Immortal Light (19)
Qiangtang - Hidden nobility
Text/Wang Wei (Zhizhi)
If meeting Ali in the sky is a cultivation in this life, then driving Qiangtang is a disaster! A feast of devastating decay.
I haven't seen Qiangtang yet, and her name has ironed me hot, haunted by dreams, and I think about it for a long time. She has stubbornly penetrated into the theater of my dreams countless times. Like a beauty in the distance, the soul is seduced, and the lovesickness is a disaster! We couldn't wait to rush to Qiangtang, starting from Urumqi, crossing the 600-kilometer Taklamakan Desert, arriving at Minfeng County, Hotan, and then plunging headlong into the vast Qiangtang.
Human beings have always had two spiritual homes, one is the hometown, the other is the distance, people often forget the hometown, take the yearning for the distance, the wilderness is the home where human beings first walked far away, so anthropologists have an instinctive obsession with the wilderness, I crossed Lop Nur, Altun Mountain, Hoh Xili, Qiangtang became my last fascination.
Crossing the Qiangtang and crossing China's largest uninhabited area, with an area of more than 700,000 square kilometers and an average altitude of 4,700 meters, it is the highest step in the mainland's terrain and is known as the "roof of the roof of the world".
It is a land of freedom surrounded by the Kunlun Mountains, the Tanggula Mountains, and the Gangdis Mountains. Many years ago, there was no permanent human settlement in the area.
This is the gift of nature's third pole - China's largest uninhabited area, it is a magical name that makes people think of the unique loneliness, emptiness, silence, desolation, an unapproachable place - and yet its beauty comes from this.
Heaven and earth Xuanhuang, the universe is desolate, perhaps the earth hundreds of millions of years ago should be like this, Qiangtang uninhabited area, is China's highest altitude, the largest area of nature reserves, the terrain is complex, the landform is peculiar, a radius of 100 miles is uninhabited, showing a primitive mountain style, here completely retains the original ecological appearance of nature, the peculiar karst landform, make people marvel that nature still retains such a magnificent original vicissitudes.
The uninhabited area of Qiangtang is located in the Nagqu region of northern Tibet, between the Kunlun Mountains, the Tanggula Mountains and the Gangdis Mountains, where the terrain and landform are changeable, grasslands, alpine meadows, Gobi, lakes, mountains and rivers are all over it, and the polar cold climate makes it impossible for human beings to adapt to the living environment here, so it is inaccessible.
When you enter Qiangtang, you will find that the world here is indescribable! All the most tense adjectives pale at the moment, the snow-capped mountains and lakes are deeply intertwined, the wilderness and the white clouds kiss affectionately, and the subtle communication between humans and animals is transmitted in the wind. Tibetan antelopes dance with the grasslands......
For hundreds of millions of years, Qiangtang has been proudly independent, silent and lonely, and Shendu's nobility lies in the ignorance of the species of this earth.
There are five lines across Qiangtang
1. Qiangtang East Line: from Shuanghu Lake in Tibet to Mangya in Qinghai. In the north, Shuanghu Lake passes through Puruogangri Glacier, Duoge Cuoren Lake, Duoge Cuoren Qiangcuo Lake, Whale Lake and Aqikekule Lake to Mangya County, Qinghai.
2. Qiangtang Middle Line: From Tibet Ali to Qinghai Mangya, from the change to the north through Tibetan Segangri Mountain and Burocuo, north to Xinjiang and Mo County, and then east to Aqike Kule Lake, to Qinghai Mangya.
3. Qiangtang West Line: It belongs to the earliest extension route of the Xin-Tibet Line, from Songxi Village or Dongru Village in Ali, Tibet, through Arutso, Camel Lake, Qingqing Lake to Bangdacuo, from the Keriya Pass to Pulu Village in the north, or along the North Line from Jieshan Daban. Due to its proximity to the new Tibet line, there are relatively few people crossing it.
4. The Qiangtang horizontal line, also known as the north-north line, enters from the Xinjiang Tibet boundary mountain Daban, goes east along the southern foot of Kunlun Mountain, passes through Longmucuo, Bangdacuo, Yanghu, Tuanjie Lake, Ruola Lake, Duogecuo Ren Lake, and Ulan Wula Lake, and reaches the Qinghai-Tibet line from Wudaoliang.
5. National Highway 216 line, changed to Minfeng County, Xinjiang, also known as the second line of Xinzang, entered from the change to the north of Xinyi, and then crossed the 600 Highway Taklamakan Desert to Urumqi, a total of 830 kilometers of uninhabited area, no gas station, no replenishment station, need to bring their own fuel tank.
