After eating saltwater duck for so many years, you still have a deep misunderstanding of "Nanjing cuisine"

　　When it comes to Nanjing cuisine, people all over the country can blurt out - Nanjing saltwater duck, Nanjing roast duck, Nanjing duck blood vermicelli soup. If you say a few more, you don't seem to know what to say, let alone what kind of cuisine Nanjing cuisine is, what flavor it is, and what is unique.

　　In fact, Nanjing people speak Jianghuai official dialect, but Nanjing cuisine is not a "Huai" series. For a long time, when it comes to Jiangsu cuisine, everyone will think of Huaiyang cuisine, and Nanjing cuisine is also "naturally" classified into the scope of Huaiyang cuisine. Recently, the Nanjing Catering Chamber of Commerce held the "Excavating and Creating the First Media Gathering Salon of Nanjing Cuisine" to justify the name of Nanjing cuisine. Food culture experts pointed out that Nanjing cuisine is not Huaiyang cuisine, And Nanjing cuisine has its own unique skills and regional characteristics.

　　traceability

　　"Eight cuisines" is a "post-80s"

　　Nowadays, when it comes to the cuisine of a certain place, people prefer to say which of the eight major cuisines is the one, but the term "eight major cuisines" is a "post-80s", the same age as the Spring Festival Gala. Zhu Baoding, the former principal of Nanjing Commercial Technical School, was a student of the first cooking training class of Nanjing Catering Company at that time, and learned cooking skills with Jinling chef Hu Changling.

　　"In the past, there was no cuisine, only the saying of helping the mouth, such as the Division of the Beijing-Suzhou Gang, the Shanghai Gang, and the Hangzhou Gang." Zhu Baoding told reporters that in 1983, the former Ministry of Commerce held the "First National Culinary Master Technical Performance Appraisal Meeting" in the Great Hall of the People, he participated in the appraisal meeting, from preparation to competition, he said: "The competition was not long, only five days, the Catering Service Bureau of the Ministry of Commerce at that time proposed that China's food culture is broad and profound, how to divide dishes from the region? In the summer of that year, before the appraisal meeting was held, the People's Daily issued an editorial before officially proposing the eight major cuisines. ”

　　Since the 1983 Culinary Master Technical Performance Appraisal Conference, there has been a debate between the "eight major cuisines" and the "four major cuisines".

　　classify

　　Nanjing cuisine is a Jiangsu dish

　　A chapter of great color

　　The eight major cuisines are: Su cuisine, Lu cuisine, Sichuan cuisine, Cantonese cuisine, Fujian cuisine, Zhejiang cuisine, Hunan cuisine, and Hui cuisine. But I don't know when people talk about the eight major cuisines, other cuisines are referred to as provinces, and when it comes to Jiangsu cuisine, it has become "Huaiyang cuisine".

　　We checked the information and found that the controversy over what can represent Jiangsu cuisine has never stopped from the private sector to the industry. The National Humanistic History once published an article entitled "How did the theory of China's "Eight Major Cuisines" come about?" In 1987, when the China Cuisine Association was established, even the Jiangsu deputies were divided, and many people opposed the use of Huaiyang cuisine to refer to Jiangsu cuisine, believing that Huaiyang could only be on the same level as Nanjing, SuXi, and Xu Haiping.

　　Although there are still differences of opinion in the academic community on whether there is a unified Jiangsu cuisine, there does not seem to be any disagreement on the existence of four major flavor dishes in Jiangsu, and Zhu Baoding also agrees to divide Jiangsu cuisine into these four kinds - Nanjing cuisine, Huaiyang cuisine, Suxi cuisine and Xuhai cuisine.

　　"Huaiyang cuisine is mainly based on the Grand Canal, from Yangzhou in the south to Lianghuai in the north; Suxi cuisine includes Suzhou and Wuxi, west to Changshu, and east to Shanghai, Songjiang, and Jiading are all in this range; Xuhai cuisine refers to Xuzhou and Lianyungang; and Nanjing cuisine refers to dishes centered on Nanjing."

