During the Dragon Boat Festival, I received two boxes of Gaoyou salted eggs from friends in Jiangsu. In addition to the inner excitement, it also sets up a better reason for being lazy to cook. So he cooked a pot of porridge that night and served it with the salted egg he had just received. With the scent of the cheeks, memories of the past flooded back......
Speaking of the history of salted eggs, it can be said to be long, as early as in the "Qi Min Yaoshu" there are complete records of pickling and eating. Mr. Wang Zengqi once said that the salted eggs in his hometown of Gaoyou are thin and oily, which is unmatched elsewhere. Although the salted eggs in my hometown are not as famous as Gaoyou, they also ran through my entire childhood.
I remember that in the early years, there were many people who raised ducks in the countryside. The so-called "Spring River Plumbing Duck Prophet", after the beginning of spring, as soon as the weather is warm, the ducks that have rested for a winter seem to be in a competition, scrambling to start laying eggs. At that time, the ducks had no artificial feed to eat, and they ate all small fish and snails, and they exercised in the lake all day long, not only the duck meat was extremely tender and fragrant, but the eggs laid through the raw green eggshell could faintly see the crimson egg yolk inside.
The duck eggs are usually put in an old casserole. In addition to selling some of the subsidies for households, some will also be left for pickling eggs before Qingming.
In the spring of March, the peach blossom water passed, and the grandmother put the duck eggs in the pot into the basket, carried them to the well, and carefully scrubbed them one by one. The duck eggs, which were originally sticky to the straw of duck feces, immediately became clear and shiny after some careful rubbing, and the water hibiscus amazed my narrow gaze.
Grandma packed them with bamboo plaques, dried them until they dried, rolled them one by one in high liquor, and then exposed them to the hot sun, and when the eggshells were hot, they were moved to a cool place.
After everything was ready and lunch, my grandmother began to marinate the eggs. It is said that there are many ways to make salted eggs, and my family is wrapped in yellow mud. Because there is no kind of viscous yellow mud in the hometown, the dry mud of the sealed rice wine tank is reused, stirred into yellow mud with rice washing water, salt is added, and then the duck eggs are carefully dipped in the pulp, neatly put into the yellow-black pickled egg urn that has been brushed spotlessly in advance, and placed in the yellow-black pickled egg urn that is dry under the sun, sealed with a film, and placed motionless in a dark and ventilated place, waiting for the delicious time to achieve.
The duck eggs in the urn are slowly and silently maturing little by little. In my impression, the length of time to marinate salted eggs is slightly different each time, sometimes you can taste it in 20 days, if the taste is not enough, and then appropriately extend the marinating period. But if it takes too long, the egg whites will look salty and old.
A salted egg that came out of the ancient books and came to our rice bowl is simple to say: only duck eggs and salt are very common, but just need to be together for a while, and they can actually tempt the taste buds to the extreme.
As a special pickled food, salted eggs are not meat and vegetarian, compared with ordinary pickles, a little more oil and water, and less meat than ordinary salted meat and salted fish, the most special thing is that it is compatible with egg yolk and egg white.
The egg yolk, which has a grit texture like crab roe, is definitely a golden feeling of happiness on the table. Dig a small piece and put it in your mouth, and during the chewing process, the dense and greasy senses run down the mouth to the throat, and the numb, crispy, and fragrant taste will not fade for a long time. In addition to the ecstasy of egg yolk, the egg white can not live up to it. The entrance is smooth and creamy, salty and light, just with a bowl of thick and thin white porridge, in this fresh and delicate salt, naturally taste the plain true taste of ordinary days.
Nowadays, very few people pickle salted eggs at home. As for the plastic salted eggs sold on the supermarket shelves, they are snow-white and clean, and they have long since lost their local colors covered with yellow mud and grass ash.
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Author: Wang Huili
Editor: Zhang Li
Editor-in-charge: Liao and Wei
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