The purpose of [Zhi Food] is to push the accurate, true and pure diet content to you who really like to eat.
I'm naked eater, may you like it.
Naked food said
About thirty years ago, a group of Japanese people came to China in a group to visit the famous restaurants in Beijing, Shanghai, Guangdong and Sichuan. Interestingly, the Japanese at that time may not have known about the existence of Sichuan cuisine, and before they were ready to board the plane, they were pulled by the Sichuan people to allow this famous dish to be included in it.
In a documentary about Sichuan cuisine, I learned about this set of books. Immediately searched and found the Japanese version, but did not understand Japanese, had to put it down.
One day, I found a Japanese translator to see if I could translate it. This translator's friend was also really responsible, and even ran to say: "This set of books has a Taiwanese version." ”
I really appreciate it at the moment. After all, the cost or time required to translate the book was prohibitive. After several twists and turns, the Chinese version finally arrived, although the shell was unsightly compared to the Japanese version, but it was also a treasure.
Fangshan Restaurant (Part 1)
Imitation restaurant
【Knowledge and Food - Inscription】
When it comes to the court cuisine of old Beijing, it is natural to think of the imitation restaurant in Beihai Park. It is said that this restaurant is not ordinary! What is the ability of the Fangshan Restaurant to be listed as one of the three major attractions in Beijing alongside the Badaling Great Wall and the Palace Museum?
"Zhi Food" launched the "Collection of Chinese Famous Dishes" special topic, with the theme of famous shops and famous dishes. Use today's language and reading habits to re-compile this set of masterpieces from thirty years ago! Don't forget your original intention, in order to be able to review the famous chinese restaurants, local flavors, food culture, cooking art...
Today we will grill the abalone wings of this restaurant, the taste of mountains and treasures of the sea; take a look at the extravagance and luxury of the royal banquet. The old driver of the Qing Palace Royal Kitchen has already departed, come and come, hurry up and buy a ticket!
Court Recipes (Recipes of the Qianlong Emperor of the Qing Dynasty)
【The True Legend of the Old Imperial Chef】
Diners who have eaten the famous dishes of the imitation restaurant cannot avoid wondering, is this really the true legend of the old imperial chef of the Qing Palace?
The imperial descendants of the Qing Dynasty patted their chests and said:
This is a real court flavor. (I'll just say it this time~)
Minced pork cakes, fried fish fillets, braised chicken breasts, small nests, pea yellow, kidney bean rolls... The name of this dish is simply not too authentic, and the taste is naturally needless to say.
After the Republic of China, the court flavor of Beijing first set a small goal, such as preserving the royal tradition in terms of color and fragrance.
Today's dishes are no less than in the past. Because cooking techniques are based on the accumulation of experience and strive for excellence with the development of the times.
Taking the platter of the fangshan restaurant as an example, where did this kind of cold dish with rich color and shape appear in the former court, which can be called handicrafts?
In the past, white chopped chicken was only white chopped chicken, and mixed jellyfish only had stings or stings, just the cooked ingredients were plated separately. Smoked fish, small belly, sausage, pine blossom eggs, sauce meat are the same, even small nests, roasted wheat, buns, ham roast cake plate is no more than that.
At that time, the court cuisine did not have a flower knife carving, and it was impossible to carve the ingredients into crafts. For example, white radish is carved into various patterns, and then decorated with brightly colored ornaments or ingredients.
The carved or decorated dishes, like a girl with exquisite makeup, are visual enjoyment and a sexual encounter for the taste buds. The dishes carved with flower knives, like a clear stream in the court cuisine, swept the table of the glutton, and this flying posture cooled the word imitation kitchen!
Fangshan imitates the appearance of the Qing Dynasty court meal
【Fangshan Restaurant】
All the unruly rubbing royals are hooligans.
In Beijing a long time ago, many restaurants advertised that they were court cooks. But the gourmets knew that at that time, only the fangshan restaurant was really closely related to the old dynasty's imperial dining room.
