Qishan noodles

(I am @French teacher Zhu, if you like my article, you are welcome to like, leave a message and forward, thank you very much!) ）

If it weren't for going to Carrefour in Lower Merlin that night to buy a bottle of olive oil, I would never have found this small restaurant selling authentic Chishan noodles.

At night, I came out of Carrefour in Merlin Village, empty in the stomach, and although the KFC and Pizza Hut's glamorous storefronts were full of diners, they could not arouse my appetite at all.

I crossed the road and wandered around to an urban village with a dense concentration of peasant houses. Later, I learned that this place is called Riverback Village. In the twilight, there are bare-chested men walking around, women in cotton-printed pajamas, and satisfied diners scattered around the roadside.

The signs on both sides of a narrow road beat with flavors from all over the country: Xiangyou large bowl dish, Sichuan spicy hot, Chaoshan casserole porridge, Henan lamb braised noodles, Lanzhou beef ramen... In the colorful choice, I began to be confused until I saw a small signboard: "Xiqi People's Home".

In Shenzhen, there are many restaurants known for their Shaanxi flavors, such as Shaanxi Lao'anjia in Huaqiang North, Hanji on Baden Street, and Shaanxi flavor in the East. But in these restaurants, it is difficult to eat authentic Qishan snacks, such as noodles, and rolling dough skins with extremely complicated production processes, and even if they do, the taste is also very off-topic.

I walked into this small shop of only about ten square meters with a glimmer of hope, and the owner was a thin young man with glasses, sitting quietly behind the counter. A small waiter in a dirty apron and speaking vinegar-slipping Shaanxi Mandarin greeted me and brought me an open-mouthed teacup.

According to the records in the book, Qishan Zhenzi noodles have a long history, and the Qing Dynasty has been very famous. It is famous for thin, tendon, light, frying, thin, wang, sour, spicy and fragrant, and is made with refined white flour, pork, yellow cauliflower, eggs, fungus, tofu, garlic seedlings and other raw materials and a variety of condiments.

The noodles must be rolled by hand, and the noodles should be thin and thin, and the tendons should be smooth. The pork is sliced into thin slices, sautéed in a pan of hot oil, while ginger, salt, seasoning noodles, spicy noodles and aged vinegar are stir-fried. Stir-fry tofu, broccoli and fungus as a base dish, spread the eggs into egg skins, cut into prismatic pieces, and add small garlic seedlings to make bleach.

When I was a child, when I ate my mother's cheek noodles, I always thought it was "whistle noodles", I couldn't understand what was the inevitable connection between noodles and whistles, why should I put whistles in noodles?

On those hot summer days, in the web of hoarse cicadas, I was always confused when I poured my mother's self-created "whistle" of diced meat, diced tofu, diced carrots, and diced potatoes on the white and tender noodles.

The bowl of long-awaited noodles is on the table, and qishan noodles pay attention to the wide soup noodles, that is, the soup must be greatly overwhelmed. In a bowl of soup mixed with diced pork, tomatoes, fungus, yellow cauliflower, and the color language of the diced tofu, the slender translucent hand-rolled noodles fluttered.

Picking up a cluster of noodles, it rolls softly and toughly on the tongue, blows out a layer of white gas, takes a sip of soup, and the thick tomato acid runs with various flavors and feelings: the crispness of the fungus, the elasticity of the broccoli, the aroma of the pork, the softness of the diced tofu. Let this mouth mix the tastes of each voice chorus.

Tomatoes from their hometown in the Americas could not have imagined that they would be treated so solemnly in Shaanxi. Without tomatoes, Shaanxi people seem to have no clue: a bowl of noodles, or a bowl of lamb steamed bun soup, always hides its red figure.

Shanxi people like the acid of vinegar, while Shaanxi people love the acid of tomatoes. I found out that day that in Shaanxi, the largest use of tomatoes seems to be the Qishan people, and the sourness index in the bowl of cheek noodle soup makes me a little sour.

I somewhat understand why the Qishan Zhenzi noodles in too many Shaanxi restaurants in Shenzhen have been greatly improved, and the taste is getting farther and farther away from the authentic, because the sour taste of tomatoes in the authentic Zhenzi noodle soup is not eaten by everyone's stomach.

What surprised me the most was that the hand-rolled surface was thin and thin, almost transparent and crystalline, and the size was uniform, as if measured with the most precise scale.

I asked the waiter, who spoke vinegary Mandarin, "Is this a hand roll?" She said "yes" expressionlessly, as if to say, "What's the big deal?" ”

I picked up this thin and long white jade face, and I couldn't bear to destroy it. I am full of respect for the chef who made this work of art

It gets dark and diners gradually fill every empty seat. Although the location of this small shop is very out of the way, there are many repeat customers. Listening to the accent, most of them are Shaanxi people, they are familiar with the boss to say hello, ask for a noodle noodles or rolled dough skin, meat sandwich steamed buns, in the air full of hometown feelings, tired day they quietly enjoy a delicious dinner.

The owner of Sven sometimes greeted the diners in Shaanxi dialect, and sometimes sat there quietly, smiling and watching the satisfied customers in this narrow shop get their nostalgia released.

I suddenly felt a little envious of this man: I moved a bowl of noodles from my hometown to a distant foreign land, quietly stayed in a small shop, waiting for one fellow countryman to find him.

In this small world, he could speak his hometown dialect to the people who came and went every day, watching them contented and happy in his bowl of noodles. In the so-called sense of accomplishment, this is also a kind of one, right?

(The picture of this article is from the network)

(Click "Learn more" at the end of the article: "Huainan King Beef Soup")

Zhihu: Teacher Zhu of French

Today's headline: French teacher Zhu

Himalaya FM: Micro French Classroom

WeChat public account: Micro French classroom