Malone wins PRADA! Wang Jiaer wallet is in a hurry! This season's Milan Men's Week highlight collection

The 2022 Autumn and Winter Milan Men's Wear Week ended yesterday, although due to the impact of the epidemic, many big names are absent from the offline catwalk, slightly lonely, but the "Cloud Show Guest Seat" of major brands is still star-studded.

What is more worth recalling is that many brands have returned to simplicity, regained pragmatism, and reinvented the classics while incorporating many surprise designs. Let's review it with Rui Sauce.

PRADA - Dream back a decade

The brand that brought the most surprises to Milan Men's Wear Week this season is Prada!

Two days before the show, the brand first brought the first surprise to Chinese fans through the show preview video: the official announcement of the captain of the men's table tennis team - Ma Long! Become a Prada brand ambassador! He is also Prada's first athlete ambassador in China.

Prada, who takes the elite route, does not fit too well with the aura of our "Ping-Pong Dragon"!

Prada's selection of people has never disappointed, whether it is Ma Long, or the two brand spokespersons Cai Xukun and Li Yifeng who participated in the "Cloud Show", as well as the new actor Bai Yufan, are all male stars with a fresh temperament and fashionable dress.

This season's show, still built by the architecture studio AMO, which has been collaborated many times, has turned the Prada Foundation's Deposito Hall into a "traversal scene".

The models emerge from the futuristic tunnel and come to the theater filled with olive green theater chairs, like time travelers returning to reality from the future.

What surprised everyone even more was that among the fashionable men who walked out of the tunnel, there were ten famous Hollywood movie stars! For example, Kyle MacLachlan of "Desperate Housewives" is responsible for the opening, and the closing scene is Jeff Goldblum of "Jurassic Park", as well as Thomas Sangster of "Moving Maze" and many other movie stars.

This star-studded catwalk lineup has made countless old fans dream back to the same star-studded Fall/Winter 2012 menswear show ten years ago. The audience who had an endless taste of that show could not forget the movie emperors who had an aura of ten meters, wore military coats, and served as models.

Adrien Brody

《Grand Budapest Hotel》

2012FW-Gary Oldman

"This Killer Is Not Too Cold"

At this season's show, Rui Sauce also saw the shadow of the military uniform.

As Aunt Miao and Raf Simons argue: Work is a state of reality, an important component of life. Prada's Fall/Winter 2022 Menswear Show, designed with the theme of "Working Body", aims to create practical and attractive "work uniforms" for elite men.

Therefore, from the trench-like silhouette of this season's coats, the exquisite cut of the suit, and the shoulder pad design of hourglass leather coats and cotton coats, it can be seen that the inspiration for this season's "work uniforms" comes more from the military uniform.

Because of the strict contour lines of the military uniform, the elegant and masculine masculine charm can be best displayed; moreover, the prototype of the military uniform, which symbolizes power and prestige, is easier to create a gentleman with a sense of honor.

Speaking of "work uniforms", of course, workwear is also inseparable, and this season's nylon and leather cargo suits and one-piece suits have bright, fresh colors and offer a variety of options for young gentlemen.

Since Raf Simons became Aunt Miao's "best partner", looking for Raf's design logo in Prada's new ready-to-wear every season has also become a pleasure for many fashion people.

This season's "Raf symbols" are very distinct, those oversize baseball coats that are so wide that they need to be corseted, and Raf's handy ink prints, all with the name "Raf Simons", which is also the trend DNA that Raf brings to the refined and elegant Prada.

The most eye-catching bag of this season is the backpack. Whether it is a "twin" design or a large triangle shape, it is a "bombing street weapon".

The invincible small triangle belt bag is also very interesting, because the super mini body shape, not in the front or back can be, especially suitable for the shape of the difficult.

FENDI - Regression and Reinvention

Before the Fendi show began, Zhang Ruoyun, the brand leather goods spokesperson, And Zhou Keyu, Hu Xianxu and many other popular male stars warmed up for the brand on Weibo, and the star effect was played by Fendi.

Silvia Venturini Fendi, artistic director of menswear, said that in the post-epidemic era, sweatshirts and pajamas should be thrown away, everyone needs to dress up, and more importantly, classic clothing that can attend various occasions.

As a result, the 2022 autumn and winter men's wear series, a total of 54 styles, each style is grown on the aesthetic point of Rui Sauce.

Silvia Venturini Fendi interprets the classics in rich, calm cream, earth and black and white. These diverse but unobtrusive colour schemes, combined with the finest traditional fabrics, the label's signature patterns and classic patterns, perfectly depict the precious texture and elegant gentlemanly spirit of menswear.

While returning to the classic, we must also reshape the classic. This season uses a variety of fun ways to subvert the fixed form of menswear classic styles.

For example, a blazer that is opened from the side or back looks more like a cape coat, giving men a variety of fashion charms.

Adopting new proportions, ultra-short jackets and suits that highlight long legs, as well as men's skirts, Mary Jane shoes, etc., the items that jump out of the men's frame are Fendi's practical design for modern men, while also presenting the unrestricted fashion attitude of modern men.

Rui Sauce has a premonition that Wang Jiaer, the brand spokesperson who dresses unconventionally, will soon take back these "deviant" items.

This season's accessories also have a luxurious texture, with wool floral brooches, pearl O'Lock neck necklaces, crystal FF pendants and luxury technology accessories created by LEDGER Nano X.

ZEGNA - Texture control king

Compared with the image of the old cadres a few years ago, zegna, which is now young and textured, is really refreshing! Especially the men's collections of these seasons.

As expected, Zegna's Fall/Winter 2022 menswear collection is another collection that people can fall in love with madly.

Without any fancy design elements, the mind is completely on the fabric and cut, and it is exquisite enough to be applauded. The color scheme is also stunning, such as soft salt white, frost white and rock gray, as well as deep ebony and mahogany brown colors of nature.

This season's brand art director Alessandro Sartori blurs the boundaries between indoor and outdoor wear, emphasizing the seamless connection between indoor and outdoor life with multi-layered overlaps and the fusion of different styles and functions.

However, the ability to stack different pieces at will is also due to Zegna's control of the fit of each piece! The sleek silhouette, smooth lines and no mud-and-water cut ensure a feel for movement.

The high-necked, baggable neckline and flowing wavy placket play a role in combining rigidity and softness, making the smart, minimalist design interesting and bright.

The most difficult to control the texture control is this series of dense fabrics, such as huada, waterproof wool, high-tech mulberry silk, wool denim, and the newly developed Oassi Cashmere technology fabric, which interprets the concept of menswear design and refined wear without omission.

TOD'S - Italian Retro Style

After watching Tod's Fall/Winter 2022 menswear collection, Rui Sauce seems to see the wardrobe of brand spokesperson Xiao Zhan.

Themed "Italian Road Trip", Creative Director Walter Chiapponi has created a vintage wardrobe for gentlemen, with vintage coats, cashmere coats, down jackets, vintage jackets, lamb down jackets and other items fashionable and practical.

This season, whether it is the innovation of clothing weaving techniques, or the choice of materials and color schemes, TOD'S's control of details is very stable, creating a modern and elegant, retro and stylish Italian style for men.

Every piece this season is friendly, not a picky one, and it feels like every man can wear it.

Probably due to the impact of the epidemic, many brands this season have abandoned the noisy design and focused on the wearing experience, which makes men's clothing week less of a lot of unnecessary gimmicks and more designs worth revisiting.

(Image source: brand Weibo, brand show information, star Weibo, ins)

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