In all corners of the city, there are many landmarks with which we have "deep friendship", even some of which are thousands of years old.
Cities are the solid memory of history, some bridges and alleys have stood for thousands of years, and some cities have been boiling for eternity. Timeless urban landmarks retain the old days for the thriving city, and also silently accompany Chengdu people to the future across time.
Old Chengdu people like to say that the direction of this city is the southeast and northwest gates, today we will walk together to the West Gate boundary, more specific point is the Chengdu Metro important station "Traditional Chinese Medicine Provincial Hospital" around, see how a small triangle here has become an important source of chengdu cultural self-confidence:
The immortals drove to the Qingyang Palace, asked for medical advice, the University of Traditional Chinese Medicine, and the Twelve Bridges of the Revolution. Three landmarks with countless knowledge points, the construction of a ring road city life circle, these places have been silently shining.
Qingyang Palace (Visual China)
The birth of the Qingyang Palace is summarized by a song: "Qingyang Official, Qingyang Palace, Taishang Laojun sits in the middle." The copper sheep cures all diseases, and the green cow shows its miraculous powers. ”
The most common cultural labels of this famous attraction are "the first Taoist temple in western Sichuan" and "the first jungle in the southwest", standing next to the South River, and the traffic outside the Qingyang Palace today is busy, mostly busy office workers and people who come to and from the Provincial Hospital of Traditional Chinese Medicine to see a doctor, and there is a sense of anxiety and urgency between the rush.
In ancient times, qingyang shops, in the Tang Dynasty or even earlier, were famous markets and were "the first place in the country to hold expositions", and the grand situation continued until the 1980s and 1990s.
At the beginning of the 20th century, Ruth Naedé's photograph of the Chengdu Qingyang Palace Outside The Bazaar
As the birthplace of Lao Tzu, here not only a grand temple fair will also hold a lively "flower party" every year, every time the flowers are colorful, performances, food constitute human fireworks, in 1962, the first official lantern festival was also held here, the lanterns are haunting, the flowers are full of clothes, it is a different scene that has long been missing.
"Every year, when the 'Flower Catching Party' arrives, the old and young people in the city flock out of the city, along the city wall roots, the Jinjiang River, and all the way to the Qingyang Palace through Liuyin Street."
"The food stalls set up among the bamboo trees are a highlight of the flower fair, a row of bamboo sheds, a slip of wooden tables and stools, and a signboard hanging, attracting diners from the 'flower party' to flock to the festival." In addition to Zhang Liang powder, sugar oil fruits, and three cannons, which are known as the 'food overlords' between the flowers, there are also Lai Tangyuan in Zongfu Street, Zhong Shui Dumplings in Lychee Lane, Han Buns in Dajin Street, Fat Sausage Powder of Baijia, Crispy Pot Helmet of Juntun, Lung Slices of Huangcheng Dam, Ye Erzhu of Huaiyuan, Osmanthus Cake of Xindu, Ding Ding Candy of Guanxian County, and so on, and there are countless snacks. "--- "Searching for the City, Chengdu"
The wheel of history has changed the appearance of Qingyang Palace several times, and this Taoist temple has gone from being nameless to endlessly incense candles, experiencing the prosperity of the Tang Dynasty, walking through the turmoil of the 60s, and making important contributions to the preservation of cultural heritage in the past 80 years - reprinting the large-scale Taoist series "Daozang Jijiao" so that it can survive in the world.
Qingyang Palace in Late Autumn and Early Winter (Visual China)
The current Qingyang Palace seems to be much more low-key than Wenshu Monastery and Daci Temple, and the temple that has not been labeled as an Internet celebrity still retains a tranquility. For locals, rather than calling it a tourist attraction, Qingyang Palace is more like a stronghold of chengdu people's spiritual and cultural life, and further west along it is the antique market of The Xianqiao and the Sichuan Museum, and the customs and customs of Chengdu and the clouds and smoke of the old days continue to spread outward from this small point.
And the power of watching history and retaining history in this area is still continuing.
Walking along the Qingyang Palace to the inner ring, in less than ten minutes, there is a historical site and museum "hidden" here. Just opposite the famous provincial hospital, many people often pass by, but never know that there is such a "magical" place.
The museum, which officially opened after its renovation in May this year, carries a very heavy history.