On the north side of the roundabout of Beihai Park, there is a semicircular cloister with a back mountain facing the lake. In its center, there are buildings such as Fangshan Restaurant and Yilan Hall and Dao Ning Zhai. Both of these palace-like buildings were built in the sixteenth year of Qianlong (1752 AD) and became the place where Empress Dowager Cixi (original book note: Xianfeng Emperor Concubine, the honorific title of Empress Xi) took a stroll.
The history of fangshan restaurants can be traced back to the end of the Qing Dynasty, when the Qing court was extremely extravagant. It turns out that in addition to working meals, life is not only in front of you, but also... Different restaurants and meals.
The empress dowager had a shou dining room, the emperor had a royal dining room, and the concubines had a master's kitchen. In addition, there is also the imperial tea room for the emperor's banquet.
Every time the emperor was lucky (naked food note: xingxing refers to the behavior of the monarch personally going out to inspect a certain place, often like a huge parade), arriving at the local area needs to eat, but also has to accompany the picnic imperial dining room. Under the imperial dining hall, there are meat bureaus for cooking meat dishes, vegetarian dishes for cooking vegetarian dishes, dim sum bureaus for formal meals, meal bureaus for banquets, and even boiled pork, roasted duck, kimchi and other baggage bureaus... The number of cooks in the court can be as many as 300 or more.
The days of eating like flowers are finally over.
In 1911, the Xinhai Revolution was successful and the Qing Dynasty rule was declared over, but the last emperor Puyi, under the protection of the Preferential Treatment Regulations of the Qing Dynasty, was still luxurious, and the imperial dining room still existed.
Coming out of the mix always has to pay back. It was not until the thirtieth year of the Republic of China, when Puyi was expelled from the palace, that the imperial dining room was finally dissolved, and the imperial kitchen was also scattered among the people.
In the fourteenth year of the Republic of China, Beihai Park opened, zhao Renqi, who was originally the qing dynasty court to manage the food warehouse, hired the chefs Sun Shaoran, Wang Yushan, Zhao Yongshou, Niu Wenqian, Wen Shitian, Niu Wenqian, and Wen Shitian, who originally worked in the imperial dining hall, to open a restaurant in Beihai Park, named FangshanZhai; insisting on the dishes and snacks served imitated the techniques of the imperial dining room, so that the famous dishes of the palace flavor began to circulate folk and were well received.
Court cuisine pays special attention to the harmony of color, aroma, taste and shape, and even the name of the dish is vivid and rich in meaning.
【Four large bowl dishes】
Bird's Nest Qingzi Mouth Mushroom Fat Chicken Bird's Nest Greeting Word Three Fresh Ducks
Bird's Nest New Word Assorted Chicken Silk Bird's Nest New Year Character Pot Roast duck
Ordinary large bowl dishes are composed of four dishes, so they are called big bowl dishes and four products. Each dish is decorated with words made of bird's nest as a material, representing auspicious congratulations.
For example, celebrating the New Year, longevity without borders, Toad Palace Folding Gui, Furu Donghai, etc., and such as bird's nest Qingzikou mushroom fat chicken, bird's nest Hezi three fresh ducks, bird's nest new word assorted chicken shreds, bird's nest New Word Pot roast duck text are all related to celebrating the New Year.
These four dishes of the Fangshan Restaurant are imitated from the traditional cooking method of the Qing Palace Imperial Dining Room.
【Bird's Nest Qingzikou Mushroom Fat Chicken】
Chicken Bird's Nest Mushroom Chicken Breast Pork Egg Water Chestnut Bean Sprout Shaoxing Wine Salt Onion Ginger Corn Flour Clear Soup
Bird's Nest Qingzi mouth mushroom fat chicken
After removing the chicken's internal organs and bones, set aside. Cut the mushrooms and water chestnuts into cubes and mix well with the pork minced pork. Mix wine, salt, minced green onion, minced ginger and corn flour into a paste and stuff into the belly of the chicken. Serve in a bowl. Add the wine, salt, mushrooms and clear soup and steam in the steamer basket.
The chicken breast is made into a pureed meat, mixed with the egg, and then added to the stem and leaf juice and seasoning of the bean sprouts to make a green minced meat and spread on a small plate. Use the bird's nest that is soaked and cleaned, place the word "Qing" on it, steam it in the basket, and put it on the chicken's body.
