It's late autumn, an autumn rain and a cold, and only love and food can withstand the cold.
Speaking of driving away the cold, of course, it is necessary to count the hot soup. The ball soup that has just come out of the pot is still steaming when it is served; it is lightly blown and tasted, and when you drink it, your hands and feet will immediately warm up. Raw pills, also known as water balls. The balls are like jade beads, floating up, the soup color is clear, the taste is fresh, and a raw ball soup can be said to be the soul of Shaanxi soup, which is a dish for the New Year or events in the rural areas of Guanzhong.
Raw ball soup seems simple, it seems to be boiled in the clear soup, but the kung fu is not home, the balls can not float up, it can be said that there is a mystery in a word.
氽, cuān, is a cooking technique that treats some cooking ingredients with effluent and is also a cooking method for making dishes. The main ingredients of the vegetables are mostly small slices, silk, flower knife type or balls, and there are many finished soups. It is a quick-cooked method that keeps food fresh and nutritious.
In ancient times, meatballs were called meat balls. Meat round is a common dish, drinking feast is also indispensable, mainly take the word "circle" means "reunion" and "consummation".
Speaking of raw ball soup, there are several allusions behind it.
According to the first theory, in April of the first year of Qing Yongzheng (1723), Nian Qianyao served as the governor of Sichuan and Shaanxi as the "Inspector of Salt In Hedong", and when he presided over the salt administration of Hedong, he sat in Yuncheng for a while. Nian Qianyao is cruel to human nature, but he is very particular about diet. Because he had set up a banquet at both ends for three days, what mountain treasures and seafood taste, Lin Liver Phoenix Essence had long been tired of eating, so he ordered the chef to change the pattern. Although the group of chefs he brought who were good at "cannon phoenix cooking dragons" racked their brains and made dozens of dishes, they always did not meet his appetite. The head of the chef in charge was forced to visit the famous chefs in various counties in Hedong. After several twists and turns, I finally found out that there was an old man surnamed Yao in Yongji County who was good at making raw ball soup.
So, hurriedly ordered someone to bring it to try. Sure enough, the raw ball soup made by Old Man Yao, the clear and bright soup was floating with balls that were only the size of a thumb, white and tender, and there were a few pieces of green onion leaves and coriander floating in them, which looked green and white, very elegant. Tang Yao was very satisfied with the meal, and when he left Old Man Yao in the mansion, he specially made raw ball soup for him. From time to time, he also used this soup to set up a feast to invite his colleagues to eat together. Within two years, Old Man Yao returned to his hometown due to old age and frailty.
Who knew that he had been gone for less than half a month, and Nian Qianyao's addiction to eat raw ball soup came up. I ordered a chef to make it, but the taste was extremely poor. They invited the old man Yao back again. Nian Qianyao couldn't help but ask him: "Why is the soup of raw balls made by Ru so delicious?" Old Man Yao replied: "Don't hide from the old man, in fact, there are many people in my hometown who will make this soup, usually made of pork and egg white, and the little man also added minced ham to the old man, so it is delicious." ”
According to the second theory, in the twenty-sixth year of Guangxu (1900), the Eight-Power Alliance invaded and occupied Beijing, and Empress Dowager Cixi fled to Xi'an with the Guangxu Emperor and the Minister of Culture and Military Affairs Cangchao. On this day, when passing through Yuncheng, Yu Le of Hedong Daotai set up a banquet to entertain. The banquet was filled with qiong pulp jade liquid and eight treasures and hundred flavors, which can be described as extremely rich.
But Empress Dowager Cixi looked at it with a sullen look. When Yu Daotai saw that the big thing was not good, he did not know where he was disrespectful, so he fell to his knees in fright on the spot and prostrated his head and begged for forgiveness. The eunuch Li Lianying, who was standing nearby, shouted loudly: "When Lafayette was in the palace, he smelled that the raw ball soup here was very delicious. Er waited but did not prepare this soup, and asked Er whether there was still Lafayette in his mind? Yu Daotai listened, relaxed his heart, and secretly pondered: "This is so." Hurriedly played: "Damn the low post, in the old place outside the yamen now, there is the great-grandson of the old man Yao who made this soup for Nian Tangyao, who was the governor of Sichuan and Shaanxi at that time, and the low post will let him make it for Lafayette!" ”
Empress Dowager Cixi turned her anger into joy and waved her hand to make Yu Daotai stand up. After a short while, the master of the fallen yamen led several maids with clear eyebrows, one by one, holding raw ball soup in exquisite porcelain bowls, and respectfully serving them in front of Empress Dowager Cixi. Sure enough, the soup is thick and crisp, the coriander and garlic are floating, and the sesame oil and meat are fragrant, looking very light and elegant.
