking.
Culinary philosophy: Innovation is not the goal, it is the cooking technique, presenting the essence of traditional ingredients
For this Jinhua chives charcoal grilled Australian large net abalone, Master Huang Shangfeng believes, "Traditional abalone, especially large abalone, mostly use the cooking method of stewing, with a mellow and strong abalone juice, very delicious, but also easy to greasy." I tried many ways to give the abalone a fresher and more refreshing taste, such as burning with chicken soup. "The key point of this dish is to set the shape, the abalone itself has a wealth of collagen, if it is too high to stew at once, the meat will be tight, the pot is not good-looking, and the taste will be lacking." Therefore, you need to choose a palm-sized fresh abalone, after cleaning, under the cold water, when the water temperature reaches 60 degrees Celsius, switch to a low heat and simmer for one hour to set the shape. Compared with other abalones, the Australian large net abalone is particularly large, and the flesh is full and delicate, the taste is tender and smooth, and there is a strong abalone flavor. Combined with Chef Wong's innovative cooking techniques, its own umami taste is truly stimulated.
Preparation method: First wash with a little salt and corn starch, and make a "shape" for the abalone. Then soak it in warm water at 60 degrees Celsius, and when it has a process of adaptation, it slowly contracts, which takes a long time, two or three hours, determined by the size and texture of the abalone. In the second step, add the chicken, ribs and ham and simmer for 48 hours. Be sure to use a low heat during the pot process to taste the abalone. Abalone itself has a fishy smell, and others such as chicken need to be fishy, which can highlight the deliciousness of abalone. Then we simmer it with a five-year-old Jinhua ham and chopped green onion. Stir-fry the ham and chopped green on a high heat with chicken fat, then add the abalone 'abalone sauce' to taste. In the words of Master Huang Shangfeng: "Old chicken and red meat can stimulate the deliciousness of abalone, and chicken feet and pork bones make the soup add bone collagen and firmly lock the fresh aroma of the ingredients." ”
After cooking, place the abalone in the shell and place on a charcoal stove. Pour in the original abalone broth, minced shallots and ham, add a flavor other than fresh abalone with salty ham, and slowly cook until the juice is collected. Finally, fry the minced green onion and ham in chicken fat until golden brown and serve.
Too big year TIPS
Chef Huang Shangfeng from The Ritz-Carlton's Lixuan Chinese Restaurant recommended the Chinese New Year's eve dish as "Fishing the Emperor Salmon Skin with The Wind and Water". "Fishing up" is a popular New Year's dish in the Canton area, symbolizing the rise of the new year. Families gather to use long chopsticks to fish out many ingredients and fillets together, and look forward to a prosperous new year in a joyful atmosphere. Chef Huang chose the top variety of the snail with salmon category - New Zealand Emperor Salmon, this kind of fish fillet is tender, the taste is plump and full, the taste is particularly delicious and rich, and the use of secret sauce marinade is not only to convey a good holiday wish, but also a delicious delicacy suitable for all ages.
Nine shrimp balls
Mak Chi-hung
Executive Chef of Four Seasons Hotel Inc. Guangzhou
Chef Mak Chi Hung joined the team of Four Seasons Hotel Guangzhou in 2012 for nearly a decade. Chef Mak is very persistent in selecting fresh and high-quality ingredients, understanding the characteristics of each ingredient, and then creatively using a variety of cooking techniques to present. Chef Mak believes that the most important thing in cooking Cantonese cuisine is to highlight the umami taste of raw materials, even with different cooking techniques, but can not overshadow the unique taste of the ingredients themselves, which is the biggest test for Cantonese chefs.
Culinary philosophy: Change a little bit, and a dish makes a big difference
Shrimp, one of the common precious ingredients in Cantonese cuisine, in the hands of Master Mak Chi Hung, can play dozens of ways, this time he brought a new work - jade hairpin nine shrimp balls. Chef Mak believes that Guangdong's rich seafood variety can bring many innovative ideas and creative space to local chefs. Nine-knotted shrimp is one of the favorite seafood of Cantonese people, and is called ghost shrimp by locals. Nine shrimp are mostly wild, and their fresh and sweet taste is favored. In the cooking of this dish, Chef Mak Chi Hung incorporates some Western food practices, he believes that the new Cantonese cuisine is to upgrade the traditional Cantonese cuisine from ingredients to collocation, it is not "Chinese food Western cooking", but to think about how to make a familiar, ordinary dish both delicious and good-looking.
Preparation method: The nine shrimp we are using now is 10 pounds a pound, first remove the shrimp head and shell, use a knife to cut the back, take out the shrimp intestine, wash the shrimp body, absorb the water and then mix well with egg white, salt, monosodium glutamate, corn starch and coat the shrimp body for later. Add parsley, shiitake mushrooms and Jinhua ham to the shrimp. Then turn on the heat and pour the oil into the pan, the oil temperature should be controlled, put the shrimp in the frying pan and fry until golden brown (pay attention to the temperature of the oil), pick it up and set it up, put the crispy nuts on top, and finish with the mustard sauce we made.
Master Mai Zhixiong, who has been deeply engaged in cooking for 30 years, can be described as countless innovative dishes, but he has never relaxed his control of quality. The experience of traveling all over the country in the early years made Chef Mai understand the tongue of diners "exploring" and "seeking innovation". To be quality, to taste, but also to be innovative. This became the driving force behind his continuous innovation in cooking. Chef Mak Chi-hung prefers seafood that is more skillful in everything from material selection to cooking, and in his hands, a seafood can open up dozens of methods and burst out various flavors. Taking shrimp as an example, there are nine shrimp balls of jade hairpin, crab powder and hundred flowers brewed yunnan bamboo sheng, green mustard shrimp balls crisp nuts and so on. Replace the ingredients, update the seasonings, creative combinations, and sculpt the shape and color, aroma and taste on the table to create the most suitable and delicious dishes.
At the beginning of the new year, chef Mak Chi-hung of the Four Seasons Chinese Restaurant recommends a New Year dish with colorful grains and flower glue. The sauce based on the broth is mixed with the bubbled flower glue and millet, quinoa, black rice, barley, Cishi and other grains and other grains and cooked together, the flower glue is smooth and soft, and the whole grain is full of delicious broth, which is a mild and long-lasting New Year dish suitable for a family. With this dish, Chef Mak wishes everyone a peaceful and beautiful life, prosperity, and tiger vitality!
Written by: Nandu reporter Zheng Haihong
This edition of the photo: Nandu reporter Zhong Ruijun Chen Canrong