【Bird's Nest Greeting Word Three Fresh Ducks】
Stuffed duck bird's nest chicken breast eggs ham shiitake mushrooms magnolia slices water chestnut bean sprouts minced pork Shaoxing wine salt corn flour onion ginger clear soup chicken fat
Bird's nest greeting word three fresh ducks
The cramming duck is cut from the shoulder to remove the internal organs and bones. Cut some shiitake mushrooms, magnolia slices, ham (nude food note: Jinhua ham), water chestnut, etc. into cubes. Mix the minced pork with the diced side dishes, add wine, salt, minced green onion, minced ginger and corn flour to make a paste, stuff it into the belly of the stuffed duck, steam it and put it on a large plate. After cooking the remaining shiitake mushrooms, magnolia slices, ham slices, and clear soup, arrange them around the stuffed ducks.
Bring the broth to a boil in a pot, season with wine and salt, and coat with corn flour. Drizzle the sauce into a plate filled with ducks and drizzle with a little chanterelle for added luminosity. The "He" character made of bird's nest is decorated according to the previous method.
【Bird's nest new word assorted chicken shreds】
Chicken Bird's Nest Shiitake mushrooms Magnolia slices Ham Eggs Bean sprouts Shaoxing wine Salt Corn flour Chicken fat clear soup
Bird's nest new word assorted chicken shreds
Cut the chicken, shiitake mushrooms, magnolia slices, and ham into 5 cm long strips, and cut the baked egg skin into strips. Combine the shredded ingredients with the bean sprouts and steam them in a steamer basket.
In another pot, add the broth to a boil, season with wine, salt and corn flour, drizzle over the shredded chicken and drizzle with chicken fat. Put on the bird's nest to make the "new" word.
【Bird's nest New Year character pot roasted duck】
Stuffed duck bird's nest chicken breast egg bean sprouts cucumber carrot golden cake sausage Shaoxing wine salt shallot cardamom white sugar chicken soup rock sugar sand kernel ginger Shan Nai bai zhi cloves tangerine peel cinnamon star anise cinnamon peanut oil
Bird's nest New Year character pot roast duck
After the stuffed ducks are removed from the internal organs, together with a gauze bag wrapped with nine spices, placed in a pot Chinese slowly cooked over low heat. After the duck is cooked until it is six minutes old, add chicken broth, wine, salt and spices to continue cooking.
Sauté the rock sugar and white sugar in oil to make the sugar color and put it in a pan of filler duck to color. Remove and cut into chunks, sauté them in oil, and then cut into chunks. Place the duck pieces on top of the bottom of the sausages, golden cakes, cucumbers, carrots and steamed eggs that have been sliced and plated, on which the bird's nest "Nian" is placed.
The emperor's luxurious life is known to the world, and he spends hundreds of thousands of taels of money in an instant, without sparing.
Especially in terms of meals, it is even more enjoyable to enjoy the taste of the mountains and the sea. The emperor's meal is the so-called meal. Eat, focus on luxury.
According to the literature, according to the custom, two tables of daily dishes were prepared for the emperor every day, three tables of various dim sum, rice, porridge, and a small table of kimchi, and then a hot pot table was added in winter.
Weddings, birthdays and other celebrations are even more luxurious, and there are dozens or even hundreds of dishes on the two tables, of course, these are decorative.
The chef of the imperial dining room once described the emperor's meal as follows: eating two eyes and looking at three, the emperor only clips the dishes in front of him, and the dishes that are farther away are only for viewing, and the farther ones are only glanced at.
The dish closest to the emperor's side is called Huai Bowl Dish, the large bowl dish is the heaviest artistic decorative effect, sometimes the emperor is interested in coming, but also to try the big bowl dish, so you can't cut corners at all (Little Second Son, I want to try that, the following of the year... ）。
【Goldfish duck palm】
Duck palm Fish meat Clear soup Egg white pea vegetable rape rape Corn flour Cooked lard Chicken fat Shaoxing wine Salt bean sprouts
Goldfish duck palm
Chinese cuisine has always attached importance to color, aroma, taste and shape, that is, to satisfy the sense of smell, taste and visual enjoyment.