With an average altitude of more than 4,500 meters, the Qiangtang grassland is located between the Kunlun Mountains, the Tanggula Mountains and the Gangdis Mountains. There are diverse landforms, such as the Gobi, grasslands, lakes, mountains and beautiful scenery.
Qiangtang is one of China's top five ranches, and it is not only a haven for wildlife, but also a culturally fertile soil with rich sedimentary layers.
The Qiangtang grassland is like a green pearl on the snowy plateau, exuding charming brilliance. It is a paradise for yaks and sheep, and the surrounding mountains provide the grasslands with abundant water and fertile soil. In this magical land there are three treasures: wildflowers, mushrooms and cordyceps. In summer, wildflowers bloom all over the land, bringing colorful landscapes to the Qiangtang grassland; The golden mushrooms that shine in the grass after the rain bring fresh deliciousness; Cordyceps, a treasure of the plateau, brings people health and longevity.
The Qiangtang grassland is not only a paradise for wildlife, but also a cultural fertile soil with rich sedimentary layers. The herders who live here have created a dreamy, colorful nomadic culture. There are not only ancient petroglyphs, but also many ruins of the ancient Xiangxiong Kingdom, the footprints and stories of the hero King Gesar are all over northern Tibet, and Mani piles, prayer flags, and ancient pagodas can be seen everywhere...... It adds a bit of mystery to the vast prairie, and the famous Tangbo Ancient Road runs through the north and south.
Qiangtang history and humanities
Due to its harsh ecological environment and the fact that most of the area is a barren and uninhabited area, it is natural that there is no human habitation here for a long time.
In fact, this is a misunderstanding, the human pace is both in awe of Qiangtang, but never afraid of Qiangtang. As early as 7,500-3,000 years ago, the Qiangtang area was inhabited by humans, including the well-known Guge Dynasty and Zhangxiong culture, all of which occurred in the Qiangtang wasteland. It is unbelievable that the desolate Qiangtang is actually the birthplace of Tibetan culture, the ancient Zhangxiong Kingdom. Similar to the Sanxingdui period, the origin of the Yangtze River civilization, before India Buddhism was introduced to Tibet and before the rise of Tubo, the Xiangxiong Kingdom was a tribal state on the hegemonic side of the Tibetan Plateau. Zhangzhung is a Chinese character written according to the transliteration of the Tibetan word "Zhangxiong", which has had exchanges with Central Asia, West Asia, South Asia and other regions, and the particularity of its geographical location has created the innate advantage of Zhangzhung to become a post station on the ancient Silk Road. According to historical records, during the period of the Eighteen Kingdoms of Zhangxiong, the upper Xinhuan were noble, and the lower kings were mighty, which can be seen that the Yongzhong religion had a high social status in the Zhangzhung Kingdom.
Many of the customs and lifestyles of today's Tibetans have also been handed down from the Zhangzhung era, such as turning the sacred mountain, worshipping the god lake, inserting horse flags, inserting colorful prayer flags, carving stone scriptures, placing mani piles, playing hexagrams, and fortune telling, all of which have the shadow of Bon customs. The origin of the Tibetan script is also inseparable from the Zhangzhung civilization. The Tibetan language originated from the Zhangzhung script, when Songtsen Gampo sent his minister Thonmi Sambuzha to create the Tibetan language, which can only be called an improvement of the Zhangzhung script at most.
Zhangzhung is the birthplace of the "Ancient Zhangzhung Buddhism". The prince of the ancient Zhangxiong, Xinrao Miwo Rulai Buddha (the master of Shakyamuni Buddha's previous life "White Son of Heaven"), in order to save sentient beings and compassionately preached the "ancient Zhangxiong Buddhism" Yongzhong Bon, Yongzhong Bon's "Kangyur" is actually the source of all Tibetan history, religion and culture, and is an extremely precious material for the study of ancient Tibetan civilization, which is also an important field that no Tibetan culture researcher can bypass.
As the sacred mountain of Bon, the sacred lake, the Daguo Snow Mountain and the people on the shore of the lake were nurtured by the people of Dangjak Yongcuo, it is the cradle of the ancient Zhangzhung civilization and the center of Zhangzhung in the kingdom of Zhangzhung. The once glorious center of the Zhangzhung Dynasty was located near Dangjak Yongcuo, and to this day, visitors can still see the ruins of the ancient Zhangzhung King's Palace by the lake, and this seemingly ordinary lake has become a key to deciphering the mystery of Zhangzhung culture.