According to legend, after Empress Dowager Cixi returned to Beijing, she still remembered Yao's ancestral soup of raw pills. Specially commanded Hedong, the great-grandson of old man Yao into the palace, and made raw ball soup for her in the imperial dining room.
Behind each bowl of proud ball soup, there is the sincerity and wisdom of the shop owner. Small pills, great wisdom.
Zhang Gangsheng Pill Soup is already a nearly 30-year-old shop on Ziqiang West Road in Lianhu District, and is open 24 hours a day. Open window with at a glance during the production process. When it came time to eat, it was crowded and full. Every day at noon, you have to wait in line to drink the hot ball soup without discount. Especially in the afternoon and evening, there are many diners, and the diners from 7 to 10 o'clock are the most exuberant!
If you want to sit in a private room, you have to book in advance, and you are basically repeat customers. There are also many diners in the store who are said to have followed all the way from the moment his home opened, and his family's raw ball soup is freshly boiled and eaten, winning the hearts of many foodies.
The process of raw balls is extremely exquisite, from the selection of materials to the production, it is personally controlled by Boss Zhang. Tender tender tenderness of tenderness is served with a small amount of tenderness, which can make the balls more fragrant and smoother. In order to maintain the original taste, all the ground meat is first cut into small grains with a knife and then pounded on the back of the knife. This repeated rotation operation makes the meat more delicate. Next, add a certain amount of egg whites, and then add the quantitative starch. Only cooking wine, salt and ginger are added to the seasoning, but if you want to make the texture of the tendons, you have to work hard to make the water, and you can beat it hundreds of times in one direction to gradually make the meat filling gradually stronger,...... During this period, each time the water is added, the water is whisked until it is completely absorbed, and the purpose of this step is to make the meat filling full of water, and the final balls are more tender.
The bone broth on the side has long been boiled, and the bone broth of Zhang Gangsheng's balls is made of pure elbow bone, pork stick bone and other raw materials. Boiling water first blanched, put cold water on high heat to boil, go to foam, simmer slowly, the soup boiled to 50% of the time into the ginger, boiled for 12 hours bone marrow out of the soup thick milky white can be, thick soup in a large pot tumbling, a bowl of kung fu beautiful soup, can be directly under the belly. It can make the flavor of the ingredients be fully lifted out, penetrate each other, and achieve the harmony of the five flavors. Everywhere I went, it was almost comparable to the secret book of a martial arts master, a soup in hand, delicious I have. The loss of calcium in a person's day is very large, and drinking a bowl of bone soup can first supplement calcium. Especially for small, middle-aged and elderly people, it is nutritionally healthy. Soup plays a pivotal role in cooking, and "the chef's soup, the cavity of singing" illustrates this.
All of the raw ball soup in the shop is freshly made, and several large pots of meatballs are pinched every day. After the customer orders, the meat filling becomes a round ball in the hands of the master. The master makes the meatballs at a speed, so fast that he has to slow down. Years of craftsmanship, pinching and putting, in the blink of an eye, one by one, evenly sized balls jumped into the soup pot. The balls are tumbled up and down in the bone broth, cooked when they are fully floated, and served with some greens, mushrooms, ringing skins, fried tofu... There are seven or eight of them. The side dish of raw ball soup is not cooked. Instead, it is directly blanched in the form of gourd head, stuffed for a while before serving, and then sprinkled with leeks and coriander and left in the soup. The soup color is milky white and does not look greasy, and it is very tempting to soak in the soup one by one.
The freshly beaten balls are very chewy, crisp and elastic, and you can taste the meat grains carefully. Boil until the bright bone broth, the essence is all in the soup, you can smell the aroma from a distance. The bone broth is fragrant with a hint of pepper and spicy, and the taste is very rich. This bowl of ball soup with a large bone soup base, drunk in one bite, is like a long stream of fine water. Ball soup is basically a must order at every table, more people recommend to make a large portion, less people to a small portion, regardless of the size of the soup can be indefinitely continued. Everyone can drink enough, order a few dishes at will, and eat a meal with satisfaction. Eat its own ball soup, the standard is a large flower roll, the ball soup on the table to drink the soup first, and then fish the inside of the vermicelli, ringing skin, mushrooms, fried tofu, green vegetables... Finally, take another bite of spicy flower rolls, tube full!
Raw ball soup: belongs to low-fat food, pure handmade, crisp and tender taste, clear and delicious soup, white and soft ball color, light and refreshing, not greasy, there is a "eclipse three meals do not get tired" saying. A bowl of ball soup is under the belly, the people who eat it have fine sweat oozing from their foreheads, and the cold of autumn has also been dispelled a lot.
A bowl of raw ball soup in addition to busyness has become the living habit of Chang'an diners. Raw ball soup brings a dose of comfort to the cold autumn day and adds to the small beauty of people's ordinary lives.