Beautiful dishes have the effect of pleasing the eye and increasing appetite, so there is a requirement to imitate the shape of flowers, fruits, fish, and meat to improve beauty.
Not to mention the dishes in the imperial dining room of the Qing Dynasty, the goldfish duck paw steamed with pork mushrooms and duck paws is one of them.
In addition to inheriting the tradition, the chef of The Fangshan Restaurant also uses fish instead of pork, so the taste is better, noble and indifferent, and the color and shape are beautiful, which is really the traditional famous dish of the Fangshan Restaurant.
In order, the flavored fish is first made into a small oval shape and filled with boneless duck paws. The open duck paw becomes the goldfish tail, the pea (or cherry) becomes the goldfish eye, and the hair vegetables and rapeseed are arranged into fins and scales, steamed and set aside. The bean sprouts are boiled in the broth and spread on a plate, then add the steamed goldfish and duck paws and pour the originally prepared hooks.
【Chicken breast】
Chicken breast Eggs Fresh peas Corn flour Shaoxing wine Salt Pure chicken soup Cooked lard Chicken fat
Braised chicken breasts
This dish was conceived by the Imperial Dining Room of the Qing Palace, and it is an extremely delicate and delicate typical court dish. Although the main ingredient of the chicken breast is difficult to cook, it is tender and delicious, especially suitable for the elderly.
Prepare a piece of chicken breast, cut off the white tendons and chicken skin. Put the two chicken loins on a cutting board, add a little water, and chop them into a mud with the back of the knife; you can use a double knife to open the bow left and right. Water is added so that the chicken does not stick to the knife, and the water can be absorbed by the chicken to form a soft chicken mushroom. The whole time takes about thirty minutes.
The whole action is just repeated.
Gently scrape off the chicken mushroom on the belly of the knife, pick out the chicken tissue residue on the cutting board, and carefully chop the chicken mushroom on the cutting board into a puree again...
Minced chicken puree, kneaded by hand into chicken balls. Mix with white brine with fresh peas and serve in a bowl. The green fresh peas reflect the beautiful white, tender taste and beautiful colors, which make people salivate.
【Dragon's Whiskers】
Camel palm dragon whisker vegetables Hen chicken Pork ham Magnolia slices Shiitake mushrooms Clear soup Shaoxing wine corn flour soy sauce Onion Ginger Salt Chicken fat Pepper Peanut oil
Dragon's whiskers
The camel, known as the ship of the desert, can walk hundreds of kilometers with weight and cut through the distant desert with four large hooves. The hooves of camels, called camel paws, are larger than the hooves of other animals and are considered one of the Eight Treasures.
The focus of this dish is to wash the sand from the camel's paws and treat the fur clean.
Dip the camel's paw several times in boiling boiling water, brush it with a brush, and then wash off the dirt with clean water before entering the pot. Simmer slowly over a long period of time, such as broth, hen meat, pork, ham, green onion, ginger, etc., until the meat of the camel palm can peel off the bones. Remove the bones and cut the camel meat into a thickness of 1 cm.
Sauté the shallots and ginger in peanut oil until fragrant, add the camel palm meat and sauté until the sides of the meat turn golden brown. Add wine, soy sauce and pepper to a pan and cook over low heat.
After cooking, the camel palm meat and magnolia slices are placed in a bowl together with the mushrooms. Pour in the broth, sake and salt, steam in a steamer basket, cook and serve.
The de-glutened steamed dragon's whiskers are garnished around the camel palm meat, poured with the sauce made from the soup left by the steamed camel palm meat, and drizzled with chicken fat. Garnish with cucumber flakes to add aesthetics.
Tender camel palm meat and crisp dragon's whiskers are both individual ingredients that combine to form this unique dish.
【Sea Red Shark Fin】
Water hair shark fin crab yellow carrot pure chicken and duck soup Shaoxing wine corn flour salt onion ginger cooked lard
Sea red shark fin soup
The Qing Palace also regarded shark fin soup as a high-grade food, and the imperial dining room of the Qing Dynasty court already had a variety of shark fin practices, such as yellow braised shark fin, clear soup shark fin, assorted shark fin, osmanthus shark fin, chicken shredded simmered shark fin, meat braised shark fin... The sea red shark fin method introduced here is imitated from the Qing Palace.