　　In Nanjing, at the junction of north and south, tolerance is the label of the city. "Roast duck, brine duck, you can take it, does not mean that there are no vegetables in Nanjing." Song Jialing, secretary general of the Nanjing Restaurant Chamber of Commerce, said: "Why we should revisit the creation of Nanjing cuisine is to officially tell everyone that Nanjing cuisine is still a cultural part of the city and the soul of the city." We can accept other (food culture), but we can't forget about Nanjing cuisine. ”

　　Conclusion

　　Nanjing cuisine is not Huaiyang cuisine has a wonderful name "Jingsu cuisine"

　　In the history of Chinese cuisine, the first concept similar to "cuisine" appeared in the Republic of China period. To this day, a certain gang is used to refer to the flavors of a specific region, such as "Ben Gang Cuisine" and "Hangzhou Gang Cuisine", which are still very popular in the Yangtze River Delta region. Of course, the earliest origin of the word "help" is not related to the catering industry.

　　Nanjing cuisine has always been known as "Jingsu cuisine", and Nanjing chefs also call themselves "Jingsu Gang". During the Republic of China period, although there were various kinds of cooking helpers, The Beijing and Su cuisines still dominated the various gangs. Song Jialing, secretary general of the Nanjing Catering Chamber of Commerce, analyzed that because Nanjing has four distinct seasons and rich products, it can be seen from the nearly 100 kinds of aquatic products, livestock, vegetables, melons and fruits recorded in the book "White Gate Recipes" published by the Republic of China. "More importantly, there were consumers in Nanjing at that time." As the capital of the Republic of China, Nanjing cuisine has a huge consumer market and crowd, and politics and the official culture derived from it have stimulated the rapid development of the catering industry. Today, most of Nanjing's long-established restaurants have an indelible past of the Republic of China.

　　A long time ago, many restaurants in Nanjing also wrote the words "Jingsu Cuisine" on the Yang Lian. Many old Nanjing people still remember the appearance of this restaurant, with the big sign "Yiji Revival" in the center, flanked by "Jingsu Dacai" and "Weiyang Fine Point", which is eye-catching. According to Ding Shu, deputy secretary-general of the Nanjing Long-established Association, Yiji Fuxing Restaurant is the predecessor of Jiangsu restaurants, which was named "Fuxing" at that time because the victory of the Anti-Japanese War was not long ago, and it needed to be revitalized, and some famous chefs wanted to revive The Beijing-Suzhou cuisine.

　　Nowadays, when it comes to "Jingsu cuisine", most people can't understand it, and I'm afraid they will wonder, is this Beijing cuisine or Jiangsu cuisine? Hu Changling once explained, "At that time, Beijing was called Beiping, 'Beijing' specifically referred to Nanjing, and 'Su' meant Jiangsu. 'Big dish' is to describe the preciousness, elegance, beauty and generosity of Nanjing cuisine. ”

　　history

　　Nanjing food culture has been famous since ancient times

　　Song Jialing, secretary general of the Nanjing Restaurant Chamber of Commerce, said: "Republic of China cuisine is a trace of the history of Nanjing cuisine, which is not equivalent to the whole of Nanjing cuisine. "When did the Nanjing cuisine appear, and there are different theories." In the "Excavation and Creation of Nanjing Cuisine First Media Gathering Wisdom Salon", some experts said, "The earliest belief is that it was in the Spring and Autumn Period 2400 years ago; it is also said that it was in the Three Kingdoms: after the establishment of Sun Wudingdu, Nanjing, as the largest commercial port, Jinling High-rollers 'Pearl Clothing Jade Food', catering was extremely popular; some people used the Six Dynasties 'Heavenly Kitchen Yu' to prove that the cooking technology at that time reached a very high level." ”

　　In any case, the history of the formation of Nanjing cuisine must be long. As the ancient capital of the Six Dynasties and the capital of the Ten Dynasties, it has been handed down for thousands of years, of course, not only the "Eight Perfections of Qinhuai", but also the food culture has been famous since ancient times, such as the vegetarian cuisine of Nanjing during the Wei and Jin Dynasties and the Southern and Northern Dynasties.