Qiangtang, along with Hoh Xili, Altyn and Lop Nur, is one of the four major uninhabited areas in China, and is one of the most dangerous and difficult routes for hiking in China, known as the "forbidden area of life". The terrain here is complex, showing a peculiar karst landform, a radius of 100 miles is deserted and uninhabited, and the original ecological appearance of nature is completely retained, and it is one of the most intact areas of alpine ecosystem in the world.
In the uninhabited area of the Qiangtang grassland, there is an average of less than one person per square kilometer of land. Therefore, it is completely conceivable that more often than not, there are no people for tens or even hundreds of kilometers. When it comes to no man's land, it is not that there are absolutely no people, but it is just that it is extremely sparsely populated. Its territory includes parts north of Nagqu and east of Ali, and even includes a large area of land at the source of the Yangtze River and the Yellow River.
Although the Qiangtang uninhabited area is harsh and unsuitable for human activities, and a large area has always been regarded as a no-man's land or a forbidden area for life, it has become a natural paradise for wild animals. Far from the "harassment" of human beings, wild animals have become the owners here, Tibetan wild asses, wild wolves, wild yaks, Tibetan antelopes, Tibetan brown bears, Tibetan antelopes, Tibetan foxes, plateau rabbits, etc.
The original ecological appearance of nature and the peculiar karst landform are completely preserved here, which makes people marvel that nature still retains such a magnificent primitive flood wilderness. This is one of the most secluded and mysterious areas on earth, far from human infestation, and when you see wildlife running here, you will definitely be moved by the beauty of the world.
This is the plateau lake area with the largest number of lakes in the world and the highest lake elevation, and the large and small lakes dotted here not only infiltrate the entire Qiangtang Plateau, but also the most beautiful scenery of Qiangtang.
Nietzsche said: When we come to this world, we should meet the best people, the most beautiful things, and the most fragrant souls, and only in this way can we live up to our lives.
However, the world is full of deceit, materialism, and chaos, where to find the soul? Many people die at the age of 20, buried at the age of 70, the most important thing in life is to find their own world, to be themselves, independent life is not crowded with others, to seek inward, the inner sage and the outer king, Zhuangzi said: The mountains and rivers are beautiful and speechless, so I reluctantly go to the poetry to the distance, to discover the great beauty of heaven and earth, the infinite ......
Running naked to Qiangtang
Text/Wang Wei (Zhizhi)
Today, I burned the earth
Together with all the squalor of the world
And then with torches
Follow the direction of the wind moaning
Wash your body at the foot of the Tianshan Mountains
Running naked to Qiangtang
The tide is deserted on all sides
Time wanders everywhere
The years hold the torch high
Run to the heart of the sun
Burn under the sky
The body is in hell
Eyes in heaven
The days faltered
Snowflakes are flying
Tear off the red dress that covered the shame and lay naked with me
The sun is setting
Just wait for Qiangtang to bury me
About the Author
Wang Wei (Zhizhi), a famous calligrapher, writer, poet, and real estate CEO.
There are eight loves: writing, code writing, flower arrangement, mountaineering, playing tea, collecting, dancing, cooking.
Since childhood, he has studied poetry and books, read ancient and modern classics, taken Su Dongpo as an idol, took Wang Xizhi as an example, put the interesting soul in the text, and integrated the Wei and Jin styles into the pen and ink.
Representative works: "Everest Fu", "Virtuous Fu", "Heroic Theory", "Bayu Land Fu", "Xishu Ji", "Kunlun Mountain Fu", "Yangtze River Fu", "Qinling Fu", "I Ching and Calligraphy", "Shufu", "Wine Fu", "Tea Fu", "Yunnan Fu", "Wenzhou Fu", "Chinese Fu", "Thousand Years of Solitude, High Mountains Look Up - Commemorating the Death of Su Shi in 921", "Hanging Dongpo Fu and Song", "The World is Zhuangzi", "The World is Interesting Wang Xiaobo" and so on. He has published a collection of works such as "The Light of Daylight", "Bright Moon and Clear Breeze", "Selected Chinese Contemporary Writers", etc., and published millions of words of poetry.
Poetry: Thought is the mother of the article, philosophy is the neighbor of the article, the realm is the soul of the article, and tension is the vitality of the article. There is the righteousness of heaven and earth, the power of love, the life of temperature, the words of oxygen, the deep thinking, the fragrance planted in the heart of nothingness, and the affection. Calligraphy: Calligraphy, Chinese art in the bones. Books, such as also, such as their learning, such as their talents, such as their aspirations, in short, such as their people. Infuse the meaning of life into writing, spread out time in the depths of the soul, pen and ink through the long river.