Wash the shark fin several times, then wash it with cold water and put it in a bowl, add wine, salt, green onion and ginger, pour chicken and duck soup, put it in a steamer basket, steam it until it is completely tender, and then remove the shark fin.
Add water to another pot, add chicken and duck broth, salt, wine, steamed shark fin and cook over low heat. After cooking, discard the soup, add new chicken and duck soup, salt and wine, and cook over low heat, so that twice, the shark fin soup with excellent flavor and tenderness is served on the plate.
Then, to add flavor to the cooked shark fin, it needs to be drizzled with a special sauce.
First, the carrot shreds are fried in low-temperature cooked lard, and when the oil is a little red, add crab yellow, wine, salt, green onion, ginger, chicken broth and cook, and finally cook.
It was made into this famous dish with great autumn flavor
【Phoenix Nest】
Hen Clear Soup Pigeon Egg Shiitake Mushrooms Magnolia Slices Fish Belly Ham Minced Rapeseed Shaoxing Wine Onion Ginger Chicken Fat Salt Soy Sauce Corn Flour
Phoenix Nest
In Chinese recipes, chicken has always been regarded as a phoenix. This phoenix nest is made of hens as the main ingredient, surrounded by pigeon eggs, which looks like hens hatching eggs.
The hen is cut open, the internal organs are removed and washed, the form is adjusted, the water is changed several times, and the casserole is moved. Add wine, salt, shallots, ginger, cover and cook, then steam in a steamer basket with the soup until tender.
Shiitake mushrooms, magnolia slices, ham, water hair fish belly shredded, boiling water quickly, turn to low heat and simmer slowly. The stewed ingredients are moved onto a large plate, sprinkled with minced rape, garnished with cooked and shelled pigeon eggs, and the steamed hens are placed on a large plate.
Finally, after boiling the broth, wine, salt and soy sauce, add the chicken fat and drizzle on the hen.
【Luohan prawn】
Shrimp Fish puree eggs minced ham rape clear soup Shaoxing wine corn flour white sugar cooked lard ginger salt
Luohan prawns
The Arhat is a legendary enlightened monk who interrupts desire and has no worries, and often laughs and has a blessed face. The Arhat prawn is like an unsophisticated Arhat, symbolizing auspiciousness and joy.
The shrimp is treated in detail and made into a symbol of luohan's belly. Eighteen arhat shrimp were often made in the court, symbolizing that the eighteen arhats worked together to serve the Son of Heaven. Today, the number is not limited, generally depending on the number of diners.
This dish can be described as a double enjoyment of taste and vision, the shrimp with red heads, like an arhat dressed in red Gaza; the steamed shrimp slightly white, round and curved, like a very large belly of the arhat, making people laugh.
Divide the shrimp in two from the junction of the head and chest to the body, remove the sandbag near the mouth of the head and chest, fry it with cooked lard, add clear soup, sugar, salt, wine, ginger shreds, cook for about ten minutes, plate, pour red soup.
After the body part of the tail is shelled and cut into cramps, it is chopped into shrimp puree with a kitchen knife, then coated with egg white mixed with salt and wine, decorated with shredded ham and rapeseed, and steamed in a cage. Finally, mix the broth, wine, salt and corn flour to make a sauce and pour it on the shrimp.
【Toad abalone】
Canned abalone Fish puree egg puree Shiitake mushrooms Magnolia slices Ham Fish belly Fresh peas Hair vegetable clear soup Shaoxing wine Chicken fat Corn oil Cooked lard Salt
Toad abalone
Abalone wrapped in fish rice, peas for eyes, hair vegetables for decoration... Under the clever movements of the chef, watching the toad appear.
The toad on the plate bulged its belly, as if one could hear it croaking. The famous dish of the fangshan restaurant, toad abalone, is ingeniously crafted, aromatic and delicious, and the modeling and carving techniques are also creative.
Put a knife from the side of the abalone, stir-fry left and right, imitate the feet of the toad, stuff the fish puree in the cut gap, make eyes with fresh peas, decorate with hair vegetables; the prepared toad is basketed and steamed for later.
