Walk the Europa series
Italy had four major maritime republics in the Middle Ages: Amalfi, Venice, Genoa, and Pisa, among which the Republic of Amalfi started the earliest (850 AD) due to its natural geographical advantages.
The Amalfi Coast (Costiera Amalfitana) is located in south-central Italy, bordering the Tyrrhenian Sea (central Mediterranean). Due to the complex headland landform and unique history and culture, it has formed a mountain and sea landscape belt that stretches for more than 60 kilometers, and has been rated as a world cultural heritage (1997) and one of the 50 beautiful places that must be visited in a lifetime by National Geographic magazine.
▲ Figure 1, the center of the Amalfi Coast, the town of Amalfi.
It is precisely because of the historical background of the "Four Great Maritime Republics" that I visited the Amalfi Coast. I headed south in a counterclockwise direction from Naples, with my first stop being Sorrento.
Sorrento is located 49 km southeast of Naples. Because of the rugged mountain road, it takes 1 hour and 5 minutes by car.
▲ Figure 2, Amalfi Coast - Sorrento.
Sorrento, or Surento, is known as the land of folk songs. This is where the Italian song "Return to Sorrento" comes in. The lyrics of "Return to Sorrento" are to the effect:
Behold, the waves ripple gently, and the heart stirs up infinite laughter,
The beautiful scenery is extravagant, and the spring water road of Huapo is full of fragrance.
Behold, the orchard is golden, and the oranges are growing on the slopes.
There are bursts of fragrance, and my heart is full of sunshine.
But thou hast said goodbye to me, and thou hast ever been far from me,
Leave your lovely hometown behind and stay far away forever.
Please don't abandon me, don't grieve me anymore.
Return to Sorrento, back to me.
▲ Figure 3, Amalfi Coast - Sorrento.
On August 13, 2012, CCTV Music Channel broadcast the world's three major tenors Pavarotti (Italy), Domingo (Spain) and Carreras (Spain) singing "Return to Surento" in the Forbidden City in Beijing, making this Italian folk song almost familiar to everyone in China.
But the Amalfi Coast's narrow and rugged mountain roads and few places to stop are daunting. When you are nervous by the steep cliffs in front of you, but there are whistling drag racing parties in front of you, what else do you want to enjoy the scenery?
▲ Figure 4, the mountain road in Amalfi, the craziest thing is the crowd of motorcycles.
▲ Figure 5, such a narrow mountain road, this BMW car from France actually stopped to take pictures.
▲ Figure 6, "Green Hole" parking lot, it is not easy to find a parking space.
When the palms of your hands are sweaty, it's too hard to make romantic chicken soup for your soul.
We weren't Italian locals and couldn't afford to spend a lot of time looking for a parking space, so we ended up having to take in the sights of Sorrento and leave in a hurry. Later, this was also the case in other parts of the Amalfi Coast (more on the town of Amalfi in the next section), and there was no relaxation at all to immerse yourself in the sea and mountains here. Strangely enough, the mountain roads of the Dolomites are more tortuous and steep than here, but I don't have this psychological shadow on the Amalfi Coast, it seems that the praise of Amalfi in the American "National Geographic" is exaggerated, and in the end it is not attractive enough for me!
Positano is located 16 km east of Sorrento, 30 minutes by car. Known as the back garden of socialites, Positano is said to be the prettiest place on the Amalfi Coast. However, the roads are still narrow and parking is difficult, and unless you stay overnight and wander the streets, the average tourist can only catch a glimpse.
▲ Figure 7, Amalfi Coast-Positano overlook.
▲ Figure 8, Amalfi Coast-Positano.
▲ Figure 9, Amalfi Coast - Positano.
▲ Figure 10, Amalfi Coast - Positano.
▲ Figure 11, Amalfi Coast - Positano.
▲ Figure 12, Amalfi Coast - Positano.
But I think it's probably more interesting to look at it from afar than to go deep into it, and keeping your distance will give you some room for imagination. If you do walk into the streets, those "very Italian" mirrors may undermine your initial expectations.
Conca dei Marini is located 13 km east of Positano, 31 minutes by car. I came here because I heard that there is a "green hole" (Grotta dello smeraldo) that is the same name as the "Blue Hole" in Capri. It's just that when I visited this "Green Hole", I didn't feel as beautiful as the "Blue Hole" in Capri.
▲ Figure 13, Amalfi Coast - near the "Green Hole".
▲ 图14、"绿洞"(Emerald Cave)需从此门下山,然后乘坐电梯降至洞口。
▲ Figure 15, Amalfi Coast - "Green Hole" Cave Entrance.
▲ Figure 16, the "green hole" is so large on the water surface. 15 euros per person. Gratuities are not included.
▲ Figure 17, Amalfi Coast - "Green Hole".
▲ Figure 18, Amalfi Coast - "Green Hole".
▲ Figure 19, Amalfi Coast - "Green Hole".
Since the "Green Hole" of Amalfi is mentioned as famous as the "Blue Hole" of Capri, it is worth comparing it.
▲ Figure 20, here has reached the Blue Grotto in Capri, but the entrance of the cave is not visible.
The entrance of the Blue Cave is just under the cliff, and the width of the hole is only 2 meters, but the cave is relatively spacious. Inside the 22-meter-deep cave, a dazzling blue light is reflected from sunlight on a sunny day. To be able to enjoy the peculiar landscape of the Blue Grotto, there are several conditions: a sunny day; small wind and waves; Low tide period. Luckily, I had all of these things in place when I arrived in Capri in June 2017.
▲ Figure 21, the blue hole in Capri.
▲ Figure 22, the Blue Grotto in Capri.
▲ Figure 23, the blue hole in Capri.
The blue hole in Capri is much larger than the green hole in Amalfi, and the blue hole in Capri can be seen with a dazzling blue light when entered, while the green hole in Amalfi has to be slapped on the surface of the water to see the dazzling green light. In comparison, Capri's Blue Hole beats Amalfi's Green Hole.
Without a doubt, the focus of the Amalfi coastal landscape is on the small town of Amalfi, the capital of the Republic of Amalfi, which will be discussed in the next section.
2024-6-30