　　Speaking of the "Eight Absolute Qinhuai", it is also a great source. Song Jialing said: "The 'Eight Absolutes of Qinhuai' originated from the 'Four Absolutes' of the 1940s: Liu Changxing's thin-skinned buns and small knife noodles, Liu Fengju's shallot oil cakes and tofu brains, Jinchun Pot Stickers' chicken soup and hot pot stickers, Yongheyuan's hot dried silk and shortbread cakes. "The beauty of these four is that they are all mixed with one thin.

　　"Jinling Chef King" Hu Changling devoted his life to the cause of Nanjing cuisine, and in 1988 he published a 300,000-word monograph, "Jinling Mei Cuisine Classic". This book not only writes about the palm of Nanjing cuisine, folklore, historical research and folk customs, but also makes a detailed introduction and systematic discussion of the essentials of cooking technology, flavor, traditional craftsmanship and other aspects.

　　When it comes to the monographs on Nanjing's food culture, we also have to mention the "Suiyuan Food List" by Yuan Ming, the "Recipe for Suiyuan", the "Yecheng Vegetable Recipe" of the late Qing Dynasty and the early Ming Dynasty, and the "White Gate Recipe" of Zhang Tongzhi, the "foodie" of the Republic of China... All accurately present the color, aroma, origin and so on of Nanjing cuisine.

　　Unique

　　Nanjing cuisine has "seven tastes and seven tastes"

　　There is also fork roasting

　　Nanjing people in a foreign land may remember the flavor of authentic Nanjing cuisine best because of the "bystander Qing". The writer Hong Zhan wrote in the article "Nanjing People's Home": Strictly speaking, Nanjing cuisine is still a little different from the flooded Huaiyang cuisine or Jiangsu and Zhejiang cuisine. It is the essence of the essence, stained with the inextricable gold powder of the Six Dynasties, which is both rich and fragrant.

　　"The flavor of Nanjing cuisine is described by these few words, salty and suitable, and the taste is peaceful." Zhu Baoding said: "Because Nanjing is located at the junction of north and south, it is not as light as Cantonese cuisine, not as rich as Sichuan cuisine, and not as important as Shandong cuisine in the use of salt." Therefore, people in the east, west, south and north can eat it. And Hu Changling's summary of the flavor of Nanjing cuisine is a classic, he proposed the seven tastes of seven tastes - fresh, loose, crisp, tender, crisp, thick, fat seven, sour, sweet, spicy, hemp, salty, fragrant, smelly seven flavors.

　　According to Zhu Baoding, in terms of cooking methods, Nanjing cuisine is good at stewing, stewing and fork roasting. Fork roasting technology was passed down during the Ming Dynasty, and in the Republic of China period, there were special chefs making fork roasted dishes in famous shops such as Deyuan Taihe, Laiyi, Lao Baoxin, Lao Wanquan, Qingliu, Jinlingchun, Liuhuachun and so on. In the early years, Jinling fork roast had "eight forks": fork roast duck, fork grilled fish, fork roast suckling pig, fork roast chicken, fork roast ham, fork roast pheasant, fork roast puff pastry square, fork roast deer breast.

　　Although many delicious dishes have long ceased to exist, the formation of Nanjing cuisine is the result of long-term political, economic and cultural development, and is also caused by the unique geographical environment of Nanjing. It is by no means the product of isolation from society, and has a strong sense of the times. Today, we also revisit "Nanjing cuisine" to dig deep into an important part of Nanjing culture.

Source: Jinling Evening News