The courtyard in the museum is quiet, quiet and quaint. Image source Sui Tang Kiln Site Museum
Stepping into the door of the kiln site museum, the life in front of the hospital, the non-stop hoof of the first ring road is like opening the silent mode, the predecessor of the museum is the office building of the Chengdu Archaeological Team, the old-fashioned courtyard structure allows here to enjoy a green mood, and the old ginkgo biloba in the courtyard also makes the impetuous heart calm down immediately.
Although the overall scale of the museum is not large, it contains a complete set of history of kiln making in the Chengdu Plain, and it is also a picture of the life of the ancient Shu people.
In ancient times, the workshops of the kilns were generally set up along the river to obtain water, so the Huanhua Creek outside the Qingyang Palace nourished the Qingyang Palace kilns here. The historical products of the Chengdu Plain are not only Shu Brocade, from living utensils, architectural parts to funeral figurines, the developed pottery industry has also shaped all aspects of the life of the Shu people in ancient times.
In the courtyard, there is the earliest and more complete preserved Qin and Han mantou kiln in the Qingyang Palace kiln site, which is a provincial cultural relic.
Qingyang Palace kiln is the earliest kiln found in the Chengdu Plain so far, excavation began in the 1950s, and now the site is more well-protected qin and Han pottery kiln, Sui short dragon kiln and Tang Dynasty mantou kiln 7 kilns, as well as a variety of small objects of town hall treasure reflect the ancient people's never mediocre life taste.
The unique shape and details of the celadon tiger, the fat body and the short limbs of the queen-like corgi dog, its real identity is actually a sanitary vessel - the night pot.
Multi-legged porcelain stone - whether it is the object itself or its design concept is condensed in the cultural quality of the ancient Shu people, multi-foot design originates from an architectural shape: Peiyong, is the Western Zhou Tianzi for the education of aristocratic children set up a university, take the water around, shaped like a bi ring for the name, use it to design the Yantai, is the romance of the literati.
People who like household items may be stunning when they see here, this green color white porcelain cup completely overlaps with the current aesthetic trend, the light color of white and green and the slightly rough texture, and the aesthetics are also in the cycle of inheritance.
Perhaps it is the prosperity of the Qingyang Palace on that day that makes the production and sale of these ceramic utensils form a good commercial atmosphere, it is not difficult to imagine the lively scenes on the Qingyang Palace market, the food and play with the linger, the pedestrians are bustling, and the life in Chengdu is in full swing.
Now the Sui and Tang Dynasty Kiln Site Museum is still open for free to visit, and this niche museum of treasures in the downtown area is waiting for you to see the miniature development history of people's lives on the Chengdu Plain.
Five minutes further from the Sui and Tang Dynasty Kiln Site Museum, you will come to chengdu's most popular traffic landmark - the Provincial Hospital of Traditional Chinese Medicine Subway Station, a total of 10 exits beat the City Heart Tianfu Square Metro Station, becoming the most exit station at present, as the intersection of Line 2, 4, 5 Here is also one of the largest transit stations in the city.
The footsteps inside the subway station are hurried, the river outside the subway station is endless, guarding the two major hospitals, looking at the incense of qingyang palace, this area is "medical body" and "medical heart".
Looking back at Chengdu University of Traditional Chinese Medicine, there is also an extraordinary history, founded in 1956, it is one of the first four traditional Chinese medicine colleges and universities established in New China, and the Affiliated Hospital of Chinese Medicine is also the most important hospital for traditional Chinese medicine treatment in Sichuan Province. The university moved from Sidao Street to its current location at the beginning of its establishment, and over the years the school has cultivated talents, the affiliated hospital has cured patients, and the vigorous vitality around the university has always been lingering in the surrounding small streets and alleys.
One of the first buildings of Chengdu College of Traditional Chinese Medicine. Image source Chengdu University of Traditional Chinese Medicine official website
Exit D of the Provincial Hospital Station of Traditional Chinese Medicine is the Sichuan Radio and Television University established at the end of 1978, and is now renamed Sichuan Open University.
Upgraded Jujube Lane
The back door of the TCM university is Zaozi Lane, and the front of jujube lane is not far from the wide and narrow alley, in the eyes of the post-70s and post-80s, there are also a lot of childhood memories around the TCM University.