Sliced shiitake mushrooms, magnolia slices, ham, fish maw, blanched and spread on a large plate, put the steamed abalone, and then use clear soup, wine, salt, corn flour to outline the soup, wine, salt, corn flour, drizzle with chicken fat.
The picture is like a toad chirping on a lotus pond, and the lotus flower is delicately carved from carrots.
【Lotus seed soup】
Fresh lotus seeds, rock sugar, white sugar, sugar, osmanthus flowers, too white powder, honey cherries
Lotus seed soup
Lotus seed soup has both a sweet fragrance like honey, and also has the effect of calming the spirit and helping sleep and preventing diarrhea. The Shennong Materia Medica says that lotus seeds nourish the gods and gain strength. The "Compendium of Materia Medica" records that lotus seeds intersect the heart and kidneys, thick intestines and stomach, solidify the spirit, strengthen the muscles and bones, and repair the weakness.
Lotus seed soup is served almost every day at the queen's table.
Dried and fresh lotus seeds are available, preferably fresh. The lotus seed soup of the imitation restaurant, picked from the North Sea Lake in summer and autumn, is tender and sweet, with excellent flavor; after sprinkling with cherries, the color is clear and full of small fresh visual sense.
From the freshly picked lotus canopy, remove the lotus seeds and put them in hot water with a little salt and cook them slightly to remove the shell. Then put it in a casserole dish, add water, rock sugar, sugar, sugar osmanthus and taibai powder, cook, put in a bowl, sprinkle a few cherries.
Eat it hot and sweet, cool and frozen in the heat, and the flavor is even better.
【Oolong Spit Pearl】
Sea cucumber pigeon egg clear soup peanut oil Shaoxing wine soy sauce onion salt corn flour
Oolong spit beads
Oolong Tuzhu is a famous dish of Fangshan Restaurant, sea cucumber symbolizes the dragon, fried to the golden yellow pigeon egg as a bead, just like the form of dragon spit beads.
The sea cucumbers made by this traditional court cooking method are tender and delicious, and the aftertaste is endless.
Cut the soaked sea cucumber, remove the intestines, cut off the sharp parts at both ends, and then boil in white water and set aside. After the pigeon protein is boiled and hulled, it is fried until golden brown.
Sauté the chopped chives in peanut oil in a strong heat and set aside in shallot oil. Sauté the sea cucumber, add wine, soy sauce, salt and clear soup, and cook over low heat. Finally, add the fried pigeon eggs, mix well, pick the sauce and drip the shallot oil.
【Clear soup snow ear】
White ear clear soup Shaoxing wine salt
Clear soup snow ear
White fungus is often made into soup in the palace and drunk.
Sweet white fungus soup with rock sugar, water stewed, generally drunk in the morning, has the function of strengthening the lungs; salted white fungus soup is drunk after eating bird's nest, it is said that this can remove the fine hairs of bird's nest that may remain in the stomach, clear soup snow ear is salted white fungus soup (who says, is there a scientific basis for this?). ）。
Soak the white fungus, use a clip to remove the impurities from the root, wash it and boil until it is tender and set aside. Bring to a boil with sake and salt and add the boiled white fungus.
To be continued...
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Whether it is sweets such as lotus seed soup and clear soup snow ear, or court dim sum such as pea yellow, kidney bean roll, small nest head, mille-feuille cake, etc., all of them are exquisite and exquisite, fresh and delicious, and amazing. Under the constant contemplation of the old imperial chef, the cooking technology combines new ingredients and tries them every day to form a unique court flavor. Just like the minced meat cake of the fangshan restaurant, when stir-frying minced meat, minced bamboo shoots and minced watercress are added, and the taste is more delicious and delicious than before.
The cooking of the fangshan court is extremely exquisite, the color is bright like a girl in a colorful dress, the beautiful form is like a seductive song of The Dancing Posture of Yuanyuan Tingting, and the flavor is fresh as a young girl with pear blossoms showing not being very shy... For example, phoenix nests, goldfish duck palms, Luohan prawns, and toad abalone are all lifelike and dishes as their names suggest.