When the coffee shop was not yet emerging, there would be one of the most fashionable dating places at that time in three or five steps - the water bar, the menu was basically full of fruit tea or sweet coffee on the plate; when Taobao online shopping had not yet appeared, a number of the most fashionable foreign trade stores at that time had long been born here, levi and skateboard shoes to create a generation of fashionable youth.
Put on the new coat of Jujube Lane
The unremarkable watch shops and grocery stores in the alleys are decades old
After the transformation of Zaozi Lane, it is inevitable that it has also been labeled with some Internet celebrities, and the unified planning and design of the building's exterior walls and roads may bring a hint of strangeness, but the most avant-garde barber shop that opened in elementary school is still there, and even the name has not been changed, and the store has been upgraded.
Barbershops that cut non-mainstream hairstyles for the previous generation of young people are still patronizing.
Outside a low wall in the middle of the alley was once the hospital morgue that terrified me as a child, but now I look up at it and there is a new snow-white white cross sign, and the fear is gone, replaced by tourists who come from the wide and narrow alleys and the long dragon who stops at the back door of the Chinese medicine hall.
There is also a socialist college with a bit of history in Zaozi Lane, often referred to as "Sheyuaner", where the famous calligrapher, painter, poet and scholar Huang Zhiquan lived in his later years. There is more than one cultural celebrity in this short alley, the scholar Liu Zihua also lived in Zaozi Lane before his death, and there is also a major adviser of Chiang Kai-shek, Dai Jitao, who was buried here after his death.
An alley connects the lives of generations, and the past and present dynasties here are also a portrayal of the life of countless Alleys in Chengdu.
Old view of Tonghui Gate and Twelve Bridges
Back to the front gate of the University of Chinese Medicine and then go to the city center, immediately arrive at the Tonghui Gate and the Twelve Bridges, just look at the name to know that there is another place with historical accumulation.
And the name of the twelve bridges does have a saying, it is rumored that Song Yuren came to the newly built twelve bridges, saw that the railing of the bridge is twelve squares, and then looked at the surrounding scenery is very comfortable, so he thought of Du Mu's sentence "Twenty-four bridges bright moon night, where the jade people teach blowing pipes" I think the beauty here and the beauty of Yangzhou can be divided in half, so it is recommended to name it "Twelve Bridges".
At present, the 12th Bridge head still retains a landmark commemorating historical events and revolutionary heroes
History has a poetic and romantic place, there will also be a tragic sigh of fragments, Tonghuimen witnessed many bloody and tearful events in the history of the Chengdu revolution, here once erected the "Twelve Bridges Martyrs Monument" is to commemorate the Communist Party members and revolutionary progressives who were killed by the Kuomintang on the eve of the liberation of Chengdu.
On the other side of the bridge, the strange noodles have also been open for decades
The excavation site of the Twelve Bridges site, picture source China Archaeological Network
The Twelve Bridges have always had a hidden attraction, that is, the Shang Dynasty architectural ruins excavated in 1985, the scale is more than 10,000 square meters, scholars later named the Twelve Bridges Archaeological Culture Type as the Twelve Bridges Culture, the road has been widened several times, and the ancient Shu culture buried under the wide Shudu Avenue today is still playing an important value.
The tributaries of the South River flowing under the Twelve Bridges connect it all the way with qingyang palace and the provincial hospital of traditional Chinese medicine, just forming a triangle. The important landmarks of the three west gates, there are too many memorable places in the past life and this life, from the strange noodles at the head of the twelve bridges, the Han buns at the entrance of the Qingyang Palace, to the Vancouver Plaza opposite the Chinese Medicine University, some of which seem to never change, such as the city lifestyle loved by Chengdu people, and some changes are about to move.
The qintai old path adjacent to the twelve bridges
This triangle stronghold of the old West Gate firmly guards the "First Ring Road City Life Circle", and the rapid economic development has not made them unrecognizable, and the rhythm of urban upgrading and transformation is also catching up.
On the one hand, the streets and alleys that are difficult to reproduce given by history and culture, on the other hand, the spirit of new businesses and new communities is flying, the new appearance of Chengdu slowly overlaps, and the future is roaring in challenges.
——Man Chengdu. Cities -
The text | Mei Shiyu
Edit | Penny
Image | Man Chengdu, courtesy of interviewees, Visual China
Executive Producer 丨 Wang Hong